Which platinum alloy mix does VATCHE use now?

[LawmaLlama]

I found some old threads on this topic which say Vatche uses 95plat/5 iridium. From everything I've read that ratio is the undesirable softer platinum. I am considering a Vatche plat setting for my GOG upgrade ring, but definitely don't want the softer platinum. Does Vatche use that ratio? Or, do they use a different alloy and ratio?

My previous ring was a Simon G LP 1072 style (purchased in 2002). I can't determine the mix, but I'm guessing it was the softer platinum. It held an emerald cut with a 4 prong basket setting, rather than a round, but you can see the Simon G setting here:
http://www.since1910.com/simon-g-lp1072-pave-diamond-engagement-ring/v_75_m_80_s_

I had many, many problems with it over the years. At one point, it was slightly too big for me, caught on something, and literally bent. It is no longer perfectly circular. The scroll work broke a few times over the years, and it was repaired 2-3 times (it is currently broken again, but just sitting in my safe for a future CS project). The milgrain bothered me the most because I love milgrain, but it is extremely worn and nearly gone. Over the years I specifically instructed jewelers not to polish my ring. It was rubbed out in a few places during the very few times I had my ring polished.

While I love the color, patina, and heft of platinum, I don't want to go through that again. Help!?

 

[PintoBean]

I can't readily find the information in a quick google search. I'd suggest going to the vatche website and going to the "contact us" tab.

 

[LawmaLlama]

Good idea. I'll try their email address and post any info if they respond.

 

[wildcat03]

I believe they use 95% plat/5% iridium. However, lots of people on here have asked them to use 90 plat/10 iridium. I think I've heard they will also do 95 plat/5 ruthenium, which is harder than the 95/5 iridium.

 

[LawmaLlama]

Yep, so here's the confirmation from their Chief Operating Officer: "Our mix is 95% Platinum-5% Iridium standard in all of our platinum rings."

I'll see what he says about changing the alloy.

 

[LawmaLlama]

Good news! Looks like you can special order your alloy mix.

My questions to the COO:
Is it possible to have the ring made with a different alloy? For example, 95 plat / 5 ruthenium, or 90 plat / 10 iridium?
And if so, is there an additional cost to do so?

His response:
Yes both of those options are available on a special order basis.
They are not manufactured as often as the standard mix so a slightly longer lead time is required to produce it.
And there are no additional fees to produce it. Time of delivery is the only item to be affected.

 

[LawmaLlama]

Ok, so now I need PS'rs expert opinion given my previous experience with platinum. Which of the 2 better alloy mixes should I choose?

 

[wildcat03]

http://www.mwmjewelry.com/platinum_purity.htm

This may be helpful

 

[LawmaLlama]

Thank you so much wildcat03. Based on this article, I'm definitely going for the 90/10 mix!
My original diamond was cracked by a cruddy jeweler who was attempting to tighten the prongs of my old ring. I never, ever want to go through that again!

 

[PintoBean]

Years ago, when I had my avatar ring made in platinum and YG, I followed the suggestion of PSers with platinum jewelry and went with 95% Plat and 5% Ru and am very pleased with the result.

 

[LawmaLlama]

pintobean - did you have a special reason you chose the 95/5 ruth over the 90/10 iridium? I'm definitely hard on my every day ring and I just want to make sure I am considering the pros/cons of the different alloys.
That article seemed to indicate that 95/5 ruth might be more likely to crack?

 

[PintoBean]

pintobean - did you have a special reason you chose the 95/5 ruth over the 90/10 iridium? I'm definitely hard on my every day ring and I just want to make sure I am considering the pros/cons of the different alloys.
That article seemed to indicate that 95/5 ruth might be more likely to crack?

This should help:
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/legacy-inspired-setting-white-gold-or-platinum.163838/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/legacy-inspired-setting-white-gold-or-platinum.163838/[/URL]

 

[LawmaLlama]

Thanks pintobean. I went a-hunting and found some old threads that have me convinced I should go with 900/10 iridium.

I also found this old thread with a helpful response from Victor Canera on why he uses 900/10:
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/are-there-any-downsides-to-a-900-platinum-100-iridium-mix.158700/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/are-there-any-downsides-to-a-900-platinum-100-iridium-mix.158700/[/URL]

And this thread:
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/platinum-connesuirs-pls-help-plat-iridium-900-100-vs-950-50.72244/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/platinum-connesuirs-pls-help-plat-iridium-900-100-vs-950-50.72244/[/URL]

Thanks everyone for the help!

