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Help Me Design Custom Stud Settings Please!

Tonks

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Dec 27, 2017
Messages
596
Mine are not quite as big stones as yours, but the settings may be of interest. They are between flat and martini—Melissa called them an umbrella setting. Earrings tend to flop on me, and these are comfortable when pushed up to my earlobe. They are eight prongs, and that, in retrospect, is the only thing I would change. It can be a bit tough to clean around the pavilion of the stone.

 

Fabfashion

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Mar 23, 2021
Messages
158
Ooh, how exciting! What beautiful stones. I can’t wait to see the finished project.

For inspiration: I think @yssie ’s Erika Winters studs are the most gorgeous settings ever. They are not six prong, but oh, the lines and the precision. Simply stunning.


That’s a beautiful setting.
 

DAF

Shiny_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 7, 2012
Messages
459
I'm currently having a pair of 4 ctw OECs from Alex Park set into a six prong Lotus setting. The first three pics are the original CAD, the fourth one illustrates the desired amount of metal showing from the top, so the setting will have to be shrunk down a little. He did also mention to me that I needed something with a wide base to stabilize the cup. I had my heart set on the lotus flower setting, so he flattened the bottom for me. I will also have the LaPousette backs on mine.

studs 1.jpg
 

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RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,753
Thank you, thank you, thank you everyone!!!!!!

This is why I love PriceScope so much, everyone willing to take the time to chime in with their experiences. Wonderful collective wisdom and everyone is very generous, thank you!

I've got some questions coming to several different folks in the next few posts...
 

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,753
@diamondseeker2006 and @donnabrsd

Your settings are lovely! I really like the swooping design of the sides. The lines are very elegant. Thanks for posting the pics.

Can you tell me about the base of your earrings? Is it a solid piece of metal, (solid as in one closed piece) or is it open metalwork? By any chance do you have an image of the base looking at it from the bottom side?

If it is open metalwork, does it make any kind of painful imprint or indentation in your earlobe if you put the back on tightly?

I've drawn arrows on where I'd like to see or understand better:

 underneath 2.55ctw H VS2 studs 2.jpg
 

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RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,753
I love the ACAs and I love the size on my small lobes. I went with the six prong “martini” on their website and asked for the diamonds to be set as low as possible. I got the la Pousette backs, which have been a learning curve, and I’m learning. ;-)

I am not sure if these are as low set as possible; I can’t imagine they would ordinarily be set any higher?

In real life, the prongs are basically invisible! Just at normal viewing distance at my bathroom sink, for example.

My studs don’t flop, but I have to push the backs very tight to keep them upright. At 1.324 ctw, I would not get these settings for a higher carat weight (for my lobes/piercings). The quality of the setting is beautiful, and I’m very happy with the diamonds themselves! The G color of the studs looks just fine to me with my E CBIs (although I can tell the difference, it doesn’t bother me).

Zoom is sort of blurred out, so I can’t really see much of them during the day... hah! I did order some bling dots to see if that might help the diamonds sit more upright without having to squeeze my lobes so tightly.

383C0229-1624-4ECB-9734-306A62668979.jpeg

Those look beautiful on you Kristintech! They are the perfect size for your ears. Very elegant.

While they are great on yours, I agree that the base might make my diamonds tip. But thanks for posting pics, they are lovely to see!

About La Pousette backs -- yes, they do take some getting accustomed to! If you are having a difficult time with gripping them, but like the general idea of how La Pousettes work, I recommend a variation called the Guardian II Comfort back. It is La Pousette in style, but the those little squeezy bits on the back have flanges that make them much more comfortable in your hands and easier to grip and maneuver.

 

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,753
Definitely recommend baskets! A flat-bottomed basket will help keep the stones sitting upright on your earlobe - without needing to drive the point of a martini into your piercing.

I don’t think eight prongs would be too many for your stones, but I do agree that if your aesthetic is minimal then eight might be a bit too prong-ey for your tastes.

How do you feel about plain baskets? Not necessarily these specific findings, but this general basket style.

Yssie,

Are flat bottom baskets usually open metal work or are they a solid piece of metal? If there are different kinds (closed and open) then do you know of any considerations when selecting one over the other? I would think the extra weight would be negligible, but what about mark making in the earlobe, or extra light being allowed into the diamond?
 

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,753
I have the 6 prong scallop setting from James Allen. They are the perfect balance between a basket setting and a martini. I find that basket settings hurt my earlobes because like you, I have thin earlobes and have to wear the backings really tight in order for the stud not to flop down. Martini settings tend to sink too far into my piercing, and I don’t want to stretch them out. The swoops cup design of my scallop stud setting is perfect....sits low and close to my lobe but doesn’t get swallowed by my lobe KWIM? And they are so comfortable that I can sleep in them. The don’t come with La Pousette backs, but I wear mine with a set of generic La-Pousette like backings that I ordered online.

