shape
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color
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Noob in buying an engagement ring, help needed

ringo865

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A ‘decagon’ as you can see, has ten pavilion mains, not eight like a traditional modern round brilliant. Also, it has 10 straight edges, not a circular perimeter. Having 10 pavilion mains will result in many more, smaller, light slivers versus the stones with 8 pavilion mains, which, depending on their size, can be smaller or larger slivers of light, but still larger than those on the 10. Different flavors. Like vanilla and chocolate. Neither is bad, its what you prefer.
 

kevindd992002

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@sledge

Just got off the phone with Brian and after 30 minutes of history lesson, he 100% has his stamp of approval on that 0.903. The feather does not affect the the structural integrity of the diamond. Brian's a good and very knowledgeable guy.
 

sledge

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@sledge

Just got off the phone with Brian and after 30 minutes of history lesson, he 100% has his stamp of approval on that 0.903. The feather does not affect the the structural integrity of the diamond. Brian's a good and very knowledgeable guy.

Thank you for confirming this!

I was in the midst of responding to your prior response as I feared we may have offended Lesley. I certainly don't want that to happen intentionally or by mistake.

It is reassuring to get to speak with Brian and gain his stamp of approval. FWIW, I did look at the last hearts image you posted, and it's still clean as a whistle.

All things considered to this point, I think the BGD 0.903 is the winner for your situation.
 

kevindd992002

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Thank you for confirming this!

I was in the midst of responding to your prior response as I feared we may have offended Lesley. I certainly don't want that to happen intentionally or by mistake.

It is reassuring to get to speak with Brian and gain his stamp of approval. FWIW, I did look at the last hearts image you posted, and it's still clean as a whistle.

All things considered to this point, I think the BGD 0.903 is the winner for your situation.

I felt the same but I don't think she should be offended, at all. I think those are valid questions for a purchase this important. I talked to her briefly over the phone before the call got passed over to Brian and she sounded just fine.

Yeah, he wanted to give me all these facts for me to be "informed" but I was getting close to an overloaded state, lol.

I'm leaning towards the BGD 0.903 more but my mind is trying to think of any justification for me to be swayed towards the WF 1.058 :)
 

sledge

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The link doesn't seem to work for me.

Try this. Per the OP's post it's also listed on GoG. However, no price is listed. You will need to call or email about it.


Specs, video & images look good. They need to upload the AGS cert, but I'm sure that is a technicality issue and nothing to be overly worried about.

I like having the SARIN report, but wish it was larger. Even blown up it's blurry.


1618355346537.png
 

kevindd992002

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The OP just posted that the price is $4900. At that price point, the 1.058 WF is more appealing to my taste.

I could've sworn that there is a vendor that shows Sarin reports too but I can't remember which specific vendor. Are those reports important too?
 

CutMonkey

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The OP just posted that the price is $4900. At that price point, the 1.058 WF is more appealing to my taste.

I could've sworn that there is a vendor that shows Sarin reports too but I can't remember which specific vendor. Are those reports important too?

Whiteflash posts Sarin reports (at least for their ACAs).
 

sledge

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Whiteflash posts Sarin reports (at least for their ACAs).

Correct. If you look next to link for the diamond certificate, you will also see a link for the basic SARIN report.

Upon special request, WF will provide a detailed SARIN report that identifies each of the various actual measurements taken. As we know, the certs themselves just show an averaged value of all the actuals.

This detailed data can then be used to correlate back to the advanced images and help explain oddities we may see.

For instance, one of the heart images I posted earlier showed the chevron a little fatter at the 2 o’clock position than the other hearts. The numerical smaller the lower girdle facet (LGF) value the smaller that gap or chevron is. Smaller LGF’s mean fatter arrows which can make the stone contrast differently and also help provide bigger bolder rainbow flashes when combined with the right table size. My point being the detailed SARIN report would show us that larger LGF (more skinny arrows) in that 2 o’clock position. I don’t recall the exact reported LGF values on the report but the average was likely 77 (considered a good balance). We might see values of 78-79 in that area where we may see 76-77 in the others.

For a nerd brain like mine, I’m going to request if available not because of identifying issues but because I want to know all that detail. Most likely the average Joe doesn’t care in the least, lol.

