Would love input on Sapphire ring CAD design in progress

[2Neezers]

Hello ,

Several years ago I purchased a beautiful Lotus lab unheated blue sapphire from arkieb1. I had planned to have it set right away, but four years later I still hadn’t found the right design. I wanted the sapphire to be surrounded by diamonds, but not set in a traditional halo and was looking for something a little different.

I came across this vintage Tiffany design and like it a lot, but am having a hard time envisioning the finished piece with my stone. I know some of you have an excellent eye for cad and designs. I would love to hear any input!

I reached out to DK he kindly sent me a drawing. Here are some of the questions running through my head..
The Tiffany design is for a round center, do you think the design will translate well with my 7.36 x 6.4mm cushion?
In the cads, it looks like there is a void on each side of the cushion sapphire. Do you think it will be noticeable in person? I’m trying to think if there is a way to lessen that gap.
The geometric gallery design doesn’t speak to me, so I would need to tweek that also.
Is this design too much metal and is it going to take away from my sapphire?

Here’s the original Tiffany ring:



DK sent me this drawing:


I liked the drawings but envisioned the surrounding diamonds to be larger. Then I remembered I had purchased this pin to use for a future project, with .06ct , approx 2.4mm OEC’s.


I asked David if he thought my diamonds would work and he sent me this updated drawing. He said to ignore the graph numbers and that the halo stones in the picture are 2.4mm, we also changed the first stone in the band to 2.4mm, to match the halo diamond size.


Any input would be much appreciated

 

[Autumn in New England]

The first thing I was going to say was that the diamonds were simply too small. But you've fixed it... 2.4mm is a great size for a halo (and they're OECs)! Your sapphire is also stunning. I'm dying to see this piece completed now!! And I love, love, love the scalloped design.

 

[Autumn in New England]

So the reason you're seeing a slight gap on the sides is because the design was initially meant for a round, and David has enlarged the mounting to accommodate your elongated cushion, while still keeping it equilateral. I don't think it's a big issue, but ask if he can rework the proportions a bit. Also, no, I don't feel it's too much metal (now that you've enlarged the diamonds).

 

[2Neezers]

The first thing I was going to say was that the diamonds were simply too small. But you've fixed it... 2.4mm is a great size for a halo (and they're OECs)! Your sapphire is also stunning. I'm dying to see this piece completed now!! And I love, love, love the scalloped design.

Thanks @Autumn in New England ! There’s been some down time since my last email to David, so I’ve had plenty of time to second guess my design choice .
I’m glad to hear you like the design and the 2.4mm diamond size. Thanks for the comment on my sapphire! It is hard to photograph it‘s color accurately. The sun was out today and it was glowing nicely, but you can’t tell that from my picture!

So the reason you're seeing a slight gap on the sides is because the design was initially meant for a round, and David has enlarged the mounting to accommodate your elongated cushion, while still keeping it equilateral. I don't think it's a big issue, but ask if he can rework the proportions a bit. Also, no, I don't feel it's too much metal (now that you've enlarged the diamonds).

I will ask him if he can somehow tighten the gap on the sides up. I think it will be less noticeable in person than the drawing, but I dont want it to be something that my eyes are drawn to and then bother me either. I’m also glad you don’t think it will be to much metal. Thanks for the help!

 

[Rfisher]

Beautiful sapphire and I love your inspo idea for the setting. It’s going to be gorgeous! I think the design will be lovely with an oval as does the round.
I do like the look better with the bigger diamonds.

My two thoughts:
- Are you married to the idea of the sapphire being n/s? Is e/w off the table?

- the inspo has the center stone sitting in a cup/ridge/faux bezel (whatever you want to call it) that mimics the scallop as a star shape that doesn’t seem to be there in the CAD. I think it being missing changes the overall look as well.
In relation to this - The prongs in the inspo sit almost entirely within the ‘cup’ /not very visible on profile view and I don’t think this will be the case by looking at the cad. The prongs will be pretty visible on profile view. ( even though we all know prongs look much more prominent in cads - I’m meaning the placement of the prongs- not just them looking different irl after finished. )
Just something to maybe ask about if this detail matters to you. No right/wrongs.

 

[elle_71125]

I’m going to second @Autumn in New England in asking DK if the halo can be reworked so I fit the cushion shape better. As it is, I think the gaps will be smaller in person (vs the cad)…but still noticeable enough to bother you.

 

[mellowyellowgirl]

Can you get DK to make a cup for the stone to sit in to eliminate the gaps?

