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How do I determine proportions for 3-stone ring?

annagene12

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
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440
Hi friends!

I recently purchased a lovely vivid blue sapphire and am thinking through different settings and how to decide / budget for my RHR!

I’ve always loved rose cut diamonds, and the “Jaime” 3-stone from CVB designs.

I am debating using my native cut sapphire as the center, with light brown or lower colored rose cut sides to offset the vivid blue. Would the mixed cuts look strange? The one concern I have, many rose cuts I’ve seen have very domed profiles, but it’s hard to tell.

The other thing I am thinking about - how do I pick the size of side stones? My sapphire is 8.56 x 7.05 - I want as much finger coverage as possible and wear a 7.75! (BIG HANDS)

I am happy to source my own stones, and enjoy the hunt.

I like the proportions of this, but I think these are obviously much bigger stones and the same proportions for me would leave me with less coverage:

0D0BEF56-67C2-4DBD-B98C-56D7507CCA7C.jpeg
My sapphire for reference with it sitting on top of my hand - sorry the angle is bad:

12585A10-9045-410E-B07A-BAB845BA0DE7.jpeg EACA7510-69A7-4224-83E2-2B1F0E79A72E.jpeg

What do you guys think?! If this is a bad idea - I may just go to a solitaire or shield cuts, something like that. Bezel for sure.
 

annagene12

Shiny_Rock
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Sep 13, 2019
Messages
440
Just realized- this may belong in the colored stones forum, but the question is about purchasing diamond side stones - sorry I wasn’t sure!
 

junebug17

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Jun 17, 2009
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12,398
This all comes down to personal preference but I think rose cuts would look lovely! I like the proportions of the ring you posted. I'd go for fairly large rose cuts for the extra finger coverage.
 

annagene12

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
440
This all comes down to personal preference but I think rose cuts would look lovely! I like the proportions of the ring you posted. I'd go for fairly large rose cuts for the extra finger coverage.
Aww thank you!!! I’m really excited to do something more playful for an RHR since I went for a plain solitaire for my e-ring.

Do you have a sense of what dimensions I’d be hunting for? It’s so hard for me to tell :confused: I am hoping to get a sense for how much I need to save!
 

junebug17

Super_Ideal_Rock
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I'm thinking 6 - 6.5 mm sidestones - you can use paper cut outs of different mm ovals and see what you think. I've done that and it helps to visualize a little better.
 

sarahb

Brilliant_Rock
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Jul 20, 2012
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1,907
Here's an image I used as I went through the same decision process for my 3 stone. It may help, they are rounds, not ovals.
3 stone ring proportions x1b.jpg

And here are a few good three stone threads that I bet will have some helpful images, good luck!



 

annagene12

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
440
Here's an image I used as I went through the same decision process for my 3 stone. It may help, they are rounds, not ovals.
3 stone ring proportions x1b.jpg

And here are a few good three stone threads that I bet will have some helpful images, good luck!



This is super helpful, thank you! Paper cutouts is also a great idea - visually, the 76-84% seems to be in the right direction...I figured if I kept a range, I’d be more likely to find a well matched pair!
 

annagene12

Shiny_Rock
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Sep 13, 2019
Messages
440
I actually reached out to Caysie - she said 6x4 would be best size if I like the ratio of the Jaime I showed

Rose cuts seem like such a different ball game...


hmmm...wonder if it will give the coverage I’m after
:twisted2:
 

dk168

Ideal_Rock
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I find 2D drawings help me when deciding on shape and/or size of 3-stone rings.

DK :))
 

junebug17

Super_Ideal_Rock
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I actually reached out to Caysie - she said 6x4 would be best size if I like the ratio of the Jaime I showed

Rose cuts seem like such a different ball game...


hmmm...wonder if it will give the coverage I’m after
:twisted2:
You could always go to 7 mm for the extra coverage! There's no right or wrong here. And the bezels will give you a little more coverage too.
 

annagene12

Shiny_Rock
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Sep 13, 2019
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440
It sounds like I need to use my art skills and do some drawings - and cutouts!!! Translating scale is not my forte - ie I doubt I could do a drawing to scale very easily...but I will try!

