CharmyPoo
Ideal_Rock
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The Harry Winston Micropave halo ring is a very popular ring that has been made many times. The ring has a cushion diamond which is a slightly rounded square/rectangular diamond. A cushion diamond has a lot more variation than a diamond which makes it necessary for a bit more education. The ring has also been made with a round diamond many times before. This particular guide is written for consumers who are interested in purchasing a cushion diamond and/or making a halo setting.
About This Guide
This guide / testimonial was created to share my perspectives and experiences in purchasing cushion diamonds and making a "Harry Winston" inspired ring. As a consumer, my goal is to help other consumers by sharing my personal experiences and addressing the common questions that are asked on Pricescope. This document was originally written for my friend and thus, include my perspectives / experiences with vendors. The photos and videos included are strictly for reference and while I may leverage vendor videos they are used only for illustrative purposes. For "professional" and unbiased education, I recommend reading the articles written by the pros accessed through the Articles tab on Pricescope. I encourage the PS consumer community to add their perspectives and experiences to this thread.
Step 1: Choose the Cushion Cut Type
Cushions are primarily classified as Cushion Brilliants and Cushion Modified Brilliants. There are further sub-classifications of cushions within these two classifications. The real Harry Winston ring comes in all forms of these cushions – the pictures below illustrate the diamonds through real Harry Winston rings owned by members of Pricescope.com.
1. Cushion Modified Brilliants
These are the more common cushions and account for approximately 80-90% of the cushion diamonds in the market. They are often negatively referred to as “crushed ice” due to their small flashes and disorganized patterns. These diamonds are cheaper as they are cut for weight retention (higher carat weight for more money) versus optimizing light performance. Regardless of what some vendors say about these diamonds, I have found them to be less attractive and appealing to the eye. On the flip side, they are generally lower in price as well and there are some facet patterns that I do like.
Here are some sample photos of typical Cushion Modified Brilliants.
These are some of the Cushion Modified Brilliant plots I like best - I would stick to these ones.
Cushions are sometimes misclassified as Cushion Modified Brilliants by GIA so you may see certificates that call them by the name but are not. There are many new advances in different facet types in this category that actually look nice. Most of the diamonds in this category are what I consider modern cushions.
Here is a video that will tell you more about Cushion Modified Brilliants:
(go to 9:50)
(Note – the well cut cushion modified brilliants are rare and even at that not so hot in real life)
2. Cushion Brilliants
There are a wide range of cushion brilliants that can be broadly classified as modern cushions or antique cushions. The modern cushions have smaller flashes of light and the antique/chunky cushions have bigger flashes of light. People like both types of cushion brilliants but the trend has been towards antique/chunky cushions here on Pricescope.
Modern Cushions Brilliants
a. 4 Main Cushions are the most popular type of modern cushion brilliants. They are categorized by an X pattern on the diamond as shown by extremely well cut 4 Main Cushion pictures below. The diamond on the far right is a branded cut “X-Factor” by engagementringsdirect.com.
b. 8 Main Cushions are extremely rare these days and difficult to find. They are like a round diamond but in a rounded cushion shape – I believe they have the most sparkle and most pleasing look since you can’t see the X. They are rare because rough diamonds that are suited for this cut are often cut into round diamonds that make them more money. I haven’t seen an 8 Main Diamond in the past few years. This is also the closest pattern of the Tiffany Novo diamond. This is the type of modern cushion I have in my Harry Winston halo ring.
c. Square Hearts and Arrows are very similar to the 8 main modern cushions mentioned above. The difference is that they have a much harder square outline and perfect optics. They are very pricey and look less feminine. When set, people say it looks like a round diamond. There are very few vendors that carry Square Hearts and Arrows. Some may not consider Square H&A as cushion shaped diamonds.
d. Other Modern Cushions are plentiful in the marketplace and have a range of looks. They are usually branded and come with a price premium. The examples below are of the “Cushette” diamond and a BGD branded cushion (discontinued now?).
Antique Cushions Brilliants
Antique cushions are known for their bigger facets and flashes. Some of them have an obvious cross (known as “Maltese Cross”) and others have a flower pattern. Antique cushions can be newly cut or true antiques also known as “Old Mine Cut”. The antique cushions have a plot like the one below.
a. Newly Cut Antique Cushions or “Generic Cushions” are harder to find than the modern cushions. Some can be very well cut and others less perfect.
b. Branded Newly Cut Antique Cushions are more expensive than the generic antique cushions. There are two vendors that have developed antique cut cushions cut for light performance and to receive the highest cut ratings from AGS. Good Old Gold was the first and developed the very popular “August Vintage Cushion” but it also comes with a price premium due to all the research involved and the amount of rough required to cut to these specifications. Victor Canera has recently developed his own line and has a limited selection as of Dec 2012. The branded newly cut antique cushions are a good option when you are looking for a really well cut diamond and don’t want to invest the time in waiting and looking at diamonds. They are guaranteed to all look pretty much the same.
c. True Antique Cushion (Old Mine Cut - OMCs) are old diamonds cut around 1830s to the turn of the century. These diamonds have a lot of personality as each and every one looks different. These are generally cheaper than the newly cut diamonds but also harder to find especially in large sizes and high colors. OMCs in the larger size range and higher colors are often cut into modern diamonds. There are certain antique dealers and eBay that serve as great source for antique cushions.