I recently had a heart ring made and the heart was triple haloed but it sits in a rim/cup thing and then the halo goes around it to eliminate as many gaps as possible because it's irregular in shape.

 

[2Neezers]

Beautiful sapphire and I love your inspo idea for the setting. It’s going to be gorgeous! I think the design will be lovely with an oval as does the round.
I do like the look better with the bigger diamonds.

My two thoughts:
- Are you married to the idea of the sapphire being n/s? Is e/w off the table?

- the inspo has the center stone sitting in a cup/ridge/faux bezel (whatever you want to call it) that mimics the scallop as a star shape that doesn’t seem to be there in the CAD. I think it being missing changes the overall look as well.
In relation to this - The prongs in the inspo sit almost entirely within the ‘cup’ /not very visible on profile view and I don’t think this will be the case by looking at the cad. The prongs will be pretty visible on profile view. ( even though we all know prongs look much more prominent in cads - I’m meaning the placement of the prongs- not just them looking different irl after finished. )
Just something to maybe ask about if this detail matters to you. No right/wrongs.

Thank you for the input @Rfisher ! It’s great to know you think it will be a gorgeous ring .

I love the look of stones set east/west, but they don’t look great on my hand. I think north/south helps to balance out my larger finger/hand size. I might try having something set e/w someday with a larger stone, but for this ring I’d like to stick with the sapphire facing north/south.

The other items you mentioned are all great observations! I think David made the drawings as a starting point to give me a better idea of the look and also to work up the price estimate. He mentioned to let him know what changes I‘d like him to make, so I will definitely mention the things you noticed to him. I appreciate your attention to the details!

 

[2Neezers]

I’m going to second @Autumn in New England in asking DK if the halo can be reworked so I fit the cushion shape better. As it is, I think the gaps will be smaller in person (vs the cad)…but still noticeable enough to bother you.

Thank you @elle_71125 ! I’m glad I’m not alone in thinking the gaps will be bothersome. I’ve noticed on several of your rings that DK makes a fine milgrain border that surrounds your center stones. It’s almost like a bezel, but it’s not and your stones are prong set. What do you and David refer to that border as? I love that design feature! I’m wondering if something like that could be worked in to my design to lessen the gap..

 

[2Neezers]

Can you get DK to make a cup for the stone to sit in to eliminate the gaps?

I recently had a heart ring made and the heart was triple haloed but it sits in a rim/cup thing and then the halo goes around it to eliminate as many gaps as possible because it's irregular in shape.

That‘s a great idea, Thank you!
I don’t know if I’ve mentioned it yet, but I love your heart ring !!
It’s gorgeous and they did a great job working with the irregular shape. There‘s not a gap in sight!

 

[Autumn in New England]

I think David made the drawings as a starting point to give me a better idea of the look and also to work up the price estimate. He mentioned to let him know what changes I‘d like him to make, so I will definitely mention the things you noticed to him. I appreciate your attention to the details!

We changed my CAD 8 times. He definitely starts with a rough draft, and then fully expects you to overhaul it, if need be. So don't be shy. He and Amy are super accommodating. We're working on a project too! I can't wait to see your ring!!

 

[Starstruck8]

First, beautiful sapphire!

- the inspo has the center stone sitting in a cup/ridge/faux bezel (whatever you want to call it) that mimics the scallop as a star shape that doesn’t seem to be there in the CAD. I think it being missing changes the overall look as well.

Agree with this. In the Tiffany original, the centre stone and all the surrounding stones are set into 'conical' depressions bordered by raised ridges. I think this is what is called 'illusion setting', intended to make the stones look bigger - this is why the original used smaller surrounding stones, and why it doesn't have the 'halo' look. Regardless of the illusion, the raised arched ridges give the fascinating scalloped look.

If this look is what you like, you could modify the CAD to try to replicate it (with raised arches and depressed cups). I'm thinking that the 'flat' setting of the current CAD will give a different look. Of course, that's not necessarily bad.

 

[elle_71125]

Thank you @elle_71125 ! I’m glad I’m not alone in thinking the gaps will be bothersome. I’ve noticed on several of your rings that DK makes a fine milgrain border that surrounds your center stones. It’s almost like a bezel, but it’s not and your stones are prong set. What do you and David refer to that border as? I love that design feature! I’m wondering if something like that could be worked in to my design to lessen the gap..

