Visited Leon Mege, Taffin, Garrard, Cartier, etc.

[neatfreak]

Date: 6/18/2007 3:39:04 PM
Author: fanboy
Neatfreak, mrssalvo, decodelighted, and everyone else:


Wha''ts your opinion on bright-cut pave with milgrain vs. rounded micro-pave? I can imagine the former being very beautiful, but I don''t want something that screams, ''Antique!'' Without the milgrain, I can''t imagine the bright-cut pave looking ''finished''. But then, as my understanding goes, the milgrain was created in the first place to hide finishing defects so perhaps the more pure design would leave it out.

I love the antique look sometimes, and sometimes it just looks too busy. It really depends on the ring.

My ring doesn''t have milgrain on the micropave and I think it looks very sleek. It''s a Ritani for reference.

 

[mrssalvo]

fanboy,

I think Leon really loves to use single cuts and they are a bit more expensive but apparently are more inline to stones used in real antiques. If you go with Leon, I''d probably go with whichever he thinks will look best with your stone but honestly, in stones that small i''m not sure the average person could really even see the difference.

 

[decodelighted]

Date: 6/18/2007 3:39:04 PM
Author: fanboy
Wha''ts your opinion on bright-cut pave with milgrain vs. rounded micro-pave? I can imagine the former being very beautiful, but I don''t want something that screams, ''Antique!'' Without the milgrain, I can''t imagine the bright-cut pave looking ''finished''. But then, as my understanding goes, milgrain was created in the first place to hide finishing defects so perhaps the more pure design would leave it out.

Both are beautiful looks ... I''d guess Leon or Taffin could leave off the milgrain w/o leaving "finishing defects" because they seem so skilled. PERSONALLY I like milgrain with Asschers -- because I find any solid polished metal around them distracting ... at least until the natural platinum patina sets in & softens the "mirror" look. (But I like antique looks too so that''s disclosed).

Since your future fiance loves the idea of matching wedding bands ... maybe you should start thinking about wedding bands you like so you can kind of "back" into this decision. It might help you decide -- because then you wouldn''t be concentrating JUST on which look you like better -- but you''d be considering the whole deal ... which rings look better with which rings. Which I STRONGLY believe would lead to a better OVERALL look/outcome.

Maytal Hannah make a gorgeous men''s band for Allycat''s fiance -- it had a solid metal top with engraving on each side I think ...

You could always have your wedding bands custom made too -- at the same time as the e-ring to INSURE INSURE INSURE that a) you love your ring b) her rings look good/wear well together c) you don''t have to send off her ring later on to be "fitted" to the w-band.

I''m full up of thoughts today.

 

[fanboy]

I spoke to Douglass Elliot at Marisa Perry (anyone heard of them? nymag.com claims that they do the best micro-pave in the city). He scoffed at the notion of using single cuts. Does he have any credibility?

 

[fanboy]

Date: 6/18/2007 3:52:19 PM
Author: decodelighted

You could always have your wedding bands custom made too -- at the same time as the e-ring to INSURE INSURE INSURE that a) you love your ring b) her rings look good/wear well together c) you don''t have to send off her ring later on to be ''fitted'' to the w-band.

I''m full up of thoughts today.

Sorry I''ve taxed you so much! I appreciate all the help; I really do.

Well, I was thinking she and I could pick out our bands together. Our view is that the engagement ring is a gift from me to her, and the wedding bands are what we''re getting ourselves as a couple.

Perhaps if we did the milgrain on the engagement ring (w/ the bright cut pave), a milgrain solid platinum band could look nice. Tiffany''s has some pretty ones.

 

[neatfreak]

Date: 6/18/2007 3:57:03 PM
Author: fanboy

Date: 6/18/2007 3:52:19 PM

Author: decodelighted


You could always have your wedding bands custom made too -- at the same time as the e-ring to INSURE INSURE INSURE that a) you love your ring b) her rings look good/wear well together c) you don''t have to send off her ring later on to be ''fitted'' to the w-band.


I''m full up of thoughts today.

Sorry I''ve taxed you so much! I appreciate all the help; I really do.


