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OEC cut quality and finding a diamond with max fire

LightBright

Brilliant_Rock
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Hi dropsonde,
I liked all of your selections to tell you the truth! Here's where you will have to do some thinking and prioritization. Take some time to talk to your girlfriend about what she wants in a diamond cut. Does she gravitate to a certain old cut style? Would she prefer the look of a high (puffy) crown and smaller table of an OEC, does she want the rustic sometimes primitive look of an OMC or does she like the precision of a Transitional cut?

It might be helpful if you started out by describing the reason she is drawn to old cuts, her color/clarity/diameter size preferences, her setting preferences, what type of jewelry she wears, her lifestyle and stuff like that. Also, is there a specific reason that you chose CvB for a solitaire, or do you want more than a simple solitaire from Caysie?

In terms of the diamonds you've selected. When you visit Pricescope for advice you will likely hear from very experienced "thought leader" Pricescope users who have high technical standards for old cuts based on years of honing their preferences, likes and dislikes. So most users here will steer you towards a "Classic" form of an OEC and a "Classic" form of a Transitional. Unfortunately, in reality the Classic cut types (prized by Pricescope members) of the OEC and Transitional styles are rare in higher colors and clarities, and somewhat difficult to find in even low colors and clarities.

In general, you can often find the cut you want sooner and for a more affordable price if you go to a lower color or clarity. And conversely, if you flex on CUT by not having extremely high standards for symmetry etc, you will able to find a higher color or clarity. You need to decide your tolerances. What are your preferences?

What you will encounter most in your old cut diamond search is variation. Lots and lots of "variations on a theme". That's because there were hundreds of diamond cutters in the old days (European and American) each house or cutter cutting their own style of diamond. Old Cuts weren't standardized universally.

In my opinion, non-standard cuts all can be beautiful. But the reason you are seeing Fair symmetry and different table and crown sizes than what people here prefer is because the technically perfect stones are rarer, and are snapped up quickly or are very expensive. Some Pricescope people will hesitate to endorse non-Classic stones, mostly because it's difficult to to assess performance in non-standard stones.

I'm going to repeat myself here:
If you want optimal cut, symmetry and light return (basically a sure thing you don't have to think about because the cut is standardized) you can purchase a new old cut from GOG or Victor.

If you want technically perfect antique you will pay a premium and you will look a long time. Adam from Old World Diamonds has an inventory of very nice OEC cuts for which you will pay a premium. Grace of Jewels by Grace and Erica of Love Affair Diamonds have had Classic Transitionals and often have Classic OECs. But these vendors also have many variations of cuts, and I personally like these cuts, but they will not always have the specs you have been told to look for and to prioritize.

I liked the stones you found. They are all beautiful. The J looked very fiery and lively to me, but you need to be sure you are okay with a J color for an engagement ring. The G looked more like a Transitional cut, which means bright and white with that large table. I loved the high crown of the 1.34 G, and I thought the I had potential because of the small crown and pretty cut pattern.

If you are going to put the stone in a solitaire, you really need to get a standout stone that you both love. Aside from the inventories you found on-line at Love Affaire Diamonds and Jewels by Grace, have tried calling Adam at Old World Diamonds to see what he might have for you? His inventory is mostly not pictured on-line. He can provide photos and then overnight a stone to you very easily.

Please keep us posted!
 
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AnnaH

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OP, the attached is a jewelry store in Austin that would be worth a visit if you are nearby (Texas is a big state.)

http://abercrombiegems.com/jewelry/

You probably wouldn't find exactly what you want, but it would be a good education for you and lots of fun.
I once posted about trying on a million dollar ring there. I didn't buy anything, so that tells you how nice they are. It is Texas after all. Ha!
 

dropsonde

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Lightbright, thanks for yet another thoughtful response. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your perspective. Good stuff!

This thread has the background information about my girlfriend and her style. (And you'll see that I've come along on my journey here!) As an update to that thread, she has since come around that she prefers yellow gold over platinum when I asked her to reflect on that. Also should share that she has never bought (or owned) a diamond in her life -- she is just as new to this as I am so her tastes are far from developed or sophisticated. Just about everything she knows about diamonds is from what I've shared with her from my recent information quest here on Pricescope and other online research I've done.

She was happy with a basic solitaire when we initially looked at rings but I've gravitated towards CvB's Chloe mostly because it looks fantastic in yellow gold and has that vintage triple wire look to it. My girlfriend has been wearing a sapphire halo that was handed down from her grandmother and it is yellow gold with a delicate triple wire shank and I know she likes it a lot. I personally love the look of the Chloe and love its uniqueness. I haven't showed it to my girlfriend because I was hoping to at least keep one element of surprise in this process! But perhaps I should show her just to be on the safe side. Open to opinions on that.

