Thoughts on setting precious stones in sterling silver

[Upgradable]

Glitterata''s gorgeous Infinity stone set in argentium silver by JuliaKayTaylor has me thinking..... why don''t we use silver more often when mounting precious stones? I understand wanting an engagement ring or wedding ring in gold or platinum, but what about other pieces?

I am currently saving for Julia to mount my 12 carat star sapphire in a vintage inspired mounting, but the planned mounting will require such a large amount of gold, that it is going to take quite a while to save up. Should I consider the argentium silver instead? I''d planned on yellow gold, but many people have stated a preference for white metal with this stone. What would be the advantages/disadvantages of going the silver route instead?

 

[Lady_Disdain]

I use a lot of silver, actually. I like the really white look for a lot of stones (and I dislike dipping white gold). I won''t set my spinel or demantoid in silver, but a lot of my tourmalines, opals and garnets end up in silver settings.

I prefer 950 fine silver/copper alloy, personally. Silver has amazing plasticity, there is a wide range of patinas (much more than the usual black) and it is very nice for texturing.

I recommend not getting cast silver, though. Hand fabricated pieces are harder, take better polish and generally end up better. I also ask about what solder is to be used (the harder, the better, as it will show up less).

 

[4ever]

One of the disadvantages of silver is that it oxidises over time. However a good clean will take care of this.

 

[D&T]

Can you have her do the head in yellow gold and the rest in argentinum silver? or do you not like two tone?

 

[Upgradable]

I love two toned! I''ll have to take a look at the design again and see if it would be suitable. What do you think?

 

[D&T]

totally

I would make that inner bezel yellow gold and the rest all in argentinum silver, since it does look like a hefty weight of gold on the outer bezel and shank portion

.

It will look bezelicious stunning in the two tone

 

[Upgradable]

What about the general concept of using a non-tarnishing silver allow for gemstones? Why isn''t it done very often?

 

[SB621]

that is a good question upgradeable. I know for me- I wouldn''t do silver because I feel with silver it tarnishes after awhile- so for my precious and semi precious stones I always use gold. To me they go hand in hand- however I do think that two tone would look great on that ring!

 

[glitterata]

Silver was THE precious white metal for centuries before platinum came into common use (about 100-110 years ago, according to Rich Sherwood) and before white gold was invented (around World War I). For centuries, most diamonds were set in silver. That was one reason I decided to set my S Infinity in silver. Hey--I'm an old-fashioned girl.

Argentium silver is a recent invention--patented sometime in the 1990s--and it hasn't caught on widely yet, possibly because there hasn't been time. It's supposed to be tarnish resistant, ultimately harder, and easier to work with than traditional sterling.

I believe traditional sterling is softer than the gold alloys commonly used in jewelry, which means delicate pronged settings can't be made as safely in traditional sterling. But thicker settings are safe and can be very attractive. And Julia assured me that my diamond would be safe in its delicate Argentium bezel setting, partly because of the hardness of the new alloy. I would never attempt anything like pave in silver, but plainer, more modern designs should work well. (Or really antique ones--like from the 17th century or ancient Rome.)

Even with traditional silver, tarnish may not be a problem, depending on the setting design. It's easy to keep a small piece polished, especially if you wear it a lot and keep it in an airtight place when you're not wearing it. Tarnish might build up in crevices, but depending on the stone and the design, I think the darkness of the tarnish can add character to the piece, highlighting the details.

Some people think silver looks cheap because they associate it with costume jewelry. But that's just a contemporary prejudice. Three hundred years ago, kings wore diamonds set in silver.

I say if you want to set your precious stones in silver, go for it!

But I would say that, wouldn't I?

 

[pwendyp]

hi again Upgradable!

I know you are getting the info on silver you need, and also have the design almost nailed down - but I just saw this, and thought of you. I don''t think this one has been listed as yet, in relation to your star sapphire.

I totally think silver is a good option, with perhaps some yellow gold in there, for bezelling - and maybe the diamond accents?

I''m really liking this designers work, I love the clasps and bails she uses - well, all her pieces are gorgeous!

Clay-Pot

TempleStClair

 

[Upgradable]

Wendy, you have my pulse when it comes to design, don''t you? I LOVE these pieces!!!!! What an aesthetic. It is a totally modern take on ancient look. I love that moonstone ring you posted.

Glitterata, I''m feeling more and more secure in the argentium and Julia. I may talk to her about doing this piece in silver instead of the gold. hmmmmmm..........

 

[glitterata]

By the way, the designers of the Arts & Crafts period (late 19th-early 20th century) were crazy for silver and set plenty of precious stones in it.

Here''s my Georg Jensen sterling silver moonstone ring that looks the one Wendy posted.

 

[oddoneout]

I''m a fan of silver because it''s cheaper (I have champagne taste and a beer budget) and I also like the look. I agree a two tone might look nice for your ring.

 

[Circe]

I adore silver, and have set a lot of my jewels in it: everything from an 18 carat tourmaline to some of my less valuable rubies and sapphires. I think that generally jewelers are loath to set precious stones in silver because the discrepancy is confusing to customers, but if you''re going custom, I say follow Faberge''s philosophy: suit the substance to the design instead of worrying about the intrinsic value. A star sapphire would look fabulous in silver alone, or in a two tone design! I''d be tempted to get a triple bezel, honestly, just for balance and because I think silver sets off sapphires so well ... off to hunt your older posts to find pics of this 12 carat beauty!

