Help needed - how thin should platinum shank with Halo setting be for 1.9 carot cushion stone

[The Stig]

Dear family, I am designing a platinum halo setting for a 1.94 carot cushion cut center stone. Nothing too elaborate, just a a single row halo. The jewelers currently have the CAD model at around 1.9mm for the shank and 2mm for the halo. My lady’s finger size is 5 and a quarter and we are looking for a delicate look. I want to go thinner to 1.5 or 1.7mm but the jeweler is recommending thicker to maintain intergrity of the setting. What do y’all recommend for an optimal delicate look on both the ring and the halo?

Very much appreciate any advice. Thank you all

 

[BlingDreams]

It’s generally accepted that you don’t want to go thinner than 2mm for structural/stability reasons.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Noooo to 1.5-1.7mm, you have a very good jeweler who is telling you the truth! 1.9-2mm IS delicate! His/her measurements sound fine!

 

[kindred]

Your jeweler is giving you good advise. You might be interested in this thread:

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/are-rings-too-thin-these-days.155780/

 

[mrs-b]

Stig - just let me sort you out on this detail - it's carat, not carot. You can say ct for short.

Knowledge is power!

 

[Kaycee2018]

I went slightly thinner than advised with a 1.8 mm shank for my 1.85 ct solitaire (see my avatar); however, my rings come off for anything strenuous (gym, garden, household chores, etc.). Basically I only wear them to work (office) and when going out for normal activities. 1.9 mm will be plenty delicate though and should look lovely with a halo-ed 1.94 ct cushion center stone.

 

[JPie]

I'm a huge fan of delicate bands. It takes a skilled jeweler to execute it well, and the band should be made deeper to give it structural integrity.

For example, my engagement ring is 1mm wide and 2mm deep. Granted, this isn't a pave ring, but my point is that it's absolutely possible to go thinner than 2mm without issues. The inner circumference is at 1mm but the exterior thins into an extreme knife edge with milgrain. I've worn it for three years, almost daily, without any problems. Click on photos to enlarge:


To answer your question, I think 1.8mm would achieve the delicate look you want for a 5.25 finger, but your jeweler must be damn skilled; a lifetime warranty wouldn't hurt either.

 

[soxfan]

Editing my post. I read "who do you all recommend" instead of "what do you all recommend..."

I think 1.9 is fine IF the jeweler is very skilled. I'd only choose certain vendors for a 1.9 mm shank. For example, I've never heard of anyone having trouble with VC's emilya halo setting and that is 1.8 mm-2mm. I think mine was about 1.9 mm.

Also, how hard do you think she will be on her rings? Will she wear it 24/7 or will she take it off for most activities. That is probably what you want to think about the most. My rings are very dainty, but my 5 stone has more heft on the shank because I knew I wanted a ring I could wear 24/7 if I wanted to.

I think if she will wear it all the time, I'd go for a 2mm shank.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I was thinking he was meaning a pave shank, and Victor has said before, you need at least 1.8mm for a structurally sound pave shank, and he was speaking of hand forged.

 

[JPie]

I was thinking he was meaning a pave shank, and Victor has said before, you need at least 1.8mm for a structurally sound pave shank, and he was speaking of hand forged.

I think I've read that Leon Mege will go down to a 1.5mm for a pave shank.

In any case, I think you and soxfan are right about going the hand-forged route for something this delicate. I had a POS 2mm thick setting made by Trabert Goldsmiths that warped.

 

[soxfan]

I was thinking he was meaning a pave shank, and Victor has said before, you need at least 1.8mm for a structurally sound pave shank, and he was speaking of hand forged.

He is using IDJ I believe. So I don't think it's going to be hand-forged? OP, is the shank going to be pave or just platinum?

 

[Bron357]

If you want a diamond set shank it needs to be wide enough and deep enough to securely set the diamonds. Too thin, not enough support and diamonds can “pop out”. If you’re going for a plain shank you can create a thinner look by going for a “knife edge” shank but again the ring needs to be deeper to offset the “thinness”. It will look thin looking down, but side on there will be more substance. You can also get the ring made so it looks thinner on the shoulders (what you see) but the underneath side can be thicker and more substantial.