 

[cflutist]

I had both of my Vatche rings made with Pt950/Ru (950 parts platinum and 50 parts Ruthenium) because it has a higher Vicke's Hardness and thus is more resistance to scratching. It also has the highest tensile strength and is the same platinum alloy that Tiffany uses.

Been wearing my CBI diamond in a Vatche setting as a right hand ring everyday since December 2014. It definitely gets more banging around than my ering on my left (I am right-handed), but is doing fine.

http://www.platinumguild.com/files/pdf/V12N6_platinum_durability.pdf

 

[Winks_Elf]

I deal with Vatche a few times a week. The standard blend (unless otherwise requested) is PT950 with ruthenium as the alloy. Upon request, they will do the 950 with iridium or 900 with iridium. I have yet to have a request for 900 with ruthenium. Their 18kwg is done with a palladium alloy, so that as it wears it will stay nice and white, and avoids allergies for those allergic to nickel.

Have a great weekend all!

 

[nycspring]

I have a Vatche U-113 that was special ordered in 95 plat / 5 ruthenium. I don't have another type of engagement ring to compare, but my ring has held up very well for the past year and still looks shiny and new. You have to look very closely to see tiny scratches from frequent wear. At this rate, I'll probably get it polished once every two years.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I have the Vatche U-113 in the 90/10 iridium and it also holds up great (although you have to take care of any fine jewelry, of course)! All I did was request the different alloy when I ordered the ring.

 

[LawmaLlama]

Thanks diamondseeker and all! I am leaning towards the 90/10 irid, primarily for the hardness and the subtly whiter color than the one with the ruth alloy. I have very cool-toned skin, and just prefer the whiter plat. Thank you everyone for your help!

 

[ppuff211]

I purchased a Vatche setting through whiteflash and am having it made in 90plat/10irid. It did not lengthen my wait time (2 weeks).

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Looking forward to seeing your new ring!

 

[iwantsparkle]

Thanks diamondseeker and all! I am leaning towards the 90/10 irid, primarily for the hardness and the subtly whiter color than the one with the ruth alloy. I have very cool-toned skin, and just prefer the whiter plat. Thank you everyone for your help!

What did you decide?

I am in the beginning stages of having a platinum setting made and now I am wondering if I should ask about this, too.

 

[LawmaLlama]

I special ordered the 90/10 earlier this week. GOG says it should take about 3 weeks. I can hardly stand it, I'm so excited to see how this turned out. At least the end is in sight!

 

[LawmaLlama]

Bad news folks, GOG informed me Vatche is having difficulty finding a caster for the 900/10 mix. They have asked 4 different casters and they are no longer doing it.

My DH thinks the subtle difference between 950 and 900 in vickers hardness won't be as big a deal this time since the setting I've chosen is less intricate and has no milgrain.

What do you all think? Should I just settle for the standard 950 iridium mix?

 

[PintoBean]

I would go with the 950 ru mix in the alternative.

 

[LawmaLlama]

I think my hesitation with going with the ruthenium alloy is what is stated in some of those articles upthread, that it is the most difficult mixture for the jeweler to work with given its Vickers hardness and the pressure that is needed to set the stone. It seems as if jewelers are less familiar with that harder alloy.

I've already had one experience where a jeweler cracked my EC diamond when trying to tighten prongs in a 950 irid Simon G ring. I would be horrified if my newly purchased diamonds were cracked during the setting process, or at a later date for routine maintenance. I can't go through that again.

For me, I don't mind patina. My concern is the softness of the plat leading to bending of the shank and/or cracking. Ugh, it feels like a no win situation for me.

Does anyone know if the quality of the standard 950/50 mix varies by manufacturer? Should I be less concerned with the quality of the standard 950/50 mix offered by Vatche? In other words, is it possible that the Vatche standard mix is higher in quality than the Simon G standard mix?

Or should I just resign myself to choosing another setting? Are there any other GOG designers that offer the 900/100 mix?

 

[PintoBean]

Is a handforged setting within your budget? I think that would be the safest, most secure route when it comes to going platinum.

 

[LawmaLlama]

I kinda went way over budget on the diamonds (yes plural) I have purchased from GOG, and I knew I wanted a fairly simple setting in platinum. So, unfortunately, I really can't spend more than what I've already paid for this Vatche plat setting.

DH and I talked about it after he read all the plat articles on vickers hardness. I'm going to go ahead with standard plat. He is ok with me getting a new setting in another 10 years if this one ends up bent, mangled, etc like my old one.

Thanks pinto bean and everyone for the help!