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Where to find the best emerald cuts?

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,027
Down the road, I want to purchase a high quality emerald cut diamond of about 3 cts.

I've heard there are several people producing top-of-the-line cut quality. For example, Brian Gavin's Black ECs look amazing.

Who else should I look at? Who is making the emerald cut version of "super ideals?" I assume there will be many "flavors" of cuts, so I want to start learning/researching now even though the purchase will be at least a year or more in the future. It takes me time to figure out exactly what I want. And I don't feel comfortable making a large purchase again until this pandemic passes.

Thanks in advance!
 
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lissyflo

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
1,149
Jon at Distinctive Gems does a beautiful old-school emerald cut. I think it’s called the heritage cut. I don’t remember seeing it in diamond, only moissanite, but I assume he has/will have a cut pattern to work in diamond too. It’s beautiful.
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,214
as i understand it, from my experience, there are several avenues that you might consider, if it is a larger steller emerald cut, that you seek

generally, there are several makes of emerald cut

antique or antique style
modern
classic

within this group, there are variations such as a square emerald or an off make emerald.

then there are ratios to consider. do you favor longer slimmer, do you prefer fatter squatter or close to a square emerald cut?

antique emeralds can be found at, sourced by or custom cut by:

yoram at gemconcepts @diagem
jonathan at distinctive gems @Rhino
anup at jogani
larry and natasha at platt jewelry
lang's antique & estate jewelry
adam at old world diamonds @oldworlddiamonds

modern/classic emeralds can be sourced by or custom cut by

jonathan at distinctive gems
brian at brian gavin
yoram at gemconcepts (he usually cuts old style but doesn't hurt to ask)
ilan portugali diamantaire

from what i have observed, brian gavin black has only ever had, at the heaviest, 2 carats, on his site. i surmise that if you want a 3 carat, from him, it would need to be custom cut. also note, the crowns of his black emeralds are quite high. so could be a fusion of makes to create his signature ...

if you fancy a challenge and enjoy a "hunt", with your own eyes for a modern emerald...

blue nile
james allen
b2cjewels
adiamor

there are several "in house", forum experts such as @Karl_K , @Matthews1127 that are very willing to help

if it is fire, you want, my opinion is that, i don't think any other cut, beats a well cut emerald/step cut or oec

i apologize, if i left any business or individual out. it is half past midnight los angeles time

hope that helps
 
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dk168

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
6,930
I would go straight to Yoram to request for a custom project if I were in the market for a 3ct EC.

DK :))
 

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,027
as i understand it, from my experience, there are several avenues that you might consider, if it is a larger steller emerald cut, that you seek

generally, there are several makes of emerald cut

antique or antique style
modern
classic

within this group, there are variations such as a square emerald or an off make emerald.

then there are ratios to consider. do you favor longer slimmer, do you prefer fatter squatter or close to a square emerald cut?

antique emeralds can be found at, sourced by or custom cut by:

yoram at gemconcepts @diagem
jonathan at distinctive gems @Rhino
anup at jogani
larry and natasha at platt jewelry
lang's antique & estate jewelry
adam at old world diamonds @oldworlddiamonds

modern/classic emeralds can be sourced by or custom cut by

jonathan at distinctive gems
brian at brian gavin
yoram at gemconcepts (he usually cuts old style but doesn't hurt to ask)
ilan portugali diamantaire

from what i have observed, brian gavin black has only ever had, at the heaviest, 2 carats, on his site. i surmise that if you want a 3 carat, from him, it would need to be custom cut. also note, the crowns of his black emeralds are quite high. so could be a fusion of makes to create his signature ...

if you fancy a challenge and enjoy a "hunt", with your own eyes for a modern emerald...

blue nile
james allen
b2cjewels
adiamor

there are several "in house", forum experts such as @Karl_K , @Matthews1127 that are very willing to help

if it is fire, you want, my opinion is that, i don't think any other cut, beats a well cut emerald/step cut or oec

i apologize, if i left any business or individual out. it is half past midnight los angeles time

hope that helps
This is a really great overview of the EC field. Thank you! I'm taking this all in and will processing it.
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
5,170
as i understand it, from my experience, there are several avenues that you might consider, if it is a larger steller emerald cut, that you seek

generally, there are several makes of emerald cut

antique or antique style
modern
classic

within this group, there are variations such as a square emerald or an off make emerald.

then there are ratios to consider. do you favor longer slimmer, do you prefer fatter squatter or close to a square emerald cut?

