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lovedogs

Super_Ideal_Rock
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The thing about Hanadama and Tennyo is… Well first - those two designations are for akoya only. There’s no such thing as a “Hanadama South Sea” (PSL will grade non-akoya but the nomenclature is different). And an akoya pearl/pair/strand is only Hanadama if it has a certificate from PSL stating that it has earned the Hanadama designation. Same for Tennyo.

There are some vendors selling
“Hanadama akoya” and “Tennyo akoya” with alternate reports, or with no report. That’s BS - if a pearl/pair/strand doesn’t have the PSL report then it doesn’t get the name. Regardless of quality.


PSL offers reports in two languages: English and Japanese.

If you choose the English language, the only report available for akoya is the Hanadama report. So if you submit your akoya and specify that you want your report in English, your pearl either gets a Hanadama report and earns the Hanadama name, or it doesn’t and it gets no report.

If you choose Japanese there are two reports available for akoya - Hanadama and Tennyo. A meh pearl will get no report, a nice pearl will earn the Hanadama designation, and a really nice pearl will earn the Tennyo designation. This upgrade from Hanadama to Tennyo is automatically and it’s not a separate cost - a really nice pearl will get a Tennyo report and earn the Tennyo name but will not get a Hanadama report as well.

Remember how I said that a pearl/pair/strand is only Hanadama or Tennyo if it has a report stating as such? So
  1. You can have an akoya that’s Hanadama only. If the Hanadama report was requested in English, this pearl could actually be Tennyo quality, but finding out would require buying an additional report in Japanese.
  2. You can have an akoya that’s Tennyo only. Since the Tennyo report is an upgrade from Hanadama when you choose the Japanese language, this pearl is necessarily “of Hanadama quality”, but you probably can’t strictly call it Hanadama because it doesn’t actually have a PSL Hanadama report - it’s only got a PSL Tennyo report. But this is a degree of pedantic that even Yssie Stuffy Supreme wouldn’t get bent out of shape over.
  3. You can have an akoya that’s technically both Hanadama and Tennyo, if say you got an English Hanadama report and decided to recertify in Japanese and this time it earned the Tennyo report. No clue why anyone would actually ever do this though.


Okay so that’s the PSL report situation. But most of us - what we really care about is quality. Not nomenclature on a report. Thing is, most of Japan also cares about quality more than nomenclature on a report!

Other websites and forums will say that Hanadama akoya are the best akoya there can ever be, or that Tennyo akoya are the best akoya there can ever be. I can say with 100% certainty that they’re all wrong: This is a massive oversimplification - so massively oversimplified that it’s flat out false.

PSL for pearls is not like GIA for diamonds. GIA is a trusted independent diamond grading authority whose expertise is world renown. PSL doesn’t command that anywhere close to sort of respect - not in Japan, not amongst East Asian buyers.

The Western pearl boutiques do market PSL as a standard grading authority. For two reasons: First, because there’s literally nothing else that’s close to independent, and second because Western markets don’t have the pearl know-how that East Asian markets do! East Asian akoya buyers don’t need reports to help them choose quality pearls - they can do that by eye and touch.

If a diamond in the US is being touted as high quality but is being sold without a GIA report (or AGS for certain niches), we know to assume that there’s something fishy going on with that stone. If a pearl/pair/strand in Japan is being touted as high quality and is being sold without a PSL report, well, that’s very normal!! Nothing fishy going on there. So there are lots of very high quality akoya that don’t have PSL paperwork.

So are Hanadama pearls the best, or Tennyo the bestest? No. Only pearls that were submitted to PSL get those designations.

And most of the nicest pearls stay in Japan. Or are earmarked for East Asian markets. And those buyers (or those buyers’ trusted agents) buy pearls by eyes and touch - they don’t care about PSL paperwork. So, actually, the truth is exactly the opposite of what all those other websites and blogs and forums claim - most of the nicest akoya aren’t Hanadama or Tennyo!! (But they would be if they were actually submitted to PSL!!)


Okay so back to Hanadama and Tennyo grading.

Hanadama is a range. The bottom of the Hanadama range - the minimum quality of pearl that will earn the Hanadama designation - is (should be) the same whether you request an English or Japanese report. Then, as I said earlier, the English Hanadama report covers all qualities from “minimum to earn Hanadama” to “the best that there ever can be”, whereas if you request the Japanese language at some point on the quality scale the akoya will be upgraded from Hanadama to Tennyo. Tennyo is intended to reflect the best of Hanadama. And of course Tennyo is also a range - which goes from “minimum to earn Tennyo” and “the best that there ever can be”.

