Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Asscher

[amelielovescats]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Regarding who is making the setting, I'd likely go with DBL because they can pretty much replicate anything, even if it is not one of their advertised semi-mounts.

DBL does let you upgrade the entire ring--stones and setting--if you purchased all of it through DBL. On DBL's "Specials" page, he often has a ring or two listed that was a trade-up.

David has been really generous, so it behooves me to source the setting through them. Once I made arrangements to buy a stone and he accidentally sold it. To make up for the error, he sold me a larger stone with a better clarity (same color) for the other stone's price. And in this instance, I'm trading up a ring that has his custom setting and one of his stones, but another stone from somewhere else. He agreed on the trade up even though it's not entirely consistent with the policy.

 

[amelielovescats]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche



Even though this is a hexagonal diamond, I like that there are prongs on the center for maximum light performance, and the side stones are bezeled and part of the band. I feel this is a good compromise of all the elements I'm seeking: Octavia exposure, side stones, clean and modern.

What do you think?

 

[Niel]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Regarding who is making the setting, I'd likely go with DBL because they can pretty much replicate anything, even if it is not one of their advertised semi-mounts.

DBL does let you upgrade the entire ring--stones and setting--if you purchased all of it through DBL. On DBL's "Specials" page, he often has a ring or two listed that was a trade-up.

David has been really generous, so it behooves me to source the setting through them. Once I made arrangements to buy a stone and he accidentally sold it. To make up for the error, he sold me a larger stone with a better clarity (same color) for the other stone's price. And in this instance, I'm trading up a ring that has his custom setting and one of his stones, but another stone from somewhere else. He agreed on the trade up even though it's not entirely consistent with the policy.

That's what I figured, you'd be using them for the setting
If so, I'd as them to do this, but for you, probably in yellow gold.

http://www.diamondsbylauren.com/index.php/jewelry/loose-colorless-diamond-251ct-e-si2-pear-shape-gia-remarkable-stone-r5014

 

[amelielovescats]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Neil, do you like the round melee with an asscher or emerald cut? I ask because there has been lots of debate...some people like steps with steps; other like brilliants with steps. What if the melee were baguette, given the halo would be only straight edges?

 

[Niel]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Neil, do you like the round melee with an asscher or emerald cut? I ask because there has been lots of debate...some people like steps with steps; other like brilliants with steps. What if the melee were baguette, given the halo would be only straight edges?

If you use bright set pave where you edge the round melee with that metal that makes it very angular, I like it.

 

[dollyanjuli]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Even though this is a hexagonal diamond, I like that there are prongs on the center for maximum light performance, and the side stones are bezeled and part of the band. I feel this is a good compromise of all the elements I'm seeking: Octavia exposure, side stones, clean and modern.

What do you think?

This is very unique and interesting! I personally love it.

I also really liked the LAD halo from page 1 that is made of elongated french cuts- it would probably look really nice with well cut baguettes also, if you don't want to do regular round melee...

 

[Rockdiamond]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Hi All
A few points- the halo ring in the post above is using custom cut baguettes, as opposed to French Cuts IMO. The setting is made then the cutter individually re-cuts straight baguettes to perfectly fit. It's a complicated process, but when done right, obviously very attractive!

DS- can I ask nicely what you've got against our bezels? We've made quite a few for very satisfied PS members- as well as many hundreds- possibly thousands for other non PS clients.
If you can show me one you don't like maybe I can get a handle on the aspects you did not like.

 

[amelielovescats]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Hi All
A few points- the halo ring in the post above is using custom cut baguettes, as opposed to French Cuts IMO. The setting is made then the cutter individually re-cuts straight baguettes to perfectly fit. It's a complicated process, but when done right, obviously very attractive!

DS- can I ask nicely what you've got against our bezels? We've made quite a few for very satisfied PS members- as well as many hundreds- possibly thousands for other non PS clients.
If you can show me one you don't like maybe I can get a handle on the aspects you did not like.