antique emeralds can be found at, sourced by or custom cut by:

yoram at gemconcepts @diagem
jonathan at distinctive gems @Rhino
anup at jogani
larry and natasha at platt jewelry
lang's antique & estate jewelry
adam at old world diamonds @oldworlddiamonds

modern/classic emeralds can be sourced by or custom cut by

jonathan at distinctive gems
brian at brian gavin
yoram at gemconcepts (he usually cuts old style but doesn't hurt to ask)
ilan portugali diamantaire

from what i have observed, brian gavin black has only ever had, at the heaviest, 2 carats, on his site. i surmise that if you want a 3 carat, from him, it would need to be custom cut. also note, the crowns of his black emeralds are quite high. so could be a fusion of makes to create his signature ...

if you fancy a challenge and enjoy a "hunt", with your own eyes for a modern emerald...

blue nile
james allen
b2cjewels
adiamor

there are several "in house", forum experts such as @Karl_K , @Matthews1127 that are very willing to help

if it is fire, you want, my opinion is that, i don't think any other cut, beats a well cut emerald/step cut or oec

i apologize, if i left any business or individual out. it is half past midnight los angeles time

hope that helps
Thanks for the tag!
;)2
 

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,027
All of the above mentioned are true.
I’ll throw Alex at Parks Fine Group into the mix, as well.

I’m game to help, any time!
This will be fun!!
My dream EC falls into the 3-5ct range.
I’ll truly enjoy the journey! ♥
Thank you! You are a step cut goddess! I know I will call on your expertise as this unfolds.
 

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,027
Question #1: What are the differences between an Antique Emerald Cut and a modern one?

When I compare photos of the two online, here are the differences I notice (but tell me if I'm wrong and please add additional difference to the list.)

1. The antiques appear to have large culets; the moderns appear to have no culets.
2. The antiques appear to have longer shoulders (is that what you call the corners, shoulders?)
3. There seem to be a lot of square antiques (at least on the GemConcepts website.)

What else? Are the crowns puffier or higher like in other older cuts? Is there any difference in fire in general between the antique and modern cut?

Photo of an antique emerald cut from GemConcepts site:

Screen Shot 2020-09-28 at 10.21.56 PM.png

@Matthews1127 @Big Fat Facets @dk168 @Mayk @lissyflo
 
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RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,027
Question #2: What effect, if any, does the L/W ratio have on light performance? Also, do the length of the shoulders affect performance?

For example, do longer ECs throw light differently than more square ones? Do the ones with very long corners behave differently than the ones with short corners?

I ask this because my eye prefers certain L/W ratios and also certain size corners IN PHOTOS. (I haven't compared them in person.) However, I have no idea how my preferred shape affects performance.

At this time in my search, I like the looks of 1.38-ish L/W ratio with medium length corners. I don't like square ECs, nor do I like particularly long skinny ones. I also don't like the super long shoulders I see in the antique ones -- they make the diamond look oval-ish and I want a rectangle.
 
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Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,214
Question #1: What are the differences between an Antique Emerald Cut and a modern one?

When I compare photos of the two online, here are the differences I notice (but tell me if I'm wrong and please add additional difference to the list.)

1. The antiques appear to have large culets; the moderns appear to have no culets.
2. The antiques appear to have longer shoulders (is that what you call the corners, shoulders?)
3. There seem to be a lot of square antiques (at least on the GemConcepts website.)

What else? Are the crowns puffier or higher like in other older cuts? Is there any difference in fire in general between the antique and modern cut?

Photo of an antique emerald cut from GemConcepts site:

Screen Shot 2020-09-28 at 10.21.56 PM.png

@Matthews1127 @Big Fat Facets @dk168 @Mayk @lissyflo
based on my observations and personal experience ...

modern emeralds, typically, do not have culets. antique emeralds, typically, have culets or keel, which runs the length of the base

from what i have observed, generally, antique emeralds do have a more pronounced or broader corners. although, seldomly, i have seen them in modern emeralds

generally, crowns are more pronounced and higher in antique emeralds
 
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Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,214
Question #2: What effect, if any, does the L/W ratio have on light performance? Also, do the length of the shoulders affect performance?

For example, do longer ECs throw light differently than more square ones? Do the ones with very long corners behave differently than the ones with short corners?

I ask this because my eye prefers certain L/W ratios and also certain size corners IN PHOTOS. (I haven't compared them in person.) However, I have no idea how my preferred shape affects performance.