To earn a Hanadama report akoya (a single pearl, pair, or a full strand)
  • Must be round in shape
  • Must have minimal blemishing
  • Must have good “Aurora” (test of iridescence) - this isn’t publicly quantified.
  • Must have good “Teri” (test of luster) - again, this isn’t publicly quantified.
  • Average nacre depth - from surface to nucleus - must be 0.4mm or greater. I’ve unfortunately not been successful in speaking with anyone from PSL to qualify precisely how they measure nacre thickness, but I’m assuming it’s similar in theory to GIA’s process which I outlined in this thread: https://www.pricescope.com/communit...and-uncerted-gem-quality.256212/#post-4858986
Here’s an article from PSL describing Tennyo. It doesn’t really say a lot, but it does explain that the single (like, only one) factor that determines whether akoya are upgraded from Hanadama to Tennyo is performance in the Teri analysis. To earn the Tennyo grade a minimum score of 90 out of 100 is required, but there’s zero public documentation explaining how that score is calculated in the first place so… ::SHRUG:: you can kinda see why people who’ve spent their lives with high quality pearls are skeptical of this whole thing.
http://www.sinjuken.co.jp/image/en.pdf

Here’s a really fantastic paper that explains reflection vs. scatter and how all those fancy images can be interpreted. Highly recommend anyone who’s interested gives this one a read!!

https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-021-94737-w


So… I feel like I’m meandering here… The reality for Western buyers looking for nice akoya is that the akoya supply chain generally keeps the best goods for East Asian buyers. The pearls that you buy off US-Based-Boutique-X that come with English Hanadama reports, those are usually some of the lowest-quality that could earn the Hanadama designation. Why? Because we Americans (and, yknow, Brits, etc) have a cultural #Thing for paperwork, and because historically we haven’t had any way to know any better, and because we haven’t known any better we haven’t had any appetite to pay for better! In other threads I’ve called these pearls “pre-certified with English Hanadama” - that’s just my attempt at descriptive verbiage, nothing official there!! That situation is changing of course. Now people like us PSers do know what amazing akoya can look like, and we’re becoming more willing to pay for that quality, and vendors who appreciate and enjoy serving those sorts of communities have appeared. Moline and Takahashi come first to mind because that’s who I buy from, I’m sure there are others!


Once an akoya pearl/pair/strand goes to PSL and earns either a Hanadama or Tennyo report, it’s now a Hanadama or Tennyo pearl/pair/strand. But you can send a strand to PSL any time - if you can figure out how to get it to the lab!! I’ve bought pearls called “gem grade” or “top quality” or whatever, without PSL report, and had them sent to PSL after purchase. Sometimes months after purchase. In other threads here on PS I make the distinction between “pre-certified with English Hanadama”, meaning that the vendor sells them to you with English Hanadama report ready to go, and “akoya that happen to have a Hanadama or Tennyo report” - that were specifically selected by expert eye and touch and were later sent to PSL. The former are pretty much guaranteed to be Hanadama at the lower end of the quality range. The latter might truly be some of the best that ever could be. You can’t assume that any pearls that come with PSL reports are examples of the best. They’re guaranteed to be pretty darn good, but the best? No. You also can’t assume that pearls that don’t have a PSL report are of lesser quality. They may be lesser quality, or they may not have been sent to PSL because they were initially earmarked for a market that doesn’t value PSL paperwork. This is where trusting your vendor is critical! In general a US or UK based vendor that has a grading scale that looks something like A, AA, AAA, Hanadama is a vendor whose best goods are pre-certified with English Hanadama, and you can assume that their AAA pearls aren’t going to be secret gemmies that weren’t sent to PSL ::)

In this pic strand #1 is a Hanadama strand that I bought pre-certified with English Hanadama report. #2 is a strand that I bought with Tennyo report. Strand #3 is a strand that I bought uncertified as “gem quality” from Andrew Moline, and he had it sent to PSL for me (I requested an English report), and it earned the Hanadama designation. Strand #3 is clearly of higher quality than both the other Hanadama and the Tennyo. Incontrovertible proof that a Tennyo strand isn’t necessarily the nicest there can be!! And also proof that the mere presence of a Tennyo report doesn’t mean that that pearl/pair/strand is automatically nicer than another pearl/pair/strand with an English Hanadama report. Of course as I wrote earlier this sort of comparison is pretty hokey because #3 would probably have earned the Tennyo designation had I requested a Japanese report. I didn’t understand the - let’s be generous and call them intricacies - of PSL grading at the time. I’ve not seen a situation where akoya with a Japanese Hanadama report are nicer than akoya with a Tennyo report - this should be impossible… But graders are human, I’m sure it’s happened. At the very least it should be very rare!!