Well, I was thinking she and I could pick out our bands together. Our view is that the engagement ring is a gift from me to her, and the wedding bands are what we''re getting ourselves as a couple.


Perhaps if we did the milgrain on the engagement ring (w/ the bright cut pave), a milgrain solid platinum band could look nice. Tiffany''s has some pretty ones.

I wouldn''t personally get a DIFFERENT micropave band as a wedding ring, unless they were made to match by the same person. Might look "off" if you know what I mean.

 

[decodelighted]

Date: 6/18/2007 3:57:03 PM
Author: fanboy

Date: 6/18/2007 3:52:19 PM
Author: decodelighted
I''m full up of thoughts today.

Sorry I''ve taxed you so much! I appreciate all the help; I really do.

Perhaps if we did the milgrain on the engagement ring (w/ the bright cut pave), a milgrain solid platinum band could look nice. Tiffany''s has some pretty ones.

Nah!! I *LOVE* this project. Thinking about it is F-U-N!

I like the *idea* of a milgrain band with a micropave/milgrain e-ring ... but when I''ve seen it in person, I didn''t like it so much. That''s why I really think you should look at the combo before you order the e-ring. I know that the w-bands are a "couple" project ... but so many folks around here have had to re-set their e-rings before the wedding because they couldn''t find wedding bands that "went" with them. And you have an even BIGGER challenge -- because you want to find MATCHING w-bands (which implies a kind of unisex style) that would pair well with the most feminine delicate kind of e-ring possible. (HARD!!!!! if not impossible) Also -- you''re spending MUCH more than most folks do on the setting because of the couture nature of the project -- so it would even MORE of a tragedy if you ended up having to re-set. Yanno what I mean??

 

[fanboy]

Date: 6/18/2007 4:09:27 PM
Author: decodelighted
Also -- you''re spending MUCH more than most folks do on the setting because of the couture nature of the project -- so it would even MORE of a tragedy if you ended up having to re-set. Yanno what I mean??

*Sigh* Unfortunately, I know exactly what you mean. This whole ordeal is becoming quite the torture test.

 

[mrssalvo]

Once again, i agree with deco on the above. Maybe you all should choose your wedding bands first and then try to find the setting that is going to work best with it. I agree that finding a unisex band that you are going to like for a man and something that will pair nicely with the type of setting you are wanting for your amazing asscher is going to be very hard. But if you work in that direction you might find that going with a simpler setting would be your fiancee''s preference so she can match you with the wedding band or she might be willing to give up the matching idea to have a more blingy wedding set.

 

[kcoursolle]

Date: 6/18/2007 3:39:04 PM
Author: fanboy
Neatfreak, mrssalvo, decodelighted, and everyone else:

Wha''ts your opinion on bright-cut pave with milgrain vs. rounded micro-pave? I can imagine the former being very beautiful, but I don''t want something that screams, ''Antique!'' Without the milgrain, I can''t imagine the bright-cut pave looking ''finished''. But then, as my understanding goes, milgrain was created in the first place to hide finishing defects so perhaps the more pure design would leave it out.

I personally prefer pave without the milgrain. I think milgrain looks a bit crusty and I prefer to just see the diamonds. I do like the squared off edge, but just without mildgrain like this ring: http://www.artofplatinum.com/4images/details.php?image_id=348.

With this sort of thing, I would trust leon''s opinion and go with what he suggests.

 

[decodelighted]

Date: 6/18/2007 4:21:16 PM
Author: fanboy

Date: 6/18/2007 4:09:27 PM
Author: decodelighted
Also -- you''re spending MUCH more than most folks do on the setting because of the couture nature of the project -- so it would even MORE of a tragedy if you ended up having to re-set. Yanno what I mean??

*Sigh* Unfortunately, I know exactly what you mean. This whole ordeal is becoming quite the torture test.

Please don''t be too discouraged. It''s very "normal" to come into a project with a lot of goals & desires etc ... only to be contronted with that pesky "reality". It just happens that you''ve selected a PHENOMENAL, rare, awesome stone with "special needs". Plus the desire your fiance has to have a wedding band that matches yours. (If she''s cool with wearing it on the other hand then no worries)

If you''re not able to get ALL your goals accomplished with this one ring ... you could always design a fabulous special occasion ring in the future -- to commemorate an anniversary or birth etc. Those types of rings don''t have to be as "practical" and they don''t need to match anything else. More flights of fancy etc ...

