Men's OEC Ring Design

[bluelotus]

Hello all,
This is a continuation of a thread in Antique & Vintage Jewelry:
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/advice-on-a-2ct-vs2-n-oec.197620/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/advice-on-a-2ct-vs2-n-oec.197620/[/URL]

Now that I am refining the design for this ring I thought it made sense to continue the thread here.

I have been working with a local casting company that works to create 3D models that are then "printed" into wax that become the basis for casting. Fascinating really but I have found the process of designing a bit frustrating. Having practiced architecture I am comfortable with the idea of working up virtual models of designs but I have found it a bit difficult to communicate what I am looking for in this ring.

Attached please find the most recent drawings that were produced based on designs I provided and some images of vintage rings that I thought were attractive and could act as models for my ring.






I like the shape or form of the ring in the last photo and want to try to work to achieve something like it. . . I am beginning to understand why good jewelry design is difficult to achieve!

Dreamer's octagonal milgrain surround for George was the inspiration for the platinum frame. The shape of the band itself still feels too abstracted to me without the suave shape of the last photo. . . I'll post a couple more men's rings that I really like. . .

 

[patricias]

Very classy design.

 

[bluelotus]

Here's the back of the last ring. . . I like how the band tapers so dramatically at the back:


Here's one that was used as a direct model. . .

 

[bluelotus]

This is one that GemFever shared that is the same vintage. . . I love the florentine finish but I am thinking of going with a brushed, matte, or dull finish. . .

 

[GemFever]

Love the mixed metals! And the combination of octagonal setting with the wide shank. It's unusual (which makes it so much harder & more frustrating during the design process) but looks like it has great potential.

Considering that your diamond is two carats, it's going to have to be a fairly substantial ring because the diamond is pretty big. Have you tried anything of that width on your finger to make sure you like the size? You mentioned you liked how the inspiration ring tapers significantly in the back, this might make the ring more comfortable to wear. If the shank has considerable width, make sure you get the sizing correctly. You might need to get a size or two larger than your normal finger size because wide rings tend to feel tighter. You may already know this, but I wanted to share my experience with wide rings just in case.

The usual thing people say about CADs is that the CADs always look bulkier than the final product. But it's also good that you're getting a wax model first. If I understand the process correctly, you can carve the wax model after it's printed, you can shave off edges and change it somewhat before casting. So you may get to make some important tweaks at that point, too.

How are you going to do the mixed metals? Shouldn't the CAD only show the elements that will be printed and cast (so the shank only, with the octagonal white metal bezel to be added to it later)? Don't know much about this, hopefully someone else will chime in.

Last but not least, it might be helpful to move this thread to Rocky Talky (hit the "report concern" button and ask the moderators to move it). SMTB is usually for finished pieces, so you might not get the right audience to help you hone your design.

 

[bluelotus]

Hey GemFever,
Yes, the shape of the ring is not quite right. . . I want it to be wider at the top then taper toward the halway point and remain the same width to the back. Please see some other ring shapes that I like and will show the designer when we meet next week.


From what I understand, the platinum frame and the gold ring will be cast separately then joined together later. I don't know how platinum is attached to the gold but it is fused in some manner.

This was the first design that was given to me but I was horrified at how high and big the platinum frame was shown. The most recent design is a vast improvement in terms of the platinum frame but I like the smooth rounded shapes better than the hard edges. . . Maybe simply sinking the refined and lightened frame down into the rounded ring is what I need to start with then focus on finessing the shape. . .

 

[bluelotus]

That citrine ring with mine cut sides that I posted above is sublime . . . the combination of rose gold, yellow, and diamonds is beautiful.

I come from a family where men do comfortably wear jewelry and I have been wearing rings from the time I was about 4 or 5. My first ring was a Burmese ruby, then later my birthstone, Sapphire, then a plain signet from my grandparents. I now have a largish silver zuni ring with turqoise, mother of pearl, onyx, and coral that is very wide at the top and I find it very comfortable.