Also on GIA stones I find it more useful as well because the way GIA rounds and averages. Sticking with LGF’s, they report in increments of 5. So common LGF is 75 or 80 on GIA stones. Smaller & larger LGF values for exist but they are less common. However, with GIA a reported value of 75 means the LGF could be 73-77. Just as a reported 80 value could be 78-82. Because the range is so broad due to rounding by GIA a detailed SARIN would be very useful and give us some tips about what to expect. Although in fairness the thickness of the hearts chevron should give us a clue to get us in the ballpark, although the image obviously won’t provide hard numbers like the SARIN report.
786C8C49-D17D-47A0-A391-5B57302DE66A.jpeg
 

sledge

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The OP just posted that the price is $4900. At that price point, the 1.058 WF is more appealing to my taste.

I could've sworn that there is a vendor that shows Sarin reports too but I can't remember which specific vendor. Are those reports important too?

I'm not trying to sway you one way or the other, but wanted to point out that while price is near identical on both these particular stones there are some differences.

I know you prefer 1+ carat, so that 1.058 hits a sweet spot.

In addition to the size difference, there is also a difference in color & clarity. The BGD 0.921 is an H-VS1, whereas the WF 1.058 is a J-SI1. That's two bumps on BOTH color & clarity.

My own opinion is there is lots of value in clean SI1 stones. Getting the lowest clarity that doesn't impact performance and is eye clean helps get your best bang for the buck. At the 1 carat level I personally don't think you will appreciate the difference between a clean SI1 and VS1 that much. All that said, when I was shopping for my wife I targeted a VS2 because of my own preferences.

Color is a different story. For color sensitive people, two bumps up could be the difference of loving a stone or just finding it okay. Only you two can decide what is right in that regards.

Either way, just wanted to make sure you considered these other variables in your analysis.
 
Last edited:

kevindd992002

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I'm not trying to sway you one way or the other, but wanted to point out that while price is near identical on both these particular stones there are some differences.

I know you prefer 1+ carat, so that 1.058 hits a sweet spot.

In addition to the size difference, there is also a difference in color & clarity. The BGD 0.921 is an H-VS1, whereas the WF 1.058 is a J-SI1. That's two bumps on BOTH color & clarity.

My own opinion is there is lots of value in clean SI1 stones. Getting the lowest clarity that doesn't impact performance and is eye clean helps get your best bang for the buck. At the 1 carat level I personally don't think you will appreciate the difference between a clean SI1 and VS1 that much. All that said, when I was shopping for my wife I targeted a VS2 because of my own preferences.

Color is a different story. For color sensitive people, two bumps up could be the difference of loving a stone or just finding it okay. Only you two can decide what is right in that regards.

Either way, just wanted to make sure you considered these other variables in your analysis.

I see. This would've been so much easier if it wasn't a stealth operation. When it is "consigned" with GOG, does that mean that it should be bought from GOG and not from BGD?

As for my other questions regarding setting, do you have any comments on these?

1. Why would I necessarily need to get the size right from the get go? Is re-sizing to a smaller size not that easy or does it always pose risk?

2. I still haven't done my research on the settings but what was suggested to me was to put on "side stones" (if that's the right term) to make it more elegant? Is a Solitaire setting generally the most classic and famous one? Is there any disadvantage to 6 prongs? I thought it covers up a significant area of the round stone?

3. 14K or 18K? Is it true that if the ring is worn everyday, it's better to go with just 14K?

4. White gold or yellow gold? Wouldn't yellow gold usually have an effect to the performance of the diamond?
 

sledge

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I see. This would've been so much easier if it wasn't a stealth operation. When it is "consigned" with GOG, does that mean that it should be bought from GOG and not from BGD?

As for my other questions regarding setting, do you have any comments on these?

1. Why would I necessarily need to get the size right from the get go? Is re-sizing to a smaller size not that easy or does it always pose risk?

2. I still haven't done my research on the settings but what was suggested to me was to put on "side stones" (if that's the right term) to make it more elegant? Is a Solitaire setting generally the most classic and famous one? Is there any disadvantage to 6 prongs? I thought it covers up a significant area of the round stone?

