Help needed - how thin should platinum shank with Halo setting be for 1.9 carot cushion stone

[scarsmum]

You might just want to check on the preloved forum whether the emilya available for sale would possibly fit your diamond. Then check if the seller would have the current stone removed. It’s a brand new setting.

 

[scarsmum]

Thread: https://www.pricescope.com/communit...emilya-halo-setting-size-5-never-worn.243141/

 

[The Stig]

Attached is a pic of the wax model and the others are the actual center stone displayed in one of the IDJ display models we are copying. Decided on a 3 dimensional halo with diamonds on the side of the halo. Thoughts? We are taking a trip to South Africa in Oct and I plan to propose in the Guarden Route on the coast near Cape Town.

 

[BlingDreams]

Attached is a pic of the wax model and the others are the actual center stone displayed in one of the IDJ display models we are copying. Decided on a 3 dimensional halo with diamonds on the side of the halo. Thoughts? We are taking a trip to South Africa in Oct and I plan to propose in the Guarden Route on the coast near Cape Town.

What a beautiful piece!! Wow... talk about sparkle power And I always love halos with diamonds on the side too. Wall-to-wall shiny . Truly, I love it and I’m sure she will too.

The only thought/consideration I have is that it’s a “peg head” design, meaning that the head is secured at only one place on the band; that gives the potential for one good whack to knock it off. While it’s not common, it can and does happen. The upside to this design is its sleek and elegant and simple all at the same time.

If interested, we can point you to some design modifications that would make the head more secure and still allow the halo you’re wanting.

 

[soxfan]

I'd do a cathedral setting and NO airline.

 

[The Stig]

If interested, we can point you to some design modifications that would make the head more secure and still allow the halo you’re wanting.

Yes please, that’s actually what I was going backwards and forwards with IDJ on. I wanted more of a u shape rather than a v, however not quite a basket with a donut where the wedding band can’t sit flush. When I spoke with Victor C on the phone, he actually recommended this V design as the best fit for what I wanted (setting as low as possible with room to allow the wedding band to sit flush). What are your suggestions?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Ok, we are at problem #1 already. The design is not even close to what we are used to seeing. The peg head has been mentioned, and there is no tilt to that halo. We call that the flying saucer look. I personally prefer the Emilya design without diamonds on the side of the halo because that area is what will get bumped against things, and I'd want a metal edge. I also like cathedral shoulders for the sturdiness. But even with out that, the base should be larger with the struts spread out a little more and a doughnut at the base. I would NOT recommend diamonds on the doughnut, though, as it will scratch the wedding band.

https://www.victorcanera.com/rings/engagement/the-emilya-halo-solitaire

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Many of us think the wedding band looks much better with a tiny gap rather than having the look of two bands glued together like one wider band. Unless the rings are pretty snug or soldered together, they won't stay flush anyway.

 

[The Stig]

I'd do a cathedral setting and NO airline.

Thanks SOX, however the lady didn’t want a cathedral setting per what she told her best friend. She was adverse to something bulky like that if that makes sense. What is an airline?

 

[mrs-b]

I don't mean to be debbie-downer here, but that halo is messy and the flow is poor. it should look like an unbroken frame. This looks like a lot of disconnected little stones - rough, not smooth, and it will be rough to the touch, too. Also, there is way too much gap between the top row of diamonds and the side row. Not only does it not look tight and smooth, it will catch everything and will be a bear of a setting to keep clean - which means that the ring will look perpetually dull.

Granted, this might not bother you, and your fiancee-to-be might not even notice. And your timeframe might be such that you feel you have no other option. But since you've said you don't want to ever upgrade and you want a ring that she can wear for many decades, this would be a disappointing setting with which to go.

 

[BlingDreams]

I don't mean to be debbie-downer here, but that halo is messy and the flow is poor. it should look like an unbroken frame. This looks like a lot of disconnected little stones - rough, not smooth, and it will be rough to the touch, too. Also, there is way too much gap between the top row of diamonds and the side row. Not only does it not look tight and smooth, it will catch everything and will be a bear of a setting to keep clean - which means that the ring will look perpetually dull.

