Found dream 2ct+ OMC, need setting advice!

[acv123]

Hi all!
Both my boyfriend and I posted a few weeks ago about our search for my dream OMC and I finally found one! I plan to have David Klass make the setting but I'm having trouble deciding a few things about the design. I really like the look of antique Georgian rings with what I believe is called a collet or cut down setting. From the top view it looks like a bezel with small prongs. I'd like the back of the ring to be open to let light in since I'm worried that covered the girdle may reduce sparkle and I'd like the wedding band to sit as flush as possible. Before I post options you'll have to excuse me for doing a photo dump of images of the stone itself. I purchased it an an auction and though it's uncerted it was examined by their in house appraiser who determined its a 2.4 carat OMC, M/N Color, Measuring 8.3 x 8.00 x 5.3mm.

My first question is should I set it East-West? Right now its set North-South. Any reason the diamond won't look its best is set South-West.

Setting options to come!

Thanks for reading (and looking!)
Can't figure out how to put a link so you can see the video larger

compared here to a 1carat cubic zirconia




FYI
Here's my boyfriends old post:https://www.pricescope.com/communit...this-2ct-antique-cushion.235097/#post-4237769

and mine: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/old-mine-cut-diamond-advice-needed.234544/#post-4224689

 

[jaaron]

What a gorgeous diamond! I personally love east-west settings, so I'd definitely say yes to that. Can you post a few inspiration photos? Is Victor Canera's Evelyn what you would consider a collet setting?

 

[Matthews1127]

Beautiful stone! An open gallery will allow enough light in to keep that sparkler lively! E-W will be stunning!! Congratulations on an outstanding find!!!
Please post inspiration settings!! I’d love to see your ideas!!

 

[tyty333]

I like the east-west view...beautiful stone! Cant wait to see what you pick out for the setting!

 

[yennyfire]

Gorgeous stone! Congrats on your engagement! I like the idea of E/W too! What about something like this? It's a little more detailed than a simple collet setting, though it may not be your cup of tea....I think you could do something like this and still have the bottom open (not like the photo) to let light in, allow for cleaning, etc.

 

[doberman]

What a lovely stone! I have an OMC that is very similar to yours (3.2ct N) but I have to go against the grain and say that I don't like the E-W setting. It just looks "off" to me.

 

[Tourmaline]

Lovely stone! I like North/South.

 

[Bonfire]

I fall into the N/S camp. Beautiful as is! (Very pretty stone). To me it looks more cushiony N/S. Do what you like best!

 

[babs23r]

Beautiful stone. Would making it east west look more cushiony? If so, I like that!

 

[acv123]

What a gorgeous diamond! I personally love east-west settings, so I'd definitely say yes to that. Can you post a few inspiration photos? Is Victor Canera's Evelyn what you would consider a collet setting?

Thank you! I hadn't seen the Evelyn before but after looking it up it seems like you wouldn't be able to see the metal from above so i don't think so. Will post photos shortly!

 

[derbygal]

I like it both ways. Just wanted to say it is a stunning stone. I love it! Congrats.

 

[acv123]

@Matthews1127 @tyty333 Thank you!

@doberman @Tourmaline @Bonfire Thank you for your input! I know what you mean! I like it both ways! Can someone invent a setting that lets you swivel the diamond around? I think the N/S orientation makes it a little more sparkly because the light sort of rakes over the longer surface area when you put your hand out (if that makes sense!) In the E/W orientation the light doesn't have as much surface area to go across if you wave your hand front to back. Sorry I know that sounds crazy!
Needles to say still undecided!


Here are some pics of the setting options, either way it will be in 14k gold which seems to suit my hand better than platinum or white gold (the stone is currently set in platinum). I'd like for the band to be plain and flat or ever so lightly rounded. I'd love your feedback on both and whether one might suit a N/S or E/W orientation better. Thanks again!

Option 1: Collet
The first is the collet setting I mentioned. I want the collet to sit pretty flush with the girdle so that the profile doesn't get much larger than the diamond and I'd like the bottom to be open for light and cleaning as @yennyfire mentioned. Here are some inspiration images.
I like how flush the colett is to the stone here.


like the open pavilion.




Option 2: 6-8 Prong
Not sure what to call this, seems like a somewhat more traditional prong setting with pieces that connect the prongs to eachother and make it look more like a bezel when looking down at the stone from above. I like that in this option more of the girdle is visible and thus the diamond could seem more sparkly. My worry about prongs is that my hair will get stuck in them all the time!

I really like the top view of this! I would get it with a plain band rather than the scroll work and extra diamonds on this one.


You can see here the prongs are pretty short.



I like the lattice effect of the pieces connecting the prongs to eachother.

 

[KKJohnson]

You can have a bridge added to allow your wedding band to sit flush, DK can do a low setting so the stones not sit high. He just did that for my marquise I am having him reset for me and it’s really comfortable. If you want light return from the bottom I would keep the bridge solid and only have the opening under the center stone

 

[Bonfire]

Gosh I may need to revise my opinion The inspiration rings you posted with E-W orientations are gorgeous! Really tough decision.