3. 14K or 18K? Is it true that if the ring is worn everyday, it's better to go with just 14K?

4. White gold or yellow gold? Wouldn't yellow gold usually have an effect to the performance of the diamond?

I am not sure the agreement the owner has with GoG, but typically when you use this type of arrangement the owner still legally owns the stone. GoG is simply an intermediary used to advertise, attract a larger buyer base and handle the purchase transaction which can provide security & ease to both a buyer & seller. This all comes at the expense of a mutually agreed upon commission (fee) that GoG will take from the $4,900 sale price so they are compensated for their time & efforts. In many ways it’s similar to using a realtor to sell your home.

So yes, the proper avenue is to purchase from GoG. In this case, BGD can’t even sell the stone. Jumping back to the house example, BGD is like the builder. They originally cut the stone & sold it but no longer have any ownership rights. For all purposes, you are buying a “pre-loved” stone.

If you do pursue this option, you should further clarify future upgrades. Typically the upgrade policies terminate with the original owner. You would be the 2nd owner so BGD is not obligated to extend the trade policy to you. However, I know when they do recuts they will allow the owners to pay a premium to enter their upgrade program. I don’t know if that is a possibility here but it would likely be an added cost if it could happen.

1. It’s good practice to start at the right size because depending what setting style you decide on it may be hard or impossible to make necessary size adjustments later.

2. The side stones are called melee. There is no single right answer of what style is best. I personally love the simplicity of a simple and elegant plain solitaire with a big rock, in platinum. My wife wanted curvy and melee. I designed and custom made what she wanted. That style is unique enough it likely isn’t satisfying to the masses. It’s okay, she absolutely loves it so the one person it matters to is the one it was built to satisfy.

3. Generally speaking the higher the K the more actual gold content. If going yellow gold, 14k is more pale than 18k. Just as 18k is more pale than 24k. As gold content increases it also becomes more malleable due to its material properties. So 24k is softer than 18k which is softer than 14k. So again, some personal preference comes into play. Also as gold content increases so does price. If you go with white gold the non-gold portion is used to make it appear “white”. The exact “fillers” can vary between manufacturers, and also help change the material properties of the metal. For everyday use, I would likely steer towards 14k unless you have a compelling reason to do otherwise.

4. Again this is going to come down to personal preference. I absolutely do not like yellow gold and will never purchase for myself. My wife does not like yellow gold. For us it was always a white metal rather that meant white gold, palladium or platinum. Don’t take me wrong I have seen some very gorgeous and amazing settings in yellow gold. It’s just not our thing. I don’t know where you guys stand but you need to know HER preference before you decide. If you do yellow gold, you can do a white gold head if that is a concern.
 

sledge

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If you want more nitty gritty details, my thread is filled with lots of good info.


FYI here is my wife’s ring.

E89D81AD-EED2-4663-B42E-8638CB11DC4F.jpeg
 

ringo865

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Resizing a ring like sledge’s wife’s ring could be a problem. Since you are unsure of her finger size, and this is a stealth operation, perhaps you could set it in a plain white gold solitaire with six prongs, as a “temporary” setting (for the proposal). Then, if the ring doesn’t fit, it could be easily sized and, if she wanted a more elaborate or specific setting, she could have dibs on picking out or creating her dream setting.
 

kevindd992002

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I am not sure the agreement the owner has with GoG, but typically when you use this type of arrangement the owner still legally owns the stone. GoG is simply an intermediary used to advertise, attract a larger buyer base and handle the purchase transaction which can provide security & ease to both a buyer & seller. This all comes at the expense of a mutually agreed upon commission (fee) that GoG will take from the $4,900 sale price so they are compensated for their time & efforts. In many ways it’s similar to using a realtor to sell your home.

So yes, the proper avenue is to purchase from GoG. In this case, BGD can’t even sell the stone. Jumping back to the house example, BGD is like the builder. They originally cut the stone & sold it but no longer have any ownership rights. For all purposes, you are buying a “pre-loved” stone.