New Innovations
There are also new cut innovations that we find on the market now and then. I will share one such innovation - it is the diamond that my friend (the one I wrote the guide for) ended up purchasing. The diamond was purchased from ERD and the GIA plot shows two fat mains and six skinny ones. The end effect is a diamond that has both big facets and sparkles. It is a neat and unique diamond of what I call a half modern / half antique. It is the first one I have ever seen with this plot.
Ideal Cushion Specifications
You will hear over and over again that there are no ideal cushion specifications and each one is very unique. While it may be true, I have found that certain parameters do work better than others. An ASET will also aid in your cut analysis.
Depth: 63% to 67% - Anything lower is what I call a "pancake" cushion and anything higher will face up smaller than required
Table: 46% to 59% - Anything higher is what I call a "helipad" cushion
Additional Cushion Cut Diamond Information
Reading: http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/cushion-cut-diamond
Learning Video:
Comparison Video:
(Note – this does not include my favorite modern cushion brilliant cut – “8 main modern cushions”)
Cushions: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cushion-cuts-a-collection.135031/
GIA and AGS Naming Conventions of Cushions: http://www.pricescope.com/journal/new_gia_and_agsl_naming_conventions_cushion_cut_diamonds
ASET as an Evaluation Tool: https://www.pricescope.com/articles/aset-diamond-evaluation-tool
Step 2: Set Your Diamond Parameters
Cost – Obviously, cost drives all of the parameters depending on what is most important to you / her / him.
Cut – Determines how well a diamond is cut. A well cut diamond is important but perfection like the branded cuts are sometimes not required and need to balanced with price.
Color – Grades start from D. I would say you can go as low as G/H without noticing any yellow. The true antique diamonds often look whiter than they are.
Clarity – Grades start from IF. I would say that as long as you can’t see any visible inclusions (known as “eye clean”) you will be fine. Go with VS1 to SI1 to be safe.
Carat – Refers to the weight of the diamond. The actual face-up size of the diamond is driven by the dimensions and cut of the diamond. Ultimately, what matters is the size the diamond faces up to the viewer but a well cut diamond will balance the size.
Size – Main thing is to determine the length to width ratio. Do you want a square or rectangular? 1.04 and below are considered square.
Step 3: Select Your Setting
This is easier if you have already decided on the setting (ie. Harry Winston halo design as a basis for this guide). There are various price points for a Harry Winston looking halo depending on how it is manufactured – ready made or custom made. When custom made, there is an expensive method of completely hand made and a cheaper method to have it CAD/CAST made. A Harry Winston halo setting can range from $2000 to $5000. CAD/CAST on the lower end and Hand Made / Hand Forged on the higher end. Ready made will range greatly depending on the brand.
Different types of halos: http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/engagement-rings/halo-rings
More designs: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/post-your-cushion-halos-here.88177/
1. Ready Made Setting
Ready made settings come in a range of price points from really expensive to really cheap. They are all driven by the quality of the setting and the brand. It all depends how picky you are on the setting.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/gabriel-co-halo-setting.180367/ (round diamond)
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/gabriel-co-round-vintage-halo-engagement-ring.180861/ (round diamond)
http://idjewelryonline.com/index.php?cPath=42_132
http://www.whiteflash.com/engagemen...i-bella-vita-diamond-engagement-ring-2043.htm
http://www.whiteflash.com/engagemen...ead-set-halo-diamond-engagement-ring-1843.htm
http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/style/ER8267W44JJ
2. Custom Made – CAD/CAST
This can be the cheaper method if you want to have a ring custom made. With that said, I have seen really expensive quotes for CAD/CAST and some very low quotes. The short of this method is that a CAD is created and a digital image is shared with you that you can see and approve first. A wax model is created from the CAD and then molded into the ring. The settings will be made to fit your diamond and design changes can be made.
