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Advice for bezel-set sapphire?

tinytiny

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
10
Long-time lurker, first time posting! I've really learned a lot from reading threads on PriceScope for the last several months, especially concerning sapphires -- thanks, everyone! My fiance and I have settled on a 6mm medium-blue, sparkly Ceylon sapphire for my engagement ring and are now thinking of settings.

I've noticed that most rings here are prong-set and/or have elaborate, beautiful diamond halos, and are an absolute delight to look at. Seriously gorgeous! But myself being a petite and low-key kind of girl, I'm thinking of a yellow gold, no halo, maybe pave band, bezel setting for my blue sapphire. I find yellow gold suits my skin tone better, and I'm leaning towards a discreet (not too thick) bezel setting to protect the center stone long term (want to make it a one-time purchase, we're sentimental and are not keen on upgrading anytime), keep it low maintenance (no check-ups for the prongs), and keep it low-set (no snagging on clothes or hair, no knocking it against things). I'd love to wear it daily (aside from exercising, showering, cooking, etc.).

I'm wondering, with a size 2.25 or 2.5 finger, will a bezel set 6mm sapphire be too big or clunky? Would a bezel setting darken the sapphire too much? Should I consider a more open gallery? Would a cathedral setting be advised if the ring is too bulbous and top-heavy?

Any advice on keeping the stone/ring clean, sparkly and pretty with daily wear, in regards to a bezel setting (cup vs. more open gallery)?

I like the delicate and dainty look so am leaning towards a 2mm wide band, but also want to be practical and reduce the possibility of damage/warping. Would a 2mm band be too thin? If I wanted a few pave-set diamonds on each side, would that affect the integrity of the band?

We'll probably go over these questions with the jeweler as well, but as neither me nor my fiance have ever made such an expensive purchase or have experience with gemstones or fine jewelry, your thoughts and advice are much appreciated!
 

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dk168

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
7,028
Size 2.25 to 2.5 US finger?! That's tiny compared to my 8.25 to 8.5 chubby fleshy one!

Lovely stone BTW. :kiss2:

Just throwing some ideas into the mix, how about a 3-stone with 2 round side stones also bezel set instead of a few paved set ones? 2-3mm diamonds (or other CSs like pink Sapphire perhaps?) would be my suggestion.

I bezel everything if I can (lost an expensive stone from a ring that was loaned to me by my mum due to a claw being caught on something during one drunken work event :oops2:), however, not the small side stones or those in a halo which are paved set.

I also prefer low settings, and prefer channel set over paved set (for side stones) as I believe the former is more secure. Therefore, I would suggest channel-setting the side stones if a few smaller side stones are what you desire, instead of paved ones.

How about something like this:

581969

which is the inspiration for my heart shaped blue Zircon:

584314

I do not believe bezel-setting a stone would hugely affect its colour if it is well-cut, however, I could be wrong. Not that it matters as I would always bezel-set the main stones regardless for a peace of mind.

Personal preferences and all that, and I am not an expert by any means.

Enjoy your ring designing process!

DK :))
 

DauphineMucha

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
385
Jealous of your size too! Why do you need a cup when there ain’t a window? Cup is hard to clean.
 

Cerulean

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
728
Here are a few threads to inspire you - I am sure there are more. I love bezels. They are practical, sleek and lovely in their simplicity.

https://www.pricescope.com/communit...taires-in-bezel-settings.198700/#post-3617679

https://www.pricescope.com/communit...rain-bezel-pretty-please.190647/#post-3472619

https://www.pricescope.com/communit...zel-wf-cameron-solitaire.241583/#post-4359080

I expect your stone will darken a smidge. Beautiful stone btw. I would keep the gallery open (DEFINITELY) and the bezel thin to let light in. An open gallery will allow you to clean more easily. You do not need to get a clunky looking bezel. Some are razor thin! I also think milgrain on the bezel can make it look softer and more feminine.

I think it sounds like the bezel style is perfect for your lifestyle and will protect your stone!

Do you like more vintage or modern styles? I could share some specific settings ideas if it helps
 

Daisys and Diamonds

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Apr 30, 2019
Messages
6,194
Long-time lurker, first time posting! I've really learned a lot from reading threads on PriceScope for the last several months, especially concerning sapphires -- thanks, everyone! My fiance and I have settled on a 6mm medium-blue, sparkly Ceylon sapphire for my engagement ring and are now thinking of settings.