I’ve definitely let something bothersome go through to production and it still bothers me in my finished ring. So I think trying to find a way to fix it now is the best course of action.

I tried to pull a few of my pics together for you.
I‘m not as fancy with terminology and I usually just call it a faux bezel with milgrain.
- Top left is a semi cup.
- Top right is a faux bezel. I’m a big fan of that look, obviously.
- Bottom left is more of a cup, I’d guess (that’s from Cecile Raley Designs).



I was trying to figure out how to minimize the section on the left & right of your cushion but I couldn’t quite workshop it. I think you’d need something on the inner portion, like a semi cup, to fill in the space and make it look more fluid.

What if you changed the four corners to be slightly smaller/thinner and then added in two pieces along the long sides instead of one? Just spitballing here.

 

[2Neezers]

We changed my CAD 8 times. He definitely starts with a rough draft, and then fully expects you to overhaul it, if need be. So don't be shy. He and Amy are super accommodating. We're working on a project too! I can't wait to see your ring!!

It’s good to know you had a similar experience with the first round of CAD’s. I am definitely on the shy side, so I will have to put on my assertive pants to request the changes .
How exciting that you are working on a project! You have amazing stones, what stone are you having set? I’m excited to see what you have been working on!

 

[2Neezers]

First, beautiful sapphire!


Agree with this. In the Tiffany original, the centre stone and all the surrounding stones are set into 'conical' depressions bordered by raised ridges. I think this is what is called 'illusion setting', intended to make the stones look bigger - this is why the original used smaller surrounding stones, and why it doesn't have the 'halo' look. Regardless of the illusion, the raised arched ridges give the fascinating scalloped look.

If this look is what you like, you could modify the CAD to try to replicate it (with raised arches and depressed cups). I'm thinking that the 'flat' setting of the current CAD will give a different look. Of course, that's not necessarily bad.

Thank you! Your avatar star sapphire is beautiful!
That is a great explanation of how the stones are set in the original vs the CAD. I do like the look of the original, with the raised arched ridges. I don’t really want the flat look of the CAD.
I grabbed this close up screen shot of the areas you and @Rfisher mentioned. Hopefully he can replicate this look.

 

[2Neezers]

I’ve definitely let something bothersome go through to production and it still bothers me in my finished ring. So I think trying to find a way to fix it now is the best course of action.

I tried to pull a few of my pics together for you.
I‘m not as fancy with terminology and I usually just call it a faux bezel with milgrain.
- Top left is a semi cup.
- Top right is a faux bezel. I’m a big fan of that look, obviously.
- Bottom left is more of a cup, I’d guess (that’s from Cecile Raley Designs).



I was trying to figure out how to minimize the section on the left & right of your cushion but I couldn’t quite workshop it. I think you’d need something on the inner portion, like a semi cup, to fill in the space and make it look more fluid.

What if you changed the four corners to be slightly smaller/thinner and then added in two pieces along the long sides instead of one? Just spitballing here.

These pictures are so helpful! Its great to see the examples of a faux bezel with milgrain, etc., all together. Thank you!

I like the changes you made to the CAD to try to fill the gaps on the side too. It’s interesting to see how what seems like a small change can really change the overall look of a design.

I have to admit that I’m feeling overwhelmed by the design and CAD process and am starting to wonder if I should go with a design David has done before. To simplify things and also so I can see what the finished piece looked like, so there are no surprises or disappointments.
That said, I have always loved your mahenge spinel ring in the upper right picture! Do you have a thread on it with the center stone size and side stones sizes? Would you be okay with it if I ended up going with something similar?

 

[Autumn in New England]

It’s good to know you had a similar experience with the first round of CAD’s. I am definitely on the shy side, so I will have to put on my assertive pants to request the changes .
How exciting that you are working on a project! You have amazing stones, what stone are you having set? I’m excited to see what you have been working on!

I wouldn't give up on this design yet, my friend! However, if you have a round or equilateral cushion, asscher, etc., it may be better suited to that stone if you want to keep the design exact. But I still think you guys can tweak this CAD to your liking. When I had a difficult time relating what I was looking for in writing, I called Amy. Sometimes an immediate back and forth exchange is necessary. Then I'd follow up with an email. Good luck!!

P.S. I'm setting a paraiba!

 

[elle_71125]

These pictures are so helpful! Its great to see the examples of a faux bezel with milgrain, etc., all together. Thank you!

I like the changes you made to the CAD to try to fill the gaps on the side too. It’s interesting to see how what seems like a small change can really change the overall look of a design.