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...tings-w-cad-rendering-for-cushion-cut.171259/
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...-know-about-cushion-halos-please-help.181481/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/erd-omb-cushion-halo-masterpiece.178601/
http://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/diamond-settings/amphora-diamond-engagement-ring-1039.htm
http://www.whiteflash.com/engagemen...nievere-pave-diamond-engagement-ring-2099.htm
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...-antique-cushion-halo-engagement-ring.178840/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-fis-erd-halo-omb-cushion.162432/
http://www.pricescope.com/gallery/round-brilliant/drg
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cad-help-please.169580/
3. Custom Made – Hand Made / Hand Forged
This is generally the most expensive method to have the ring custom made. With that said, you can find low cost options which usually translate back to the quality of the setting. I would only recommend a few vendors that is worth the price and can deal well with people remotely. The artists I recommend do a really refined job and you can see less metal than options 2 above. I usually use this method for my jewelry but for many people … they can’t tell the difference.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/perry-chen-at-lm-steven-kirsch-cushion-halo.169586/
http://www.pricescope.com/blog/jewel-week-4-carat-cushion-unique-halo-setting
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/leon-mege-antique-cushion.140739/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/leon-mege-antique-cushion.140739/
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...y-victor-canera-cushion-w-emilia-halo.181156/
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...rom-erd-halo-setting-by-steven-kirsch.162955/
http://www.pricescope.com/blog/jewel-week-harry-winston-inspired-ring
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...making-maytal-hannah-halo-erd-cushion.147719/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/victor-canera-does-it-again-cushion-halo.172877/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/im-engaged-pics-of-my-leon-cushion-halo.154968/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/victor-canera-does-it-again-cushion-halo.172877/
http://www.pricescope.com/forum/sho...-my-3-62ct-padparadscha-sapphire-t174526.html
Step 4: Select Your Vendors
You can select to buy both the diamond and setting from the same vendor but most diamond sellers are very willing to send the diamond out to someone else to make the setting (exception is that Victor Canera will not make rings for GOG's AVC and GOG will not send AVCs to Victor Canera). You can also find a ready made setting and have someone put the diamond in it.
1. Diamond and Setting Vendors
These vendors are able to sell the stone and also make or sell the setting. It is essentially a one stop shop but a lot of people still go to one vendor for the diamond and get the setting done by another.
Engagement Rings Direct (Mark or Chris) – http://www.engagementringsdirect.com [Downtown NYC]
My husband bought my first diamond from Mark and many of my friends have since bought from him (and loved the experience). Mark is known for his good prices along with the balance on looks/prices. He has the branded X-Factor modern cushions and hand selected antique looking cushions. They also do both CAD/CAST and Hand Made settings. I find that their CAD/CAST work is better than most of the other vendors in terms of the metal work and pave. You can search ERD for examples. Mark is great at working within your budget.
Art of Platinum (Leon and Perry) - https://www.artofplatinum.com/vault [Downtown NYC]
Leon is the master of platinum pave settings – his work is simply amazing to me. I am very happy with the engagement ring he made for me. Leon is pricey and some find him difficult to work with - I have no issues with him. A few years ago, he also started selling diamonds through Perry. They have good prices on cushions and even rounds. From what I see, the diamonds and prices are comparable to ERD/Mark although I have also heard they were higher.
Good Old Gold (Jon) – http://www.goodoldgold.com [Long Island, NYC]
Jon spent time and money designing the “August Vintage Cushion” and knows the technical aspects of diamonds. He makes tons of videos educating people on diamonds and has all the technical toys to measure performance of a diamond. He has custom settings but I have not seen enough to form an opinion. He usually sells ready made settings (ex. Tacori, Gabriel & Co). I purchased my current engagement ring diamond from him. You can search GOG or AVC for examples.
Old World Diamonds (Adam) – http://www.oldworlddiamonds.com [Downtown NYC]
Adam specializes in selling true antique stones and as such the diamond prices are cheaper than a newly cut cushion. I believe he is also the supplier to some of the other vendors. I have heard that Adam does have a bench but they don't seem to advertise their custom work widely.
Diamonds by Lauren (David) - http://www.diamondsbylauren.com [Downtown NYC]
One of the few vendors who carry an inventory of colored stones - they are mostly radiant cut diamonds but there are cushions as well. This vendor strongly pushes the importance of buying with the eye and does not endorse the usage of tools such as ASET. They have a DBL branded line of yellow or lower colored antique cut cushions. David has benches that make hand made settings and CAD/CAST.
Victor Canera (Victor) - http://www.victorcanera.com [Los Angeles, California]
Victor gained popularity a couple years ago for his halo settings. His setting prices are like Art of Platinum/Leon prices and sometimes higher. Victor makes a fantastic halo ring especially with round diamonds. He recently launched a new diamond line that is cut for performance. There are photos on his facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/VictorCanera/photos_stream.
Single Stone (Ari) - http://www.singlestone.com [Los Angeles]
Specializes in antique stones and has a beautiful selection although I found his prices can be a bit higher. Single Stone makes some of the best Antique replicas in my opinion. I would also go to them to recut an old stone.
James Allen (Various Sales Associates) - http://www.jamesallen.com [Downtown NYC]
This is a larger scale vendor and sells a lot of virtual stones. James Allen actually do try to look at each diamond first and take photos. They have a pretty good selection of diamonds and I have noticed their growing inventory of Canadian cushion diamonds. They also sell settings but I haven’t been too impressed with their setting work. It is very easy to use the James Allen website to browse cushions.
Jewels by Erica Grace (Erica / Grace) – http://www.jewelsbyericagrace.com [Los Angeles / Seattle]
Two ladies that sell estate jewelry and antique items. They are known for their superb custom service and care. They recently re-released their custom setting line (using CAD/CAST methods). This is their setting price list can be found at http://interactivepdf.uniflip.com/2/77036/286475/pub.