Granted, this might not bother you, and your fiancee-to-be might not even notice. And your timeframe might be such that you feel you have no other option. But since you've said you don't want to ever upgrade and you want a ring that she can wear for many decades, this would be a disappointing setting with which to go.

Are you seeing all of that in the wax? Or in the ring it’s modeled on? I can’t see what you’re seeing on the wax and since the ring is just a temp example I’m pretty sure that doesn’t matter as much? And if it’s with the wax, how can it be known how much will be shaved/polished off during the finishing?

Truly, trying to learn here...

 

[mrs-b]

Not the wax - none of that is apparent in a wax.

In the setting already made. This isn't the OP's setting, so there's room to fix it. But there's a lot of ground to cover to make this a nice, tight, smooth setting.

ETA and for what it's worth - the band on the already-made setting is much nicer than the head.

 

[BlingDreams]

Ok, we are at problem #1 already. The design is not even close to what we are used to seeing. The peg head has been mentioned, and there is no tilt to that halo. We call that the flying saucer look. I personally prefer the Emilya design without diamonds on the side of the halo because that area is what will get bumped against things, and I'd want a metal edge. I also like cathedral shoulders for the sturdiness. But even with out that, the base should be larger with the struts spread out a little more and a doughnut at the base. I would NOT recommend diamonds on the doughnut, though, as it will scratch the wedding band.

https://www.victorcanera.com/rings/engagement/the-emilya-halo-solitaire

@The Stig - To the point of the halo tilt, it’s all personal preference. Do you know if you like a tilt or not? The Emilya is a perfect example of a beautifully done tilt. I believe it’s 20 degrees you would ask for if you like that look, but others can correct me if I’m remembering wrong.

 

[BlingDreams]

Yes please, that’s actually what I was going backwards and forwards with IDJ on. I wanted more of a u shape rather than a v, however not quite a basket with a donut where the wedding band can’t sit flush. When I spoke with Victor C on the phone, he actually recommended this V design as the best fit for what I wanted (setting as low as possible with room to allow the wedding band to sit flush). What are your suggestions?

Something similar to these is what I was thinking of; not exact to your design of course but should give you the idea. Ignoring the design in the basket... see how there’s a secondary attachment on the sides? It’s not quite a cathedral as it doesn’t go all the way up but it adds stability and security. Do heed @diamondseeker2006 ‘s advice and add a donut but don’t put diamonds in it.





Eta: you can also see in VC’s Emilya how he does it with simply adding a donut and moving the struts outward.

 

[MollyMalone]

Thanks SOX, however the lady didn’t want a cathedral setting per what she told her best friend. She was adverse to something bulky like that if that makes sense. What is an airline?

An air line is the slight gap between the center stone & the halo (some people like that, others don't). But I'm not sure soxfan realized that those color photos (not of the wax/resin model) in your post #33 were of your center stone plopped into the showcase setting that had the halo head closest in dimensions to your stone.

 

[BlingDreams]

@The Stig - Is this what you’re after, except with a double sided pave halo and a donut with widened struts?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZMa6wbnWRA/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1mtv170w5w94r

 

[The Stig]

An air line is the slight gap between the center stone & the halo (some people like that, others don't). But I'm not sure soxfan realized that those color photos (not of the wax/resin model) in your post #33 were of your center stone plopped into the showcase setting that had the halo head closest in dimensions to your stone.