If you do pursue this option, you should further clarify future upgrades. Typically the upgrade policies terminate with the original owner. You would be the 2nd owner so BGD is not obligated to extend the trade policy to you. However, I know when they do recuts they will allow the owners to pay a premium to enter their upgrade program. I don’t know if that is a possibility here but it would likely be an added cost if it could happen.

1. It’s good practice to start at the right size because depending what setting style you decide on it may be hard or impossible to make necessary size adjustments later.

2. The side stones are called melee. There is no single right answer of what style is best. I personally love the simplicity of a simple and elegant plain solitaire with a big rock, in platinum. My wife wanted curvy and melee. I designed and custom made what she wanted. That style is unique enough it likely isn’t satisfying to the masses. It’s okay, she absolutely loves it so the one person it matters to is the one it was built to satisfy.

3. Generally speaking the higher the K the more actual gold content. If going yellow gold, 14k is more pale than 18k. Just as 18k is more pale than 24k. As gold content increases it also becomes more malleable due to its material properties. So 24k is softer than 18k which is softer than 14k. So again, some personal preference comes into play. Also as gold content increases so does price. If you go with white gold the non-gold portion is used to make it appear “white”. The exact “fillers” can vary between manufacturers, and also help change the material properties of the metal. For everyday use, I would likely steer towards 14k unless you have a compelling reason to do otherwise.

4. Again this is going to come down to personal preference. I absolutely do not like yellow gold and will never purchase for myself. My wife does not like yellow gold. For us it was always a white metal rather that meant white gold, palladium or platinum. Don’t take me wrong I have seen some very gorgeous and amazing settings in yellow gold. It’s just not our thing. I don’t know where you guys stand but you need to know HER preference before you decide. If you do yellow gold, you can do a white gold head if that is a concern.

Ok, that's more headache that I can take. I'll stick with WF/BGD. I just heard back from both and they can refund the sales tax if I submit the correct document from the freight forwarder.

1. So out of the blue yesterday, she said she "thinks" she might be a 7 but then I told her that the ring sizer she used before said she was a 6.5 and the store she went to said she was a 6. Are all ring sizers pretty much accurate? Would you trust the ring sizer or the store?

2. How does platinum compare to white gold? Do the melee stones have color ratings that I need to "match" with the main diamond stone?

3. I'm leaning towards 14K too. I just don't know if she prefers WG or YG.

4. Right. I really need to start consulting someone close to her regarding this. I don't want to choose based off of my preference and end up a choice not preferred by her. I know when she was buying a Charriol bracelet, she didn't want Rose Gold and wanted Yellow Gold but I don't know if that applies with rings.

If you want more nitty gritty details, my thread is filled with lots of good info.


FYI here is my wife’s ring.

E89D81AD-EED2-4663-B42E-8638CB11DC4F.jpeg

Thanks, I'll start reading up on that. It's a long thread with lots of details.

Resizing a ring like sledge’s wife’s ring could be a problem. Since you are unsure of her finger size, and this is a stealth operation, perhaps you could set it in a plain white gold solitaire with six prongs, as a “temporary” setting (for the proposal). Then, if the ring doesn’t fit, it could be easily sized and, if she wanted a more elaborate or specific setting, she could have dibs on picking out or creating her dream setting.

If I go that route, can I still put melee stones around and still be fine with possible resizing? Is there a disadvantage of using 6 prong vs. 4 prong?
 

sledge

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Resizing a ring like sledge’s wife’s ring could be a problem. Since you are unsure of her finger size, and this is a stealth operation, perhaps you could set it in a plain white gold solitaire with six prongs, as a “temporary” setting (for the proposal). Then, if the ring doesn’t fit, it could be easily sized and, if she wanted a more elaborate or specific setting, she could have dibs on picking out or creating her dream setting.

Yes, because of the design and melee it is very difficult to size.

If you aren’t sure and don’t want the headache, for sure a basic solitaire is the simplest way to propose. Then you can bring her in on the decision of picking a final setting. After all, she will be wearing this forever. Her opinion and preferences matter greatly.


Ok, that's more headache that I can take. I'll stick with WF/BGD. I just heard back from both and they can refund the sales tax if I submit the correct document from the freight forwarder.