Diamond Zone (Ilya) – http://www.diamondzonejewelry.com [Chicago]
I first came across this seller on ebay and visited their store while I was working in Chicago. They have a good selection of real old diamond at good prices. I am making a ring with them right now using CAD/CAST method. I haven’t seen enough examples of their work on rings so it will be a test. Their ebay page is below if you want to browse some of the diamonds they are selling. http://www.ebay.ca/sch/mydiamondzone/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25&_trksid=p3692
White Flash - http://www.whiteflash.com [Texas]
Highly reputable vendor known for their rounds and princess cuts but also carry cushions. They are skilled in CAD/CAST work. I had good experiences corresponding and working with Chris. He was really helpful and I wouldn't hesitate recommending him to others.
Brian Gavin Diamonds - http://www.briangavindiamonds.com [Texas]
Highly reputable vendor known for their rounds and princess cuts but also carry cushions. They are skilled in CAD/CAST. I have heard great things about Lesley and Brian although I never had the privilege for them to correspond with me.
2. Custom Setting Vendors
These are only a few custom hand made jewelers that I would recommend. Most are already mentioned above.
Timeless Luxury (Steven Kirsch) – http://www.timelessluxury.net [Downtown NYC]
Steven does work comparable to Leon Mege and he used to work for Leon. Steven made my wedding band and also just made another ring for me. I think he is super easy to work with and really accommodating. He bends backwards to make me happy. He doesn’t usually sell diamonds but can source them. He makes tons of halos so it will be easy.
http://www.stevenkirsch.com/
http://www.facebook.com/stevenkirschinc
Maytal Hannah - http://www.maytalhannah.com [Los Angeles]
Maytal made my Harry Winston inspired ring. She was known to be really easy to work with and does good work. Maytal was said to be trained under Michael Beaudry.
David Klass – [email protected] or (310) 266-4848 [Los Angeles]
No website. He is known to do good work at really low prices. His work is probably not at the same standards as above but a good alternative if on a tight budget. I am not sure what method he uses but he does make CAD drawings. He may do CAD and then hand make after. Examples of his work below:
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...art-deco-inspired-setting-for-my-oecs.176384/
Other top custom made vendors were mentioned above:
Victor Canera - http://www.victorcanera.com
Leon Mege - https://www.artofplatinum.com/vault
Engagement Rings Direct - http://www.engagementringsdirect.com
Jewels by Erica Grace - http://www.jewelsbyericagrace.com
3. Ready Made Setting Vendors
These are some of the ready made settings that have popular halo designs.
This list goes on and on so I suggest you start browsing http://www.pearlmansjewelers.com first for ideas. IDJ and GOG also carriers a wide range of ready made settings.
http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/styles?category=ER&default_head_shape=CC&style=Halo
http://www.tacori.com
http://www.beverleyk.com
Step 5: Summarize Your Decisions
Now that you have digested all this information, it's time to think about what you (or your loved one) wants! It is important to visit local stores to get a feel for what diamonds and settings look like in real life - this is really going to help you figure out what your tolerances are. Remember - you are going to look and not buy.
1. What is the total amount you want to spend on the ring?
2. What is more important to you – the diamond or the setting?
3. What type of cushion do you want (refer to step 1 above)?
4. What are the cut parameters you want?
Color: Recommend G/H unless she doesn’t care if it is warmer
Clarity: Recommend VS1/2 or eyeclean SI1
Carat How important is size to her or you just want to work within budget
L/W Ratio: Square or Rectangle
5. Do you want a ready made setting or a custom made one?
6. If custom made, do you want it all fully hand made (more expensive but more refined) or CAD/CAST?
7. Are you willing to go to the second hand market?
Ok - got your answers now? Start a new thread on Rocky Talky and the PS community can help you look! We are a helpful bunch here and have your best interest in mind (well most of us anyways).
Step 6: Confirm Your Strategy
You are almost there! You know what you want and what your options are - now, confirm your buying strategy! Remember that you have to get educated in both mind and eyes!
Cheapest and More Risky
Second hand ring off eBay including both setting and diamond. Risky but fine if you know what you are doing.
Cheaper and Less Risky
1. Buy a second hand ring off diamond forums (diamondbistro.com, loupetroop.com, pre-loved section on pricescope.com). These are usually sold by diamond lovers and of good quality.
2. Buy an antique stone and pair it up with a CAD/CAST setting from ERD or JbEG or other vendors you choose.
Middle Priced and Medium Risk
Buy a second hand diamond or setting off ebay cheap. Have the setting custom made by a known jeweler. Or buy the setting off ebay and have the diamond purchased from a well known vendor.
Middle Priced and Low Risk
1. Buy a newly cut diamond off ERD or Perry and have a CAD/CAST setting made by ERD (or a vendor of your choice). Or if you want more risk – try out a setting from David Klass or Diamond Zone (cheaper but I can’t personally vouch).
2. Buy an old stone from Old World Diamonds or JbEG and have a CAD/CAST setting made by ERD (or a vendor of your choice). Or if you want more risk – try out a setting from David Klass or Diamond Zone (cheaper but I can’t personally vouch).
Most Expensive and Low Risk
Good Old Gold August Vintage Cushion or Victor Canera's new cushion combined with a Hand Made Setting from Leon Mege, Steven Kirsch or Victor Canera.
Step 7: Buy Your Diamond and Show it Off!
