Height of New 5 Stone Bezel Ring

[starbrite]

For our anniversary, my husband promised me a custom designed 3 stone diamond ring. Not really certain of what I'd like in profile design, I decided to put that ring on hold for now. Instead, I've opted to first work with a jeweler on a 5 stone bezel ring instead.


Because I wanted a lot of stone presence - but not have the stones go between my fingers - the ring designer suggested 40 points each stone for a total of 2 carets. My inspiration was a combination of vintage 5 stone bezel rings. Top bezel with delicate milgrain around the rim of each bezel. An etched floral design in the side of that top section. Then an open space with filigree. Followed by a bottom section (against the finger) being open in the back (toward the finger). I hope my description makes sense to readers.

After two months of working with a jewelry designer, we finally reached the point where the computer generated models were somewhat what I envisioned. Still, I wasn't certain enough to move forward to have the ring made. So she sent me a plastic model to look at. The model is very low set. It is lower than what I was expecting. This version would be perfect to wear as a wedding band. However, most of the detail (filigree & etching) gets lost. The filigree is there in the plastic model, but you can't really see it without holding the ring up and inspecting very closely. I was hoping to be able to see the gallery details while I was wearing the ring. In this extremely low set version, you really can't. The detail just blends in & gets lost.

I've been reading PriceScope for several months to try to get ring ideas. Most everyone seems to feel the lower a ring like this the better. Is there a reason for that? The jeweler said that she can raise the gallery but wouldn't recommend it. Her reason is that a higher bezel ring couldn't be worn with another ring.

However, I won't be wearing this 5 stone ring with the 3 stone one that I will be having made in the future. This 5 stone bezel ring will be a stand alone that can be worn by itself as a wedding band sometimes or more often as a RHR. I also envision pairing it with a skinny band ring that I would like to get to go along with the future 3 stone ring.

The height of the plastic model is currently 3mm. The general lines flow nicely. However, I can't see any of the profile details that I was hoping would make this ring a bit more special. Everything is squashed down together. To see things more clearly, the height of the head would have to be raised to create more space.

However, I'm wary of making such changes when almost everyone else seems to feel the lower the better. Is there a reason for that?

Because of the COVID situation, I can’t get out to jewelry stores to try bunch of rings on to see what things may look like. Everything must be done via the Internet. That makes custom designing a ring rather difficult.

Does anyone have any suggestions and ideas that may help me? This anniversary was a very special one, and I'm eager get a new ring on my hand that I will love forever. Because I also keep my jewelry forever, I don't want to have regrets in my design choices for this ring.

Help!
.

 

[Gussie]

Happy anniversary! How exciting for you! I prefer lower just so there is less chance of banging my ring on something. It feels a lot safer! Your ring sounds like mine. It is as low set as possible but my stones are only 0.3 each and mine is two tone. I adore my 5 stone and it is super comfortable.

 

[starbrite]

Thank you for posting these photos of your beautiful ring. I think I may have recently seen your ring in my search & loved it then. It is very similar to what I'm thinking of having done. I like the open design work of yours very much. Your design work shows a lot more (even with a low profile) than the detail in plastic model that the jeweler sent me.


I have a bezel set, large Blue Topaz solitaire that rises twice as high as the 5 stone bezel model & have never had any problem with banging that on things. The bezel protects the stone. So with the new ring, I'm more worried about esthetics than I am damage from a little higher setting. Comfort is my #1 concern with any ring, but I also don’t think a little more height with this design would bother me.


However, as the head on a 5 stone ring gets higher, I wonder if that would change the graceful curve of the stones across the finger. With a low set ring, the curve seem to organically hug the natural curve of the finger. Your ring does that. So does the plastic model I have here. I like that.



But I don’t like the lack of visible detail between the top and bottom sections of the bezels on the model. I was hoping for something more like your ring.

 

[starbrite]

Gussie, I love the wedding band you chose to go with your 5 stone bezel ring. They go perfectly together.

 

[Big Fat Facets]

congratulations!!

Personally, i prefer low settings and mounting just for ease. Not only do higher mountings easily bang into things/surroundings but for glove wearing a low setting is best ...disposable gloves, winter gloves, driving gloves, etc...

hope that helps!

 

[Gussie]

Thank you! I really love my 5 stone.