At this time in my search, I like the looks of 1.38-ish L/W ratio with medium length corners. I don't like square ECs, nor do I like particularly long skinny ones. I also don't like the super long shoulders I see in the antique ones -- they make the diamond look oval-ish and I want a rectangle.
in my opinion,
i feel the longer thinner emeralds do offer a different light play than a fatter squatter emeralds. the corners accommodate the smallest facets within an emerald cut. with a broader corner, there will appear, to be more of the smaller facets. especially, prominent in antique emeralds

the broader, more pronounced corners, do render an emerald cut more of an elongated octagonal shape. which is desirable for some individuals

it sounds like you favour a modern emerald cut
 

OoohShiny

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 25, 2014
Messages
7,995
What else? Are the crowns puffier or higher like in other older cuts? Is there any difference in fire in general between the antique and modern cut?
...
My understanding is that higher crowns and smaller tables increase the crown facets' size, and as they help fan the light out into the coloured rainbows that look like coloured fire if they are large/wide enough that your pupils 'clip' the ends of the rainbows off and leave only single colour bands entering your eye, a higher crown/smaller table combo does (generally speaking) increase the opportunity for Fire.

Yoram's asschers in a vintage style do tend to have the higher crowns and small tables :)

I'm not sure if @diagem is allowed to post the technical differences between his vintage asschers and the more modern asschers seen elsewhere, but @Jimmianne might be able to comment on their real life performance as she has her 'Mildred' :))

 

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,027
in my opinion,
i feel the longer thinner emeralds do offer a different light play than a fatter squatter emeralds. the corners accommodate the smallest facets within an emerald cut. with a broader corner, there will appear, to be more of the smaller facets. especially, prominent in antique emeralds

the broader, more pronounced corners, do render an emerald cut more of an elongated octagonal shape. which is desirable for some individuals

it sounds like you favour a modern emerald cut
When the world opens up a bit more I look forward to seeing the long skinnies and shorter fatter ones side by side to see the different light plays.

I also really need to see the antiques in person as I've only ever seen the modern ones.

Sometimes what looks good in person is very different than what looks good in a photo. I just need to see more diamonds -- what a drag (not!) :razz:
 

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,027
My understanding is that higher crowns and smaller tables increase the crown facets' size, and as they help fan the light out into the coloured rainbows that look like coloured fire if they are large/wide enough that your pupils 'clip' the ends of the rainbows off and leave only single colour bands entering your eye, a higher crown/smaller table combo does (generally speaking) increase the opportunity for Fire.

Yoram's asschers in a vintage style do tend to have the higher crowns and small tables :)

I'm not sure if @diagem is allowed to post the technical differences between his vintage asschers and the more modern asschers seen elsewhere, but @Jimmianne might be able to comment on their real life performance as she has her 'Mildred' :))

I need to see some antiques in person, I am a sucker for fire! Thanks for the explanation.
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,214
i find that shopping for an emerald is very different than shopping for a round brilliant.
for example, within the antique or antique style emerald cut, there are lots of different "personalities". this also holds true for modern emerald cuts. and there is less to choose from than round brilliants. it's especially the case if the color, clarity and carat weight, come into play.

ive heard quite a few jewelry proffesionals, outside the forum, say that emeralds display tint very well, and that one can go to an i color, j color or even a k color, easily. however, when i was shopping, i found that i favour colorless emeralds. the higher you go in color the less you will have to choose from due to the rarity.

higher clarity is important for an emerald cut. personally, i would not choose an si for an emerald cut as, in my shopping experience, most si diamonds that i have encountered, as a consumer, are not eye clean and need to be determined on a stone by stone basis. in fact, in my experience, even vs2 need to be determined on a stone by stone basis. ive seen some vs2 stones that are not eye clean. generally, a vs1, will most likely, be eye clean. i am a color and clarity sensitive person.

for a step cut diamond, i will always favour high color and high clarity.

@diamondseeker2006 has an antique emerald as does @MamaBee i believe their step cuts are of the authentic genuine antique variety.

i have purchased diamonds just based on video and aset. prior to the health crisis, there were times, i just could not alot the time to the see diamonds in person. now that we are these state of affairs, the opportunity of seeing them in person is not an option i want to exercise.
 