Hi David, it looks like you made that very custom cut baguette halo on this unbelievable emerald:
http://www.diamondsbylauren.com/index.php/jewelry/emerald-ring-1037ct-emerald-cut-colombian-emerald-and-diamond-ring-gia-r6719

Waa-waa-wee-wah! That's an eye-popper. I know there's no way anything like that would be affordable to me, but it is unbelievably gorgeous.

Btw, David, you haven't mentioned what you think the Octavia would look best set in!

 

[liaerfbv]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Neil, do you like the round melee with an asscher or emerald cut? I ask because there has been lots of debate...some people like steps with steps; other like brilliants with steps. What if the melee were baguette, given the halo would be only straight edges?

I like steps with steps personally.

 

[Rockdiamond]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Btw, David, you haven't mentioned what you think the Octavia would look best set in!

Hot. Seat.

Seriously- I have been thinking a lot about this- the custom cut baguette setting was one that I thought would be very nice.
But it's costly- and I want to see the stones in reasonably priced settings that accentuate the amazing shape.....

A bezel is another very strong idea. We do thicker and thinner bezels, and my personal taste would be a thinner bezel for an Octavia.
But my personal taste is irrelevant, just ask my DW

Seriously- I love the step cut bezel set tril ting.......already wondering if I can find side stones like that. I would not lean towards setting brilliant cut trils next to those steep steps.


In terms of pavé- personally I think full cut melee in a bright cut halo, as Niel suggested is a strong contender.

 

[amelielovescats]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Btw, David, you haven't mentioned what you think the Octavia would look best set in!

Hot. Seat.

Seriously- I have been thinking a lot about this- the custom cut baguette setting was one that I thought would be very nice.
But it's costly- and I want to see the stones in reasonably priced settings that accentuate the amazing shape.....

A bezel is another very strong idea. We do thicker and thinner bezels, and my personal taste would be a thinner bezel for an Octavia.
But my personal taste is irrelevant, just ask my DW

Seriously- I love the step cut bezel set tril ting.......already wondering if I can find side stones like that. I would not lean towards setting brilliant cut trils next to those steep steps.


In terms of pavé- personally I think full cut melee in a bright cut halo, as Niel suggested is a strong contender.

David, when you say "step cut bezel set tril ring," you're referring to the pics I posted above of the antique hexagon? Here is the link to a view of all sides. IMO, it looks like a simple basket (with unrefined prongs...grrrrr ) with bezeled trills set into the band.
http://www.langantiques.com/2-91-carat-hexagon-diamond-platinum-engagement-ring.html

If you think this could be done on a 0.98ct scale, and done delicately, and it excites you to do something new, then let's explore it! I'm not set at all on the trilliants...I just like the bezel "windows."

Now go home and tell DW you're excited to try something different and see what she says!

 

[Niel]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Neil, do you like the round melee with an asscher or emerald cut? I ask because there has been lots of debate...some people like steps with steps; other like brilliants with steps. What if the melee were baguette, given the halo would be only straight edges?

I like steps with steps personally.

Yeah but I also like not spending 6k on a setting. Lol

 

[acebruin]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

I love bright cut melee halo with step cut center. But then again I'm biased. I have a royal asscher in pink halo.

 

[Dancing Fire]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

OP...You'll love the Octavia!..

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

DS- can I ask nicely what you've got against our bezels? We've made quite a few for very satisfied PS members- as well as many hundreds- possibly thousands for other non PS clients.
If you can show me one you don't like maybe I can get a handle on the aspects you did not like.

Well, it happened to be for an Octavia, ironically! I can't understand why you'd want to dredge up this old and negative thread, but I'll post it since you have asked.