 

[pwendyp]

Date: 9/14/2009 8:10:17 AM
Author: Upgradable
....What an aesthetic. It is a totally modern take on ancient look.

I think your take on how you see her pieces is just about spot on - I think I could quite easily have one of each of her jewellery pieces! They are however, fairly costly!

Good luck with choosing both your design, and the metal...

 

[pwendyp]

Date: 9/14/2009 2:17:39 PM
Author: Circe
I''d be tempted to get a triple bezel, honestly, just for balance and because I think silver sets off sapphires so well ...

Spot on! I knew there was something that was rattling away as an unformed idea in my head!

I''ve seen this done somewhere, and it looked beautiful - silver on the pastel stone...then the warmth of yellow gold...then silver again. Very nice idea.

 

[glitterata]

Here''s an interesting (if badly written) article about tarnish-resistant silver alloys, including Argentium.

 

[Upgradable]

Circe, here are two threads with my star. I''d love to hear what you think.

Need input on star sapphire

Setting ideas for star sapphire

 

[jstarfireb]

I have quite a few semi-precious stones set in silver, but most of my finer pieces are white or yellow gold. But I''m currently having 3 stones set now - a spinel and garnet by Sally and a blue zircon by Julia. I''m going to have the Sally pieces rhodium plated to match the white gold ring I''ll stack with them. Julia uses the Argentium alloy, which hasn''t been around all that long but is supposed to be tarnish-resistant.

 

[Michael_E]

My opinion is that silver works great for some things and terribly for others. Anything made of silver and using traditional prong style settings is an accident waiting to happen. It is just too soft to be used for thin prong type settings. On the other hand if the design uses a bezel or bead setting, then it can work wonderfully...as long as it''s used in fairly thick proportions. Silver work hardens pretty quickly and gets brittle and fractures once that happens. If the metal is thick enough to prevent bending, then you''re good to go. As you''ll notice all of the settings shown so far have been bezels and fairly thickly proportioned. These are good designs that should hold up well. Although you sure don''t want to go weightlifting or gardening while wearing a silver ring, with more moderate use they will hold up for years. If you''re going to put an expensive stone into silver make sure to have it checked often to make sure that it isn''t getting loose.

 

[pwendyp]

This is proving to be an interesting subject...and found these links on Argentium Silver...

Argentium

Who''s using it?

There''s one or two familiar names in the who''s who list...

 

[Michael_E]

I just wanted to add that if I were going to set an expensive stone in sterling, I''d consider this platinum/sterling alloy: Platinum Sterling

I haven''t worked with it, but it sounds like it would work fantastically, take and hold a more highly polished surface than typical sterling and hold stones more securely in thinner settings. Have any of you used this material ?

 

[Cehrabehra]

It is funny that you mention this because I was just looking for a place to post this very question and came here to do so!

I do have another question... *aprox* what does it cost to have a ring done in silver? I know there are a lot of variables, but say you were having a plain metal custom ring done that was going to cost $1k in platinum... are we talking $50 or $500 or ?? ballpark.

 

[Cehrabehra]

your stone is gorgeous! it''s beautiful! And the person talking about the types of inclusions that make the star sapphires - that was new and interesting info for me.

I like your stone best in white metal - it looks like a beautiful sunny day with just a few pretty clouds. I''m not fond of it in the rosegold - looks a little too babyshower to me. The yellow gold is in the middle - it looks good and might make the stone pop a bit more, but the overall effect with the white is breathtaking to me.

 

[glitterata]

The article I linked to above compares platinum sterling to Argentium sterling and seems to prefer Argentium because it''s cheaper but has similar (or better) qualities.

Here''s the link again.

 

[ma re]

I don''t have a problem with silver as such, but what I don''t like about it is that jewellers often don''t pay much attention to things that they do in silver, especially gemstone pieces. It''s probably because they can''t charge a lot for it, so they don''t want to spend too much time making it. I appreciate good craftsmanship and have an eye for details so that''s probably one of the reasons why, but I''m OK with mass-produced silver chains and bracelets for example, as those are more often done nicely. I was even told by some jewellers that they don''t work in silver, cause they don''t find it cost-effective for custom work.

 

[glitterata]

Good point, ma re.

That wasn''t a problem with Julia Taylor. She''s a wonderful craftsperson.

 

[DiaDiva]

Date: 9/16/2009 10:24:08 AM
Author: glitterata
Good point, ma re.


That wasn''t a problem with Julia Taylor. She''s a wonderful craftsperson.

I totally agree, Glitter. My JKT silver/18K YG bezel pendant is beautifully made, her bezel work is brilliant. Initially it felt weird to wear something so light on my neck but I''m actually loving it now because it doesn''t feel like I''m wearing anything around the neck

!

 

[Upgradable]

Superior craftsmanship is my #1 priority in a piece. That''s one of the reasons I''m considering JKT for this piece, and if she can do an exceptional job in tarnish resistant silver, that may be the way to go with this.

 

[simplysplendid]

I''ve heard that it is possble to plate silver in white gold or platinum, perhaps that will resolve the oxidisation problem? I am all for setting in silver especially for pretty, inexpensive gems. It also makes a fun gift.