When I describe OEC cuts to her, she's drawn to the appeal of owning a vintage Jazz Age diamond and the way they return light from their environment with color. She loves that fireball effect when I've showed her videos. And she likes the story about OECs and how they were cut compared to how contemporary MRBs are. Although perhaps I'm biasing her -- I'm sure she would be just as thrilled with a MRB.

But setting that aside for now, I think that light performance, which I'm assuming to mean cut, is most important to her. I'm sure she'd love to have something larger in size too. So I've always thought the compromise was in color/clarity. But you've made great points about color and I wouldn't want her to be unhappy down the road. I appreciate all your observations about cut -- they make complete sense. Perhaps I am kind of chasing a unicorn here. I don't have the budget to pay a premium for an optimal cut and you make a very good point that I'm sure I wouldn't be able to out-savvy a seasoned PSer to find one in the marketplace.

Thanks for your comments about the stones I linked to. You're definitely feeling my struggles with the trade-offs inherent in each stone. There probably isn't a "wrong" choice here and I'm overthinking it -- haha. Or maybe as Sagefemme suggested earlier in this thread I just need get three of them in-hand and compare side-by-side. I haven't tried calling Adam yet but will definitely reach out to him to see what he has in stock.
 

dropsonde

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OP, the attached is a jewelry store in Austin that would be worth a visit if you are nearby...

I'm in Houston but appreciate the suggestion. I get to Austin every few months so good to know that resource.
 

ChristineRose

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About cut grade--there's a line between an OEC and a "Poor" cut RB. Some stones with the poor cut grade can be quite attractive but it depends on too many factors to be able to buy one sight unseen.

GIA grades many stones that would be described as a "charming" OEC as a poor/fair/good RB. After a point the proportions drop out of the RB range and don't get a cut grade, just a note of the cut. Because of this most antique stones were sent to EGL, which dropped them from RB to fancy earlier. There was never a standard proportion back then, and they called them round brilliants, not "old" anything so even the use of "old" can be confusing.

Now EGL is pretty much dead, as their main purpose in life was to trick people into buying overgraded stones and you will stones on legit sites like JbEG being sold with poor/fair/good cut grades. The modern superideal OEC cuts are usually graded by AGS, which grades on light performance. GIA grades on proportions. (That's oversimplified, but the point is that you can be an AGS Ideal and a GIA poor, but if you are, you're probably a gorgeous stone.)
 

LightBright

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Dropsonde, I read your other thread and think you were given very good advice there. Diamondseeker recommended looking at both the J and the I that you posted in this thread. The CvB settings were really lovely, and the 1.90 L in the pre-loved LAD/CvB setting that was recommended was particularly stunning. I think you may want to look closely at those three stones.

The Chloe setting is beautiful, and your reasoning behind wanting to surprise your girlfriend with that setting in yellow gold makes sense. So I think you are on the right track. The only other thing I can think of off the top of my head is if you really want to go with the CvB Chloe, you should check with Caysie to see if she has any access to old cut diamonds or if she has any on hand. I think any one of the stones I mentioned above have great potential for that particular setting. The next step is to look at one of them in person which I encourage you to do!
 

gretag

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Mar 21, 2017
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I wasn't originally considering a transitional

There is a lot of confusion and misinformation regarding "transitional" which historically means the cuts that came after an OEC and before the MRB the 'transition' period. They can have proportions all over the place, some had small tables some larger. Some had thick arrows(like an OEC) and some thin like an MRB. Al Gilbertson's book American Cut touches on this better than any other source I have read.

This OEC does have the small table and higher crown with VERY GOOD polish, although FAIR symmetry:

Symmetry as graded by GIA is not the same as optical symmetry, the meet point symmetry GIA grades is not something your eye can readily see.

I would ignore it as selection criteria as long as it is fair or above. Polish I would ignore as well as long as its fair or above and doesn't impact brightness.
 

LightBright

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Diamondseeker suggested this diamond and setting in the OP's first thread (link above). Dropsonde, this 1.90 L has been endorsed now by several Pricescopers who know their old cuts (Soxfan and Diamondseeker both own or have owned old cuts). Even if you don't like the setting (I very much do)... if your girlfriend wears a lot of gold colored jewelry you should definitely give this rose gold setting a look. The diamond is a really nice cut, has a beautiful crown and substantial size.
 

soxfan

Ideal_Rock
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It's a steal because you are getting a beautiful and large OEC AND a custom CVB setting for a great price!!!!! I think caysie charges $2500 for that setting in rose gold. I love this ring and the diamond.
 

ringo865

Ideal_Rock
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Another vote for the Elsa at LAD.