I have to admit that I’m feeling overwhelmed by the design and CAD process and am starting to wonder if I should go with a design David has done before. To simplify things and also so I can see what the finished piece looked like, so there are no surprises or disappointments.
That said, I have always loved your mahenge spinel ring in the upper right picture! Do you have a thread on it with the center stone size and side stones sizes? Would you be okay with it if I ended up going with something similar?

CADs can be intimidating but don’t give up. I have some projects that take me months and months because I can’t quite visualize what I want. Seeing the finished product in your head can feel damn near impossible. The design you picked is beautiful! Keep posting here and there are plenty of people better with cads that are happy to chime in. @Rfisher and @CHRISTY-DANIELLE are always amazing at that IMO.

If you decide not to use it for this project, you can always save it for another gem. Maybe when you have a round or squared cushion. There are plenty of people that can chime in with setting ideas for your stone, if you decide to look for new ideas. I don’t remember the exact stats on my ring. I think the halo stones are between 2.2mm-2.3mm and the center is just over a carat. The design is pretty standard so no worries if that something your interested in using.

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

I think you've received some great pointers here. I don't want you to give up on your original inspo either. Believe me getting something made from an inspo you loved is so satisfying. I just popped in to add : GET A RING MOLD once you are happy with the cad. I have found them to be very helpful and DK will happily send you one.

 

[2Neezers]

I wouldn't give up on this design yet, my friend! However, if you have a round or equilateral cushion, asscher, etc., it may be better suited to that stone if you want to keep the design exact. But I still think you guys can tweak this CAD to your liking. When I had a difficult time relating what I was looking for in writing, I called Amy. Sometimes an immediate back and forth exchange is necessary. Then I'd follow up with an email. Good luck!!

P.S. I'm setting a paraiba!

Ooooo! You‘re setting a paraiba! I’m so excited to see it!!
I won‘t give up on the design quite yet! I had thought about saving this design for a round and if it doesn’t end up working for the sapphire, I’ll see if I have a round or square cushion that could work. I appreciate the mention to call Amy if I need to go over things. That would be very helpfu!

CADs can be intimidating but don’t give up. I have some projects that take me months and months because I can’t quite visualize what I want. Seeing the finished product in your head can feel damn near impossible. The design you picked is beautiful! Keep posting here and there are plenty of people better with cads that are happy to chime in. @Rfisher and @CHRISTY-DANIELLE are always amazing at that IMO.

If you decide not to use it for this project, you can always save it for another gem. Maybe when you have a round or squared cushion. There are plenty of people that can chime in with setting ideas for your stone, if you decide to look for new ideas. I don’t remember the exact stats on my ring. I think the halo stones are between 2.2mm-2.3mm and the center is just over a carat. The design is pretty standard so no worries if that something your interested in using.

Thanks for sharing that some projects can take months to get where you want them to be. I remember you took the time to work through the details of Clover and she is perfect!
I’m going to give the design some more time to see if it can work. If not, I’m glad you wouldn’t mind if I went with something similar to your spinel ring!

I think you've received some great pointers here. I don't want you to give up on your original inspo either. Believe me getting something made from an inspo you loved is so satisfying. I just popped in to add : GET A RING MOLD once you are happy with the cad. I have found them to be very helpful and DK will happily send you one.

It would be very satisfying to see the ring made from the inspo, so I’ll keep working towards it. Getting a ring mold made is a great idea! Thanks for mentioning that. I will definitely ask for one once the cads are finalized!

 

[2Neezers]

I‘m wondering what you all think of the look of rotating the diamond halo/outline so there are two diamonds at the top and three on the sides, something like the picture below?
Do you think that would help to tighten up the gap around the sides?
I’ve also realized that I definitely want a faux bezel around my sapphire, so maybe that would help with the gap too.
It’s gravitating away from being exactly like the original design, but that is okay with me.

This is just a rough drawing I made, with gaps galore that I wouldn’t want to be in the finished ring.

 

[Autumn in New England]

I think something like this is going to be necessary to close that gap. It's difficult to have a square mounting with a rectangular stone, you know? The only thing is you may have to use smaller diamonds now that there are more scallops. But, perhaps not. Amy will know right away. In any event, I love the look of this!

 

[elle_71125]

I‘m wondering what you all think of the look of rotating the diamond halo/outline so there are two diamonds at the top and three on the sides, something like the picture below?
Do you think that would help to tighten up the gap around the sides?
I’ve also realized that I definitely want a faux bezel around my sapphire, so maybe that would help with the gap too.
It’s gravitating away from being exactly like the original design, but that is okay with me.

