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Help Me Design Custom Stud Settings Please!

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,753
After a year of saving and planning, I now have two spectacular diamonds for stud earrings! They are a marriage of our beloved vendors, Whiteflash and HPD.

The diamonds are in temporary settings and I need your help in designing their forever settings pretty please!

The diamonds are: CBI 1.89 E VS1 and ACA 1.82 E VS1.

Temporary settings: 3 prong martini settings with la pousette-style backs. While I LOVED those settings for my previous 2 ctw studs, I do not like them at all for my 3.71 ctw studs. These temporary settings flop around in my ear, even when the back is pushed up firmly against my earlobe. My guess is that diamonds just shy of 2 cts are too deep for martini style and I'll need to design a basket setting with a large, flat base.

Does anyone have any designs that they've used and can share with me? I won't copy yours, I promise. I'd just like to have an idea to start with and then tweak it to suit my own aesthetic.

I want something with elegant lines, but minimal flourishes, just let the diamonds be the stars. I want the studs to have a low profile, to sit as low to my skin as possible (I don't want them raised out from my lobe too much.)

I like 6 prongs because I worry 4 prongs will give a square appearance, and 8 prongs will be too much metal on this size diamond.

Any other advice you can share would be appreciated. I'd love to see profile images of your studs!

Thank you!

CBI ACA Studs small.jpg
 
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KristinTech

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 7, 2013
Messages
1,790

Does this work? Looks like there are only three prongs, but the sides/base are not martini... fun project!

Edit: I’m sure your larger studs would need a larger and flatter “base” near the skin... maybe also jumbo backs instead of la Pousette? I am still learning how to use my La Pousettes—I’ve dropped them a couple of times, but thankfully not the diamonds!
 
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RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,753

Does this work? Looks like there are only three prongs, but the sides/base are not martini... fun project!

Edit: I’m sure your larger studs would need a larger and flatter “base” near the skin... maybe also jumbo backs instead of la Pousette? I am still learning how to use my La Pousettes—I’ve dropped them a couple of times, but thankfully not the diamonds!

Thanks Kristin! Those are lovely settings.

What type of setting did you select and how do you like it? Can you post a profile shot?
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
22,080
Definitely recommend baskets! A flat-bottomed basket will help keep the stones sitting upright on your earlobe - without needing to drive the point of a martini into your piercing.

I don’t think eight prongs would be too many for your stones, but I do agree that if your aesthetic is minimal then eight might be a bit too prong-ey for your tastes.

How do you feel about plain baskets? Not necessarily these specific findings, but this general basket style.
 

mjea

Shiny_Rock
Joined
May 31, 2010
Messages
191
I need to figure out how to get mine reset for a reasonable cost because I super hate these screw backs but here’s a photo my super plain 4 prong basket on 1.01ct each studs. Maybe whoever is setting yours can set the prongs as delicate split prongs or baby claw prongs to help with the finesse factor?
95B2CE8E-B727-41AD-AE1A-C35C3C6E1D14.jpeg
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
57,270
@RunningwithScissors, congratulations on your new diamond earrings! Mine are in a basket setting. I’d asked the jeweller if these were as low as was possible and he said yes as it was limited to the depth of the stone. Mine are 1.5 ct and 1.51 ct with 4 prongs basket style. Good luck and show us your forever setting once you decide.

29F70BD5-C6E9-417D-8828-6E32E5B29C5F.jpeg B56B5FFB-A40C-4413-961D-F11E7EEB98F7.jpeg

I really like your low profile baskets. Do you know who made them? Stuller or someone else?
 

MiniMinerva

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Mar 3, 2021
Messages
196
WOW, soooooo super excited for you! Those stones are legendary and look perfect together!!! Sorry that I’m not much help with settings — you are far, far ahead of me on the studs journey — but I’ll try to make up for it with vicarious excitement! Your preferences for settings (6-prong, low profile, minimalist but with attention to lines of design) sound similar to what I hope for someday so I’ll definitely try to look. But omg your huge Es! Thrilling to see studs this fabulous.
 

