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Bespoke Lab Ruby Ring

Niffler75

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,053
So I am planning to have a ring made using the lab ruby I purchased last week. The measurements are 11x11mm modified cushion precision cut.

20200422_142449.jpg

I have contacted a company called Jewelcast in the UK and am starting to look for inspiration. I will then try to sketch out my idea and have a CAD drawn up, 3D printed and cast. Then have a local bench set the stone.
Here are some pics I really love. I want a substantial RHR that is unique, clean and modern.
I am toying with the idea of a flush set grey spinel on either side of the central stone as I quite like the idea of red and grey together.
I love bezels but am thinking a semi bezel setting would be better.


platinum-rings-stack.png

4786_master.jpg

9113892_master.jpg

sr257-skybt_005_1.jpg

images.jpeg-1.jpg

Thoughts, ideas always welcome! :mrgreen2:
Once I get my creative juices going I'll try some sketches and post them.
 

Tartansparkles

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 23, 2017
Messages
237
I love bezel settings and went with a semi bezel but I would think twice about doing a semi bezel again - whenever I put my ring down the stone (zircon) comes into direct contact with the surface of the table i.e it isn't protected. I might be being paranoid but I'm worried that one day I'll take the ring off in too much of a hurry and damage the stone.

I'm also in the UK and looking forward to hearing how you get on. And fabulous stone!
 

Niffler75

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,053
@junebug17 Thanks for your thoughts. I am really looking to create a more selective bespoke collection of jewellery so am selling about a quarter/ third of the pieces I have to fund new projects and really paring things back.

Hi @Tartansparkles Thanks for your input. I really appreciate it. Take a look at Jewelcast in Birmingham. Tell me what you think. They have fantastic examples of their work and the casting process seems very reasonably priced. I really like the idea of using CAD and 3D printing to create something unique! It will be my first time doing this, so documenting my progress I hope will be helpful, particularly for others in the UK. =)2
 

dk168

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
6,215
Would a diamond halo make it too big for your finger, as it Is a big stone?

Here is my inexpensive Amethyst purchased from Jeff Davies, similar in shape and slightly small than your Ruby, in a diamond halo inspired by Tiffany's Legacy setting.

My ring finger is about 8.5 US.

630585

DK :))
 

Niffler75

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,053
@dk168 Oh that's beautiful! The amethyst is virtually the same shape. Thanks for sharing! :mrgreen2: I think a halo may make it a bit too big for my finger but am thinking of flush setting a few grey spinel either side. I'm only 5'2 and have quite small hands.
I am slightly concerned about the CAD process as it will all be done online but obviously want to make absolutely sure my stone will fit the setting!
 

dk168

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
6,215
I am 5'2 and shrinking. :lol:
Although I have small hands, I have chunky fingers.
It is good to use a lab stone for your first CAD project as it is less risky.
Good luck, and I look forward to seeing your finished ring.

DK :))
 

Niffler75

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,053
So I am working on some rough sketches and think I have found a nifty way of channel setting my ruby so it like like a semi bezel but also offers some protection to the exposed sides.
I was also thinking of flush setting a grey spinel each side of the ruby and have found some 3mm stones that are greyish purple. My ruby has a bit of purple in too. Thoughts anyone?
 

Niffler75

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,053
So here is my ring plan I have forwarded to get translated into CAD and made.
I have found some lovely 3.5mm silver purple spinel that I think I will get flush set on either side.
I have also found another casting company in the UK that can offer better costings for the CAD design work, 3D print and casting. =)2

15880962109531093688197233260837.jpg
 

Bron357

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 22, 2014
Messages
4,337
What a wonderful project and very exciting!
Just one thing to remember, if you go with a tension set gemstone you can’t resize the ring. You can make it smaller by adding sizing beads or a clip inside, but bigger no.
 