I've noticed that most rings here are prong-set and/or have elaborate, beautiful diamond halos, and are an absolute delight to look at. Seriously gorgeous! But myself being a petite and low-key kind of girl, I'm thinking of a yellow gold, no halo, maybe pave band, bezel setting for my blue sapphire. I find yellow gold suits my skin tone better, and I'm leaning towards a discreet (not too thick) bezel setting to protect the center stone long term (want to make it a one-time purchase, we're sentimental and are not keen on upgrading anytime), keep it low maintenance (no check-ups for the prongs), and keep it low-set (no snagging on clothes or hair, no knocking it against things). I'd love to wear it daily (aside from exercising, showering, cooking, etc.).

I'm wondering, with a size 2.25 or 2.5 finger, will a bezel set 6mm sapphire be too big or clunky? Would a bezel setting darken the sapphire too much? Should I consider a more open gallery? Would a cathedral setting be advised if the ring is too bulbous and top-heavy?

Any advice on keeping the stone/ring clean, sparkly and pretty with daily wear, in regards to a bezel setting (cup vs. more open gallery)?

I like the delicate and dainty look so am leaning towards a 2mm wide band, but also want to be practical and reduce the possibility of damage/warping. Would a 2mm band be too thin? If I wanted a few pave-set diamonds on each side, would that affect the integrity of the band?

We'll probably go over these questions with the jeweler as well, but as neither me nor my fiance have ever made such an expensive purchase or have experience with gemstones or fine jewelry, your thoughts and advice are much appreciated!
This sounds gorgouse
I have short pudgy fingers but i love a bezel, i love yellow gold and i love saphires
Really looking forward to seeing how this turns out
I personality like a wider band - remember you want to wear your ring for life (i love that !!)
The diamonds on the band sound pretty without distracting from the sapgire
 

motownmama

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 9, 2008
Messages
7,628
Hi TinyTiny! Perfect name; I never met a size 2 adult!! The stone will not look too big. I think your ideas about a bezel with pave band sounds perfect. I look forward to what designs your jeweler comes up with!
 

Skyjems

Shiny_Rock
Trade
Joined
Jul 9, 2020
Messages
115
I don't understand why anyone would be jealous of small hands.

Tiny tiny can't wear a 35ct aquamarine cocktail ring, those of you who are a size 7/8+++ who are jealous can!

There are advantages to everything! ❤
 

tinytiny

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
10
Size 2.25 to 2.5 US finger?! That's tiny compared to my 8.25 to 8.5 chubby fleshy one!

Lovely stone BTW. :kiss2:

Just throwing some ideas into the mix, how about a 3-stone with 2 round side stones also bezel set instead of a few paved set ones? 2-3mm diamonds (or other CSs like pink Sapphire perhaps?) would be my suggestion.

I bezel everything if I can (lost an expensive stone from a ring that was loaned to me by my mum due to a claw being caught on something during one drunken work event :oops2:), however, not the small side stones or those in a halo which are paved set.

I also prefer low settings, and prefer channel set over paved set (for side stones) as I believe the former is more secure. Therefore, I would suggest channel-setting the side stones if a few smaller side stones are what you desire, instead of paved ones.

How about something like this:

tsavoire-faire12a.gif

which is the inspiration for my heart shaped blue Zircon:

jdbluezirconring01.jpg

I do not believe bezel-setting a stone would hugely affect its colour if it is well-cut, however, I could be wrong. Not that it matters as I would always bezel-set the main stones regardless for a peace of mind.

Personal preferences and all that, and I am not an expert by any means.

Enjoy your ring designing process!

DK :))
Thank you so much, I love this sapphire to bits! And it's heartbreaking to hear what happened to your mom's ring, that's exactly the kind of situation I'd like to avoid. I hadn't considered channel-setting the side stones, thanks for the suggestion. We're thinking of smaller side stones since we're on a tight budget (covid hasn't been good to us this year!) and anything larger than melee might not be affordable (if melee is even affordable at all for us!).
 

tinytiny

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
10
Jealous of your size too! Why do you need a cup when there ain’t a window? Cup is hard to clean.
I didn't realize cups are used to mitigate windows! And I definitely don't want anything hard to clean, thank you for pointing that out.