 

[diagem]

Date: 6/17/2007 5:06:35 PM
Author: fanboy

Re Taffin: I''d be thrilled to go with James if his price weren''t so high. We''ll see if he can come down a little, but I have a feeling there''s very little room for bargaining. It''s not like he needs my business.

I am actually surprised Taffin would create a mounting for a commissioned Diamond...
You asked "is it worth more?", my answer (without meaning anything negative toward others)..., Yes...

Do you want to get into or can you get into an extra 5K.? That is a whole different question.

After all..., some that I know..., call him the next JAR...

 

[winnie]

hi fanboy- we went to marissa perry - his work seems to be outsourced to me- mark t replicated one of his rings for my siter in law...wasn''t impressed at all with the mariss perry stuff...
would go to leon and then get a band made to match the engagement ring...basta! don''t drive yourself nuts...his work is great, the price is fair....i know it will be fantastic!

 

[fanboy]

Diagem--why are you surprised Taffin would work with a client-supplied stone? Do you know anything in particular about their craftmanship and how it compares to Leon Mege?

Winnie--thanks for the word on Marisa Perry; the guy did seem pompous on the phone. He quite unabashedly declared that nobody in the world can do micropave as we as him. When I asked him what made his micropave so superior, he couldn''t give me a substantive answer. All he could say is: "we have the best craftmanship."

 

[diagem]

Date: 6/19/2007 12:09:02 AM
Author: fanboy
Diagem--why are you surprised Taffin would work with a client-supplied stone? Do you know anything in particular about their craftmanship and how it compares to Leon Mege?

Winnie--thanks for the word on Marisa Perry; the guy did seem pompous on the phone. He quite unabashedly declared that nobody in the world can do micropave as we as him. When I asked him what made his micropave so superior, he couldn''t give me a substantive answer. All he could say is: ''we have the best craftmanship.''

Just a bit surprised, Taffin has superb craftsmanship and design!

if you are want another path (especially) for the (micro) Pave... try Christian Tse in LA...., he also has some amazing (pave) work....

Good luck,

 

[Gypsy]

I''d go for the Taffin... but WITH your GF''s input. It is going to be such an distictive, unique and signature piece that you really are getting what you pay for.

 

[fanboy]

Date: 6/19/2007 1:34:13 AM
Author: Gypsy
I''d go for the Taffin... but WITH your GF''s input. It is going to be such an distictive, unique and signature piece that you really are getting what you pay for.

I don''t know if I can stomach $10k for a setting. Thr $5k premium over Leon is quite startling, particularly given that Taffin may use Leon Mege for all I know. I''m willing to pay a premium, but not that much.

 

[Gypsy]

Ahh. In that case, either bargain Taffin down... or use Leon. I like Leon''s work. I really do. There are a few pieces of his I just go gaga over. So... really save the 5K for a lovely cruise where you can propose to her, and get the Leon.

 

[diamondfan]

I agree with the notion that Leon is AMAZING and if Taffin is as well, do you feel it is doubly so? If not, I would so go with Leon, but have not seen Taffin''s work up close nor seen any Leon with micro pave, just a center with side stones. But 5000.00 is a lot of money, and unless you and your fiancee are dying to have a Taffin, it just would not seem measurably worth it.

 

[peridot83]

I think you may have conflicting goals. I see it this way. Before you went to visit the jewelers you had these competing goals:

On one hand:

Most beautiful e-ring possible

On the other hand:

Must match a wedding band that is:

1. Unisex
2. Will not damage or look ugly with a delicate e-ring

Right now, the wedding band is a MUCH bigger restriction on the e-ring than "beautiful." So based on the above, if all prioritized equally, you should figure out the wedding band situation first. (assuming she wants to wear the rings as a set)

However, now you have added MORE competing goals into the mix by considering Taffin and a custom by Cartier However these questions are the easiest to answer:

1. Do you want the wedding band to match the detailed/expert craftmanship of the e-ring? (and can you afford it?)
2. Are you looking for just the most beautfiul ring v. a collector's piece v. high quality enough to be an heirloom? (Mege v. Taffin)
a. Not saying that Mege may not reach collector's status in the future, but I don't believe he's there yet so more of a gamble.
b. Someone else on this forum should tell you whether the stone for your e-ring is worthy of collector's status, and therefore worth the investment in the setting to "seal the deal" (collector's pieces are all about demand, right now Taffin seems to have the right level of name recognition and rareness to create a good level of demand)
c. I'm sure if owning a collector's piece is not a priority, Mege can construct something that's beautiful enough and quality enough to satisfy you and be passed down as an heirloom.
d. If you're thinking heirloom, I wouldn't get something as fussy as 3 sided micropave, much more likely to frequently need repairs and upkeep than other styles.


I'm not an expert on any of these things, but I just think you're jugging too many considerations and variables, and maybe that's why you're feeling overwhelmed .

 

[fanboy]

Date: 6/19/2007 2:51:19 AM
Author: peridot83
I think you may have conflicting goals. I see it this way. Before you went to visit the jewelers you had these competing goals:

On one hand:

Most beautiful e-ring possible

On the other hand:

Must match a wedding band that is:

1. Unisex
2. Will not damage or look ugly with a delicate e-ring

Right now, the wedding band is a MUCH bigger restriction on the e-ring than ''beautiful.'' So based on the above, if all prioritized equally, you should figure out the wedding band situation first. (assuming she wants to wear the rings as a set)

However, now you have added MORE competing goals into the mix by considering Taffin and a custom by Cartier However these questions are the easiest to answer:

1. Do you want the wedding band to match the detailed/expert craftmanship of the e-ring? (and can you afford it?)
2. Are you looking for just the most beautfiul ring v. a collector''s piece v. high quality enough to be an heirloom? (Mege v. Taffin)
a. Not saying that Mege may not reach collector''s status in the future, but I don''t believe he''s there yet so more of a gamble.
b. Someone else on this forum should tell you whether the stone for your e-ring is worthy of collector''s status, and therefore worth the investment in the setting to ''seal the deal'' (collector''s pieces are all about demand, right now Taffin seems to have the right level of name recognition and rareness to create a good level of demand)
c. I''m sure if owning a collector''s piece is not a priority, Mege can construct something that''s beautiful enough and quality enough to satisfy you and be passed down as an heirloom.
d. If you''re thinking heirloom, I wouldn''t get something as fussy as 3 sided micropave, much more likely to frequently need repairs and upkeep than other styles.


I''m not an expert on any of these things, but I just think you''re jugging too many considerations and variables, and maybe that''s why you''re feeling overwhelmed .

Wow, peridot, that is a stunning analysis. Thank you; it very nicely elucidates the situation for me.

I have reason to believe she would actually like a fancier engagement ring paired with a plain wedding band. She''s as much as said so and has seen it on others. Obviously opinions change, but that''s the best information I have.

To answer your other questions:

1. I do want the wedding band to match the craftmanship of the e-ring. There''s little I''m not willing to pay for, within reason; deciding to go with Taffin has less to do with whether I could pay for it, and more to do with whether it''s worthwhile to do so.

2. I want the most beautiful ring, and one that could be passed on in the family. I don''t require it to be a collector''s piece, and don''t even know if my stone qualifies for that anyway--it probably doesn''t given the huge stones going around these days. Of course, it would be nice if the ring were a collector''s piece. If I had Leon do it, I''d have him leave off any identifying engravings--at that point, I''d rather leave the craftmanship anonymous and let the quality speak for itself since I don''t think Leon''s name adds much value. If anyone here knows whether my stone is worthy of ''collector status'', please chime in.

From my understanding of three-sided micro-pave, the danger is not that stones wil fall off by themselves while the ring sits there, but that through daily usage one or two may come loose. This doesn''t bother me with regard to preserving the ring as an heirloom.

I have yet to hear from Cartier, and from Garrard regarding pricing. I''m growing more skeptical of Garrard given their frequent delays and failures to contact me when scheduled to do so. I can''t imagine Cartier costing less than Taffin, so it''s probably moot whether they''d do the job. But we''ll see.