Fabfashion

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Mar 23, 2021
Messages
158
I need to figure out how to get mine reset for a reasonable cost because I super hate these screw backs but here’s a photo my super plain 4 prong basket on 1.01ct each studs. Maybe whoever is setting yours can set the prongs as delicate split prongs or baby claw prongs to help with the finesse factor?
95B2CE8E-B727-41AD-AE1A-C35C3C6E1D14.jpeg

I have a pair of 1.5 tcw that used to have screw backs. I hated them with a passion as my ears would be really sore after putting them on and taking them off. Now that I have my forever pair, I had my jeweller turned them into a dangling pair instead. I think yours would look great in martini setting.
 

Mreader

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 14, 2018
Messages
1,316
Beautiful earrings! I have 3 ctw and still have martinis but jumbo backs. That helps them not flop. I tested w 4 ctw czs bc one day I want 4ctw but the baskets made them stick out too far off the ear for me. So while they are temp settings have you tried jumbos?
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
57,270
After a year of saving and planning, I now have two spectacular diamonds for stud earrings! They are a marriage of our beloved vendors, Whiteflash and HPD.

The diamonds are in temporary settings and I need your help in designing their forever settings pretty please!

The diamonds are: CBI 1.89 E VS1 and ACA 1.82 E VS1.

Temporary settings: 3 prong martini settings with la pousette-style backs. While I LOVED those settings for my previous 2 ctw studs, I do not like them at all for my 3.71 ctw studs. These temporary settings flop around in my ear, even when the back is pushed up firmly against my earlobe. My guess is that diamonds just shy of 2 cts are too deep for martini style and I'll need to design a basket setting with a large, flat base.

Does anyone have any designs that they've used and can share with me? I won't copy yours, I promise. I'd just like to have an idea to start with and then tweak it to suit my own aesthetic.

I want something with elegant lines, but minimal flourishes, just let the diamonds be the stars. I want the studs to have a low profile, to sit as low to my skin as possible (I don't want them raised out from my lobe too much.)

I like 6 prongs because I worry 4 prongs will give a square appearance, and 8 prongs will be too much metal on this size diamond.

Any other advice you can share would be appreciated. I'd love to see profile images of your studs!

Thank you!

CBI ACA Studs small.jpg

What gorgeous stones and fabulous size!!! :love: :love: :love: :love: :love: I wish I could have been as smart as you rather than upgrading little bits at a time! But because I have had several pairs of studs, I know a lot about settings! :lol:

I am very much in favor of low profile settings with a flat base. I adore the classic Tiffany style 4 prong basket, and my last pair had custom crown settings made by Whiteflash. I'd say these are my two favorite choices for 4 or 6 prongs.

First, here are the 4 prong options that can be ordered, but not necessary to have custom made.

These are by Sasha Primak (special order from Whiteflash), and I've had a couple of pairs of these in platinum. I love them and may get them again.


WFaca1.61ctwSashaPrimaksettings.JPG

Then Stuller has a 4 prong lower profile setting than the standard one shown on the WF site. Here's the version with the Protektor post. It comes in 8mm which is likely what you'd need. I am asking WF if they can get these and if so, the price. These will be less than Sasha Primak.


StullerLowProfileStudsSettings.png


Next are the Whiteflash 6 prong custom crown settings (most expensive of the types). I am posting mine and @donnabrsd 's. Her stones were a little larger than mine, so you can get an idea how they look with stones in between the size of mine and yours. Hers had more straight prongs and mine were slightly curved.

WF6prongcrown.jpg

2.55ctw H VS2 studs 2.JPG

Obviously there are many other options, but I just wanted to show you my favorite classic designs that you could access easily! I think I am going back to 4 prong baskets this time. I can't wait to see what you choose!
 

Fabfashion

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Mar 23, 2021
Messages
158
One thing I forgot to mention is that my jeweller highly recommended La Pousette backing. He said they’re more secure especially for larger sized diamonds and because of the backing’s larger diameter it helps the earrings from flopping forward. I have a pair of Tiffany X earrings that come with La Pousette backing as well and they don’t flop either.

 

KristinTech

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 7, 2013
Messages
1,790
Thanks Kristin! Those are lovely settings.

What type of setting did you select and how do you like it? Can you post a profile shot?