As you may have seen from my earliest posts about this project I had seriously considered the bridge style bezel settings but in the end felt that they seemed too delicate for someone who is 6 feet tall. I then started looking at simple antique/vintage settings and find that, right now, I am attracted to wide convex shapes that taper to the back.

Among the jewelry shown by PSers I love, love, love what CoatiMundi (is that Erica?) has shown. The simple sculptural forms of the two gold/OEC rings that I remember she has shown would be equally at home on a man's hand. The octagonal frame for the diamond is interesting to me in part because it is a simple way of mounting the stone while expressing the diamond's geometry.

Here is one that has a great profile:

 

[bluelotus]

Here are some others that I think are really beautiful. The very plain ring has an 85 point OEC in it. The other art deco ring I think is about a 1 carat stone if I remember correctly. . .

 

[bluelotus]

I wish the outfits like Singlestone would offer well designed rings for men. . . there's not much out there but I do believe that many men would wear more interesting things if there were good designs available. . .

 

[bluelotus]

I love this one and would love to copy this at some point. This one sold at auction last year. . .

 

[gregchang35]

Hi there.

From what i can tell, the outside circumference of the inspiration ring is greater and more elliptical than the inside (fitting side) of the ring. By changing that dimension, i think you might have it right. At present, the outer diameter of the CAD seems too similar to the inside diameter, hence looking more like a normal ring versus the vintage/gyspy style that you like.

I do like the last one you posted with the sapphires!!!!

oops- just re read your post and the original CAD was not to your liking, and the second one needs refinement. i think getting the mount sitting into the ring may help. But still would consider the changes to the outer circumference to the inner circumference i was talking about above to inbetween the 1st and 2nd CAD

cant wait to see more pic of the 2ct OEC!!!

 

[bluelotus]

Hi gregchang

Yes, the outer curve needs to be more eliptical than the inner. . . .let's see how the next meeting goes. Once the design is finalized it will go to fabrication!

I see that you decided to sell your vintage inspired OEC ring. . . any other ring in the works to take its place??

 

[gregchang35]

Hey hey.

That piece is not for sale. I made a listing on loupe troop ( I as am assuming u saw it there) for ppl to get in touch with me for a gtg ( get together) in the NW of USA in August last year. We can't put our emails up here. So that is one way of getting ppl to get in touch outside of the PS forums.

That vintage inspired OEC piece is currently undergoing a remake at a differnt jeweller. There were a few issues with the setting of the diamond that it spent more time in the first jewelers bench than in my possession. So, here's hoping for a better result with this jeweler.

Good luck with the next meeting! With a 2ct OEC in that setting, I think it will be great!

 

[bluelotus]

Hey,
Sorry to hear there were issues with the setting. I hope this next round is successful.
Are you redesigning the ring? Do post photos!

 

[gregchang35]

Hi Bluelotus,

I love that design that i had created, so i am getting it remade; hopefully with a better result. if not, i will keep the diamond for a different idea- pendant for one of my daughters..

it is a 0.65ct O colour OEC.

I will definitely post photos when it is completed.

I cant wait to see how your design goes. i love the octagonal shape and the milgrain on the bezel. I wonder if they can make the platinum platform contour the shape of the ring? hmm... being a 2ct OEC....what that may mean that the sides/ girdle (which can be described as the East and West sides= right and left sides of the diamond in this setting) of the diamond may stick out/ be unprotected.....

 

[bluelotus]

Hello again,
I think the problem of the sides of the platinum frame rising up higher at the east/west than the north/ south will be corrected once the curvature is corrected to match what I've been looking at in the way of the vintage settings. This was one of the things that I don't like about the square edged design. I see now that the smoother curved design with the platinum frame sticking up too high actually got the frame reveal to be equal all the way around. What I'll do is have the designer revise that model to show the lighter frame set lower into the ring then work on the shape. Looking at all of these images together in my posts makes me realize that it is quite close.