The sapphire has a tilt window (which I understand is normal), but I guess it's still not necessary to cup it in that case?
 

tinytiny

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
10
This sounds gorgouse
I have short pudgy fingers but i love a bezel, i love yellow gold and i love saphires
Really looking forward to seeing how this turns out
I personality like a wider band - remember you want to wear your ring for life (i love that !!)
The diamonds on the band sound pretty without distracting from the sapgire
It's been hard getting a visual idea from the internet since so many sapphires seem to be set in platinum or white gold. When I was younger I liked the sparkle of white metals but now realize that yellow gold suits me much better.

Yes, I would like this ring to be for life! We don't have much money at the moment so even this feels like a big luxury, I'm not even sure we can afford the melee diamonds to be honest. I'm trying to figure out for myself whether I could accept a wider band (maybe 2.5, 3mm?), since my fingers aren't particularly long and if I wear a 2mm or 3mm wedding band with it, that might be all the space I have from knuckle to knuckle!
 

tinytiny

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
10
Hi TinyTiny! Perfect name; I never met a size 2 adult!! The stone will not look too big. I think your ideas about a bezel with pave band sounds perfect. I look forward to what designs your jeweler comes up with!
Yes, well, many people do not think I am an adult when they meet me in the flesh. I regular get carded at the liquor store and have the cashier laugh at how I'm like 10 years older than them! I've also noticed that I get carded on weekends more when I'm rested and fresh, vs weekdays after work when I've got tired adult bitch face on after a long day at the office...
 

tinytiny

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
10
I don't understand why anyone would be jealous of small hands.

Tiny tiny can't wear a 35ct aquamarine cocktail ring, those of you who are a size 7/8+++ who are jealous can!

There are advantages to everything! ❤
They certainly do me no favours when it comes to opening jars or holding things designed for the rest of the adult population. Regular XS winter gloves are basically mittens on me.

And indeed, I will never be able to rock a glamorous cocktail ring without looking like the ring is wearing me!
margot_mckinney_aquamarine_and_paraiba_tourmaline_cocktail_ring_.jpg__760x0_q75_crop-scale_sub...jpg
(taken from Google image search of "cocktail ring on a child")
 

tinytiny

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
10
Here are a few threads to inspire you - I am sure there are more. I love bezels. They are practical, sleek and lovely in their simplicity.

https://www.pricescope.com/communit...taires-in-bezel-settings.198700/#post-3617679

https://www.pricescope.com/communit...rain-bezel-pretty-please.190647/#post-3472619

https://www.pricescope.com/communit...zel-wf-cameron-solitaire.241583/#post-4359080

I expect your stone will darken a smidge. Beautiful stone btw. I would keep the gallery open (DEFINITELY) and the bezel thin to let light in. An open gallery will allow you to clean more easily. You do not need to get a clunky looking bezel. Some are razor thin! I also think milgrain on the bezel can make it look softer and more feminine.

I think it sounds like the bezel style is perfect for your lifestyle and will protect your stone!

Do you like more vintage or modern styles? I could share some specific settings ideas if it helps
Thank you for the inspiration threads! I'm not sure whether my preference tends towards vintage or modern, probably more vintage. I would prefer sort of a tulip basket with maybe low cathedral shoulders, but I'm not sure if all these elements can be put together on such a small ring? A thin, not clunky bezel is definitely what I'm after, but I'm not sure if it's going to be susceptible to damage in the long term?

@muesli 's AVR setting from Distinctive Gem is pretty much what I'd hope for, except with a bezel, maybe add some low cathedral shoulders. But I'm worried about cleaning the stone -- how do you get to it when it's all wrapped up like that?
20200327_090947.jpg

I was wondering if having it "be open" on the bottom would help, while also keeping the stone low:
IMG_5018.jpeg

But basically my vision is kind of like a mix of these styles:
e8285da2df05697035e6eea380499e4f.jpg

rps20150330_1559169.jpg tourmaline_1024x1024.jpg

Would it be weird to have it open at the bottom, like an open donut type thing? I'm thinking about ease of cleaning, I realize that lint and dirt will get through the gallery and I'm wondering how people keep their stones clean and sparkly!

I'm also open to this kind of style, which may ultimately be more affordable for us:
SKindandCoEthicalJewelry-44_1024x1024.jpg
il_1140xN.1984517258_izvt.jpg

Thank you all for your advice and suggestions!
 