I love the ACAs and I love the size on my small lobes. I went with the six prong “martini” on their website and asked for the diamonds to be set as low as possible. I got the la Pousette backs, which have been a learning curve, and I’m learning. ;-)

I am not sure if these are as low set as possible; I can’t imagine they would ordinarily be set any higher?

In real life, the prongs are basically invisible! Just at normal viewing distance at my bathroom sink, for example.

My studs don’t flop, but I have to push the backs very tight to keep them upright. At 1.324 ctw, I would not get these settings for a higher carat weight (for my lobes/piercings). The quality of the setting is beautiful, and I’m very happy with the diamonds themselves! The G color of the studs looks just fine to me with my E CBIs (although I can tell the difference, it doesn’t bother me).

Zoom is sort of blurred out, so I can’t really see much of them during the day... hah! I did order some bling dots to see if that might help the diamonds sit more upright without having to squeeze my lobes so tightly.

383C0229-1624-4ECB-9734-306A62668979.jpeg
 

KristinTech

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 7, 2013
Messages
1,790
(Natural nails by Nailtiques, which I discovered through PSers years ago, hah!). Geeze, the magnified photo!
 

donnabrsd

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Nov 27, 2011
Messages
359
Next are the Whiteflash 6 prong custom crown settings (most expensive of the types). I am posting mine and @donnabrsd 's. Her stones were a little larger than mine, so you can get an idea how they look with stones in between the size of mine and yours. Hers had more straight prongs and mine were slightly curved.

WF6prongcrown.jpg

2.55ctw H VS2 studs 2.JPG

I'm still very happy with mine. They look like a floating diamond just stuck to my ear and when I take them off, I see the lovely snoopiness of the crown setting. I have the extra large jumbo backs to prevent drooping. I recently ordered the same settings for my daughter-in-law with 1ctw diamonds.
 

donnabrsd

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Nov 27, 2011
Messages
359
Definitely recommend baskets! A flat-bottomed basket will help keep the stones sitting upright on your earlobe - without needing to drive the point of a martini into your piercing.

I agree with a flat-bottom basket. I was not a fan of the 6 prong martini settings with larger studs. I originally ordered them with 1.7 ct each earring and for them to lay flat, I had to push them deep in my ear and push the backing on tight.
 

m-2-b

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Mar 1, 2011
Messages
3,773
I ordered the 6 prong martini WF settings for my 4.8ctw ACA studs. I have had them for several years now (my studs are my daily staple earrings for work). I wear them with jumbo backs which help w/ any potential drooping issues.

I have had no issues with my piercings being stretched after all this time but I think that depends upon each person's experience/wear (apparently I have lobes of steel :))). I take my earrings out when I come home from work and do not sleep in them.

The crown type settings are beautiful as an alternative if you want a flat base instead.
 

SandyK

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Apr 9, 2016
Messages
433
For studs of your size I like something like the second option posted by @rocks , but maybe more substantial (like the first option posted by rocks). I also like the double claw prong suggestion, if you are open to something a little more different but still classic.

But, mainly just posting here to say that I have been DYING to see your new studs and I really think that everyone should be holding their advice hostage until we get to see the studs on your ears!!!!! :D :D :D

(Will contain the rest of my excitement until after you decide on the perfect settings and have a proper SMTB thread)
 

jaysonsmom

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Mar 13, 2004
Messages
3,959
I have the 6 prong scallop setting from James Allen. They are the perfect balance between a basket setting and a martini. I find that basket settings hurt my earlobes because like you, I have thin earlobes and have to wear the backings really tight in order for the stud not to flop down. Martini settings tend to sink too far into my piercing, and I don’t want to stretch them out. The swoops cup design of my scallop stud setting is perfect....sits low and close to my lobe but doesn’t get swallowed by my lobe KWIM? And they are so comfortable that I can sleep in them. The don’t come with La Pousette backs, but I wear mine with a set of generic La-Pousette like backings that I ordered online.

D05775F7-B965-412E-9A7A-BA5AA7371463.jpeg
 

Tonks

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Dec 27, 2017
Messages
596
Ooh, how exciting! What beautiful stones. I can’t wait to see the finished project.

For inspiration: I think @yssie ’s Erika Winters studs are the most gorgeous settings ever. They are not six prong, but oh, the lines and the precision. Simply stunning.

 
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