As always you are sooooo knowledgable about Pearls! So when you look at the pic I posted on the last page of this thread that ForeKitty kindly translated, what differences do you see between the "hanadama" and "tennyo" strands? Haha I want to train my eyes to be like yours!
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
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The Tennyo strand has stronger iridescence (the strength of the soap bubble halo of colour), more iridescence colours (pink and green rather than primarily pink - you noted this already), sharper reflections (the outlines of arms and camera are clearer), and stronger contrast (the black camera is blacker, the light-skinned arms are lighter).

Most people lump sharper reflections and more contrast into one word - “luster”. I like to break them out separately because everyone I’ve ever met and talked to, whether or not they know anything about pearls, appreciates higher contrastiness much more than sharpness of reflection; I think that’s a human eyes thing. More on that here, ignore the side
drama -
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cant-decide-on-some-gss-pairs.269242/#post-5037018

The Tennyo strand pictured isn’t phenomenal - pearls aren’t terribly well matched in colour or “luster”.

what differences do you see between the "hanadama" and "tennyo" strands?
 
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lovedogs

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Messages
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Th
The Tennyo strand has stronger iridescence (the strength of the soap bubble halo of colour), more iridescence colours (pink and green rather than primarily pink - you noted this already), sharper reflections (the outlines of arms and camera are clearer), and stronger contrast (the black camera is blacker, the light-skinned arms are lighter).

Most people lump sharper reflections and more contrast into one word - “luster”. I like to break them out separately because everyone I’ve ever met and talked to, whether or not they know anything about pearls, appreciates higher contrastiness much more than sharpness of reflection; I think that’s a human eyes thing. More on that here, ignore the side
drama -
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cant-decide-on-some-gss-pairs.269242/#post-5037018

The Tennyo strand pictured isn’t phenomenal - pearls aren’t terribly well matched in colour or “luster”.

Thanks!!! I'd like to get 1-2 like the ones shown left, but clearly not a whole strand haha. Is Takahashi who I should ask? I want the iridescencs/rainbow reflections (not the more pure pink of the middle strand). But I dont care at all about matching since 1 would be fine.

Edit. When I'm talking about L vs R it's about the pic I posted, not the one yssie posted. Oops!
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Th

Thanks!!! I'd like to get 1-2 like the ones shown left, but clearly not a whole strand haha. Is Takahashi who I should ask? I want the iridescencs/rainbow reflections (not the more pure pink of the middle strand). But I dont care at all about matching since 1 would be fine.

Edit. When I'm talking about L vs R it's about the pic I posted, not the one yssie posted. Oops!

1-2 individual akoya?
Moline or Takahashi could easily manage that. As long as you’re not looking for like 10mm akoya :bigsmile:
 
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Cerulean

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The Tennyo strand has stronger iridescence (the strength of the soap bubble halo of colour), more iridescence colours (pink and green rather than primarily pink - you noted this already), sharper reflections (the outlines of arms and camera are clearer), and stronger contrast (the black camera is blacker, the light-skinned arms are lighter).

Most people lump sharper reflections and more contrast into one word - “luster”. I like to break them out separately because everyone I’ve ever met and talked to, whether or not they know anything about pearls, appreciates higher contrastiness much more than sharpness of reflection; I think that’s a human eyes thing. More on that here, ignore the side
drama -
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cant-decide-on-some-gss-pairs.269242/#post-5037018

The Tennyo strand pictured isn’t phenomenal - pearls aren’t terribly well matched in colour or “luster”.

I can attest that the difference in breaking out contrast vs sharpness is important.

I just compared two pairs - while both were great, one led on sharpness and the other contrast. It was actually the pair with a “bumpier” surface that had a sharper contrast, whereas the other pair had a perfectly smooth surface, like a mirror…lending themselves to sharpness, but not contrast.

I’m exaggerating the different as both pairs had high contrast and sharpness, but distinctly different personalities.
 