 

[valeria101]

.

Dissenting,

I would not mind a modern, open settig with a stone like this: the diamond delivers a random ball of sparkle & a closed setting would prevent much of this .

Yet, of course I love the old school collets ! This stone might as well have been in one of those once upon a time ... Plenty of great references in the historical diamond jewels.

 

[lalala]

Gorgeous stone! I like E/W for a RHR and N/S for an e-ring. Just my 2 cents

 

[foxinsox]

I love it E/W a fraction more than N/S but it’s close! I think it will look gorgeous either way.
If you’d like to know what effect an enclosed setting would have, get some tinfoil and wrap the pavilion up to the girdle in it. You’ll find out pretty quickly if that sort of setting works for your stone or not.
Good luck working it out! What a fun dilemma to have. Your stone is lovely

 

[AprilBaby]

I prefer the N/S but I’m a freak about symetry and direction. I’m sure it will be gorgeous either way.

 

[Tourmaline]

I love collet settings!

 

[acv123]

You can have a bridge added to allow your wedding band to sit flush, DK can do a low setting so the stones not sit high. He just did that for my marquise I am having him reset for me and it’s really comfortable. If you want light return from the bottom I would keep the bridge solid and only have the opening under the center stone

Thanks @KKJohnson what does the bridge look like? i'm not sure I can visualize it.

 

[acv123]

I love it E/W a fraction more than N/S but it’s close! I think it will look gorgeous either way.
If you’d like to know what effect an enclosed setting would have, get some tinfoil and wrap the pavilion up to the girdle in it. You’ll find out pretty quickly if that sort of setting works for your stone or not.
Good luck working it out! What a fun dilemma to have. Your stone is lovely

Thank you! Good idea, I'm going to try this tonight, it's like a fun art project. I do really like the outline of the ring so maybe it would be a shame to cover that up.

 

[KKJohnson]

Thanks @KKJohnson what does the bridge look like? i'm not sure I can visualize it.

 

[acv123]

Ohh i see! This diagram is so helpful, it also taught me what a gallery rail is which is what I think my option 2 has, just slightly curved and decorative.

 

[doberman]

View attachment 601654
This is my OMC in that type of setting. Are you set on 14kt? Because the color of 18kt is richer and works very well with these color stones.

 

[acv123]

.

Dissenting,

I would not mind a modern, open settig with a stone like this: the diamond delivers a random ball of sparkle & a closed setting would prevent much of this .

Yet, of course I love the old school collets ! This stone might as well have been in one of those once upon a time ... Plenty of great references in the historical diamond jewels.

I think you're right about the light delivery on this stone. I tried putting a fake bezel on with tinfoil and the stone seemed to darken somehow. I'll post a video shortly.

 

[acv123]

Hi again! Per @foxinsox recommendation I wrapped tin foil around the girdle of the stone and took a before and after video. It seemed to me that the diamond darkened quite a bit and greenish tones were brought out but maybe thats just the foil. I've posted a before and after video below. The first 15 seconds show the stone without a "bezel" and the second 15 seconds with. This is encouraging me to go the prong route unless DK says the girdle needs to be protected for some reason!

Has anyone observed whether bezel's change the appearance of the stone somehow?

Thank you!

you can see here it looks darker even though its still sparkling.

 

[acv123]

View attachment 601654
This is my OMC in that type of setting. Are you set on 14kt? Because the color of 18kt is richer and works very well with these color stones.

That's beautiful! Not set on 14K thats just what my current everyday rings are. Is 18k more yellow?

 

[acv123]

I also had some time to think about the N/S vs E/W debate and decided to see what I could whip up in photoshop. Definitely not an expert, so excuse the somewhat rudimentary renderings.


Left Side: East/West
Right Side: North South


North South with a photoshopped "band"


East/West with a photoshopped "band"


If I set it N/W how do I prevent this from happening? It seems to want to swivel to one side. The band is exactly my size so I don't think thats the issue. Maybe setting E/W would prevent it!

Thank you

 

[foxinsox]

It’s swivelling because it’s a big stone (top-heavy ring) and since the shank isn’t very thick there’s not much to grip your skin with. I found my ering did that a lot when it was on its own but does it less now there’s a band next to it which makes the ering fit a bit tighter. But unless you go for a broader shank (which you could do at the bottom if you wanted to keep it narrow near the head), it’s probably going to tip over a bit just because it’s a bigger stone. I think Euro shanks can help minimise that too.
Also re the darkening when enclosed in foil - could you do a collet-style collar so you have the look of it top down and then have an open gallery to let light in? Not sure how to do that gracefully so it doesn’t look clunky but a good ring designer should be able to work out how to do it. Who are you looking to do your ring again?
Ps I really like it set E/W - to my eye it helps emphasise that OMC cushiony shape more than N/S

 

[lalala]

After seeing those pics, I like E/W on you. More finger coverage, too!