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Is there a trend moving away from hand forged to CAD?

royalstarrynight

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
352
Hi All,

I'm new to the diamond side of things and was thinking about getting a stone set.

I noticed there's been a smaller amount of people who are setting with VC, LM and SK? Any speculations?

Also, when calculating coverage for a multistone ring such as 3, 5 or 7 stone ring how do you decide what is enough coverage? I'd ideally like full coverage side to side but I thought it'd be fun if there were other engineers or nerds who did calculations like 33% circumference= full coverage.

I broke in and did a powerpoint mock up on my finger. The reason the baguettes are so short were to preserve the graduation of stone size for the gallery view. I had originally wanted to do a Yssie 5 stone trellis but already got a veto from LM. VC also admitted it wouldn't be particularly attractive and that a three stone might be better. I'm thinking about pears for side stones.

I'm struggling with what vendor to choose. Right behind SK, I was thinking about contact ERD for the lovely work Mark did with Valmanin. Recommendations?

My stone's stats are a roval 6.6x7.6mm

13116374_3221621493516_8786907571798376956_o.jpg
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
56,277
I hold my fingers together just like yours are in that picture, and then I measure the mm that show on top of the ring finger. I do not want stones to be between my fingers. That's how I figure my maximum width of stones.

I think most young people getting engaged can't afford handforged, for one thing. I certainly do not think there is a trend away from handforged by any means. Anyone wanting a pave ring like Victor and Steven do would be most wise to choose them to make their ring. But for some rings, such as solitaires, I don't think it would matter as much if the budget does now allow for handforged. I have a PS friend who is having Caysie van Bebber (through Love Affair Diamonds) make her a 5 stone ring right now. For her project, CADs were most helpful in making sure her vision and the finished product would be the same. On the other hand, if I wanted a VC Emilya or a SK Preciosa, I'd just send them my diamond, the deposit, and my ring size! So it really depends on what you are having made, your budget, and whether CADs would be helpful or not.

I absolutely would use Victor or Steven for handforged. I LOVE an oval with side pears and would definitely listen to the experts who said 3 stones would be best for your project. I have also seen the CADs for my friend's ring, so I would also recommend Caysie van Bebber for a three or 5 stone ring that is cast but hand assembled and finished (she also recently made me a beautiful setting for a sapphire). My ultimate choice of those three would have to do with the design I choose, my budget, and their quotes.
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
40,198
Handforging costs more than CAD and CAST (unless the CAD and CAST vendor is crazy). And, as DS explained already, most people just don't have the budget for it.

That said, in addition to that, handforging isn't always the best method of fabrication for the design at hand. For designs that are complicated and require a lot of symmetry (look up some of Carslyle's designs and you'll see what I mean) CAD is better as handforging will sometimes have less than perfect symmetry. And obviously having the ability to tweak things 'virtually' is a huge advantage and time saver (time is money).

For pave, absolutely, if you can afford handforging from a master (like Victor or Steven), then you should spring for it.
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/which-online-retailer-for-a-custom-setting.203660/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/which-online-retailer-for-a-custom-setting.203660/[/URL]
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/what-do-you-all-think-of-this-stone.219137/page-2#post-3981481#p3981481']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/what-do-you-all-think-of-this-stone.219137/page-2#post-3981481#p3981481[/URL]

But for designs like three stones and so forth where the strength and durability isn't as necessary as it is for pave, the necessity to go with handforged (from a practical perspective) instead of CAD just isn't there. And CAD gives you the ability to see the design as it comes to life.

That said, you have to be careful with your vendor selection no matter what method of manufacture you use. Please read here: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/custom-jewelry-work-cad-and-cast-psa.175834/#post-3202426#p3202426']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/custom-jewelry-work-cad-and-cast-psa.175834/#post-3202426#p3202426[/URL]
 

royalstarrynight

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
352
Thanks DS and Gypsy.
I was admiring valmanin solitaire's flow as well as sbear's steven's 3 stone.
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/steven-kirsch-jbeg-owd-yssie-2-62ctw-oec-3-stone-goodness.184650/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/steven-kirsch-jbeg-owd-yssie-2-62ctw-oec-3-stone-goodness.184650/[/URL]
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-3-55-oec-in-erd-rg-wg-solitaire.199003/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-3-55-oec-in-erd-rg-wg-solitaire.199003/[/URL]

VC isn't comfortable doing the three stone design with a trellis. Or rather called it experimental. LM completely rejected a trellis idea all together because he only does "classic" designs. SK was willing to entertain. It just makes me nervous that they're all rejecting it.