This is just a rough drawing I made, with gaps galore that I wouldn’t want to be in the finished ring.

I like the look of this one. It’s definitely worth asking is they can try that in a cad to see if it works.

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

I‘m wondering what you all think of the look of rotating the diamond halo/outline so there are two diamonds at the top and three on the sides, something like the picture below?
Do you think that would help to tighten up the gap around the sides?
I’ve also realized that I definitely want a faux bezel around my sapphire, so maybe that would help with the gap too.
It’s gravitating away from being exactly like the original design, but that is okay with me.

This is just a rough drawing I made, with gaps galore that I wouldn’t want to be in the finished ring.

I like where you are going with this! I think one important element missing in this and in DKs cad is that the original has a distinct and seperate "cup" for the center. Then seperate metal for the "halo". With a fine gap between.
With something like this I'm glad you are willing to get the ring mold/ plastic. This is a very 3 dimensional design and some of the beauty of it is lost in that flat cad.
Ok my not great drawings...
Keep in mind the gallery would change too. I like keeping similar elements.
Just a rough:

 

[2Neezers]

I’m glad to hear you think this layout has potential @Autumn in New England @elle_71125 @CHRISTY-DANIELLE ! I’m going to reach out to David and see if he thinks it will work in CAD.

I like where you are going with this! I think one important element missing in this and in DKs cad is that the original has a distinct and seperate "cup" for the center. Then seperate metal for the "halo". With a fine gap between.
With something like this I'm glad you are willing to get the ring mold/ plastic. This is a very 3 dimensional design and some of the beauty of it is lost in that flat cad.
Ok my not great drawings...
Keep in mind the gallery would change too. I like keeping similar elements.
Just a rough:

This is amazing @CHRISTY-DANIELLE ! Thank you for drawing these up!
The cup around the sapphire is such a strong design element and important part of the design. It’s so helpful to see it in your picture. I also love your version of the gallery. I was hoping to find something more in keeping with the design and you nailed it! I’m going to save your pictures to send to David. Thank you!

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

I’m glad to hear you think this layout has potential @Autumn in New England @elle_71125 @CHRISTY-DANIELLE ! I’m going to reach out to David and see if he thinks it will work in CAD.




This is amazing @CHRISTY-DANIELLE ! Thank you for drawing these up!
The cup around the sapphire is such a strong design element and important part of the design. It’s so helpful to see it in your picture. I also love your version of the gallery. I was hoping to find something more in keeping with the design and you nailed it! I’m going to save your pictures to send to David. Thank you!

Lol they know my "art" well over there!
Here's another thought on the gallery. I've always liked the simple circles that were common in deco design.

 

[2Neezers]

Lol they know my "art" well over there!
Here's another thought on the gallery. I've always liked the simple circles that were common in deco design.

I like that one as well! They are both excellent ideas. It will be hard to choose!

 

[elle_71125]

I like where you are going with this! I think one important element missing in this and in DKs cad is that the original has a distinct and seperate "cup" for the center. Then seperate metal for the "halo". With a fine gap between.
With something like this I'm glad you are willing to get the ring mold/ plastic. This is a very 3 dimensional design and some of the beauty of it is lost in that flat cad.
Ok my not great drawings...
Keep in mind the gallery would change too. I like keeping similar elements.
Just a rough:

This is why @CHRISTY-DANIELLE will forever be the queen of CADs & mock-ups. You are amazing C!

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

This is why @CHRISTY-DANIELLE will forever be the queen of CADs & mock-ups. You are amazing C!

Aww...geez... thank you @elle_71125
I wish I could just make/ design jewelry. What a fun career!

 

[2Neezers]

Hello ,
I‘m back with updated CADs! Thanks to the input from everyone I was able to forward a lot of the suggestions you all made to David. I think it looks so different with all of the details added in and I like it a lot!

I asked for the “halo” diamonds to be a nice size, but balanced with the overall look, so they were changed to 2mm instead of using my larger oec’s. David mentioned the setter will give the carved out look where the halo stones are set.

I was thinking of adding two more small diamonds to each side of the shank for more top finger coverage, so there would be five diamonds on each side of the shank , or would it look better with three as shown? Any thoughts on that?

If there are any suggestions on changes I should ask to be made before a wax model is sent to me, I’d love to hear them!