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EMW_17

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 18, 2019
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31
Hi All,
I could use help on this CAD. I am looking to create a ring with a halo similar to the Tiffany Soleste, which I was a able to try on at the store with pretty much exactly the same sized center stone as mine so it was perfect for reference. The center stone of the soleste I tried on was 8.3mm (mine is 8.28mm) and the total width was 10.19, so including the metal the melee stones must be less than 1mm. The CAD that was created for me is also 10.19mm in width and is using .8mm melee stones but there are 26 on my CAD instead of 24 on the soleste (if I am counting correctly?) so I’m thinking the soleste melee were a tiny bit bigger? I know I’ve gotten a little lost in the details and I am not concerned that it is an exact replica but rather I want to try and capture the “look”/ proportions of the center stone to the melee. Here are some pictures of the soleste on my finger and here are the CADs.

QUESTIONS: do you think the melee need to be a little bigger - for e.g. 0.9mm or 1mm stones or do you think the .8mm stones are a good choice to achieve the look I am going after? Do you think .8 mm melee will be too small to show much sparkle? Do you think they are so small they will be kind of buried in the metal of the prongs? 647B1AE8-1269-4BF0-B88B-C71192DF3866.jpeg 2C962965-8035-4E97-82A6-15F92B9495A6.jpeg F4CAF314-C6C0-49D4-BFB9-A087CB13390A.jpeg 7F09751D-7350-4819-A3AD-4B3BA8EF5A2F.jpeg ECD3194C-02CC-482A-A06F-1B78F67D64C4.jpeg E02DD105-27B5-4C1A-826F-806056C4AFF2.jpeg Also as I understand The CADs always look more bulky and show more metal than it will in real life....

thank you in advance for any input!
4767833A-56FF-4D18-87D4-C31260326457.jpeg
 

msop04

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Dec 3, 2011
Messages
10,051
I actually think the CADs look pretty spot on. Of course, it depends on who is making the ring as to whether the end result will be what you're looking for.

ETA: who is the jeweler? Is it David Klass? (looks like his CADs)
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
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May 20, 2016
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5,105
The CAD looks in in proportions, but: I see to things I'd change.

(1) The halo of the Soleste is not flat as shown in this CAD. The Soleste (and most custom halos) tilt the halo diamonds down from level by about 20 degrees from level. So the table of the main diamond is parallel to the ground. The tables of the halo stones are not. They are leaning away from the main diamond. This give a much nicer side view and the melee is active at more angles.

From Tiffany
1571508789563.png


IRL from 1st Dibs. Older version with pave set differently, but you can still see the outward tile of the halo stones.
1571508648927.png


(2) the basket under the gallery is not the same shape. Your CAD shows the struts as V-shaped and sitting on the shank. The Soleste has wide set struts that site on a donut. There is not a solid shank. Whichever way you go, if you want to wear a wedding band that is flush to the E-ring, make sure to tell the CAD designer that.

1571509020097.png
 
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EMW_17

Rough_Rock
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Aug 18, 2019
Messages
31
Great! HPD is making the setting. It will actually have a small donut (a little smaller than the soleste) you just can’t see it from that angle. Let me send some more images. Also I asked for the melee to be tilted 20 degrees. They are set by hand so you can’t see it in the CAD. Hopefully these give a bit more perspective? Thank you!! I can’t tell you how much I appreciate people’s feedback on here.
 

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rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
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Great! HPD is making the setting. It will actually have a small donut (a little smaller than the soleste) you just can’t see it from that angle. Let me send some more images. Also I asked for the melee to be tilted 20 degrees. They are set by hand so you can’t see it in the CAD. Hopefully these give a bit more perspective? Thank you!! I can’t tell you how much I appreciate people’s feedback on here.
Great to hear they have both details covered. Just a note that the struts are different. I personally prefer the HPD design better, but it does deviate slightly from the Solete. But, this is your ring and you get to add and change what you like.

My only other observation is that my co-worker wears a Tiffany Soleste with a cushion shaped diamond, but other wise the same design. She wishes she could have had the entire top of the halo and stone set as low as possible. That may or may now be what you want and may or may not suit the band you want. If you have a sense of the band design, you can ask HPD to show a cad with the band with the E-ring to see if you need any tweaks.
 

EMW_17

Rough_Rock
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Aug 18, 2019
Messages
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Do you think it is a concern for the look I’m trying to achieve that the soleste was able to have 24 stones at the same diameter (width) as this CAD with 26? I.e. I am assuming the melee in the soleste is slightly larger and set closer together which is achieving the look of this look? The top down view looks similar to me as pictures I’ve seen of VC’s Emilya setting (see pic of Emilya next to soleste on my hand). I think what I’m getting at is do you think I need to go hand-forged to get that look of the melee set so close together or do you think this CAD will suffice? Are Tiffany rings hand-forged?
 

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msop04

Super_Ideal_Rock
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EMW_17

Rough_Rock
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Aug 18, 2019
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I don't think Tiffany settings are hand forged. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Thank you I’d be really curious to know!
 

EMW_17

Rough_Rock
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Ok thank you!
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
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Ok thank you!
Some of their very high-end pieces may be hand-forged, but most of what you see in their shops are not hand-forged. Also, I bet some of the vintage pieces were.
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
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Do you think it is a concern for the look I’m trying to achieve that the soleste was able to have 24 stones at the same diameter (width) as this CAD with 26? I.e. I am assuming the melee in the soleste is slightly larger and set closer together which is achieving the look of this look? The top down view looks similar to me as pictures I’ve seen of VC’s Emilya setting (see pic of Emilya next to soleste on my hand). I think what I’m getting at is do you think I need to go hand-forged to get that look of the melee set so close together or do you think this CAD will suffice? Are Tiffany rings hand-forged?

You can mention it so HPD, but its a minor difference. I think if they make the melee a bit smaller, they can fit more. Hand forging is always nice and a very wonderful technique. But, you don't need it to achieve this specific look. Hand forging will create a lovely ring, don't get me wrong, but it won't make or break this design. I really think you are in good hands with HPD.
 

EMW_17

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 18, 2019
Messages
31
You can mention it so HPD, but its a minor difference. I think if they make the melee a bit smaller, they can fit more. Hand forging is always nice and a very wonderful technique. But, you don't need it to achieve this specific look. Hand forging will create a lovely ring, don't get me wrong, but it won't make or break this design. I really think you are in good hands with HPD.
That’s great to hear. I love the design. I told them all my detailed desired specs and they did a wonderful job with the CAD. I wanted the gallery just like that- small donut but a bit more robust than the Tiffany gallery, angled melee, soft claw prongs, ucut (verses fishtail on Tiffany), as low set as possible while still having the culet exposed (love seeing it), 1.8mm shank, etc. I think it’s going to be beautiful...I’m probably just over thinking it!
 
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