Here's the thread with the diamond for Amelie, mainly:

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-octavia-is-here-yay.183940/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-octavia-is-here-yay.183940/[/URL]

Now there is a huge, complex, LONG thread about the problems with the setting and more. I am linking to page 5 where the setting is finally shown. It is bulky and wider than the inspiration ring, the inner bezel is kind of sloppy and does not define the shape of the Octavia, stone seems to be a little crooked compared to the bezels, channel looks inadequately finished, etc.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/please-give-me-your-thoughts.186780/page-5']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/please-give-me-your-thoughts.186780/page-5[/URL]

Her new setting for her Octavia which is very pretty:

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/otterly-filled-with-joy-proposal-story-octavia-e-ring.193085/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/otterly-filled-with-joy-proposal-story-octavia-e-ring.193085/[/URL]

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Amelie, I wanted to mention one thing in reference to something you said above. An Octavia is cut for great light performance. Light is reflected from the top of the stone. A full bezel or a halo is not going to diminish its light return. You are not depending on getting light from the sides. This stone isn't going to have a lot of leakage so it is totally safe to set in a bezel or halo.

 

[Rockdiamond]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Thanks for letting us know what was bothering you about our bezels DS.
Bottom line there is the customer is always right. We did make the exact ring ordered- but unfortunately the way it came out was not to the clients liking.
These things happen- it's not always possible to know how a given design will look with a specific diamond- more so in the case of a diamond design which has not been set all that many times. Long story short, a refund was issued and the client moved on.
Regardless, we have the capability to make just about any kind of bezel.

In regards to a bezel blocking light- it does. No matter how a diamond is cut, it's going to draw a small percentage of light through the girdle. It might be a tiny percentage, but it's not zero.
That's not to say that I would not recommend a bezel for someone who loves them.
There's compromises with any design.

Also good that you reminded me of the bezel we made for the Octavia we set a few years back- it was a thick bezel. I definitely would want a thinner bezel next time, if my taste matters, which I've already mentioned , it doesn't

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

David, since you said above that you have perhaps done thousands of bezel settings, I am just going to assume they aren't too detrimental to the light return or else you wouldn't be making so many. There are certain stones I probably wouldn't set in one, either, but an Octavia is not one of them. There are other settings that I personally prefer over a bezel for this stone, however.

I won't revisit the Cygnet situation. I just have seen what I consider to be better quality bezel settings. Just my opinion. You have lots of lovely settings, otherwise.

 

[amelielovescats]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

While I had seen Cygnet's posting of her loose stone (gorgeous!!!), and indeed the GOG video is still up, I didn't see the different setting options she had faced. I'm glad to see her's is a J, which means it's not too far from my K, and I do not at all mind the slight vanilla hue.

I'd like to comment on Cygnet's original setting, if I may.

I have had three bezel set stones by DBL and they were all perfect. One was a double just like Cygnet originally wanted, and two were single bezels. IMO, they were impeccable.

I don't disagree that the DBL double bezel on her Octavia did it no favors. On a larger stone (>2ct), that double bezel is probably magnificent. On a small stone, it was overwhelmed by the metal. Additionally, there are all those sharp corners that a fluid bezel just can't delineate cleanly.

I think what would have rectified the original situation was knowing, in advance, exactly how wide the double bezel is: 2mm? 3mm? 4mm? If the bezel is the same width regardless of stone size, there will be asymmetries with small stones that some won't find palatable. If this kind of information is not readily available, i.e. what is the band width? the bezel width? the melee width? etc, then it's impossible to go into the situation knowing exactly what you will end up with. THAT information should be on the vendor's listings.

Personally I'm in favor of a bezel that's proportionate to the stone, so I can see why Cygnet was disappointed.

Which has led me to veer away from both bezels and halos in this particular case: a small stone may be easily overwhelmed, not enhanced, by its setting.

So thank you to Diamondseeker AND David for being very forthright about your feelings. I think there is unity here amongst us, and that unity is a passion for these amazing, expensive, brilliant chunks of carbon!