D05775F7-B965-412E-9A7A-BA5AA7371463.jpeg

I love the swooping lines of yours, very feminine! And I'm glad to know they are comfortable too, that's so important!
 

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,753
D0A03056-894E-4C59-BF88-C5301AAC3A26.jpeg 7AA6BB53-5E57-4DBF-A778-7FA9B5B7A0DE.jpeg I have the mountings in the first image with screw backs...2.53ct total weight. Love them. A good friend has the style in the second image with 6.4ct total weight and they do not droop.

Thanks Rocks!

Love the minimal metal of these, they really let the diamonds speak for themselves.

Do you by any chance know who makes the settings in the second (bottom) photo? Are they stock settings or custom? If they don't tip on 6 ctw studs, then they certainly wouldn't tip on mine that are tiny in comparison!
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
57,270
@diamondseeker2006 Is there a reason you are going back to 4 prongs instead of the 6 prongs in your next upgrade?

When I get home in about an hour I can look at the base of those two settings and try to get a picture.

I do love the crown settings, but there’s something about that classic Tiffany 4 prong low basket that is very appealing to me. Both have nice wide bases which is great to help prevent drooping. A little circle base is not going to be as good. I don’t have current pricing yet, but the crown settings would be almost twice as much as the Sasha Primak pair. I’ve upgraded every 2-3 years always thinking it was my final pair! So I am hesitant to go for the more expensive settings at this point!
 

donnabrsd

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Nov 27, 2011
Messages
359
@diamondseeker2006 and @donnabrsd

Your settings are lovely! I really like the swooping design of the sides. The lines are very elegant. Thanks for posting the pics.

Can you tell me about the base of your earrings? Is it a solid piece of metal, (solid as in one closed piece) or is it open metalwork? By any chance do you have an image of the base looking at it from the bottom side?

If it is open metalwork, does it make any kind of painful imprint or indentation in your earlobe if you put the back on tightly?

I've drawn arrows on where I'd like to see or understand better:

 underneath 2.55ctw H VS2 studs 2.jpg
Attached is a photo of my base. No pain and no indention in earlobe. IMG_8805.jpeg
 

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,753
Attached is a photo of my base. No pain and no indention in earlobe. IMG_8805.jpeg

I love this setting! Thank you for the extra image and info regarding the base.

By any chance do you have a picture of it in your ear? (I'm sorry to keep asking for additional pics, but I do love your setting and may base mine on a combo of yours and Diamondseekers if you ladies are okay with me doing so.)
 
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RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,753
I just wanted to chime in and say that ALL the vendors I worked with on this project, HPD, Wolf and Whiteflash were absolute dreams to work with. Everyone did a stellar job.

Just because I want to reset these babies does NOT mean that there was anything wrong with how they were original set. The diamonds were set perfectly, and the vendors gave me EXACTLY the setting I asked for, and even jumped through hoops to get them set in time to meet a deadline. So I am 100% happy with everyone involved in my earring upgrade. A finer group of people could not be found!
 
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rocks

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Nov 13, 2003
Messages
813
Thanks Rocks!

Love the minimal metal of these, they really let the diamonds speak for themselves.

Do you by any chance know who makes the settings in the second (bottom) photo? Are they stock settings or custom? If they don't tip on 6 ctw studs, then they certainly wouldn't tip on mine that are tiny in comparison!

Hi,
Both styles were made by the same jeweler in NYC but he is not a pricescope vendor. Both styles are custom. Not an online guy. I’m sure any of the pricescope approved jewelers could do them.
 

donnabrsd

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Nov 27, 2011
Messages
359
I love this setting! Thank you for the extra image and info regarding the base.

By any chance do you have a picture of it in your ear? (I'm sorry to keep asking for additional pics, but I do love your setting and may base mine on a combo of yours and Diamondseekers if you ladies are okay with me doing so.)
Here's an old photo. I'll try to take another later. I am fine with a version similar or exactly like mine. I designed mine from a version by @yssie after asking permission. Her's were an 8-prong crown style and I had a mine made with 6-prongs and a few slight tweaks.

img_8597.jpg
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
57,270
Here's an old photo. I'll try to take another later. I am fine with a version similar or exactly like mine. I designed mine from a version by @yssie after asking permission. Her's were an 8-prong crown style and I had a mine made with 6-prongs and a few slight tweaks.

img_8597.jpg

Donna, I have a big favor to ask if you really don't mind us asking about your settings. Would you mind sending Vera Wages at WF an email ([email protected]), and tell her a couple of people are interested in crown studs settings like yours? Then if either RunningwithScissors or I contact them for a quote, we can tell our SAs to check with Vera on whose settings we are wanting a quote on? My new stones are so close to the size of yours that they possibly could even use the same CADs. I still may go with the low profile basket, but it never hurts to get quotes on two or three to compare prices. Thank you in advance if you have the time to do that!