 

[neatfreak]

Just an FYI: Leon is very touchy. I would never ask him to leave off his personal mark, because he will ask why, you will have to tell him, and then likely he will not accept the work.

Just a guess, but I think that might offend him to tell him his work isn't as nice as others so you don't want his "mark" on it.


As for "collector" quality, the asscher is nice, and if it's an original royal asscher it obviously has some collector value. But unless you're planning on SELLING the ring in the future, which I doubt your GF is, then I would only worry about it being nice enough quality to pass down in the family.

As for the pave, I really don't think that the pave adds to the durability of the ring like you said. Think about it. A solid metal shank, or a metal shank that has a ton of little holes punched in it? Regardless of whether there are diamonds in it or not, metal with holes will be less sturdy than metal without holes.

Remember, that although the diamonds are "hard" they won't bend and give like platinum will, so it's a different ballgame. Part of the reason Platinum lasts so long is that it can bend and flow when it gets hit, diamonds would interrupt that natural flow if that makes sense. Especially something that is 3 sided pave AND only 1.5mm. While beautiful, one good knock and the ring could be bent beyond repair. So it's NOT just about a few stones falling out.

 

[fanboy]

Date: 6/19/2007 11:43:10 AM
Author: neatfreak
Just an FYI: Leon is very touchy. I would never ask him to leave off his personal mark, because he will ask why, you will have to tell him, and then likely he will not accept the work.

Just a guess, but I think that might offend him to tell him his work isn''t as nice as others so you don''t want his ''mark'' on it.


As for ''collector'' quality, the asscher is nice, and if it''s an original royal asscher it obviously has some collector value. But unless you''re planning on SELLING the ring in the future, which I doubt your GF is, then I would only worry about it being nice enough quality to pass down in the family.

Actually, Leon offered to leave off any markings I didn''t want. I didn''t tell him any reason for it, just that I preferred a clean finish. He was more than happy to oblige.

The stone is a Royal Asscher, 1.93ct, D VVS2.

No, she''d never sell it.

 

[neatfreak]

Date: 6/19/2007 11:46:40 AM
Author: fanboy

Date: 6/19/2007 11:43:10 AM

Author: neatfreak

Just an FYI: Leon is very touchy. I would never ask him to leave off his personal mark, because he will ask why, you will have to tell him, and then likely he will not accept the work.


Just a guess, but I think that might offend him to tell him his work isn''t as nice as others so you don''t want his ''mark'' on it.



As for ''collector'' quality, the asscher is nice, and if it''s an original royal asscher it obviously has some collector value. But unless you''re planning on SELLING the ring in the future, which I doubt your GF is, then I would only worry about it being nice enough quality to pass down in the family.

Actually, Leon offered to leave off any markings I didn''t want. I didn''t tell him any reason for it, just that I preferred a clean finish. He was more than happy to oblige.


The stone is a Royal Asscher, 1.93ct, D VVS2.


No, she''d never sell it.

Well that is good news for you, but wouldn''t you rather have the markings just in case Leon''s work acheives collector status in the far future? I don''t think it would ever hurt the piece.

 

[fanboy]

I suppose it''s possible Leon Mege''s pieces will become collectible, but he''s been doing what he''s been doing for a long time and it''s his workmanship that gets attention, not his name. From what I gather, going with Leon will net me a ring that impeccably well-made. It should speak for itself.

In fact, even if I went with Taffin or Garrard (looking less likely), I might ask to leave off any marks other than perhaps a serial number of some sort. Garrard incorporates a little design feature under the basket that identifies the ring as theirs.

 

[neatfreak]

Date: 6/19/2007 12:00:10 PM
Author: fanboy
I suppose it''s possible Leon Mege''s pieces will become collectible, but he''s been doing what he''s been doing for a long time and it''s his workmanship that gets attention, not his name. From what I gather, going with Leon will net me a ring that impeccably well-made. It should speak for itself.


In fact, even if I went with Taffin or Garrard (looking less likely), I might ask to leave off any marks other than perhaps a serial number of some sort. Garrard incorporates a little design feature under the basket that identifies the ring as theirs.

