Help! Antique Emerald Cut ASET

[diamondhoarder]

I'd love to get some input from vintage diamond owners/ experts

I have found an elongated antique emerald cut with a small table and high crown, and have just seen the ASET, but it is not quite as I expected. There seems to be less red and more green than I would have hoped. I'm also not sure about the black - is that also contrast in addition to the blue? I'm wondering if the ASET could be misleading as I had understood that that an antique cut diamond with good proportions should have lovely light return.

Table: 52, depth 68 girdle ex thin to slightly thick. Ratio 1.4.



I don't want to link to the vendor's page to avoid the risk of someone else snagging it. But I can say that in the video the light seems to move really nicely across all the facets and there are no dull areas under the table.

This would be an international purchase with taxes/ duties etc so I want to avoid the need to return it if at all possible.

Can any antique emerald/ asscher owners chime in on the question of ASETs? Did you get one for your stone and was it a good indicator of real life performance?

My previous diamond purchases (of modern cut stones) always had a lot more red in the ASET and they turned out great, so I'm nervous on this one.

 

[Matthews1127]

I'd love to get some input from vintage diamond owners/ experts

I have found an elongated antique emerald cut with a small table and high crown, and have just seen the ASET, but it is not quite as I expected. There seems to be less red and more green than I would have hoped. I'm also not sure about the black - is that also contrast in addition to the blue? I'm wondering if the ASET could be misleading as I had understood that that an antique cut diamond with good proportions should have lovely light return.

Table: 52, depth 68 girdle ex thin to slightly thick. Ratio 1.4.



I don't want to link to the vendor's page to avoid the risk of someone else snagging it. But I can say that in the video the light seems to move really nicely across all the facets and there are no dull areas under the table.

This would be an international purchase with taxes/ duties etc so I want to avoid the need to return it if at all possible.

Can any antique emerald/ asscher owners chime in on the question of ASETs? Did you get one for your stone and was it a good indicator of real life performance?

My previous diamond purchases (of modern cut stones) always had a lot more red in the ASET and they turned out great, so I'm nervous on this one.

Not an expert, but it’s my understanding that antique cut EC’s & step cut diamonds didn’t have precise dimensions, as technology didn’t exist, like it does, now. Therefore, they were not cut as well as modern step cuts. Even today, finding an extremely well cut step cut diamond is a challenge. IMO, this ASET looks great for an antique!! The green would indicate more contrast than brightness, but I’m certain it’s lively in person!
Perhaps, others will chime in!

 

[diamondhoarder]

Not an expert, but it’s my understanding that antique cut EC’s & step cut diamonds didn’t have precise dimensions, as technology didn’t exist, like it does, now. Therefore, they were not cut as well as modern step cuts. Even today, finding an extremely well cut step cut diamond is a challenge. IMO, this ASET looks great for an antique!! The green would indicate more contrast than brightness, but I’m certain it’s lively in person!
Perhaps, others will chime in!

Thanks Matthews1127, that's helpful feedback.

My hopes for this diamond is that it will have plenty of blocky dispersion and no annoying drab areas. I love to see colored light in my diamonds and I have been waiting a long time for just the right step cut that will perform this way.

I already have a squarish EC (in my avatar) and the ASET for that was nearly all red and green and it didn't disappoint in person. And I want the new one to perform just as well or better. I'm wondering if the ratio of 1.4 on the antique stone is making it more prone to leakage and less brightness than if it was squarer?

 

[Matthews1127]

Thanks Matthews1127, that's helpful feedback.

My hopes for this diamond is that it will have plenty of blocky dispersion and no annoying drab areas. I love to see colored light in my diamonds and I have been waiting a long time for just the right step cut that will perform this way.

I already have a squarish EC (in my avatar) and the ASET for that was nearly all red and green and it didn't disappoint in person. And I want the new one to perform just as well or better. I'm wondering if the ratio of 1.4 on the antique stone is making it more prone to leakage and less brightness than if it was squarer?