Niffler75

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,053
@Slick1 Thanks so much. I personally like simpler modern settings and I think it will hopefully showcase the stone and allow the light in. :mrgreen2:

@Bron357 :wavey:Thanks for the reminder about tension settings and ring size.
If this works out I have a few other projects in mind, maybe a treat for christmas!
Giving myself things to look forward to is helping me stay (relatively) sane!
:lol:
 

Niffler75

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,053
So I've decided to go with a different casting company, Black Arts in the UK. Have okayed the budget and it's with CAD designer now.

These are his measurements and starting point. What do you think? ;)2

Dimension check.jpg
 

paragon1234

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Mar 8, 2020
Messages
102
I'm following this with interest as I have some loose stones. Will they set the stone for you? Do you need to send it to them to make sure it fits?
 

Niffler75

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,053
@paragon1234 They don't set stones on site but have benches they work with who will I think.
Are you in the UK? I have heard of some PSers outsourcing CAD/ setting to other countries. I have been researching getting it all done in the UK. It's a bit of an experiment really! I like a challenge! :cool2:
 

paragon1234

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Mar 8, 2020
Messages
102
@paragon1234 They don't set stones on site but have benches they work with who will I think.
Are you in the UK? I have heard of some PSers outsourcing CAD/ setting to other countries. I have been researching getting it all done in the UK. It's a bit of an experiment really! I like a challenge! :cool2:
Yes I'm in the UK. I don't really want to send my precious stones abroad and have yet to find a custom jewellery maker in the UK who doesn't charge an arm and a leg :(
 

Niffler75

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,053
So had excellent to and fro communication with the CAD designer. Here is a provisional CAD and I have asked for just a few tweaks including tapering the band width a bit more.
RC tension cushion 2.jpg

I also worked up a little 2D scale model which I know is not very scientific but gives a good idea of proportions. I am so far really happy.

20200504_113259.jpg
 

Austina

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 24, 2017
Messages
4,348
It’s going to be a lovely substantial piece @Niffler75, you’ll need it to hold that whopper! Can’t wait to see it IRL, it’s going to be stunning.
 

Tartansparkles

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 23, 2017
Messages
237
Enjoying following along with your journey and looking forward to seeing how you fab ring turns out. How does the pricing work - do you pay for the CAD then casting (presumably plus the cost of gold) then for the setting of the stone?
 

Niffler75

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,053
@Tartansparkles Ok, so the CAD designer works separately from the casting company i am using but he takes all the CAD work for them.
CAD and 3D printing I pay the designer, then for the casting pay separately.
So far (touch wood) it has been a smooth process. But I then need to find a bench to set the stone and with jewellers closed, well, that's a work in progress!
So far- CAD design £50 (2 hours work including design revisions) and 3D printing £20.
Then with casting- making model from 3D print £15 + cost of metal per gram.
 

Niffler75

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,053
Hi everyone, here is an update. The cast ring has just arrived, gosh it took ages but was worth the wait! So now I need a local bench to grind down the sprue, polish the ring and set the ruby.

20200612_125256.jpg
20200612_125333.jpg
20200612_125522.jpg
20200612_125416.jpg

So you can see the pre- made notches that I included in the CAD for the ruby. It is a rounded band and feels extremely comfy to wear!
So on to the final stage. Local jewellers are opening back up so hopefully this stage will be quicker! :mrgreen2:
 

missy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jun 8, 2008
Messages
36,205
Hi everyone, here is an update. The cast ring has just arrived, gosh it took ages but was worth the wait! So now I need a local bench to grind down the sprue, polish the ring and set the ruby.

20200612_125256.jpg
20200612_125333.jpg
20200612_125522.jpg
20200612_125416.jpg

So you can see the pre- made notches that I included in the CAD for the ruby. It is a rounded band and feels extremely comfy to wear!
So on to the final stage. Local jewellers are opening back up so hopefully this stage will be quicker! :mrgreen2:
I’m so excited for you!!! It’s going to be STUNNING ❤❤❤
 
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