Sounds like a plan. If it''s a collector piece you want however, the NAME inscribed on it can add a lot of value in the future. So if you do go with Taffin, I would have them put the usual marks on it if it were me.

 

[mrssalvo]

Date: 6/19/2007 12:01:16 PM
Author: neatfreak

Date: 6/19/2007 12:00:10 PM

Author: fanboy

I suppose it's possible Leon Mege's pieces will become collectible, but he's been doing what he's been doing for a long time and it's his workmanship that gets attention, not his name. From what I gather, going with Leon will net me a ring that impeccably well-made. It should speak for itself.



In fact, even if I went with Taffin or Garrard (looking less likely), I might ask to leave off any marks other than perhaps a serial number of some sort. Garrard incorporates a little design feature under the basket that identifies the ring as theirs.

Sounds like a plan. If it's a collector piece you want however, the NAME inscribed on it can add a lot of value in the future. So if you do go with Taffin, I would have them put the usual marks on it if it were me.

I agree. For example antique jewelry that is not branded will not bring the same price as would say an antique Tiffany ring no matter how well made. I'd probably go ahead with the branding, whomever you choose. You're right, Leon's name doesn't carry the same value as some other big names out there, but he's still young in the business and his popularity has really been exploding in recent years with continued growth. i wouldn't be surprised if years down the road he is more well known and his pieces will hold their value and be worth more. Maybe not, but at least, in my opinion, his craftmanship will stand the test of time.

 

[fanboy]

Date: 6/19/2007 12:29:27 PM
Author: mrssalvo

i wouldn''t be surprised if years down the road he is more well known and his pieces will hold their value and be worth more. Maybe not, but at least, in my opinion, his craftmanship will stand the test of time.

In that scenario, I bet he wouldn''t have a problem adding the marking later. At any rate, this is becoming moot since Garrard and Cartier have gone AWOL and I don''t hear the phone ringing from an James de Givenchy anxious to lower his price.

For curiosity sake though, how much value would going with Taffin add to my ring, assuming all else is equal?

 

[neatfreak]

Date: 6/19/2007 12:33:33 PM
Author: fanboy

Date: 6/19/2007 12:29:27 PM

Author: mrssalvo


i wouldn''t be surprised if years down the road he is more well known and his pieces will hold their value and be worth more. Maybe not, but at least, in my opinion, his craftmanship will stand the test of time.

In that scenario, I bet he wouldn''t have a problem adding the marking later. At any rate, this is becoming moot since Garrard and Cartier have gone AWOL and I don''t hear the phone ringing from an James de Givenchy anxious to lower his price.


For curiosity sake though, how much value would going with Taffin add to my ring, assuming all else is equal?

All depends on the demand for secondhand Taffin pieces. I would check the auction houses or something like that to see what taffin pieces are going for and compare that to similar pieces from other places.

But I don''t think there is any real way to gauge that, and remember, if she is not going to sell it, it will never be an issue!

 

[mrssalvo]

Date: 6/19/2007 12:33:33 PM
Author: fanboy

Date: 6/19/2007 12:29:27 PM

Author: mrssalvo


i wouldn''t be surprised if years down the road he is more well known and his pieces will hold their value and be worth more. Maybe not, but at least, in my opinion, his craftmanship will stand the test of time.

In that scenario, I bet he wouldn''t have a problem adding the marking later. At any rate, this is becoming moot since Garrard and Cartier have gone AWOL and I don''t hear the phone ringing from an James de Givenchy anxious to lower his price.


For curiosity sake though, how much value would going with Taffin add to my ring, assuming all else is equal?

checking auction houses would be a start. I really have no idea about Taffin. I do know when trying to sell a ring for example, you will normally take a loss. I think I''ve read here you''d be lucky to get 1/3 of what you pay, selling it though normal methods, i.e. consignment, ebay, etc. Now, Tiffany rings usually don''t retain full value but you can price them on signedpieces website and they will usually do much better. diamonds and jewelry just aren''t good investments in the normal sense, so I''d go with what you love, regardless of the designer name that may or may not be on it. You''re going down the right road by looking for quality first and finding what you think is a reasonable amount to pay for it