Aahhh, yes, there will definitely not be a gap. You are correct in that IDJ simply found a close match from their display set and added the center stone to give me an idea of what it would look like. I will reiterate to them for absolutely no gap

 

[The Stig]

Thank you everyone. I am deeply humbled and grateful for all the kind words of wisdom from everyone. I plan to heed all your points and communicate back to IDJ so we get this right. I also want to point out that the display model was based off their initial quote of 1.5k for the setting before I asked for PS quality. When I mentioned PS quality, IDJ said that for $500 more they would utilize their absolute best bench and pick the best stones, so I expect that the final product will be of higher quality and craftmanship than what you see in the pics - hopefully. I will be clear in communicating my expectations, and will post pics of the final product here before accepting delivery.

I am personally indifferent to an angle. What are the benefits to that?

 

[The Stig]

I don't mean to be debbie-downer here, but that halo is messy and the flow is poor. it should look like an unbroken frame. This looks like a lot of disconnected little stones - rough, not smooth, and it will be rough to the touch, too. Also, there is way too much gap between the top row of diamonds and the side row. Not only does it not look tight and smooth, it will catch everything and
Granted, this might not bother you, and your fiancee-to-be might not even notice. And your timeframe might be such that you feel you have no other option. But since you've said you don't want to ever upgrade and you want a ring that she can wear for many decades, this would be a disappointing setting with which to go.

This is exceptionally helpful. If you are okay, I would like to quote and send your write-up to IDJ so they know to deliver their A-game. I get to see the ring once cast and before stones are set, so I will reiterate this to them at that point. Also, VC is still an option if the folks here can convince me - I’m edging closer

 

[The Stig]

@The Stig - Is this what you’re after, except with a double sided pave halo and a donut with widened struts?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZMa6wbnWRA/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1mtv170w5w94r

This looks real good design wise, but if my eyes are not deceiving me the stones don’t seem to be flowing here either and looks rough. Right?

 

[LLJsmom]

Since you asked for continued opinions here it goes. For a halo I think you are doing too much managing. For the quality that you seem to want, I am not feeling good about the direction this halo is headed. Victor or Steven Kirsch or probably DK can execute this with much more precision and excellence with very little input from you. If things go badly, at this point you’re just as culpable given your level of input that seems to be required. If you think the cost savings is worth the risk then go for it.

But even before you finalize any molds I would look through Victor’s thread to see examples of well executed halos.

 

[mrs-b]

This is exceptionally helpful. If you are okay, I would like to quote and send your write-up to IDJ so they know to deliver their A-game. I get to see the ring once cast and before stones are set, so I will reiterate this to them at that point. Also, VC is still an option if the folks here can convince me - I’m edging closer

Sorry - I'm not ok with that. I don't want my words cut and pasted verbatim from the internet and passed out to people I actually know and like. I would also be far more tactful talking to a jeweler about their own work than I am talking to a potential client; at the end of the day, it's not helpful to hurt anyone's feelings and I don't think that's how you get anyone to bring 'their A game'.

Feel free to put it into your own words and let IDJ know that these are the issues that concern you: smoothness (were you to run your finger along the top of it, it shouldn't catch on your finger or feel bumpy - which would indicate that the stones weren't all set at the exact same height); evenness of setting / angle for each of the melee; gaps between the upwards facing halo and the sideways facing halo or gaps between the individual stones; general neatness and uniformity. I do think you're a bit hampered by your own time line, and a well done halo is not an easy piece to make, but hopefully IDJ can meet your expectations.

When you look at a setting with poorly set pave, an inexperienced eye may be unable to identify the specific problems. But even for an inexperienced jewelry buyer, if you were to hold a poorly made pave setting and a well made pave setting in your hand, you'd know right away which one was better. You might not be able to identify exactly why one looked better than the other, but you'd know that one did.

I hope this project goes beautifully for you and that there are no issues of any kind.

ETA I agree with LLJsmom that it would be a good use of your time to spend a while looking through Victor's site to get your eye used to how well-set pave looks. You won't do better than Victor's site for examples of this. But don't expect Victor's level of workmanship from every jeweler; his work is exceptional for a reason and most benches are unable to reproduce it.