1. So out of the blue yesterday, she said she "thinks" she might be a 7 but then I told her that the ring sizer she used before said she was a 6.5 and the store she went to said she was a 6. Are all ring sizers pretty much accurate? Would you trust the ring sizer or the store?

2. How does platinum compare to white gold? Do the melee stones have color ratings that I need to "match" with the main diamond stone?

3. I'm leaning towards 14K too. I just don't know if she prefers WG or YG.

4. Right. I really need to start consulting someone close to her regarding this. I don't want to choose based off of my preference and end up a choice not preferred by her. I know when she was buying a Charriol bracelet, she didn't want Rose Gold and wanted Yellow Gold but I don't know if that applies with rings.



Thanks, I'll start reading up on that. It's a long thread with lots of details.



If I go that route, can I still put melee stones around and still be fine with possible resizing? Is there a disadvantage of using 6 prong vs. 4 prong?

1. I would be more inclined to think the store has better gear and more reliable. I’d just want to make sure someone didn’t misread or mishear. Also remember that our bodies do weird things. Fingers swell in the cold winter. Maybe weight fluctuated.

Also it might be a preference thing. I prefer both my watches and wedding band to fit a little loose. So many times I can wear a smaller size than I buy. Maybe the store said a 6 and technically it fit but she preferred the wiggle room of a 7?

The real opportunity here is that since SHE brought it up, it may be an easy way for you to go to the jewelry store to solve the mystery. You may get lots of valuable feedback. Obviously play it cool. Maybe even have a secondary reason for going — “hey, while there I would really like to show you this cool watch I saw”. It’s not about the watch but rather about her seeing the size isn’t the reason for the trip. Obviously make sure they have watches, lol.

2. Platinum is a more pure metal. It’s more expensive than WG. It has different strength characteristics. And even the coloring is slightly different. As you wear platinum it develops a slight patina which I love personally. However, some periodically polish to remove the patina. Many people consider platinum the white metal of choice and prestige. Also there is a weight difference. I know this sounds weird but my own wedding band is too light for my own tastes. I prefer the heavier feel of platinum and tungsten personally. My wife liked WG because it’s more shiny and lighter. Her setting is a special WG/palladium alloy that DK uses. Oddly enough the price difference was within a $100 or so in my case so price was never a deterring factor. Many times people like platinum prongs.

Yes, melee is just very small diamonds. They still have color, clarity and cut characteristics. Because of their size, they are typically graded in lots instead of individual stones. Matching color properly
Is important. It’s also a little tricky. Smaller stones of the same color grade can appear whiter because of their small mass. When doing my wife’s setting I clearly communicated main stone color and the fact I wanted all the melee to match as close to perfect so we didn’t see overly white or yellow melee. Also the super ideal vendors like WF and BGD tend to use better cut melee as those stones need to be firecrackers as well. Amy @ DK made a point to make sure she picked superior melee as well.

3. I can’t help you. This is strictly preference. For us, yellow was never an option because we dislike it and I knew that going in. If your girl has a Pinterest page, she may have rings pinned that she likes which may offer some additional insight. Many women do this.

4. Yeah, to stay stealth you have to become a spy, lol. Use resources wisely. Maybe even fabricate random stories to data mine her. For instance, if you see a yellow gold ring on TV, you could make a big deal about it. Oh how you love it or hate it. Let her play into the discussion. Essentially you prime the conversation. Then shut up and let her spill her guts without her even realizing it. People like to talk about themselves and things they like. You can learn a lot if you listen. After all, God gave us 2 ears and 1 mouth...maybe there is a reason. By the way, not implying your girl is a blabber mouth or anything like that. Just there is incredible power in listening.
 

kevindd992002

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What is the difference between a Solitaire and a Tiffany? They look the same to me. Also, is a Pave just a Solitaire with melee stones? If I get one of the signature settings in BGD, do I get to request for melee stones that match the diamond?
 

Karl_K

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If your getting all kinds of different finger sizes you can buy a set of sizers. Find the one that fits and ship it to your vendor and tell them this size and let them figure it out.
Alternatively you can find the one that fits measure the inside with calipers and give them the number.
Both methods are more accurate that just a size.
Get one with multiple sizers not the slide ones.
 

sledge

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Sorry I am traveling and exploring Dallas this weekend with the wife. She’s kind of an attention drama Queen so it is severely limiting my diamond talks, lol.