The final piece of the puzzle - price!!!

I asked Caysie to give me a rough sense of budget - I don’t even know what approximate carat weight of a 6x4 or 7x5 rose cut would be!!!

I started poking around the Internet...but I’m struggling to find clear guidance
 

ecf8503

Ideal_Rock
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3,765
Honestly, I'd trust Caysie's eye - once she has your stone in hand, she can really "see" what size side stones complement it, and what type of cut. Fwiw, I have a rose cut from her, and mine is pretty flat. The bezels themselves will add some width as well.
 

annagene12

Shiny_Rock
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Sep 13, 2019
Messages
440
Honestly, I'd trust Caysie's eye - once she has your stone in hand, she can really "see" what size side stones complement it, and what type of cut. Fwiw, I have a rose cut from her, and mine is pretty flat. The bezels themselves will add some width as well.
Thanks for the tip! I do love the proportions of a lot of what I see on her IG, which makes me optimistic! Do you have a double sided rose cut? I'd love to see your rose cut from her!

She also said it might take time to source a matching pair - makes sense.

I looked around for a chart and found nothing that standardized for weight to mm but this is what she shared:
  1. 7x5mm oval rose cuts would be 1.4-1.5 ctw
  2. 6x4mm oval rose cuts will be 1.2-1.4 ctw
I wonder if rose cut pricing is the same for MRBs or anything else...but once I get a comp budget - I gotta start saving more aggressively!!!
 

annagene12

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
440
Well - I found images of the Jaime setting I was arfter with a sapphire in it - it didn't have rose cut side stones obviously - but it really didn't strike me at all! Unfortunate. Might be a setting a revisit with diamonds only.

Screen Shot 2020-07-17 at 3.00.12 PM.png Screen Shot 2020-07-17 at 3.00.04 PM.png

Back to the drawing board! I think I might look at something more art deco...like cadillac or shield cuts!

This one really stood out - I think it is SO COOL! I want something a little funky! The changes I would make - probably bezel or semi-bezel around the sapphire, and I have been hankering for champagne / light brown colored side stones, and would want a taper to the baguettes.

Has anyone seen other settings like this that might provide some inspiration?


IMG-2338.jpg

IMG-2337.jpg
 

elizat

Ideal_Rock
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Mar 23, 2013
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I have a cushion cut spinel with cadi sides. But it's not the oval you have and it's bigger. Don't know if that is helpful.
 

annagene12

Shiny_Rock
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Sep 13, 2019
Messages
440
I have a cushion cut spinel with cadi sides. But it's not the oval you have and it's bigger. Don't know if that is helpful.
Yes! I would love to see! I have read that cadis are hard to find...I am hoping not impossible to find a light brown pair!
 

annagene12

Shiny_Rock
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Sep 13, 2019
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@annagene12 my cadis came from Jasmine Jade Boutique on IG. Her bench did setting too. It's simple and streamlined, but super fair price.
I will have to check them out!

Now I have looked around - I stumbled across french cut stones.

My word. I had no IDEA how lovely they were! The way they shimmer - reminds me of rose cuts but a bit more oomph. I am head over heels and of course they seem difficult to come by without a steep premium! I may have to save my pennies to really get the setting I want - or may get a french cut band with cadillac side stones...so many choices!
 

elizat

Ideal_Rock
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2,020
I will have to check them out!

Now I have looked around - I stumbled across french cut stones.

My word. I had no IDEA how lovely they were! The way they shimmer - reminds me of rose cuts but a bit more oomph. I am head over heels and of course they seem difficult to come by without a steep premium! I may have to save my pennies to really get the setting I want - or may get a french cut band with cadillac side stones...so many choices!
I have had French cuts before. Unless they are a good size where you can see the facet pattern, not worth the premium imo.
 

elrohwen

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 20, 2008
Messages
5,481
I’m working on a sapphire three stone ring right now. After looking at a lot of rings I really prefer the 84% diameter ratio, especially if the center stone isn’t enormous. Mine is rounds but I would’ve done something similar in ovals. Also doing a bezel.