Niel

Super_Ideal_Rock
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I didn’t want to start a whole thread because they aren’t exciting and fancy like you ladies but I got these for Christmas - I like how they are large and unusual. I’m a larger woman (5’10” with broad shoulders) and I like how quirky they are. I may need more- they’ll need to be equally quirky (please ignore my dog hair I can’t be picky with sun photos this time of year ) 2D7B6454-7DD5-4A32-BEF5-ED41D9070CD5.jpeg A38AE03D-B54E-4F50-8BFD-8BE86A687021.jpeg
 

Beagles

Shiny_Rock
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Sep 20, 2017
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I didn’t want to start a whole thread because they aren’t exciting and fancy like you ladies but I got these for Christmas - I like how they are large and unusual. I’m a larger woman (5’10” with broad shoulders) and I like how quirky they are. I may need more- they’ll need to be equally quirky (please ignore my dog hair I can’t be picky with sun photos this time of year ) 2D7B6454-7DD5-4A32-BEF5-ED41D9070CD5.jpeg A38AE03D-B54E-4F50-8BFD-8BE86A687021.jpeg

So fun! I know you will enjoy wearing them.
 

Daisys and Diamonds

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Messages
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I didn’t want to start a whole thread because they aren’t exciting and fancy like you ladies but I got these for Christmas - I like how they are large and unusual. I’m a larger woman (5’10” with broad shoulders) and I like how quirky they are. I may need more- they’ll need to be equally quirky (please ignore my dog hair I can’t be picky with sun photos this time of year ) 2D7B6454-7DD5-4A32-BEF5-ED41D9070CD5.jpeg A38AE03D-B54E-4F50-8BFD-8BE86A687021.jpeg

they look perfect for brightening up winter:appl::appl::appl:
enjoy them in good health =)2
 

MMtwo

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Joined
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Messages
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I didn’t want to start a whole thread because they aren’t exciting and fancy like you ladies but I got these for Christmas - I like how they are large and unusual. I’m a larger woman (5’10” with broad shoulders) and I like how quirky they are. I may need more- they’ll need to be equally quirky (please ignore my dog hair I can’t be picky with sun photos this time of year ) 2D7B6454-7DD5-4A32-BEF5-ED41D9070CD5.jpeg A38AE03D-B54E-4F50-8BFD-8BE86A687021.jpeg

These are super cute and fun! I like them so much! I like that vendor too!.
 

Cerulean

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
5,077
I didn’t want to start a whole thread because they aren’t exciting and fancy like you ladies but I got these for Christmas - I like how they are large and unusual. I’m a larger woman (5’10” with broad shoulders) and I like how quirky they are. I may need more- they’ll need to be equally quirky (please ignore my dog hair I can’t be picky with sun photos this time of year ) 2D7B6454-7DD5-4A32-BEF5-ED41D9070CD5.jpeg A38AE03D-B54E-4F50-8BFD-8BE86A687021.jpeg

These are awesome! They don’t need to be “fancy” to be cool. I think we get caught up in a lot of ultra luxe items and can miss some really amazing pieces by focusing on price tag
 

Daisys and Diamonds

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Apr 30, 2019
Messages
22,502
I didn’t want to start a whole thread because they aren’t exciting and fancy like you ladies but I got these for Christmas - I like how they are large and unusual. I’m a larger woman (5’10” with broad shoulders) and I like how quirky they are. I may need more- they’ll need to be equally quirky (please ignore my dog hair I can’t be picky with sun photos this time of year ) 2D7B6454-7DD5-4A32-BEF5-ED41D9070CD5.jpeg A38AE03D-B54E-4F50-8BFD-8BE86A687021.jpeg

i should have said this before
they are excitting enough for their own thread !:appl::appl::appl:

i would hardly have a thread of my own if high value was a stipulation :lol-2:
and yours are much nicer than my fun strand =)2

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/im-going-to-buy-these-tomorrow.265250/

btw i would not usually go aganist the advice of the most revered of our PS pearl princesses
but ive defianatly had $200 worth of fun out of them, even if not a single person (not including PS of course) has ever said anything about them while i have had them on
 

Niel

Super_Ideal_Rock
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i should have said this before
they are excitting enough for their own thread !:appl::appl::appl:

i would hardly have a thread of my own if high value was a stipulation :lol-2:
and yours are much nicer than my fun strand =)2

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/im-going-to-buy-these-tomorrow.265250/

btw i would not usually go aganist the advice of the most revered of our PS pearl princesses
but ive defianatly had $200 worth of fun out of them, even if not a single person (not including PS of course) has ever said anything about them while i have had them on

Idk I wore mine to Christmas breakfast and my dad was dumbfounded by them lol. Sometimes someone knowing little about jewelry works in my favor.
 