Gosh, what a drag that you have to have the whole thing remade. . . do post images once you have something to share!

Now that I have found what seems to be a good local bench I suspect that this is not going to be my last project!

 

[GemFever]

I don't have much to add about your specific CADs and design (design is not my strong suit, unfortunately), but I wanted to link this thread to show one amazing transformation from a bulky CAD to a great CAD and eventually a beautiful ring (which has its own SMTB thread). Maybe you'll find some of the ideas in this thread useful. It was eye opening to me how much a CAD model can be tweaked.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/help-with-cads-for-my-ec-please.194129/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/help-with-cads-for-my-ec-please.194129/[/URL]

 

[bluelotus]

Thanks for that link. Very helpful and encouraging. I was beginning to feel like I was being unreasonable in my desire to perfect the design but now that I've posted all of this I realize that I am not. I want to make sure that the ring design is "mind clean" (as some have said to describe their feelings about their diamonds). More soon!

By the way, GemFever, what is the link to the finished ring referenced above? I didn't know how to search for it in SMTB.
Thanks!

 

[bluelotus]

Thank you gregchang for naming the style I have been so attracted to. For some reason I didn't see that ALL of the rings that I like are variations on the gypsy ring theme. This realization will make it easier and more simple to proceed. Thank you for using the word "gypsy"!

 

[bluelotus]

A recent photo to share with those who haven't seen the other thread. . . I am definitely getting better at capturing the stone's beauty.

 

[bluelotus]

Here's a short blip on the gypsy setting taken from a retailer of vintage jewelry:

"The gypsy setting is one of the most secure settings for gemstones. As such, it has been favored by men since its inception in the late 1880s. According to an 1884 issue of the Jewelers’ Circular and Horological Review, while the gypsy ring had been in fashion among men for quite some time, ladies were beginning to wear them in the quintessential Victorian three-ring fashion:

“Gypsy rings, with the stones deeply imbedded in the gold, which were originally intended only for gentlemen, are now as often chosen by ladies. As a whole, these are not so massive as those worn by gentlemen. They are rounded bands of gold and may have a ruby, sapphire, cat’s-eye or any other stone in the center with a diamond on each side. The stones are so buried in the gold that only the surface shows.” {1}

At this same time a new trend was emerging, one so novel that it was called odd in the same issue of the Jewelers’ Circular. “Rings of hammered platina* with a brilliant diamond in gypsy setting are odd looking, as the metal resembles silver somewhat.” {2} Since yellow gold was still the fashion of the day, platina was most definitely out of place."

 

[gregchang35]

nice OEC......LOVE the OEC for the patterning and the kozibe effect... the reflection of the culet on the edge of the table/ kite areas. YUMMY!

 

[bluelotus]

Here is the most recent cad . . . Thank you gregchang35 for your input!

 

[GemFever]

Looks great!

 

[bluelotus]

Thank you to you too gemfever! I think this is looking finished . . .

 

[chrono]

The taper is more gradual than the inspiration ring; is this your preference?

 

[bluelotus]

Astute observation chrono. Yes, my preference was to have the taper go down to the rear shank width at the halfway mark. I will bring this up and see what it looks like. All the other revisions were incorporated, however, and I think this also looks quite nice. What do you think?

 

[gregchang35]

That looks great! I think it captures all the design elements that you were after. Solid ring. Also check the setting of the diamond- if the table and girdle is where you want it. It is minor in the whole scheme of things. With most gypsy rings, the diamond seems buried so much that the table of the diamond is flush with the ring. Your design has a bezel with milgraining and as such brings the diamond table above the usual gypsy setting. The bezel is at a minimal height above the ring now. I am not sure if you could get the bezel set lower into the ring given that the OEC is 2ct.

Tapering of the band is gradual which may mean more gold and therefore more cost. Have them change it and see what it looks like. It may look more/ less appealing for you.

 

[bluelotus]

Please, your thoughts on this most recent:

 

[bluelotus]