I like that everyone here is quite opinionated. Personally, I'm a little too nice for my own good. That's why I like reading the rabble rousers...DS, David, Gypsy, Karl, Gary, and even Yoram have all gotten into it here, but it's all still been very educational for a regular ol person like me.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

You are very gracious, Amelie! That is wonderful that you have already had good experience with DBL bezel settings. I certainly wasn't implying that all of his bezel settings were bad just because one was. You should post a Show Me the Bling thread with all your rings! I'd love to see them!

I take it you saw Cynet's final setting on the last link. I have always thought that was a beautiful setting for an asscher or related stone.

 

[Rockdiamond]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

From my perspective, an important take away is: with custom made settings, the result is always a bit of a question mark. In some cases a smaller question mark.
For example if someone is ordering a ring from a maker that has pictures of a like model of ring made for a similar stone.
In such a case, the differences should be minor. But even then, there can be unexpected variances from stone to stone. Some J colors mount up facing white, others show a tint. That kind of thing.
In the case of "experimental" ideas- where someone wants to make something they have in their mind, but it's a first time effort, there can be surprises- and not always good ones.

Learning from experience, I always discuss contingencies with clients prior to going into a custom made ring. I think understanding the limitations is important.
For sure, a ring seller telling someone "trust me, you're going to love it" is a huge red flag.

Amelie mentioned knowing the specific size of the width of a bezel- and that sounds like a great idea.
BUT ( you knew there was a but coming, right?) there's a few limitations .....first off, sometimes visualization- even if you knew thew exact size- won't match looking at the actual ring in real life.
Secondly, I hate to "handcuff" a bench making a handmade bezel.
CAD is obviously a plus on this aspect- but with handmade, you can't do that- you have to trust the hands working the metal to come out with a proportional result. Even starting with a CAD much of the quality of the bezel is about the setter.

In terms of Octavia- we can all agree a thicker double bezel, that might look great on a cushion ( or whatever) is not a good candidate for Octavia.

Personally, I would like to see single claw prongs ( as opposed to ball prongs) to accentuate the corners better, if it's prong set.
We just finished a killer mill grain bezel- it's quite thin. I think such a bezel would look amazing with Octavia.
I can see them looking amazing with accent diamonds- but also as solitaires- the Octavia design itself is so mesmerizing, it can work in a simple setting.

DS- My feeling is bezels deprive the diamond a tiny amount of light- insignificant, but present. But I could be wrong- just ask DW
In terms of light return- that's generally not people's main concern. Yes they want the diamond to sparkle- but if it sparkles 1% less in a bezel vs prongs, few buyers will forgo the design they prefer IMO.
There's been a long debate about bezels and light performance, clearly not yet settled
They definitely have their pluses- I love a nice bezel.



Oh- about the design with trills- I now can see they used brilliant trils next to the hex diamond. I wold love to see Octavia in a similar setting with set cut trills. Step Cut traps might work too.......

DS- we do agree on more things than we disagree on- and I am glad we can have open discussion/ debate. We both are in FULL agreement that Amelie is a very gracious!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Yes, I definitely think single claw prongs on the corners would be desirable on a stone this size. I also like double claws on larger asschers with wider corners.

David, how do you feel about handforged versus CAD/cast/hand assembled and finished? Not in terms of the design advantages or disadvantages, but the quality and longevity of the end product.

 

[Niel]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

I'm still inclined to say do a halo.

This is a beautiful,but not overly large stone.

I'd do a yellow gold bright set halo.

 

[Rockdiamond]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

Yes, I definitely think single claw prongs on the corners would be desirable on a stone this size. I also like double claws on larger asschers with wider corners.

David, how do you feel about handforged versus CAD/cast/hand assembled and finished? Not in terms of the design advantages or disadvantages, but the quality and longevity of the end product.

It's not really possible to generalize except for a common sense few aspects.
For example, the finest cut down micro pavé is desirable because of how little metal covers the diamonds- which also makes them easier to knock out. Bright cut covers more of the pavé diamonds, but they are less likely to come out.
There's also a desire for thin shanks. It's just common sense that a 2.2mm shank will likely hold up better than a 1.7mm shank ....if we had the same quality setting. casting finishing, etc. Of course that's not the case- there's massive differences in the quality of setting, polishing, casting and hand forging the metal from one bench to the next.
Differences in workmanship and materials will generally have more impact than specific methods of manufacture on durability and longevity- in our experience.