Reluctantly, though, because I've been begging DH for months. Instead we went on a cruise. Then returned and immediately had to replace our fridge.

So the cards and timing are not in my favor. It's a beautiful stone and setting.
 

vintagelover229

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Pretty sure if you gave your gf this ring her, and all of her GF's would never look at jewelery the same. I mean, the stone, the combo is OUT Of this world. Oh and she has a try it before you buy it policy too not sure if that applies to consignment stuff but can't hurt to ask.

Seriously, a great option and a great price. BUY IT as the other PSer suggested. It will likely be the nicest ring anyone you come across has ever seen, unless you run across another PSer. There are a few in the Houston area.

If your open to buying new, and a MRB Brian Gavin Diamonds is in Houston as well as Whiteflash. Whiteflash now has a sugarland store front as well. I've been to both when I lived there, and they both sell top notch stones, and high quality craftsmanship for settings. They also can call in anything you want pretty much.

But again, just buy this one and save yourself an arm, a leg and a ton of leg work.

http://www.loveaffairdiamonds.com/1-90ct-old-european-cut-diamond-in-cvb-elsa-gia-l-vs1/
 

dropsonde

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lol I appreciate the enthusiasm for the LAD Elsa! I think it's gorgeous as well. Literally my only hesitation is the rose gold--I don't think my girlfriend is a rose gold girl. If it were yellow gold, I wouldn't hesitate. But perhaps she would change her mind if she saw it in person so I will inquire about "try before you buy" opportunities for the consignment. Perhaps a silly question but does wearing a mix of rose and yellow gold jewelry work OK because I know she wouldn't want to feel limited in wearing other rings with the rose gold.

vintagelover229 I also love that second Rubylane Edwardian you suggested--if only it were yellow gold. The LAD Amanda is very pretty too. Opinions if such a warm stone would be problematic for an ER? (And thanks for the Houston info too!)

Thanks again for everyone's comments and input as i work through this journey. Keep them coming.
 

vintagelover229

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I know many will say 'oh please don't buy your gf an O colored diamond for her ER if she hasn't told you she loves lower colored stones' and I get that. But your talking about diamond nuts who LOVE stones and know what they love/don't love. I think, esp. that ring there IS a try it before you buy it (she owns it, not consigned) I say if you love the LAD Amanada order it up, maybe with the other one. Not sure what your proposal plans are but maybe propose and say I went with something a bit different but if its not LOVE let me know, she will let me swap it out-can't really beat that. Its big, unique, the flashes it will throw will be insane. I went from a near ideal H VVS1 1.64 carat stone to an N august vintage round with no regrets. Ended up going the colored stone route in yellow gold bc the diamond was much to big for my lifestyle and my circle (wouldn't have switched had I lived in Houston).

Also, rose gold and yellow gold look lovely together IMO. Should be a thread on 'stackers' where people are mixing up muli colored bands.
There also *may* be an option to plate the rose gold yellow gold. The main difference in golds is the alloys used (so it's 18k rose gold, whatever they used to make it 18k over 24k will have a rose color to it vs a white/silver or yellow appearance). The plating will wear off eventually underneath and on the lower shank, requiring it to be redipped from time to time depending on her body chemistry but you may find if you get it in rose gold she may love it. But keep that in mind, being a certain metal color isn't the end all be all. Many people with white gold metals have to have them rhodium dipped and if you go with Jared/mall stores they usually convince you to buy their 'lifetime policy' and that's included so having it redipped in gold from rose/white if its something you like would just be a good chance for the stones to also be checked out. May be too high maintenance for some, but it is a solution :)

There is a HUGE thread on SMTB with M color diamonds and lower. I really think the Amanda would blow her away as well as the rose gold one, I personally think she will love either of them.
Besides, the O set in yellow gold will have a yellow appearance of the diamond giving it a nice fancy look to it. If she likes unique, yellow gold, the charm of an original antique stone and size/fire that is quite the ring. I highly doubt after wearing it a bit she will be like I wish I had a 'usual' stone like everyone else has, I wish he had gone with a normal YG ring with a round stone in it. She'll likely just be memorized by the fire/colors to even get to those thoughts, but again she's your gal-you know her better than anyone.