Go buy your diamond/setting and make sure you come back to share with us. If you are unsure of what you purchased, post it in Rocky Talky for advice. If you are sure and done, post it on Show Me the Bling!
About This Guide
This guide / testimonial was created to share my perspectives and experiences in purchasing cushion diamonds and making a "Harry Winston" inspired ring. As a consumer, my goal is to help other consumers by sharing my personal experiences and addressing the common questions that are asked on Pricescope. This document was originally written for my friend and thus, include my perspectives / experiences with vendors. The photos and videos included are strictly for reference and while I may leverage vendor videos they are used only for illustrative purposes. For "professional" and unbiased education, I recommend reading the articles written by the pros accessed through the Articles tab on Pricescope. I encourage the PS consumer community to add their perspectives and experiences to this thread.
Step 1: Choose the Cushion Cut Type
Cushions are primarily classified as Cushion Brilliants and Cushion Modified Brilliants. There are further sub-classifications of cushions within these two classifications. The real Harry Winston ring comes in all forms of these cushions – the pictures below illustrate the diamonds through real Harry Winston rings owned by members of Pricescope.com.
1. Cushion Modified Brilliants
These are the more common cushions and account for approximately 80-90% of the cushion diamonds in the market. They are often negatively referred to as “crushed ice” due to their small flashes and disorganized patterns. These diamonds are cheaper as they are cut for weight retention (higher carat weight for more money) versus optimizing light performance. Regardless of what some vendors say about these diamonds, I have found them to be less attractive and appealing to the eye. On the flip side, they are generally lower in price as well and there are some facet patterns that I do like.
Here are some sample photos of typical Cushion Modified Brilliants.
These are some of the Cushion Modified Brilliant plots I like best - I would stick to these ones.
Cushions are sometimes misclassified as Cushion Modified Brilliants by GIA so you may see certificates that call them by the name but are not. There are many new advances in different facet types in this category that actually look nice. Most of the diamonds in this category are what I consider modern cushions.
Here is a video that will tell you more about Cushion Modified Brilliants:
(Note – the well cut cushion modified brilliants are rare and even at that not so hot in real life)
2. Cushion Brilliants
There are a wide range of cushion brilliants that can be broadly classified as modern cushions or antique cushions. The modern cushions have smaller flashes of light and the antique/chunky cushions have bigger flashes of light. People like both types of cushion brilliants but the trend has been towards antique/chunky cushions here on Pricescope.
Modern Cushions Brilliants
a. 4 Main Cushions are the most popular type of modern cushion brilliants. They are categorized by an X pattern on the diamond as shown by extremely well cut 4 Main Cushion pictures below. The diamond on the far right is a branded cut “X-Factor” by engagementringsdirect.com.
b. 8 Main Cushions are extremely rare these days and difficult to find. They are like a round diamond but in a rounded cushion shape – I believe they have the most sparkle and most pleasing look since you can’t see the X. They are rare because rough diamonds that are suited for this cut are often cut into round diamonds that make them more money. I haven’t seen an 8 Main Diamond in the past few years. This is also the closest pattern of the Tiffany Novo diamond. This is the type of modern cushion I have in my Harry Winston halo ring.
c. Square Hearts and Arrows are very similar to the 8 main modern cushions mentioned above. The difference is that they have a much harder square outline and perfect optics. They are very pricey and look less feminine. When set, people say it looks like a round diamond. There are very few vendors that carry Square Hearts and Arrows. Some may not consider Square H&A as cushion shaped diamonds.
d. Other Modern Cushions are plentiful in the marketplace and have a range of looks. They are usually branded and come with a price premium. The examples below are of the “Cushette” diamond and a BGD branded cushion (discontinued now?).
Antique Cushions Brilliants
Antique cushions are known for their bigger facets and flashes. Some of them have an obvious cross (known as “Maltese Cross”) and others have a flower pattern. Antique cushions can be newly cut or true antiques also known as “Old Mine Cut”. The antique cushions have a plot like the one below.
a. Newly Cut Antique Cushions or “Generic Cushions” are harder to find than the modern cushions. Some can be very well cut and others less perfect.
b. Branded Newly Cut Antique Cushions are more expensive than the generic antique cushions. There are two vendors that have developed antique cut cushions cut for light performance and to receive the highest cut ratings from AGS. Good Old Gold was the first and developed the very popular “August Vintage Cushion” but it also comes with a price premium due to all the research involved and the amount of rough required to cut to these specifications. Victor Canera has recently developed his own line and has a limited selection as of Dec 2012. The branded newly cut antique cushions are a good option when you are looking for a really well cut diamond and don’t want to invest the time in waiting and looking at diamonds. They are guaranteed to all look pretty much the same.
c. True Antique Cushion (Old Mine Cut - OMCs) are old diamonds cut around 1830s to the turn of the century. These diamonds have a lot of personality as each and every one looks different. These are generally cheaper than the newly cut diamonds but also harder to find especially in large sizes and high colors. OMCs in the larger size range and higher colors are often cut into modern diamonds. There are certain antique dealers and eBay that serve as great source for antique cushions.