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,027
i find that shopping for an emerald is very different than shopping for a round brilliant.
for example, within the antique or antique style emerald cut, there are lots of different "personalities". this also holds true for modern emerald cuts. and there is less to choose from than round brilliants. it's especially the case if the color, clarity and carat weight, come into play.

ive heard quite a few jewelry proffesionals, outside the forum, say that emeralds display tint very well, and that one can go to an i color, j color or even a k color, easily. however, when i was shopping, i found that i favour colorless emeralds. the higher you go in color the less you will have to choose from due to the rarity.

higher clarity is important for an emerald cut. personally, i would not choose an si for an emerald cut as, in my shopping experience, most si diamonds that i have encountered, as a consumer, are not eye clean and need to be determined on a stone by stone basis. in fact, in my experience, even vs2 need to be determined on a stone by stone basis. ive seen some vs2 stones that are not eye clean. generally, a vs1, will most likely, be eye clean. i am a color and clarity sensitive person.

for a step cut diamond, i will always favour high color and high clarity.

@diamondseeker2006 has an antique emerald as does @MamaBee i believe their step cuts are of the authentic genuine antique variety.

i have purchased diamonds just based on video and aset. prior to the health crisis, there were times, i just could not alot the time to the see diamonds in person. now that we are these state of affairs, the opportunity of seeing them in person is not an option i want to exercise.
All good points.

Yes, I am not going to actively start searching until at least spring 2021. I'm upgrading my CBI stud earrings first as soon as the rough starts flowing again. The EC will come next (it will be an east/west pendant.)

I'm looking and learning all I can now online (only going in person to a very few, careful and targeted private appointments.)

I too am extremely color sensitive and plan to stay in the D/E range, (my e-ring and studs are both D) and I won't go below a VS1 clarity for any of my diamonds. I'd much rather trade down on size than trade down on color or clarity. I'm weird that way, I'm glad you understand.

Thanks for walking me through a lot of this first phase of looking and giving me an excellent overview. I really appreciate it!
 
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Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,214
you are welcome!

hah! not "weird" at all!! nope, not one bit, weird, my ring is a d color vvs clarity. my studs are an antique old cut style h color vvs-vs clarity. because ideal optic antique style cuts are not abundant in the market place, selection was limited and to have to match a pair, i ended up with h color studs. i was also very interested in experiencing warmer diamonds as majority of the members in the forum are very fond of them. i'll try anything, jewelry related, once

i prioritize cut, color and clarity as equally important followed by weight.

i was looking for an emerald cut for a pendant. but because i already wear one, i selected another cut

an approximately 3 carat emerald cut for a pendant ought to be quite substantial and most striking.

cheers to upgrading studs
 
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RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,027
you are welcome!

hah! not "weird" at all!! nope, not one bit, weird, my ring is a d color vvs clarity. my studs are an antique old cut style h color vvs-vs clarity. because ideal optic antique style cuts are not abundant in the market place, selection was limited and to have to match a pair, i ended up with h color studs. i was also very interested in experiencing warmer diamonds as majority of the members in the forum are very fond of them. i'll try anything, jewelry related, once

i prioritize cut, color and clarity as equally important followed by weight.

i was looking for an emerald cut for a pendant. but because i already wear one, i selected another cut

an approximately 3 carat emerald cut for a pendant ought to be quite substantial and most striking.

cheers to upgrading studs
I just checked out your ring -- OMG that's a DREAM DIAMOND!!!! I'm saving a pic in my "inspiration file!" Love the classic, elegant way you've set it too.

Can I ask where you found it or who sourced it for you?

IMG_1182.JPG
 

Big Fat Facets

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 7, 2019
Messages
1,214
thank you!! i appreciate your enthusiasm and kind words!!

yes, i will upload more pictures for you in sunlight. i will be replacing my nonworking cable tomorrow.

i had a diamantaire call it in. I included him for you in a post above, post #4. he's not on the forum. i met him abut 12 years ago when he was director of harry winston beverly hills. he left harry winston to start his own business about 8 years ago

he specializes in d-e color fl-if to vvs clarity diamonds. in the past, when i wore mrb, he sourced them for me. he sourced d color vvs 2.5ctw mrb studs and a d color if 2.5 mrb diamond for a ring. i haven't seen him really deal in antique or antique style cuts. i have seen g and vvs from time to time. his diamonds are gia xxx. he does not use ags

(i know, i know, gia xxx is a broad range and ags is stricter on cuts. i can hear the grumbling, already ...)
 

RunningwithScissors

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
1,027
Thanks for the info @Big Fat Facets. I looked at Mr. Portugali's website and was intrigued.

Sounds like you have a swoon-worthy collection. Feel free to share pics on Show Me The Bling if you feel comfortable doing so. We all love to see "family" shots! It gives us images to aspire to.

(No grumbling from me about gia certs, I only grumble about their online classes which I took and found dated, 1980's "big hair" and all!
 
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