MMtwo

Ideal_Rock
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Messages
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I’ve said it before but I’ll say it again. Those goldens look great on you @MMtwo.

Thank you! Funny, but working from home has changed my jewelry habits into the equivalent of sweatpants chic. My co-workers are super-casual t-shirt folks. Yesterday, it was so nice to enjoy the gold ss again. They always feel so special and warm.
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Adding my GSS too. Love them with certain colors.

47C92B33-1B4F-4D0D-BC88-97E02C78F070.jpeg

I will kick myself for a very long time for not picking a pair of these up for myself too!!! GORGEOUS on you and so perfect with your sweater - this look is an advertisement for a cozy autumn evening, with a fire going and hot apple cider :love:
 
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LLJsmom

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I’m really enjoying pearls right now. They’re a whole new world. To my eyes, they make such a statement yet are so elegant and understated.

These are my 2021 pink akoyas. I notice myself reaching for them when I am more neatly dressed (not leggings). And I love them on when I’m wearing my pink watch. And when they are very beautiful pearls I can see the sharp metallic ball-like reflection.

4E329E9E-198C-46D2-BE06-5BB0C0B5F80D.jpeg 84FED169-6997-4245-B79C-41A459DCBD08.jpeg
 

diamondyes

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I’m really enjoying pearls right now. They’re a whole new world. To my eyes, they make such a statement yet are so elegant and understated.

These are my 2021 pink akoyas. I notice myself reaching for them when I am more neatly dressed (not leggings). And I love them on when I’m wearing my pink watch. And when they are very beautiful pearls I can see the sharp metallic ball-like reflection.

4E329E9E-198C-46D2-BE06-5BB0C0B5F80D.jpeg 84FED169-6997-4245-B79C-41A459DCBD08.jpeg

Stunning! What size are those?
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
27,242
I’m really enjoying pearls right now. They’re a whole new world. To my eyes, they make such a statement yet are so elegant and understated.

These are my 2021 pink akoyas. I notice myself reaching for them when I am more neatly dressed (not leggings). And I love them on when I’m wearing my pink watch. And when they are very beautiful pearls I can see the sharp metallic ball-like reflection.

4E329E9E-198C-46D2-BE06-5BB0C0B5F80D.jpeg 84FED169-6997-4245-B79C-41A459DCBD08.jpeg
@adlgel is right - presence is the right word. They stand out on you. Not too big but also not too small. But I *know* those GSS are quite a bit bigger, so I’m struggling to understand how they can have such similar impact in your ears!!

I’m getting ready for work and I think I’ll wear my akoya studs today with a sweater. And leggings. :bigsmile:
 

LLJsmom

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@adlgel is right - presence is the right word. They stand out on you. Not too big but also not too small. But I *know* those GSS are quite a bit bigger, so I’m struggling to understand how they can have such similar impact in your ears!!

I’m getting ready for work and I think I’ll wear my akoya studs today with a sweater. And leggings. :bigsmile:

You my dear can rock any earrings in anything. Such is your lot in life…
 

MMtwo

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Messages
4,441
I’m really enjoying pearls right now. They’re a whole new world. To my eyes, they make such a statement yet are so elegant and understated.

These are my 2021 pink akoyas. I notice myself reaching for them when I am more neatly dressed (not leggings). And I love them on when I’m wearing my pink watch. And when they are very beautiful pearls I can see the sharp metallic ball-like reflection.

4E329E9E-198C-46D2-BE06-5BB0C0B5F80D.jpeg 84FED169-6997-4245-B79C-41A459DCBD08.jpeg

These are so elegant! I can see why you reach for them. They are wonderful.
 

ittypea

Rough_Rock
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Jan 29, 2016
Messages
49
753DE3AB-BD61-45E6-8C9C-D9709C942E25.jpeg I just want to share my little DIY fun - a few FW strands that I bought as stringing practice projects/gifts. Used .65mm silk, single string/tweezer method. Also featuring a 11mm FW cheapos to see how I like larger sizes before starting a dedicated new savings account for WSS :razz: DIY is so much fun!
 

Daisys and Diamonds

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
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Messages
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753DE3AB-BD61-45E6-8C9C-D9709C942E25.jpeg I just want to share my little DIY fun - a few FW strands that I bought as stringing practice projects/gifts. Used .65mm silk, single string/tweezer method. Also featuring a 11mm FW cheapos to see how I like larger sizes before starting a dedicated new savings account for WSS :razz: DIY is so much fun!

Well done
they look wonderful!
 
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