New Innovations
There are also new cut innovations that we find on the market now and then. I will share one such innovation - it is the diamond that my friend (the one I wrote the guide for) ended up purchasing. The diamond was purchased from ERD and the GIA plot shows two fat mains and six skinny ones. The end effect is a diamond that has both big facets and sparkles. It is a neat and unique diamond of what I call a half modern / half antique. It is the first one I have ever seen with this plot.
Ideal Cushion Specifications
You will hear over and over again that there are no ideal cushion specifications and each one is very unique. While it may be true, I have found that certain parameters do work better than others. An ASET will also aid in your cut analysis.
Depth: 63% to 67% - Anything lower is what I call a "pancake" cushion and anything higher will face up smaller than required
Table: 46% to 59% - Anything higher is what I call a "helipad" cushion
Additional Cushion Cut Diamond Information
Reading: http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/cushion-cut-diamond
Learning Video:
Cushions: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cushion-cuts-a-collection.135031/
GIA and AGS Naming Conventions of Cushions: http://www.pricescope.com/journal/new_gia_and_agsl_naming_conventions_cushion_cut_diamonds
ASET as an Evaluation Tool: https://www.pricescope.com/articles/aset-diamond-evaluation-tool
Step 2: Set Your Diamond Parameters
Cost – Obviously, cost drives all of the parameters depending on what is most important to you / her / him.
Cut – Determines how well a diamond is cut. A well cut diamond is important but perfection like the branded cuts are sometimes not required and need to balanced with price.
Color – Grades start from D. I would say you can go as low as G/H without noticing any yellow. The true antique diamonds often look whiter than they are.
Clarity – Grades start from IF. I would say that as long as you can’t see any visible inclusions (known as “eye clean”) you will be fine. Go with VS1 to SI1 to be safe.
Carat – Refers to the weight of the diamond. The actual face-up size of the diamond is driven by the dimensions and cut of the diamond. Ultimately, what matters is the size the diamond faces up to the viewer but a well cut diamond will balance the size.
Size – Main thing is to determine the length to width ratio. Do you want a square or rectangular? 1.04 and below are considered square.
Step 3: Select Your Setting
This is easier if you have already decided on the setting (ie. Harry Winston halo design as a basis for this guide). There are various price points for a Harry Winston looking halo depending on how it is manufactured – ready made or custom made. When custom made, there is an expensive method of completely hand made and a cheaper method to have it CAD/CAST made. A Harry Winston halo setting can range from $2000 to $5000. CAD/CAST on the lower end and Hand Made / Hand Forged on the higher end. Ready made will range greatly depending on the brand.
Different types of halos: http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/engagement-rings/halo-rings
More designs: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/post-your-cushion-halos-here.88177/
1. Ready Made Setting
Ready made settings come in a range of price points from really expensive to really cheap. They are all driven by the quality of the setting and the brand. It all depends how picky you are on the setting.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/gabriel-co-halo-setting.180367/ (round diamond)
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/gabriel-co-round-vintage-halo-engagement-ring.180861/ (round diamond)
http://idjewelryonline.com/index.php?cPath=42_132
http://www.whiteflash.com/engagemen...i-bella-vita-diamond-engagement-ring-2043.htm
http://www.whiteflash.com/engagemen...ead-set-halo-diamond-engagement-ring-1843.htm
http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/style/ER8267W44JJ
2. Custom Made – CAD/CAST
This can be the cheaper method if you want to have a ring custom made. With that said, I have seen really expensive quotes for CAD/CAST and some very low quotes. The short of this method is that a CAD is created and a digital image is shared with you that you can see and approve first. A wax model is created from the CAD and then molded into the ring. The settings will be made to fit your diamond and design changes can be made.
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...tings-w-cad-rendering-for-cushion-cut.171259/
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...-know-about-cushion-halos-please-help.181481/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/erd-omb-cushion-halo-masterpiece.178601/
http://www.whiteflash.com/engagement-rings/diamond-settings/amphora-diamond-engagement-ring-1039.htm
http://www.whiteflash.com/engagemen...nievere-pave-diamond-engagement-ring-2099.htm
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...-antique-cushion-halo-engagement-ring.178840/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-fis-erd-halo-omb-cushion.162432/
http://www.pricescope.com/gallery/round-brilliant/drg
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cad-help-please.169580/
3. Custom Made – Hand Made / Hand Forged
This is generally the most expensive method to have the ring custom made. With that said, you can find low cost options which usually translate back to the quality of the setting. I would only recommend a few vendors that is worth the price and can deal well with people remotely. The artists I recommend do a really refined job and you can see less metal than options 2 above. I usually use this method for my jewelry but for many people … they can’t tell the difference.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/perry-chen-at-lm-steven-kirsch-cushion-halo.169586/
http://www.pricescope.com/blog/jewel-week-4-carat-cushion-unique-halo-setting
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/leon-mege-antique-cushion.140739/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/leon-mege-antique-cushion.140739/
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...y-victor-canera-cushion-w-emilia-halo.181156/
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...rom-erd-halo-setting-by-steven-kirsch.162955/
http://www.pricescope.com/blog/jewel-week-harry-winston-inspired-ring
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...making-maytal-hannah-halo-erd-cushion.147719/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/victor-canera-does-it-again-cushion-halo.172877/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/im-engaged-pics-of-my-leon-cushion-halo.154968/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/victor-canera-does-it-again-cushion-halo.172877/
http://www.pricescope.com/forum/sho...-my-3-62ct-padparadscha-sapphire-t174526.html
Step 4: Select Your Vendors
You can select to buy both the diamond and setting from the same vendor but most diamond sellers are very willing to send the diamond out to someone else to make the setting (exception is that Victor Canera will not make rings for GOG's AVC and GOG will not send AVCs to Victor Canera). You can also find a ready made setting and have someone put the diamond in it.
