Trying to understand differences in Asscher cut

[Chuck5000]

Hello - my first post here on your truly informative board. I'm hoping to better understand the Asscher cut, as we are in the market to buy one.

My question (and please forgive my lack of technical terminology) is this: it appears that some Asscher cut diamonds have more facets/cuts than others. In particular, what I'm seeing is that if you start from the center of the stone, moving straight up to a 12 o-clock position, you can cross either three horizontal lines . . . or four. If you take that extra line around the stone, it results in 8 extra facets (on the stone with four versus the stone with three).

In my research, I see that there can be the Royal Asscher, the 'generic' Asscher, the 'Octavia' Asscher, etc., so perhaps this is part of where I am seeing different cuts/numbers of facets under the same Asscher cut umbrella.

I guess ultimately what I'm trying to understand is how the difference impacts the buying decision. I have seen a handful of stones at this point and this aspect doesn't appear to influence price - so I suppose it is purely aesthetic (personal preference) rather than a metric that results in value. But I really don't know and the information I have gotten from the two vendors I am working with is somewhat contradictory (they aren't actual gemologists).

Attached are two GIA reports that show the difference, just in case I didn't explain it well. These aren't reports of stones I'm looking at or anything like that - I just grabbed two that showed the cut issue I'm referring to. Thanks!!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

What I will say is that the primary factor in buying an asscher is to get one with great cut and light return. This has nothing to do with which of those styles you choose, except for the fact that the Octavia is designed and cut for excellent performance and most Royal Asschers should be nice, too. However, those two kinds may come with a price premium for the brand, so seeking a generic asscher with good light return can result in a beautiful stone with less cost. But you would be wise to only look at stones with photos, and it would be nice to be able to get an ASET image, as well. I don't have to have an ASET image to buy an asscher, but absolutely there has to be a photo or preferably video of the stone.

Here is a small one I bought a few years ago to fit a setting I had. See how beautifully proportional it is? The windmill facets are nice and wide, and the red, green, and blue is showing good light return and contrast (meaning as you move the stone, the red and blue will show in other facets). The white is some leakage, but it really doesn't show in reality because there is so little of it (and all asschers will have some). This is just a generic asscher, not a branded one.

 

[Chuck5000]

Thanks diamondseeker, I see what you mean about light performance.

I can't quite tell from that stone about the number of cuts, but do you have any comments or advice about how some asschers have three lines from the center to the top and some have four (they go all around of course, that's just how I'm referring to the cuts based on my lack of terminology).

Thanks!!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I don't pay attention to that. They are just different styles. You just need to have a well cut stone regardless of the number of facets. The ultimate in terms of cut is an Octavia. Others adore the antique style ones such as these, but there are not many. Yoram of Gem Concepts cuts Octavia (modern) and the antique style.

https://gemconcepts.net/octavia-diamond/

https://gemconcepts.net/old-emerald-cut-diamond/ (The asscher in the bottom center photo is perfection to me.)

Unfortunately there is a very small supply of Yoram's stones, but you could consider having one custom cut, if he would be interested. These are the best of the best.

https://gemconcepts.net/diamond-boutique/

A lot depends on your budget as to whether you should go for generic or specialty cuts. I'd recommend looking at generic asschers on a site like James Allen and post some here for us to advise you. You don't have to buy from them as many of their stones are available through other sources.

 

[Chuck5000]

Thank you for information - I appreciate it.

 

[Karl_K]

They are just different ways of cutting them, a way awesome knock your socks off asscher can be cut with 3 4 or 5 rows of pavilion facets and a total dud could have 3,4 or 5 rows.