 

[soxfan]

If you want a diamond set shank it needs to be wide enough and deep enough to securely set the diamonds. Too thin, not enough support and diamonds can “pop out”. If you’re going for a plain shank you can create a thinner look by going for a “knife edge” shank but again the ring needs to be deeper to offset the “thinness”. It will look thin looking down, but side on there will be more substance. You can also get the ring made so it looks thinner on the shoulders (what you see) but the underneath side can be thicker and more substantial.

Yes. A cathedral shank is a good choice for that!

 

[The Stig]

Thank you everyone. The advice is fantastic, such a great and helpful community! I have shopped around quite a bit, and got quotes from VC, DK, BE, Leon, GOG, Designs by Kamni, Leon M, Diamonds by Lauren and Eternitybyyoni. My final three were VC, BE, and IDJ (where I got the stone). I am going to roll the dice and go with IDJ seeing how honest and great they have been to me. It is CAD, and I know they aren’t known for custom settings, but this hand forged angle is making me pause. VC is going to cost double what IDJ quoted me, not to say an extra 2k should be a factor on a 15k ring if it makes that much of a difference. In IDJ I trust.... unless the community feel strongly I should go hand forged .... oh dear

 

[The Stig]

Stig - just let me sort you out on this detail - it's carat, not carot. You can say ct for short.

Knowledge is power!

Indeed, I promise I know a billion times more about cars than diamonds. Only been in the diamond business for 2 months, but seeing I landed on PS and have been talking to the likes of IDJ, DK, VC and BE, I think I’m doing better than 99% of the STIG wannabe’s huh?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

There's a current thread you might want to see:

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/idj-custom-dbl-halo-earrings.242404/page-2#post-4401822

I'd suggest David Klass for similar pricing and generall good quality. Victor's work is worth double IF you can comfortably pay for it. BE falls somewhere in the middle, maybe, but I'd go with DK if he is a lot less, and I'd go with Victor if BE is not too much less.

 

[LLJsmom]

Thank you everyone. The advice is fantastic, such a great and helpful community! I have shopped around quite a bit, and got quotes from VC, DK, BE, Leon, GOG, Designs by Kamni, Leon M, Diamonds by Lauren and Eternitybyyoni. My final three were VC, BE, and IDJ (where I got the stone). I am going to roll the dice and go with IDJ seeing how honest and great they have been to me. It is CAD, and I know they aren’t known for custom settings, but this hand forged angle is making me pause. VC is going to cost double what IDJ quoted me, not to say an extra 2k should be a factor on a 15k ring if it makes that much of a difference. In IDJ I trust.... unless the community feel strongly I should go hand forged .... oh dear

I think it totally just depends on the quality of the halo you want. Of the vendors above that make halos, I would prefer Victor’s halo above others. If you have read everything on PS about Victor Canera and are thus fully informed and are choosing IDJ, I think you are probably making he best decision for you. IMHO, the people who should choose VC for a ring are those who are just very picky and want the highest quality of work and want a halo the way Victor makes it. If you decide to go with IDJ, you will get a very pretty ring for what you are paying. And if you aren’t anal about specific features about a halo, you should be very happy with your ring.

 

[mrs-b]

There's a current thread you might want to see:

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/idj-custom-dbl-halo-earrings.242404/page-2#post-4401822

I'd suggest David Klass for similar pricing and generall good quality. Victor's work is worth double IF you can comfortably pay for it. BE falls somewhere in the middle, maybe, but I'd go with DK if he is a lot less, and I'd go with Victor if BE is not too much less.

@diamondseeker2006 -

I really don't believe that to be the case at this point. I've spent considerable time in both VC's store and in DKJ's store, and I think the workmanship on the halo of my new ring is without doubt comparable. The bench who set my halo also works for a VERY high end name, and his skill shows in his work.

This is just an FYI.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

@mrs-b I absolutely agree that your ring is top notch! I should have clarified that the cost difference is due to VC being hand forged which is more time consuming and 100% hand fabricated. However, I will say that my CVB rings are mostly cast and also have top notch design and workmanship, and I am totally happy with the level of workmanship. We are both particular, so I think our choices do confirm our satisfaction with quality.

So let me revise this to say, I think he should go with DK for high quality and competitive pricing unless he just has a desire for a VC setting (which it doesn't sound like he does).