Antique Cuts are a bit more difficult. Step cuts, in general are tricky, but antique cuts have a whole different flair. They weren’t cut for procision, but their chunky facets really do bring a light show!!

 

[Karl_K]

"girdle ex thin" where and how much?
Its a durability issue.

Its also not typical EC with offset and long windmills.

 

[Karl_K]

The green would indicate more contrast than brightness, but I’m certain it’s lively in person!
Perhaps, others will chime in!

Green is light from low levels below 45 degrees(off axis related to the table) not contrast.
Given the lighting of the day the best of the old cuts show more green because off axis lighting was the norm.

 

[Matthews1127]

Green is light from low levels below 45 degrees(off axis related to the table) not contrast.
Given the lighting of the day the best of the old cuts show more green because off axis lighting was the norm.

This still should not create “leakage”, should it?

 

[Karl_K]

Black in ASET images with a white background is areas that are drawing light from the viewing hole in the middle of the scope.

 

[Karl_K]

This still should not create “leakage”, should it?

Not sure I understand what your asking.

 

[Karl_K]

This is one of those stones that needs to be seen in person and how it reacts dynamically under movement.
However the ex thin girdle is a red flag that needs to be clarified.

 

[Matthews1127]

Not sure I understand what your asking.

It should appear dark, is probably what I’m trying to say....
Or should it?
I’m following what you’re saying about the thin girdle. OP may be better off passing on this EC. Just trying to understand the differences between antique EC eval & Modern EC eval.

 

[Karl_K]

It should appear dark, is probably what I’m trying to say....
Or should it?
I’m following what you’re saying about the thin girdle. OP may be better off passing on this EC. Just trying to understand the differences between antique EC eval & Modern EC eval.

ASET theory states that light from the red zone is the brightest light sources.
Which is true in a store with overhead lighting or outside in the open.
Not so true in your house or near windows during the day in any building then the green zone lighting will likely be the brightest.

As far as antique vs modern im more tolerant of static more greens and blues and bit more leakage in antique.
Dynamic aka moving the requirement should be the same, knock your socks off scintillation with virtual facets flashing on and off.

 

[Matthews1127]

ASET theory states that light from the red zone is the brightest light sources.
Which is true in a store with overhead lighting or outside in the open.
Not so true in your house or near windows during the day in any building then the green zone lighting will likely be the brightest.

As far as antique vs modern im more tolerant of static more greens and blues and bit more leakage in antique.
Dynamic aka moving the requirement should be the same, knock your socks off scintillation with virtual facets flashing on and off.

Thank you for the explanation!!

 

[diamondhoarder]

Thanks Karl K for your helpful inputs here. Based on your feedback I am less concerned about the ASET now but more concerned about the girdle issue. On the GIA plot there are a couple of extra facets indicated on two of the corners. I am wondering if it is these where the girdle is thinnest, or maybe these are the two thicker areas.

With the extremely thin girdle does this mean the only safe to set this would be to bezel it?

 

[OoohShiny]

Place it on hold and post a link to a video if it exists!

 

[rockysalamander]

For thin girdles, bezels are the best option (or prong in bezel if the stone is sunk into the setting -- there are some lovely octagon bezels that would be stunning. The choice of the vendor to set the stone is equally important to be sure they have experience with antique diamonds and thin girdles. The extra facets would not worry me on a well-performing antique. Video would be more helpful as @Karl_K and @OoohShiny mentioned.

 

[Doc_1]

Looking at the ASET, the diamond seems to lack on the west side, it is good north , south , east but the west has a lot of leakage (white areas) also all the step 4 corners of pavilion are leakage (also white) with the culet (however culet may not distract does not look large).
Likely what you will see in person will reflect what you are seeing in ASET.

 

[diamondhoarder]

I decided to pass on this diamond due to the extremely thin girdle. I just couldn't take the risk of damage during setting or through normal wear.