Can you snap a picture of your mold and show us? The finished piece is often lots more refined than the mold. Proper finishing may allow the filigree to show more. Here is the CAD drawing for my ring. The height is 4.67, so not as low as yours and my stones are smaller.

 

[starbrite]

The Computerized "sketches" I've gotten from the jeweler doesn't look anything like this. I'll try to post them tomorrow. After I repeatedly asked for ring dimensions, the ring designer said that it would be just easier for her to just send out a plastic model instead.

When I measured the height of the model at home, it came in as a hair under 3mm which is extremely low. The model is dark brown plastic and needs good light to try to photograph it. If it doesn't rain again tomorrow, I'll try to photograph different angles of the model. IMO, the open area with the filigree is just a slit. It's not very open. The filigree is there but you need a magnifying glass to see detail. A photo will show this better.

Our anniversary was back in June & I'm at the point where I now just want to get something on my hand. That's why I temporarily abandoned the 3 stone project that was supposed to be my anniversary gift. This anniversary was a big milestone one. After working with this jeweler on that ring since April, I didn't feel like things were gelling. So I moved on in early August to the idea of a more simple 5 stone ring that I've also been wanting as an everyday diamond ring.

Before I received the plastic model, I thought we were getting close to what I envisioned in the 5 stone bezel. Now, I don't know. I really don't like the flat profile with everything squashed down.

However, I do like your ring; which isn't as low.

My ring size is between a 7 and a 7 1/4 to get over the knuckle. So the 40 point stones seem to be a good size for coverage without going in between the fingers. That size stone is comfortable in the plastic model.

Here's what I told the ring designer: "I am hoping that this 5 stone bezel ring will be super special. Eye catching, but tasteful. I would like it to be a ring that can stand alone; or maybe sometimes even be worn with a more simple, lower diamond band. That's my vision. Sparkle and comfort and visually interesting. If we put a lot of interesting design elements into the profile of this bezel ring, I would like to be able to easily see (and enjoy) these elements while I'm wearing the ring."

Your pretty ring fits that description!!!

 

[starbrite]

congratulations!!

Personally, i prefer low settings and mounting just for ease. Not only do higher mountings easily bang into things/surroundings but for glove wearing a low setting is best ...disposable gloves, winter gloves, driving gloves, etc...

hope that helps!

Thanks for the congrats! This was a milestone anniversary. So I really want a ring that reflects that.

My E-Ring is 9.4mm high & I totally agree about the glove issue. But otherwise that higher ring design has always been super comfortable and never catches on things. I've worn it every day (night & day) since I first got it. That's been years & years. Before now, I considered that a medium high setting. Admittedly, it's the highest set ring I own. But it's never seemed "high"; except when it comes to wearing gloves. I use my hands a lot to the point where I can't keep pretty, long nails. Still, I've never had a problem with banging my higher set E-ring into things. I think that may have a lot to do with the specific ring design. It was custom made years & years ago. It's now just part of my hand.

Newer designs now seem to be trending toward super low. I have no problem with that. In fact, I own a white and blue diamond pave ring that literally hugs the finger. There is no profile really. Just the sparkle of diamonds. However, I'd be afraid of wearing gloves with it for fear of knocking stones loose.

Having had both higher set and very low set rings, my main concern now is design and comfort. Getting this new 5 stone ring to be "just right" has me uncertain as what to do. The jeweler that has been working with me so far said that she can raise the profile height but I would advise against it. If I didn't want to see details in the profile design when the ring is on my hand, the extremely low rise would be okay. But I'm not happy with the plastic model she sent me.

 

[headlight]

My only suggestion is that you don’t go forward until you feel totally certain that the ring will be what you want. I fear you feel such a sense of urgency to get the ring that you will settle for something not your vision and be disappointed. Also, it seems the jeweler is not able to execute your vision.

 

[Big Fat Facets]

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a few 5 stone rings with decorative design aspect to the profile....

 

[starbrite]

Here are the most recent computer generated images of the proposed 5 stone bezel ring that the jewelry designer sent me. Although I still wasn't 100% completely happy with them, they were better than the original design. They do have elements I like. Some minor changes were made since these images. Like larger openings

behind the channel set stones on the band. The plastic model reflects those changes. But I have no other computer images that show these minor changes. I'll try to take a photo of the plastic model later today. Even before the plastic model came, I was hoping for a slightly more airy profile (with the filigree) and less metal on the bottom.