1. Diamond and Setting Vendors
These vendors are able to sell the stone and also make or sell the setting. It is essentially a one stop shop but a lot of people still go to one vendor for the diamond and get the setting done by another.
Engagement Rings Direct (Mark or Chris) – http://www.engagementringsdirect.com [Downtown NYC]
My husband bought my first diamond from Mark and many of my friends have since bought from him (and loved the experience). Mark is known for his good prices along with the balance on looks/prices. He has the branded X-Factor modern cushions and hand selected antique looking cushions. They also do both CAD/CAST and Hand Made settings. I find that their CAD/CAST work is better than most of the other vendors in terms of the metal work and pave. You can search ERD for examples. Mark is great at working within your budget.
Art of Platinum (Leon and Perry) - https://www.artofplatinum.com/vault [Downtown NYC]
Leon is the master of platinum pave settings – his work is simply amazing to me. I am very happy with the engagement ring he made for me. Leon is pricey and some find him difficult to work with - I have no issues with him. A few years ago, he also started selling diamonds through Perry. They have good prices on cushions and even rounds. From what I see, the diamonds and prices are comparable to ERD/Mark although I have also heard they were higher.
Good Old Gold (Jon) – http://www.goodoldgold.com [Long Island, NYC]
Jon spent time and money designing the “August Vintage Cushion” and knows the technical aspects of diamonds. He makes tons of videos educating people on diamonds and has all the technical toys to measure performance of a diamond. He has custom settings but I have not seen enough to form an opinion. He usually sells ready made settings (ex. Tacori, Gabriel & Co). I purchased my current engagement ring diamond from him. You can search GOG or AVC for examples.
Old World Diamonds (Adam) – http://www.oldworlddiamonds.com [Downtown NYC]
Adam specializes in selling true antique stones and as such the diamond prices are cheaper than a newly cut cushion. I believe he is also the supplier to some of the other vendors. I have heard that Adam does have a bench but they don't seem to advertise their custom work widely.
Diamonds by Lauren (David) - http://www.diamondsbylauren.com [Downtown NYC]
One of the few vendors who carry an inventory of colored stones - they are mostly radiant cut diamonds but there are cushions as well. This vendor strongly pushes the importance of buying with the eye and does not endorse the usage of tools such as ASET. They have a DBL branded line of yellow or lower colored antique cut cushions. David has benches that make hand made settings and CAD/CAST.
Victor Canera (Victor) - http://www.victorcanera.com [Los Angeles, California]
Victor gained popularity a couple years ago for his halo settings. His setting prices are like Art of Platinum/Leon prices and sometimes higher. Victor makes a fantastic halo ring especially with round diamonds. He recently launched a new diamond line that is cut for performance. There are photos on his facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/VictorCanera/photos_stream.
Single Stone (Ari) - http://www.singlestone.com [Los Angeles]
Specializes in antique stones and has a beautiful selection although I found his prices can be a bit higher. Single Stone makes some of the best Antique replicas in my opinion. I would also go to them to recut an old stone.
James Allen (Various Sales Associates) - http://www.jamesallen.com [Downtown NYC]
This is a larger scale vendor and sells a lot of virtual stones. James Allen actually do try to look at each diamond first and take photos. They have a pretty good selection of diamonds and I have noticed their growing inventory of Canadian cushion diamonds. They also sell settings but I haven’t been too impressed with their setting work. It is very easy to use the James Allen website to browse cushions.
Jewels by Erica Grace (Erica / Grace) – http://www.jewelsbyericagrace.com [Los Angeles / Seattle]
Two ladies that sell estate jewelry and antique items. They are known for their superb custom service and care. They recently re-released their custom setting line (using CAD/CAST methods). This is their setting price list can be found at http://interactivepdf.uniflip.com/2/77036/286475/pub.
Diamond Zone (Ilya) – http://www.diamondzonejewelry.com [Chicago]
I first came across this seller on ebay and visited their store while I was working in Chicago. They have a good selection of real old diamond at good prices. I am making a ring with them right now using CAD/CAST method. I haven’t seen enough examples of their work on rings so it will be a test. Their ebay page is below if you want to browse some of the diamonds they are selling. http://www.ebay.ca/sch/mydiamondzone/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25&_trksid=p3692
White Flash - http://www.whiteflash.com [Texas]
Highly reputable vendor known for their rounds and princess cuts but also carry cushions. They are skilled in CAD/CAST work. I had good experiences corresponding and working with Chris. He was really helpful and I wouldn't hesitate recommending him to others.