Would ERD be a good choice? I haven't been impressed with DK's preciscion. Any other alternatives?

I think Caysie's asethic is a little different than mine. I'm not looking for pave work or anything that's complicated, not even miligrain.
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
40,198
Three stone trellis is causing all this fuss?

I would definitely just go CAD!!

You can do BGD too. I've had several great projects with them and been thrilled. ERD (BE now) too of course. For me the finish is what matters most and sets a good bench apart from a great one. Those would be my top two.
 

royalstarrynight

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
352
Thank you Gypsy! I'll shoot BGD an e-mail.

I also never knew this could that much trouble...

All I crave is fluidity.
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
40,198
LOL! I agree! Have to tried Mark Morrel? He might be a great fit for you too.
 

ericad

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Jul 28, 2007
Messages
2,033
The best advice I can offer is to find examples here on PS of trellis style settings you love, and then approach the jewelers who created them. Not everyone can achieve the little nuances that make this style so great - as you said, the fluidity. Every jeweler has her/his niche, so it's important to hire the one who has the right aesthetic to get the job done to your expectations, and using someone who has already created the setting of your dreams is the best place to start!

Good luck with your project - it will be gorgeous!

ETA - CAD will leave much less to chance than hand forged, unless you're replicating a hand forged design that the jeweler has already created. CAD will allow you to see every detail of the design - I'm a great fan of CAD/cast because it gives you much more control over the finished product. And a well cast, finely crafted ring (like most all of the PS recommended jewelers will create) will last a lifetime or more, just like a hand forged ring. It's a win/win in my opinion - I've done both hand forged and cast for my own personal pieces and honestly prefer the CAD/cast process. A high end cast ring will be cast in multiple pieces and hand assembled and finished, so it's really more of a hybrid of the two anyway. Best of both worlds.
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
40,198
Oh, Grace that's a great idea!
 

arkieb1

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 11, 2012
Messages
9,686

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
40,198
Sorry Erica. :oops:
 

royalstarrynight

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
352
arkieb1 said:
Some links;


[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/steven-kirsch-jbeg-owd-yssie-2-62ctw-oec-3-stone-goodness.184650/'][url=ttp://www.pricescope.com/forum/show-me-the-ring/steven-kirsch-oval-half-moon-step-cut-three-stone-t192735.html]ttp://www.pricescope.com/forum/show-me-the-ring/steven-kirsch-oval-half-moon-step-cut-three-stone-t192735.html


I think it depends on what you want made, a 5 stone with half ovals and bullets I'd hand over to Victor or Steven and let THEM make it. The handforged jewellers are artists they don't respond well to being told how to do something they know doesn't work.

Otherwise go with one of the CAD jewellers everyone recommends on here.
You totally caught all the links that I've been referring to. It's a big reason why I've been swaying towards the hand forged guys because SB's 3 stone trellis, yssie's 5 stone trellis

Both Steven and Victor said that a half moon/bullet idea would be ridiculously high and uncomfortable on my tiny 3.25 ring size. :(

DBLs quote was 1.5 of everybody else's which scared me quite a bit.

My original inspiration was travelgals pad ring by LM
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-ps-gift-finally-my-amelia-ring-pad-by-richard-wise-setting-by-leon-mege.127094/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-ps-gift-finally-my-amelia-ring-pad-by-richard-wise-setting-by-leon-mege.127094/[/URL]

Mark Morrell is a great idea! I've admired his work for a long time! I just can't help but in be in awe when I hear these guy's voices in real life.

Thanks for all the fantastic ideas.[/URL][/URL]
 

royalstarrynight

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
352
And BGD just said they can't do a oval with pears for me...
"For the trellis style, they are essentially wires that are molded to create the design. Because of this, it requires that the stones be similar in shape to one another for it to work. Meaning, you can have a round center with round sides or princess cut center and princes sides. There isn't a way to actually create a style with a round center and pear sides. "

Wow this is getting shot down pretty fast.

I wonder why Steven Kirsch is the only one that is willing to do this endeavor. I'll wait for ERD but I guess my vendor has been chosen due to process of elimination!
 

WillyDiamond

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
1,320
I think Chris at BE can do what you want.

Question on CAD vs. Hand-Forged........can you tell the difference when looking at it?
 

royalstarrynight

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
352
I don't know if you can really tell the difference. I just haven't seen a lot of CAD versions of what I'm looking for. This may be just wire work. I think the crisp lines may be different post polishing if they are assembled prior to polishing. This is all speculation.

I gave BE/ERD a ping yesterday as well!

Thanks for all these suggestions!
 
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