 

[lovedogs]

I am a clear minority here, but just want to say I actually think the example setting looks nice. Of course it doesn't look finished bc your stone was placed there, and it isn't as smooth or perfect as if this was a "PS quality" setting, but overall I think it looks good. I think especially if you ask IDJ to use their best bench and explain that you want everything as "tight" and "uniform" as possible (e.g. paraphrasing what others have said), you'll end up with something wonderful for a reasonable price.

I have always admired VCs work, so this certainly isn't to say you shouldn't work w. him if you can afford it, but I also hope you don't feel pressured to spend more than you can afford for fear that there will be something wrong with the IDJ setting.

 

[PintoBean]

Picky perfectionist Frankiextah has had IDJ execute halo for her friend under her guidance and it came out great.
EC in halo for a friend

Right now everyone seems to be comparing IDJ cad cast with VC handforged. If OP wants handforged then he should get a handforged quote from IDJ.

 

[LLJsmom]

This is exceptionally helpful. If you are okay, I would like to quote and send your write-up to IDJ so they know to deliver their A-game. I get to see the ring once cast and before stones are set, so I will reiterate this to them at that point. Also, VC is still an option if the folks here can convince me - I’m edging closer

Dearest @The Stig , please do not be offended by what I am going to say. If your cutting and pasting our comments to share with IDJ to motivate them to “bring their A game” would actually be effective to get you the VC quality you seem to want from them I would actually not be opposed. But IMHO, it doesn’t matter what kind of “motivation” you use. Motivation is not relevant. They simply do not have the skills to create a three-sided halo of a quality you would get from VC. Your comment truly made me chuckle because you just aren’t informed enough. Another $500 is not going to get you there. Promises to keep fixing it until you are happy are not going to get you there. Inherently there is no problem with working with IDJ as long as you are realistic about what you expect. This is not to say that in the end you may be quite satisfied with IDJ. Maybe it will turn out that you are not as picky as you thought you were. Also, you have never seen a VC halo in real life so you may be just as happy with an IDJ halo. You know the saying. You can’t miss what you never had.

 

[mrs-b]

I just spent some time going through IDJ's instagram.

There are a lot of nice pieces there. i think it comes down to how picky you are. Also, your time frame does not allow for this to be re-made if you're not entirely happy.

A lot of people refuse to go the custom route and this is why. No matter who you go with, there's always a degree of 'it's a crap shoot' about it.

I really wish you the best of luck.

 

[The Stig]

Sorry - I'm not ok with that. I don't want my words cut and pasted verbatim from the internet and passed out to people I actually know and like. I would also be far more tactful talking to a jeweler about their own work than I am talking to a potential client; at the end of the day, it's not helpful to hurt anyone's feelings and I don't think that's how you get anyone to bring 'their A game'.

Feel free to put it into your own words and let IDJ know that these are the issues that concern you: smoothness (were you to run your finger along the top of it, it shouldn't catch on your finger or feel bumpy - which would indicate that the stones weren't all set at the exact same height); evenness of setting / angle for each of the melee; gaps between the upwards facing halo and the sideways facing halo or gaps between the individual stones; general neatness and uniformity. I do think you're a bit hampered by your own time line, and a well done halo is not an easy piece to make, but hopefully IDJ can meet your expectations.

When you look at a setting with poorly set pave, an inexperienced eye may be unable to identify the specific problems. But even for an inexperienced jewelry buyer, if you were to hold a poorly made pave setting and a well made pave setting in your hand, you'd know right away which one was better. You might not be able to identify exactly why one looked better than the other, but you'd know that one did.

I hope this project goes beautifully for you and that there are no issues of any kind.

ETA I agree with LLJsmom that it would be a good use of your time to spend a while looking through Victor's site to get your eye used to how well-set pave looks. You won't do better than Victor's site for examples of this. But don't expect Victor's level of workmanship from every jeweler; his work is exceptional for a reason and most benches are unable to reproduce it.