Seriously though, I think @denverappraiser and @Karl_K hit the nail on the head.

Only thing I might add is pave is a style in which melee is set. Look at my wife’s pic I posted earlier. That twisty legs on the outside are pave. The main center piece is also melee stones but uses a channel set style instead of pave.

In regards to sizing, if you go full pave (all around the ring) its very difficult to resize it. Some will go 1/2 or 3/4 to allow some wiggle room, reduce expense and also not have the maintenance issue of having stones on the bottom where they get banged up.

You may want to Google different styles or simply find a pic of what you want and we can explain it better.
 

kevindd992002

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No worries at all!

So earlier we talked about an engagement ring of a recently-engaged local celebrity couple and she disliked the style. The ring is featured in this article:


She then goes and shows me a picture of a ring that she prefers and it was a simple ring with a center stone that has prong which I believe is a Solitaire and is not yellow gold. So that tells me that she really prefers classics with either WG or Platinum. And then she points out my sister's engagement ring that has side (melee) stones which is also fine for her.

With that said, I think a Pave would be a good fit for her. If I go with that style, how much wiggle room do I have if I go 1/2 Pave with a Solitaire style center stone?

Are twist style Pave's resizeable?
 

sledge

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There’s a few things I noticed with that pic you shared. It has pear shaped melee stones that tapers from wide to narrow. It was YG and it had 4 prongs.

Personally, based on what you have shared I would likely go with a WG solitaire. She likes simple. It’s the most cost efficient option so depending how much you save on the setting you could throw that money into getting a bigger diamond.

The side stones introduce cost and maintenance and may introduce resizing complications. I’d eliminate all that with a solitaire.

But I would find a really nice flowing solitaire. Some are clunky and others just seem like they flow. You will know what I mean when you see. I’d keep 6 prongs as it’s more security and doesn’t allow the round diamond to take a squarish shape that 4 prongs sometimes do. I might even consider a “reverse taper” where the setting gets narrower as it approaches the diamond. Visually this can play eye tricks and make the stone appear larger than it really is.

I will take a peek and maybe leave a link to a few suggestions if I can find time. Otherwise it may be Monday before I get home.
 

kevindd992002

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Ok, thanks. At this point I don't really know the different variants of each style as it looks like there's a looot to choose from.

I, personally, would like melee stones as they add elegance to the ring but I'm not sure which between Solitaire and Pave does my girl prefer. A Solitaire, for me, is plain and dull but I might need to see pictures of what you're trying to describe as I might've not seen the gorgeous Solitaires yet.
 

sledge

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@sledge

Do you know what would be considered a super good deal price for the 1.058 WF stone in case I can work something out with WF?

If you order a solitaire and diamond together, they may offer some sort of a discount on one or the other. You could ask, but I don't have any secret codes or discounts to offer, sorry.



Proportions appear to work. 57t, 61.8d, 34c/40.8p & 80 LGF. Picture makes symmetry appear wonky. Might be a visual effect. B2C can check to with their supplier to see if additional images are available. Or they be able to ship in and do their own imaging so you can make a better informed decision.

Just seems like headache when you KNOW you have a guaranteed performer with the BGD 0.903, a better upgrade policy and no headaches. I'm not sure what you are really gaining here.



Request cert, but not overly optimistic looking at video.



Reject. No cert available to confirm proportions, but video isn't promising.



Reject. C/P relationship is not complimentary @ 36.5/41. Also too deep @ 63.3. Stone is cut for weight, not beauty. Called a "steep & deep" stone.



Reject. C/P isn't ideal at 34.5/41.2 and stone is too deep @ 62.8.
 

kevindd992002

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Yeah, no, WF actually asked what value am I looking at for that stone to "move forward" and since I'm new to this I want to make sure that I'm not lowballing them. Do you have a specific value in mind?

Nevermind those B2CJewels choices then. They were given to me by them as alternative choices.
 

sledge

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A few thoughts for a potential price negotiation:

1. There is a link on all their pages that if you register you get $100 off your first order. That's roughly 2% of the total price of the stone you are looking at.