Maybe I didn't communicate that well enough to the ring designer. As part of the design, I want to also have a floral design engraved into the sides of the top bezels. The jeweler knows that. Then, the airy filigree under that. Probably more open with the filigree than in the computer images. Not a lot of discussion was done concerning the metal nearer the finger; other than I wanted large openings toward the finger for ease in cleaning. I just assumed the jeweler would know best how to handle everything.

Although the jeweler was told my ring size, I was not given any dimensions concerning this ring other than stone size. From the plastic model, the 40 point stones seem right. That size stone is comfortable and curve nicely (without going between the fingers). But I say that based on the very low profile plastic model. I don't know what would happen if the profile gets raised.

This ring on paper has elements I like. It wasn't perfect yet, but I could see fine tuning the design. The plastic model also has elements I like, but I hate everything being so squashed down together. With such an extremely low profile, I also wonder if any of the detail of added etched flowers will really show. The filigree doesn't really. It's there on the plastic model, but it's not easy to see.

 

[elrohwen]

I actually like the low height, but agree that there is too much metal going on both on the bezels and under the filigree. I don't know if this is a byproduct of the CAD and it will look more delicate in real life? I wouldn't be happy with that much metal either. I'm having a similar ring made right now (though a 3 stone) but I don't have the final height yet

 

[NicoleNeedsHelp]

Stick with what you like! I think you know what you want, but are letting what others have change your mind. If you want your ring set higher, do it because it will be beautiful and unique! You want to see those etched flowers, so raise it up!

 

[Cerulean]

It sounds like you just don't care for the profile being as low as it is. I don't think making it a smidge taller is going to harm function. You should get what you like. If you already have a high set ring, I highly doubt you will be bothered by a little more height.

If it makes sense, the really low setting makes it look more like a band, and less like a 5-stone. I would also want it a little higher.

 

[Gussie]

IMO, I think there is too much metal at the bottom, near the finger. I think that metal needs to be trimmed down and the filigree expanded a bit.

I do remember David Klass telling me that if he made my ring any lower, the detail would be lost. (I had asked for even lower). So yours is probably too low to see any detail.

Also, don't sign off on the design until you are completely happy with it, even if it takes longer.

 

[molecule]

IMO, I think there is too much metal at the bottom, near the finger. I think that metal needs to be trimmed down and the filigree expanded a bit.

I think this depends on if you're planning on stacking the 5 stone, if you are, that metal surface may bump up the filigree to eye level above where the other band would go.

 

[dmack]

Are these two different rings? The bottom one has at least seven stones and a closed basket.

Agree with others. Shrink the metal at the top of the bezel and then you have room to make the filigree bigger. See crappy mockup.

 

[starbrite]

Are these two different rings? The bottom one has at least seven stones and a closed basket.

Agree with others. Shrink the metal at the top of the bezel and then you have room to make the filigree bigger. See crappy mockup.

You're right. I added one photo of original computer image (in which there were bezels all the way around) and not the one where I had asked for a 5 stone ring.

Here's the correct image:

 

[starbrite]

 

[starbrite]

You're right. I added one photo of original computer image (in which there were bezels all the way around) and not the one where I had asked for a 5 stone ring.

 

[molecule]

I would ask for clarification on if they intend to apply the milgrain by hand or in the CAD

 

[starbrite]

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For Sale on 1stDibs - Offering for sale an antique five stone diamond ring. It is a petite piece, lovely scroll design on the bottom of the gallery.Set with 1x0.10ct 2x0.08ct

www.1stdibs.com

Bespoke 5-Stone Ring Set with 1.30 Carat Old Cut Diamonds in 18 Carat Gold For Sale at 1stDibs

For Sale on 1stDibs - This Bespoke 5 stone ring is set with graduating round Old Cut* diamonds, approximately 1.30 ct. in total. The scintillation and rainbow colours coming

www.1stdibs.com

Bespoke 5-Stone Ring Set with 1.30 Carat Old Cut Diamonds in 18 Carat Gold For Sale at 1stDibs

For Sale on 1stDibs - This Bespoke 5 stone ring is set with graduating round Old Cut* diamonds, approximately 1.30 ct. in total. The scintillation and rainbow colours coming

www.1stdibs.com

Bespoke 5-Stone Ring Set with 1.30 Carat Old Cut Diamonds in 18 Carat Gold For Sale at 1stDibs

For Sale on 1stDibs - This Bespoke 5 stone ring is set with graduating round Old Cut* diamonds, approximately 1.30 ct. in total. The scintillation and rainbow colours coming

www.1stdibs.com

a few 5 stone rings with decorative design aspect to the profile....