Very fair comment. Last thing I want to do is offend anyone. I promise not to quote you and will massage the messaging so that they understand my concerns. I really do appreciate your help.

 

[The Stig]

Dearest @The Stig , please do not be offended by what I am going to say. If your cutting and pasting our comments to share with IDJ to motivate them to “bring their A game” would actually be effective to get you the VC quality you seem to want from them I would actually not be opposed. But IMHO, it doesn’t matter what kind of “motivation” you use. Motivation is not relevant. They simply do not have the skills to create a three-sided halo of a quality you would get from VC. Your comment truly made me chuckle because you just aren’t informed enough. Another $500 is not going to get you there. Promises to keep fixing it until you are happy are not going to get you there. Inherently there is no problem with working with IDJ as long as you are realistic about what you expect. This is not to say that in the end you may be quite satisfied with IDJ. Maybe it will turn out that you are not as picky as you thought you were. Also, you have never seen a VC halo in real life so you may be just as happy with an IDJ halo. You know the saying. You can’t miss what you never had.

No offense taken at all. I appreciate the tough love and honesty. I want to be clear that I am not looking to motivate them at all. Poor choice of words on my end. Rather I just want them to fully understand my expectations and make sure that the concerns noted with the display settings are mitigated. IDJ have been nothing short of amazing so far, and besides a few negative threads and critism of the display setting as noted above, I really do feel good about them being able to deliver and meet expectations. I think it’s important to lay out all the concerns on the table upfront, and if they feel they can’t deliver, then I’d rather give them the opportunity to lay that out. Then it is on me to decide whether to accept the risks or move on. I see it less about motivating them, and more trying to make sure that my expectations have been communicated and is understood by all parties. Same as my boss giving me a project and then communicating his expectations from me. Understanding this then helps me ensuring that I can meet and exceed those expectations. If those expectations are unrealistic, then I can communicate that to him so that he has all the data points he needs to decide on next steps.

 

[LLJsmom]

Dearest @The Stig , please do not be offended by what I am going to say. If your cutting and pasting our comments to share with IDJ to motivate them to “bring their A game” would actually be effective to get you the VC quality you seem to want from them I would actually not be opposed. But IMHO, it doesn’t matter what kind of “motivation” you use. Motivation is not relevant. They simply do not have the skills to create a three-sided halo of a quality you would get from VC. Your comment truly made me chuckle because you just aren’t informed enough. Another $500 is not going to get you there. Promises to keep fixing it until you are happy are not going to get you there. Inherently there is no problem with working with IDJ as long as you are realistic about what you expect. This is not to say that in the end you WON'T may be quite satisfied with IDJ. Maybe it will turn out that you are not as picky as you thought you were. Also, you have never seen a VC halo in real life so you may be just as happy with an IDJ halo. You know the saying. You can’t miss what you never had.

I'm trying to correct my sentence. I left out a key word above. I am trying to say that it's possible you WILL be very happy with IDJ. Sorry if I was confusing. Good luck!

 

[The Stig]

I just spent some time going through IDJ's instagram.

There are a lot of nice pieces there. i think it comes down to how picky you are. Also, your time frame does not allow for this to be re-made if you're not entirely happy.

A lot of people refuse to go the custom route and this is why. No matter who you go with, there's always a degree of 'it's a crap shoot' about it.

I really wish you the best of luck.

Thank you. Yeah the pickyness in me keeps going backwards and forward. On the one hand I know my girlfriend is the least picky person you can find, and would yell at me if I spent an extra 1500 - 2000k just to get it close to perfect. Just to give you an idea, this was the setting she picked out and gave to her BFF. I know a VC hand forged setting versus a cheaper cast one is going to be completely lost on her.

https://www.brilliantearth.com/Wave...ite-Gold-BE1D64-3957961/?did=5117385&is_tab=1

The issue really is me here and me wanting to this to be as perfect as it can be. Why, because she deserves nothing less in my opinion. It’s a tough choice.