 

[mrs-b]

@mrs-b I absolutely agree that your ring is top notch! I should have clarified that the cost difference is due to VC being hand forged which is more time consuming and 100% hand fabricated. However, I will say that my CVB rings are mostly cast and also have top notch design and workmanship, and I am totally happy with the level of workmanship. We are both particular, so I think our choices do confirm our satisfaction with quality.

So let me revise this to say, I think he should go with DK for high quality and competitive pricing unless he just has a desire for a VC setting (which it doesn't sound like he does).

Aaaah, got it! I totally agree with this! Re cast work, I think DKJ's work has improved across the board in recent years, but there is still a range of benches. So if you want their best work, you have to request their best bench and be willing to accept the higher price. If you want to save a few bucks, let them know and they'll accommodate you. I believe they have 3 micro-pave specialists at this point, and I'd class their work as top notch.

And ditto your comments re CVB; her work is competitive with anyone's in my opinion.

 

[PintoBean]

If you want to go the handforged route, ask IDJ to quote that for you as well, since they do have access to a handforge bench

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I think I've read that Leon Mege will go down to a 1.5mm for a pave shank.

In any case, I think you and soxfan are right about going the hand-forged route for something this delicate. I had a POS 2mm thick setting made by Trabert Goldsmiths that warped.

Missed this! Yes, and we have seen problems reported here in the past on some of LM's ultra-thin settings. I am very surprised you had trouble with a 2mm shank from a TG! Yikes!

 

[JPie]

Missed this! Yes, and we have seen problems reported here in the past on some of LM's ultra-thin settings. I am very surprised you had trouble with a 2mm shank from a TG! Yikes!

I had a terrible experience with Trabert Goldsmiths many years ago. They gave me an initial quote of $3,000 with a five-week turnaround, and the actual cost was $3,700 after six months of BS. In between they tried to revise the estimate to $5,000, asked me to come in and view sketches but had nothing to show me when I arrived, made a mold that didn’t reflect our discussions, etc.

When the damn thing warped, I got it fixed and stopped wearing it until Kataoka made a new setting years later.

 

[mrs-b]

I had a terrible experience with Trabert Goldsmiths many years ago. They gave me an initial quote of $3,000 with a five-week turnaround, and the actual cost was $3,700 after six months of BS. In between they tried to revise the estimate to $5,000, asked me to come in and view sketches but had nothing to show me when I arrived, made a mold that didn’t reflect our discussions, etc.

When the damn thing warped, I got it fixed and stopped wearing it until Kataoka made a new setting years later.

Good grief!!

 

[The Stig]

Thanks all. I am definitely itching to pay the extra cash and go with VC. My lady is very modest, and the finer things in life are not priority for her. Therefore I am pretty sure the perfection in craftmenship wont be important to her at all, and probably not even noticible. To give you an idea, her parameters (as communicated to her friend) was a J color, 0.75 carat stone. I’m getting her G color, 1.94 carat. She is a special girl, and deserves the best. It’s also important to me. I also view this as a ring she needs to wear for many many decades, so that’s why I am inclined to fork out the extra cash. On the other hand, I also think she would kill me i when she finds out I spent an extra 1.5 to 2k extra on the ring to get that better craftmenship. I agree that DK would be the best fit, however, he just hasn’t been responsive. He never returned 2 of my first calls, and although he was very responsive when I e-mailed him a few weeks ago, it’s been taking a week on average for him to repond to follow-up questions. I.e. it’s been over a week since he indicated he would send over some designs. I do appreciate that Amy was out sick. I also don’t have much time until the proposal in Oct, so DK has effectively ruled himself out. It would probably work out if we agreed on designs this week and shipped off the stone to him this week, but the lag in response time would make me super anxious, so although I know he would do an amazing job, I just don’t think he is the right fit for me currently. IDJ respond to me within minutes of each query. I also feel confident they would keep fixing it if something doesn’t look right to me. It also helps that I work a few blocks from their premises. At this point, think I will roll the dice with IDJ, examine the finished piece with a tooth comb, and push back until it’s perfect to my eyes.

BE’s quote was similar to VCs, just a few hundred dollars shy, so would definitely go with VC over them.

Thanks a million for all the advice. I wish things had worked out with DK, but my gut tells me I can trust IDJ.

 

[mrs-b]

@The Stig - DKJ jas been closed for the last 2 weeks, and David was traveling for the 2 weeks before that. Try calling now and leaving a message letting them know you've called before. I suspect you'll get an answer.