My sapphire is 5.7mm and my side stones are 4.6mm. 84% would be 4.8mm sidestones but I already had the 4.6mm OECs as earrings so it seemed like a good chance to use them (and upgrade my earrings!). They look a little big here because they’re bezeled and the center stone isn’t.
5EDBF62F-28C5-447F-8DE4-C9630060511E.jpeg
 

annagene12

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
440
I’m working on a sapphire three stone ring right now. After looking at a lot of rings I really prefer the 84% diameter ratio, especially if the center stone isn’t enormous. Mine is rounds but I would’ve done something similar in ovals. Also doing a bezel.

My sapphire is 5.7mm and my side stones are 4.6mm. 84% would be 4.8mm sidestones but I already had the 4.6mm OECs as earrings so it seemed like a good chance to use them (and upgrade my earrings!). They look a little big here because they’re bezeled and the center stone isn’t.
5EDBF62F-28C5-447F-8DE4-C9630060511E.jpeg
Oh this is lovely!!! I have found it is also hard to see many examples with a bezel...
 

elrohwen

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 20, 2008
Messages
5,481
Oh this is lovely!!! I have found it is also hard to see many examples with a bezel...
Thanks! I’m super excited to see how it turns out. It should be done in 6-7 weeks assuming I can get the stones sent out soon. I also had a really hard time finding inspiration pics. There was a good thread here that I pulled some ideas off of including these two pictures (not PSer rings as far as I know, I think the first was someone’s antique find and the other is Erstwhile). The plan is for my ring to have the tri wire shank of the first ring and the filigree (though it will be more well done) of the second. It was especially hard to find profile views of three stone bezels to figure out what I liked
120725D3-C61B-4050-B36C-B1BCE8CB9589.png
DCC62058-A823-4B06-A2DE-C308AE76582F.png
 

elrohwen

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 20, 2008
Messages
5,481
And Uppie’s JM three stone was what sold me on the 84% diameter ratio. She had a 0.8ct center and around 0.4ct on each side which I love. It’s such a good look for bezels when all three are fairly close in size.
 

annagene12

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
440
Oh I enjoy both as well! So excited to see your final ring! I love the color of that sapphire!

Of course now I am rethinking the "kind" of style - after seeing the Jaime with the oval sapphire I really didn't find as appealing and many of the inspo rings I had found, which i am now seeing were exclusively cushions / rounds...I love the look with rounds and cushions and thought it would translate to oval, but now I don't think i like it, for whatever reason.

I expect I will end up more in the "geometric" direction now, and am even leaning east west because of the oval shape - like with trapezoids, cadillac, maybe an arrangement of baguettes....or tapered french cuts (which now has my heart...)
 

elrohwen

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 20, 2008
Messages
5,481
I looove east west. I ordered three sapphires and thought I’d end up with the elongated cushion and I planned to set east west. But the round was the much better stone.

I know what you mean, I also struggled with what to do with the cushion if I got it. The round was much easier to just go with round side stones.

What about half moons? Though I also love the idea of something with harder edges to off set the roundness of the oval.
 

annagene12

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
440
I looove east west. I ordered three sapphires and thought I’d end up with the elongated cushion and I planned to set east west. But the round was the much better stone.

I know what you mean, I also struggled with what to do with the cushion if I got it. The round was much easier to just go with round side stones.

What about half moons? Though I also love the idea of something with harder edges to off set the roundness of the oval.
yes - rounds are a bit simpler, aren't they? hah! i actually had initially been drawn slightly more to rounds and cushions, but the color on the oval was outta this world and i don't regret it one bit.

And yes i thought about half moons! I think they are so COOL but I like them with north south, not so much east west....it might be a good option if i go north south - of course i might always ditch my current east west fancy if the mood strikes me - i wish picking jewelry could be more scientific but it is all a matter of heart for me :lol:

of course any diamond i pick - i really want lower colors. i will have to see what is available / or get custom cut...I like M or below, which i haven't seen many true "side stones" in those colors.

that is actually what led me to french cut. if i have to get something custom, wait a long time, pay a decent chunk of change...may as well get frenchies! (so i am telling myself) - the more i looked around on PS at them, the more i fell in love. admittedly - although it seems like a terrible situation with Leon - i do love the ring in this thread
 
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