Pretty Ring. There is definitely appeal in a vintage setting.

 

[starbrite]

I would ask for clarification on if they intend to apply the milgrain by hand or in the CAD

I just assumed the milgrain would be added to the finished ring by hand as the last step. However,you're right that I need to ask. When I mentioned that I wanted more delicate milgrain than in the computer images, she said "we can take care of that later".

Supposedly, everything will be more refined than in the computerized images; which I actually found to be rather course. That's part of the reason why the ring designer eventually sent the plastic model. Lucky for me that she did because I wasn't anticipating the gallery to be so low. Nor the detail so minimal. Now, I have more of a better idea of what's going on.

 

[starbrite]

IMO, I think there is too much metal at the bottom, near the finger. I think that metal needs to be trimmed down and the filigree expanded a bit.

I do remember David Klass telling me that if he made my ring any lower, the detail would be lost. (I had asked for even lower). So yours is probably too low to see any detail.

Also, don't sign off on the design until you are completely happy with it, even if it takes longer.

I tend to agree with you that there may be more metal than necessary near the band. I really like the way your ring was done.

 

[starbrite]

I think this depends on if you're planning on stacking the 5 stone, if you are, that metal surface may bump up the filigree to eye level above where the other band would go.

My head is spinning. I would like to have the option to wear a skinny diamond band with the 5 stone bezel ring on occasion. But most of the time, the bezel ring would be worn solo.

 

[starbrite]

It sounds like you just don't care for the profile being as low as it is. I don't think making it a smidge taller is going to harm function. You should get what you like. If you already have a high set ring, I highly doubt you will be bothered by a little more height.

If it makes sense, the really low setting makes it look more like a band, and less like a 5-stone. I would also want it a little higher.

This is what I tried to explain to the ring designer. I don't want just a band. But maybe she thought I did. Communications have been somewhat difficult.

Originally, we did briefly discuss more and much smaller, graduated bezels that would have been a band. However I changed my mind (the next day) to do the 5 stone ring instead. I've always wanted a 5 stone ring. I had became too overwhelmed (after 4 months of getting nowhere) to continue to move forward with the larger 3 stone ring. So that was put on temporary hold. Then for a day, I considered getting just a small bezel band to at least get something on my hand. Our anniversary was over a month behind us by then. But my husband immediately agreed to my getting a 5 stone, 2 caret bezel ring like I really wanted The very brief bezel band idea was completely very quickly dropped.

I did tell the jeweler that I had decided to also get a 3rd ring; a slender diamond band (probably channel set) that I can wear with whatever: the 5 stone & the proposed, future 3 stone ring; plus some of my colored gemstones. That would be my band. But maybe she somehow missed all that.

As it is, I feel the 5 stone plastic model is too "fat" to be worn with a bigger ring; even if I did want it as a band to wear with another ring. At least on my hand. So the band "look" would be wrong with this particular ring for me. But when the model wasn't what I really wanted, I was almost willing to compromise to at least have something.

 

[starbrite]

Happy anniversary! How exciting for you! I prefer lower just so there is less chance of banging my ring on something. It feels a lot safer! Your ring sounds like mine. It is as low set as possible but my stones are only 0.3 each and mine is two tone. I adore my 5 stone and it is super comfortable.

Can I send my jeweler your photos? I really like your ring.

 

[starbrite]

Here's the model on my finger. It's really low.

I can see knuckle hair (Eeeek!!!) clearer than ring details. I've never noticed the hair before.

 

[Gussie]

Can I send my jeweler your photos? I really like your ring.

Yes, of course!

 

[Cerulean]

Here's the model on my finger. It's really low.

I can see knuckle hair (Eeeek!!!) clearer than ring details. I've never noticed the hair before.

Oh yes I see what you mean exactly. Far too squat for my tastes too.

i am sorry that communication with your jeweler has been tricky. Sometimes we just don’t hit it off as well with certain jewelers, or have really different ideas to solve a problem. I wonder if this jeweler will respond better to photos than verbal descriptions. It is stressful though when you have a vision, and can’t quite get someone to see it with you!