Brian Gavin Diamonds - http://www.briangavindiamonds.com [Texas]
Highly reputable vendor known for their rounds and princess cuts but also carry cushions. They are skilled in CAD/CAST. I have heard great things about Lesley and Brian although I never had the privilege for them to correspond with me.
2. Custom Setting Vendors
These are only a few custom hand made jewelers that I would recommend. Most are already mentioned above.
Timeless Luxury (Steven Kirsch) – http://www.timelessluxury.net [Downtown NYC]
Steven does work comparable to Leon Mege and he used to work for Leon. Steven made my wedding band and also just made another ring for me. I think he is super easy to work with and really accommodating. He bends backwards to make me happy. He doesn’t usually sell diamonds but can source them. He makes tons of halos so it will be easy.
http://www.stevenkirsch.com/
http://www.facebook.com/stevenkirschinc
Maytal Hannah - http://www.maytalhannah.com [Los Angeles]
Maytal made my Harry Winston inspired ring. She was known to be really easy to work with and does good work. Maytal was said to be trained under Michael Beaudry.
David Klass – [email protected] or (310) 266-4848 [Los Angeles]
No website. He is known to do good work at really low prices. His work is probably not at the same standards as above but a good alternative if on a tight budget. I am not sure what method he uses but he does make CAD drawings. He may do CAD and then hand make after. Examples of his work below:
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...art-deco-inspired-setting-for-my-oecs.176384/
Other top custom made vendors were mentioned above:
Victor Canera - http://www.victorcanera.com
Leon Mege - https://www.artofplatinum.com/vault
Engagement Rings Direct - http://www.engagementringsdirect.com
Jewels by Erica Grace - http://www.jewelsbyericagrace.com
3. Ready Made Setting Vendors
These are some of the ready made settings that have popular halo designs.
This list goes on and on so I suggest you start browsing http://www.pearlmansjewelers.com first for ideas. IDJ and GOG also carriers a wide range of ready made settings.
http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/styles?category=ER&default_head_shape=CC&style=Halo
http://www.tacori.com
http://www.beverleyk.com
Step 5: Summarize Your Decisions
Now that you have digested all this information, it's time to think about what you (or your loved one) wants! It is important to visit local stores to get a feel for what diamonds and settings look like in real life - this is really going to help you figure out what your tolerances are. Remember - you are going to look and not buy.
1. What is the total amount you want to spend on the ring?
2. What is more important to you – the diamond or the setting?
3. What type of cushion do you want (refer to step 1 above)?
4. What are the cut parameters you want?
Color: Recommend G/H unless she doesn’t care if it is warmer
Clarity: Recommend VS1/2 or eyeclean SI1
Carat How important is size to her or you just want to work within budget
L/W Ratio: Square or Rectangle
5. Do you want a ready made setting or a custom made one?
6. If custom made, do you want it all fully hand made (more expensive but more refined) or CAD/CAST?
7. Are you willing to go to the second hand market?
Ok - got your answers now? Start a new thread on Rocky Talky and the PS community can help you look! We are a helpful bunch here and have your best interest in mind (well most of us anyways).
Step 6: Confirm Your Strategy
You are almost there! You know what you want and what your options are - now, confirm your buying strategy! Remember that you have to get educated in both mind and eyes!
Cheapest and More Risky
Second hand ring off eBay including both setting and diamond. Risky but fine if you know what you are doing.
Cheaper and Less Risky
1. Buy a second hand ring off diamond forums (diamondbistro.com, loupetroop.com, pre-loved section on pricescope.com). These are usually sold by diamond lovers and of good quality.
2. Buy an antique stone and pair it up with a CAD/CAST setting from ERD or JbEG or other vendors you choose.
Middle Priced and Medium Risk
Buy a second hand diamond or setting off ebay cheap. Have the setting custom made by a known jeweler. Or buy the setting off ebay and have the diamond purchased from a well known vendor.
Middle Priced and Low Risk
1. Buy a newly cut diamond off ERD or Perry and have a CAD/CAST setting made by ERD (or a vendor of your choice). Or if you want more risk – try out a setting from David Klass or Diamond Zone (cheaper but I can’t personally vouch).
2. Buy an old stone from Old World Diamonds or JbEG and have a CAD/CAST setting made by ERD (or a vendor of your choice). Or if you want more risk – try out a setting from David Klass or Diamond Zone (cheaper but I can’t personally vouch).
Most Expensive and Low Risk
Good Old Gold August Vintage Cushion or Victor Canera's new cushion combined with a Hand Made Setting from Leon Mege, Steven Kirsch or Victor Canera.
Step 7: Buy Your Diamond and Show it Off!
Go buy your diamond/setting and make sure you come back to share with us. If you are unsure of what you purchased, post it in Rocky Talky for advice. If you are sure and done, post it on Show Me the Bling!
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like 
They don't seem to advertise it, but I am under the impression it will become a more prominent element of their business model in the future. 
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