For @RunningwithScissors , here is her SMTB thread:

 

donnabrsd

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Nov 27, 2011
Messages
359
Donna, I have a big favor to ask if you really don't mind us asking about your settings. Would you mind sending Vera Wages at WF an email ([email protected]), and tell her a couple of people are interested in crown studs settings like yours? Then if either RunningwithScissors or I contact them for a quote, we can tell our SAs to check with Vera on whose settings we are wanting a quote on? My new stones are so close to the size of yours that they possibly could even use the same CADs. I still may go with the low profile basket, but it never hurts to get quotes on two or three to compare prices. Thank you in advance if you have the time to do that!

For @RunningwithScissors , here is her SMTB thread:


I contacted Vera. I sent her my copy of the CADs and the date ordered to look them up for the both of you if needed. I've also attached my CADs here and glamour shots from WF. Screen Shot 2021-03-20 at 8.37.52 AM.png Screen Shot 2021-03-20 at 8.38.15 AM.png
 

Fabfashion

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Mar 23, 2021
Messages
158

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
May 11, 2009
Messages
538

munchee

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
551
What gorgeous stones and fabulous size!!! :love: :love: :love: :love: :love: I wish I could have been as smart as you rather than upgrading little bits at a time! But because I have had several pairs of studs, I know a lot about settings! :lol:

I am very much in favor of low profile settings with a flat base. I adore the classic Tiffany style 4 prong basket, and my last pair had custom crown settings made by Whiteflash. I'd say these are my two favorite choices for 4 or 6 prongs.

First, here are the 4 prong options that can be ordered, but not necessary to have custom made.

These are by Sasha Primak (special order from Whiteflash), and I've had a couple of pairs of these in platinum. I love them and may get them again.


WFaca1.61ctwSashaPrimaksettings.JPG

Then Stuller has a 4 prong lower profile setting than the standard one shown on the WF site. Here's the version with the Protektor post. It comes in 8mm which is likely what you'd need. I am asking WF if they can get these and if so, the price. These will be less than Sasha Primak.


StullerLowProfileStudsSettings.png


Next are the Whiteflash 6 prong custom crown settings (most expensive of the types). I am posting mine and @donnabrsd 's. Her stones were a little larger than mine, so you can get an idea how they look with stones in between the size of mine and yours. Hers had more straight prongs and mine were slightly curved.

WF6prongcrown.jpg

2.55ctw H VS2 studs 2.JPG

Obviously there are many other options, but I just wanted to show you my favorite classic designs that you could access easily! I think I am going back to 4 prong baskets this time. I can't wait to see what you choose!



Ughhh I wish I knew this setting before ordering mine!!!!!!! I’m afraid to thread jacked and I don’t want to open a new thread to discuss mine. But anyway, WF only offered me 2 settings, which is their 6prongs with donut which hurts me and stuller setting which I don’t like. That 2 last pictures looks so pretty!!!! I wish WF offered me that setting. I didn’t know they can make it like that.
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
57,270
Ughhh I wish I knew this setting before ordering mine!!!!!!! I’m afraid to thread jacked and I don’t want to open a new thread to discuss mine. But anyway, WF only offered me 2 settings, which is their 6prongs with donut which hurts me and stuller setting which I don’t like. That 2 last pictures looks so pretty!!!! I wish WF offered me that setting. I didn’t know they can make it like that.

Unfortunately those were custom so they wouldn't normally offer them. How long ago did you get your studs? Can they be returned?
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
22,080
Yssie,

Are flat bottom baskets usually open metal work or are they a solid piece of metal? If there are different kinds (closed and open) then do you know of any considerations when selecting one over the other? I would think the extra weight would be negligible, but what about mark making in the earlobe, or extra light being allowed into the diamond?
Mine are just like @donnabrsd ’s - open at the back except for a strip of metal in the middle, and the post attaches to the strip. I asked for an open back for easier cleaning, knocking a bit off the weight is a nice extra :))

No marks on the earlobe! You’d have to put the backs on really tight to create an indent, and the larger doughnut allows you to not have to do that. But also no light return benefits - skin + hair eats any extra empty space.
 
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