Put another way- a well done cast ring and be just as durable as a well done Hand-forged- and vice versa.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

David, oh, gosh, yes, it makes me crazy when people come here wanting 1.5 or 1.6mm shanks! And of course, you are right that the bottom line has to do with the quality level of either. I sometimes debate about that for my own things. The other thing that comes into play is how people care for (or don't care for) their rings.

Niel, I still like a prong set halo, too, since it will give the extra size appearance. I feel like a halo with bright cut pave would be like an elegant frame for the stone. I'd put a J in platinum, though!

 

[Rockdiamond]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

David, oh, gosh, yes, it makes me crazy when people come here wanting 1.5 or 1.6mm shanks! And of course, you are right that the bottom line has to do with the quality level of either. I sometimes debate about that for my own things. The other thing that comes into play is how people care for (or don't care for) their rings.

Niel, I still like a prong set halo, too, since it will give the extra size appearance. I feel like a halo with bright cut pave would be like an elegant frame for the stone. I'd put a J in platinum, though!

I agree DS- the bright cut halo will give a clearly defined octagonal shape to the ring- which is what I'd love to accent in the setting.

 

[Niel]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

David, oh, gosh, yes, it makes me crazy when people come here wanting 1.5 or 1.6mm shanks! And of course, you are right that the bottom line has to do with the quality level of either. I sometimes debate about that for my own things. The other thing that comes into play is how people care for (or don't care for) their rings.

Niel, I still like a prong set halo, too, since it will give the extra size appearance. I feel like a halo with bright cut pave would be like an elegant frame for the stone. I'd put a J in platinum, though!

But since this stone is a k, what do you think.

I think rose could be could too

 

[amelielovescats]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

AWWWWS! Just when I thought DS and RD were going to break the Internet with this thread...all turns out to be well!

David: you said the word that gives me tingles...milgrain bezel. DO YOU HAVE A PICTURE OF THAT BEZEL?

Niel, you and I are on the same page...I do love me some yellow gold. I know the setting will reflect into the ring and may make it appear more tinted, but I just cannot tell you how appealing I find 18k. I love pink/rose gold but it makes my hands look ruddy. I already wash my hands a lot (medical profession) and my knuckles sometimes look red.

DS and others are rooting for a halo but when it comes to round melee, I don't entirely care for the contrast of the typical white melee with the tint of a lower color white stone. In fact, there was a thread I read recently...someone with a lower color OEC who didn't want side stones for that reason. As a solitaire, the tint wasn't very apparent; as a three stone it more clearly looked like an M (or whatever it was).

David: Elaine is going to kill me if I wishy wash! I've already taken a year off her life. I'll have to visit her in the nursing home and spoon feed her pudding.

 

[amelielovescats]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

I'm still inclined to say do a halo.

This is a beautiful,but not overly large stone.

I'd do a yellow gold bright set halo.

I actually don't know what a "bright set" halo is, but I'll look at some images.

 

[amelielovescats]

Re: Opinions wanted! Setting for 0.98ct K VS1 Octavia Assche

David said something that continues to echo in my mind: "In the case of "experimental" ideas- where someone wants to make something they have in their mind, but it's a first time effort, there can be surprises- and not always good ones."

After much circumnavigating through the hyperactive channels of my mind, I keep returning to the concept of a simpler ring. I feel there is less chance of disappointment with a simple setting (worst case scenario, it's a little boring), and less room for error (communications, perceptions, expectations).

Here is GemFever's OEC in a BGD bezel. It's modern, lets in a lot of light for a bezel, and is softened by that lovel milgrain around the top. I love it. Whether this could be executed or not with *sharp* Octavia corners is unknown.