2. Advise them you are shopping for best price & best cut and another comparable super ideal vendor has offered you an additional 5% off the wire price. Ask them if they can match or beat that.

3. If you elect to go with a pave style engagement ring, then perhaps some additional discount can be achieved by requesting lower colored melee so it better matches the center stone. For instance, this setting comes with ideal cut, F/G color & VS clarity. Asking for a lower color melee would help not only better match the center stone but may yield a small cost savings as well.

4. Be reasonable. In many ways it feels like "the tail is wagging the dog" instead of the other way around. What I mean is it seems you are letting a few hundred bucks make your decision on a $4-5k purchase. That is silly. It's okay to want something and realize it's not a commodity that is readily available everywhere so you pay a little more for it.

A quick diversion. A few years back I wanted to pick up a "cheap" AR15 to add to my already plentiful gun collection. Cheap pre-built units were running $500-600 at the time. I opted to custom build my own. I put on a sweet ACOG scope, along with optional laser & light trigger switches. Went with a combo of tan & black colors. Got quality magazines. Had some better grips added & an adjustable stock I preferred. Ran true 556 NATO rifling so I could fire 223's or 556's. Included a more sensitive trigger and a few other little things.

When I was done, I had a little over $800 in it. More than the cheap units everyone was buying, but more precise and more options and more comfortable to shoot. I had a gun dealer & shop owner buddy price out my gun and he valued it around $2,300 and asked if I wanted to sell as he knew it would sell like hotcakes.

My point is there is a difference between low dollar and a good value. Don't be driven by the dollar, instead focus on the overall value.


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kevindd992002

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 6, 2021
Messages
89
A few thoughts for a potential price negotiation:

1. There is a link on all their pages that if you register you get $100 off your first order. That's roughly 2% of the total price of the stone you are looking at.

2. Advise them you are shopping for best price & best cut and another comparable super ideal vendor has offered you an additional 5% off the wire price. Ask them if they can match or beat that.

3. If you elect to go with a pave style engagement ring, then perhaps some additional discount can be achieved by requesting lower colored melee so it better matches the center stone. For instance, this setting comes with ideal cut, F/G color & VS clarity. Asking for a lower color melee would help not only better match the center stone but may yield a small cost savings as well.

4. Be reasonable. In many ways it feels like "the tail is wagging the dog" instead of the other way around. What I mean is it seems you are letting a few hundred bucks make your decision on a $4-5k purchase. That is silly. It's okay to want something and realize it's not a commodity that is readily available everywhere so you pay a little more for it.

A quick diversion. A few years back I wanted to pick up a "cheap" AR15 to add to my already plentiful gun collection. Cheap pre-built units were running $500-600 at the time. I opted to custom build my own. I put on a sweet ACOG scope, along with optional laser & light trigger switches. Went with a combo of tan & black colors. Got quality magazines. Had some better grips added & an adjustable stock I preferred. Ran true 556 NATO rifling so I could fire 223's or 556's. Included a more sensitive trigger and a few other little things.

When I was done, I had a little over $800 in it. More than the cheap units everyone was buying, but more precise and more options and more comfortable to shoot. I had a gun dealer & shop owner buddy price out my gun and he valued it around $2,300 and asked if I wanted to sell as he knew it would sell like hotcakes.

My point is there is a difference between low dollar and a good value. Don't be driven by the dollar, instead focus on the overall value.


Screen Shot 2021-04-19 at 11.37.09 PM.png

Thanks for the insight. I completely understand. In all honesty, WF was the one who reached out to me and asked what it would take for me to move forward with the stone I have in mind. I didn't even try haggling with them as I'm leaning towards the BGD stone already and making some final arrangements with my freight forwarder.

When WF sent me an email about this, I didn't know a good value to give them but matching the discount deal from BGD crossed my mind. I already replied to them earlier though and we'll see what they say. But like I said, the BGD stone is really very good for me at its price point.

So yes, while I'm concerned getting a good dollar deal, it isn't really my main basis for my decision. Getting a good value diamond is what I'm after and I know that the price per carat for 1ct+ stones tend to be higher than the "close to 1ct" stones.
 
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