737lizakg

Shiny_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 18, 2015
Messages
428
Beautiful stone! I had 3 sapphires bezeled and set as low as possible, but with open galleries. The gold bands rubbed the pavilions of my sapphires and abraded them immediately. Within the first week of wearing. So if you are going to pair it with your wedding ring be sure that there is at least one 'strut' to protect it, or have it set higher. I have attached some photos of what i mean. 20200911_195209.jpg

Edited: i just saw your style preferences. Yay for vintage! With your sized stone probably best to keep the gallery simple as I was told that smaller stones cannot accommodate intricate carving etc.
 

muesli

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Sep 11, 2018
Messages
249
Thank you for the inspiration threads! I'm not sure whether my preference tends towards vintage or modern, probably more vintage. I would prefer sort of a tulip basket with maybe low cathedral shoulders, but I'm not sure if all these elements can be put together on such a small ring? A thin, not clunky bezel is definitely what I'm after, but I'm not sure if it's going to be susceptible to damage in the long term?

@muesli 's AVR setting from Distinctive Gem is pretty much what I'd hope for, except with a bezel, maybe add some low cathedral shoulders. But I'm worried about cleaning the stone -- how do you get to it when it's all wrapped up like that?
20200327_090947.jpg

I was wondering if having it "be open" on the bottom would help, while also keeping the stone low:
IMG_5018.jpeg

But basically my vision is kind of like a mix of these styles:
e8285da2df05697035e6eea380499e4f.jpg

rps20150330_1559169.jpg tourmaline_1024x1024.jpg

Would it be weird to have it open at the bottom, like an open donut type thing? I'm thinking about ease of cleaning, I realize that lint and dirt will get through the gallery and I'm wondering how people keep their stones clean and sparkly!

I'm also open to this kind of style, which may ultimately be more affordable for us:
SKindandCoEthicalJewelry-44_1024x1024.jpg
il_1140xN.1984517258_izvt.jpg

Thank you all for your advice and suggestions!
Oh! Thank you so much! I actually pondered weither to add a bezel to it or not, I must confess that I'm a bit tempted still ;-). It's going to be stunning!
I clean it with a baby tooth brush fwiw:).
 

Daisys and Diamonds

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Apr 30, 2019
Messages
6,194
It's been hard getting a visual idea from the internet since so many sapphires seem to be set in platinum or white gold. When I was younger I liked the sparkle of white metals but now realize that yellow gold suits me much better.

Yes, I would like this ring to be for life! We don't have much money at the moment so even this feels like a big luxury, I'm not even sure we can afford the melee diamonds to be honest. I'm trying to figure out for myself whether I could accept a wider band (maybe 2.5, 3mm?), since my fingers aren't particularly long and if I wear a 2mm or 3mm wedding band with it, that might be all the space I have from knuckle to knuckle!
I think saphires are luxurious, its going to be beautiful, and
Blue and gold are a perfect match
I might have pudgy fingers but they are very short - like always the shortest in my class growing up
You get used to it (filling a finger up with ring)
Do you think it would be possible to skip the melee and do that bit latter
Don't overstetch yourself finacially
 

Daisys and Diamonds

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Apr 30, 2019
Messages
6,194
Thank you for the inspiration threads! I'm not sure whether my preference tends towards vintage or modern, probably more vintage. I would prefer sort of a tulip basket with maybe low cathedral shoulders, but I'm not sure if all these elements can be put together on such a small ring? A thin, not clunky bezel is definitely what I'm after, but I'm not sure if it's going to be susceptible to damage in the long term?

@muesli 's AVR setting from Distinctive Gem is pretty much what I'd hope for, except with a bezel, maybe add some low cathedral shoulders. But I'm worried about cleaning the stone -- how do you get to it when it's all wrapped up like that?
20200327_090947.jpg

I was wondering if having it "be open" on the bottom would help, while also keeping the stone low:
IMG_5018.jpeg

But basically my vision is kind of like a mix of these styles:
e8285da2df05697035e6eea380499e4f.jpg

rps20150330_1559169.jpg tourmaline_1024x1024.jpg

Would it be weird to have it open at the bottom, like an open donut type thing? I'm thinking about ease of cleaning, I realize that lint and dirt will get through the gallery and I'm wondering how people keep their stones clean and sparkly!