And PLEASE look at the thread @diamondseeker2006 posted about somebody's recent project with IDJ which involved pave and went seriously belly up.

And 1.94ct of G colored diamond will make a wonderful ring. It deserves the best setting you can put it in.

 

[BlingDreams]

@The Stig - DKJ jas been closed for the last 2 weeks, and David was traveling for the 2 weeks before that. Try calling now and leaving a message letting them know you've called before. I suspect you'll get an answer.

And PLEASE look at the thread @diamondseeker2006 posted about somebody's recent project with IDJ which involved pave and went seriously belly up.

And 1.94ct of G colored diamond will make a wonderful ring. It deserves the best setting you can put it in.

I agree that DK would probably do a great job. But let’s be fair to IDJ too. There are plenty of people on here who have had very successful projects using them. Plus, the earrings in question were a from scratch custom design with very particular desires, so quite complicated for most jewelers anyway. Many people on here have had similar issues with CvB, DK, and other commonly recommended designers who just couldn’t get the design right to their satisfaction for whatever reason. Given that this is a fairly common pave ring which can be seen numerous times on IDJ’s Instagram account, and especially given that @The Stig has said he wants to use IDJ, let’s help him through that process as best we can.

 

[The Stig]

@The Stig - DKJ jas been closed for the last 2 weeks, and David was traveling for the 2 weeks before that. Try calling now and leaving a message letting them know you've called before. I suspect you'll get an answer.

And PLEASE look at the thread @diamondseeker2006 posted about somebody's recent project with IDJ which involved pave and went seriously belly up.

And 1.94ct of G colored diamond will make a wonderful ring. It deserves the best setting you can put it in.

I actually 100% agree with you that the diamond deserves the best setting. Can’t argue with that at all. I wouldn’t have posted on this forum if I didn’t want advice from more knowledgeable posters, so I appreciate the tough love and dissenting opinions. Please keep em coming, even if they are harsh. I need to hear this and then weight the pros and cons when making my decision, and I promise that I am giving serious thought and consideration to your points.

I heard DJK has been closed, but David himself e-mailed me just last week Monday and the week before that. Also, I have to have the ring in hand by the 1st week of Oct, and David indicated it would take 35 days to make. It would be very tight at this point. If we could have agreed on designs by now, then I would have given stronger consideration to using him. My gut is also telling me not to take the chance with him at this point.

I promise I have read the negative IDJ threads, especially the recent one, and weight it into my decision. I also strongly weight into account the experience I have had to date dealing with them, and my gut tells me that if the ring comes out not to my liking then they will make it right. A lot of thinking and weighing up pros and cons.

Keep the opinions coming guys.

 

[mrs-b]

@ILikeShiny - I didn't read that the OP had decided on IDJ till after I posted - but thanks for pointing that out. I had thought he was still weighing his options. But I still stand by what I said. Many people have had great experiences with IDJ (including myself) but, from what I've seen, it tends to be with a specific bench. I had a great experience with him some years ago. But it's worth checking to see if the same bench is still there. And OP needs to be aware of bad experiences as well as the good.

@The Stig - yes, I know David was still emailing some people. Since the store was closed, it speaks to what great service they give. Their CAD designer, however, was on vacation I believe, so there you go. Everyone needs a break from time to time.

Anyway, if you've decided to go with IDJ I hope you have a wonderful experience and get a setting you love.

 

[BlingDreams]

@ILikeShiny - I didn't read that the OP had decided on IDJ till after I posted - but thanks for pointing that out. I had thought he was still weighing his options. But I still stand by what I said. Many people have had great experiences with IDJ (including myself) but, from what I've seen, it tends to be with a specific bench. I had a great experience with him some years ago. But it's worth checking to see if the same bench is still there. And OP needs to be aware of bad experiences as well as the good.

I completely agree with all of this. I’m glad the experience of the earrings was shared, as we should hear about when things don’t go well with any vendor. It’s how they handle the problems that speaks volumes, and I was glad to see that Yekutiel did what he could on the customer service front. Great advice to @The Stig to inquire about the bench being used, and asking for his uber bench if there is one (I know very little about this aspect of assembling and if most/all jewelers have “tiered” benches).

I’m sure we’re all looking forward to seeing the final product and hearing about the proposal (and how blown away she’ll be with a diamond double the size she’s hoping for!)