Erika is a sweetie, the try it before you buy it to see it in person certainly can't hurt. It is an Old Mine cut though, NOT an OEC. It isn't perfectly symmetrical, but I think it adds to its charm. I've been around these boards for over a decade and seen trends come and go. An ER isn't a trend despite the halo, no halo, colorless, flawless, antique things that ebb and flow. This is something she has to live with for the rest of her life, love and enjoy and smile at the thought of you picking out for her, and be excited to show her friends. Just bc its not everyones cup of tea doesn't mean they won't appreciate and see the charm and beauty and craftsmanship behind it. It certainly isn't a classic tiffany and co ring like many people in houston will have. But for ME, I would have fainted getting either the RG or that YG rings from the LAD site. But I'm certainly not the run of the mill gal either!
 

vintagelover229

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Thats a nice stone soxfan! Great price. Man, wish I had a money tree. And people in my life who had bigger diamonds to justify something big like this in my life!
 

vintagelover229

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dropsonde

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Great links vintagelover229, and really appreciate your helpful comments. My girlfriend has the personality that would delight in being different from every other girl in Houston so points well-taken.

Do you guys see much difference in the stones in the LAD Elsa and the 1.91 soxfan linked to? Which has more appeal?

http://www.loveaffairdiamonds.com/1-90ct-old-european-cut-diamond-in-cvb-elsa-gia-l-vs1/
http://www.loveaffairdiamonds.com/1-91ct-old-european-cut-diamond-gia-k-si2/

If I set the 1.90 in a yellow gold Elsa, the cost difference between the two would almost be a wash and I wouldn't have to mess with resizing.

I did broach the subject of rose gold last night and she was open to it, but would want to try in person since she's never worn that color metal before.
 

soxfan

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I would get the preloved elsa, have her try it and if she still wants yellow gold, Just find a stone from Erica and have Caysie make it in yellow gold.
 

LightBright

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I like the L stone's faceting better but the K is very pretty too. I love the high crown on the K. Here's what I'd do. It can't hurt to call Erica and discuss your two choices. I might ask Erica if she will sell the L to you loose, out of the current rose gold setting. If she will, buy the L and send for it, so you can inspect it. The color grade L in an OEC can actually look quite beautiful. If you like it, set it into your preferred yellow gold setting. If not I'd ask her to send you the K for an inspection. I'd be thrilled with either stone!
 

dropsonde

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Unfortunately dealing with some of the recommended vendors has been a mixed bag due to a lack of responsiveness. Things have been moving very slowly -- it's been taking days to get answers back to initial inquiries (one vendor took four days to answer an email).

I did reach out to CvB about potential stones she might be able to source that fit what I was looking for, and she was initially very responsive. But I either asked too many questions, or asked the wrong questions, or maybe she didn't like that I didn't immediately take the first stone offered to me -- whatever the reason, she very quickly stopped communicating with me without explanation. Which is unfortunate because even if we weren't able to work something out on a stone I was still a very interested customer for a potential yellow gold Elsa setting. Wasn't a positive customer experience and I wouldn't do business with her knowing this is her style of customer service.

I am trying to work something out with Erica at LAD but am still waiting for her to get back to me on one last question.

Thanks for checking back in vintagelover229 -- wish I could say differently but this has not been a smooth or easy process so far.

In case things fall through with LAD, what other recommended vendors are out there for quality vintage-style settings?
 

soxfan

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Hmmmm.....Caysie doesn't often source stones. I would reach out to Caysie again, I bet she just missed the email or message. Her settings are amazing!
 

diamondseeker2006

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I'd ask you to please be understanding with Caysie. She is a gifted designer and makes incredible settings, but because she is extremely popular, she gets a huge amount of communication daily. It's not personal if she misses an email. She is constantly working on new designs and orders. She is a one woman show other than her CAD designer and benches, so she is basically doing it all herself. All I can tell you is that I have gorgeous, heirloom pieces from her that you don't just see in ANY jewelry store.

She may not have time to try and source you a stone. That is not her primary area of work, but she finds some great stones sometimes when she comes across them. So if she is busy right now, just get your stone from one of the other vendors and still have her make your setting...because...they are more than worth it in the end!
 

diamondseeker2006

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I think most would agree that no charts, numbers, or descriptors (fair, good, very good, etc) tell the story with OECs. You have to have them in front of you, in different lighting conditions, to make a choice. Although both Grace and Erica (mentioned above) make videos that are very helpful. I chose my OEC by having 3 candidates in front of me, and comparing in all lighting situations I encounter (home, work, outside, etc). Mine is from Old World diamonds and it never ceases to amaze me in the fire and brightness department.

This picture doesn't begin to do it justice. She is fiery!

IMG_2853.jpg

My goodness, Sagefemme, I don't think you have made a thread on your new ring and um, we need to see more pictures!!! I adore your setting!!!
 

Sagefemme

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Yes DS you're right I need to start a thread. I promise I will when I get a moment. Thanks for the reminder!!
 
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