I'm also open to this kind of style, which may ultimately be more affordable for us:
SKindandCoEthicalJewelry-44_1024x1024.jpg
il_1140xN.1984517258_izvt.jpg

Thank you all for your advice and suggestions!
That's a very elegant look
but i must be getting old - i can't get my head around such skinny bands
Have you ever tried on anything a bit wider
 

Daisys and Diamonds

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Apr 30, 2019
Messages
6,194
They certainly do me no favours when it comes to opening jars or holding things designed for the rest of the adult population. Regular XS winter gloves are basically mittens on me.

And indeed, I will never be able to rock a glamorous cocktail ring without looking like the ring is wearing me!
margot_mckinney_aquamarine_and_paraiba_tourmaline_cocktail_ring_.jpg__760x0_q75_crop-scale_sub...jpg
(taken from Google image search of "cocktail ring on a child")
I want a ring like that !
I have hands so small i wear child gloves - i just have pudgy but still very short fingers
I would rock that ring
Its about mind set !
 

tinytiny

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
10
Beautiful stone! I had 3 sapphires bezeled and set as low as possible, but with open galleries. The gold bands rubbed the pavilions of my sapphires and abraded them immediately. Within the first week of wearing. So if you are going to pair it with your wedding ring be sure that there is at least one 'strut' to protect it, or have it set higher. I have attached some photos of what i mean. 20200911_195209.jpg

Edited: i just saw your style preferences. Yay for vintage! With your sized stone probably best to keep the gallery simple as I was told that smaller stones cannot accommodate intricate carving etc.
Wow, thank you for this great advice, I had not realized this at all! I will certainly make sure with the jeweler that the wedding band won't damage the sapphire's pavilion. I really appreciate the time you took to find pictures to show what you mean.

When you say a simple gallery, do you mean the petal shapes won't really be possible? It's what I was worried about, given that it is indeed a smaller stone..
 

tinytiny

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
10
Do you think it would be possible to skip the melee and do that bit latter
Don't overstetch yourself finacially
You're right, it could be a consideration to save the melee for later. Here's hoping that it'll be affordable, when we speak with the jeweler!
That's a very elegant look
but i must be getting old - i can't get my head around such skinny bands
Have you ever tried on anything a bit wider
I got a ring sizing set from Amazon which a reviewer said was about 2.8mm, it felt a bit wide, but I'm mindful of sturdiness and am willing to go wider if it'll be markedly stronger. Around 3mm seemed right for the wedding band, though!
 

tinytiny

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
10
Oh! Thank you so much! I actually pondered weither to add a bezel to it or not, I must confess that I'm a bit tempted still ;-). It's going to be stunning!
I clean it with a baby tooth brush fwiw:).
Yes, when I saw those gorgeous, delicate petals I was smitten! It's so beautiful and perfectly executed. Your stone being around 7mm and mine being around 6mm gives me hope that perhaps it may be possible with my sapphire and my jeweler.

Here I was wondering how people keep rings like this clean and I didn't even think to ask you! So happy to hear that something as simple as a baby toothbrush is all that's really needed!
 

elrohwen

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 20, 2008
Messages
5,534
I think a delicate bezel setting would be amazing. I prefer cathedral sides with bezels and I think either with or without pave or bead set sides would look great. 2mm isn’t super delicate either so should be a great width.
 

737lizakg

Shiny_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 18, 2015
Messages
428
Wow, thank you for this great advice, I had not realized this at all! I will certainly make sure with the jeweler that the wedding band won't damage the sapphire's pavilion. I really appreciate the time you took to find pictures to show what you mean.

When you say a simple gallery, do you mean the petal shapes won't really be possible? It's what I was worried about, given that it is indeed a smaller stone..
I had Maytal tell me that the petals I was after would look very different from my inspo pic if done on my 5.7mm diamond, but that was also on a very shallow spready stone. Your stone is bigger, and the metal will pop and be more visible against the colored stone. Just be prepared for it to look different from the ones that have larger stones.
 

LilAlex

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
570
I like the delicate and dainty look so am leaning towards a 2mm wide band, but also want to be practical and reduce the possibility of damage/warping.
You can flush-set it in a tapered band a few mm wider than the stone itself -- a barely-visible bezel. Family member is very active and lives outdoors for her job. That's what I would get for her. Not overly dainty but classic-looking. I think that's the closest to indestructible. Right hand rings take a beating.
 
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