The Setting of the Idiot's Sapphire Engagement Ring

[gasdark]

So, a couple of weeks ago I started a thread to help me find a sapphire for my engagement ring. After a great deal of help and guidance, I did in fact purchase this sapphire from Jerry:



For further catch up on how I ended up there, as well as some awful pictures I tried to take of the gem when it arrived, feel free to read over the old post here:

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/sapphire-engagement-rings-for-the-bumbling-idiot.202645/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/sapphire-engagement-rings-for-the-bumbling-idiot.202645/[/URL]


That thread began to focus in on getting a setting, but someone suggested I start up an entirely different thread devoted to finding an affordable and/or right setting for the ring, with particular consideration given to the fact that I'm in NYC and apparently we have a great deal of talented jewelers I know nothing about.

In the interim, I've looked at the suggestions stemming from the other forum for settings and actually found something I like quite a lot:



This design, I think, is precisely the sort of thing I want. It's designed by Laurie Donovan, who was suggested by Movie Zombie, and it is basically exactly what I described when I conceived of the setting in the first place.

I've spoken to Laurie, and she's given me a series of quotes for this particular ring, but I have no idea if the quotes are reasonable. Keep in mind, they do not take into account the size of the ring, as I have no gotten a precise measurement yet - but I believe it's around a four.

Platinum - 2700
Paladium OR 14K White Gold - 2200
18K gold - 2450
Or Sterling Silver - $1000

I have several questions:
1) Is sterling silver a realistic option? And if so, is this a good price?
2) Has anyone else worked with Laurie before?
3) Are the other quotes about what to expect for good work? I have no frame of reference here.
4) Is the design I've chosen good? Meaning, does the fact that the stone is encased in metal reduce it's ability to catch light from below and the sides? Is it better to have the sides and bottom exposed?
5) Lastly, people in the other forum were saying I should look for stock pieces to set the stone in in order to save money. Does anyone have any suggestions for where to find quality jewelers with large stock in NYC. (this question, I realize, may be pretty dumb all things considered - but I'm really looking for someone who has had a colored stone properly set here in NYC and going in blind, I can't hardly tell the difference between the vendors)

These forums have brought me half way through this, and I'm hopeful we can go all the way now.

Thank you all.

D

 

[GliderPoss]

If this is for an engagement ring I would not use sterling silver - definitely gold or platinum. The stone & setting idea are absolutely lovely!

 

[movie zombie]

given what you stated about your girlfriend in the other thread, well, I would not discount silver.
most would not do an e-ring in silver but your GF is not like "most" here at pricescope.
yes, getting a custom made setting to fit your stone can and most likely will cost more.
a lot depends on the look you're going for......
for the naysayers re silver: I wear a silver ring not 24/7 but every time I leave the house...just as I do my 22k gold ring. such wear develops a "patina" on the silver BUT NOT TARNISH.
I would urge you to remember that this is a 'FOREVER' ring and thus over the course of time the cost of the setting will not really be that much, even if you go with platinum.
what metal does your GF like?
I would also say that I think you got a bargain on your sapphire [you knew already that I thought that!] and if you have to pay a designer for the ring you really like and think she will really enjoy wearing, well, go for it.....and for the record: yes, I'd wear your stone in that setting set in silver as an e-ring! but then admittedly I'm not "most" either......

 

[deskjockey]

I agree with Movie Zombie but I am not "most" either. I quite like the patina on some of my silver rings and typically prefer silver to gold. Personally I think it could fit quite nicely with the color and personality of the stone you picked, as well (not just because it saves me a little money!). Durability is certainly an issue, so I'd investigate that and decide what would work best for the type of wear she'd put it through. Is she likely to wear it every day, doing all kinds of activities? Is she more likely to wear it during the day and take it off for showering/housework/sleeping, etc?

 

[VirginiaZee]

On the vendors side, you might want to check out IDJ (they seem to have good reviews on here and reasonable prices), they're in the NYC diamond district.

 

[chrono]

The ring design is gorgeous but I have to admit my eyes bugged out at the quotation. Given that this is to be an everyday ring, I would go for either gold or platinum, preferably platinum as it holds up longer in the long run. I don't have issues with silver but I see it more as a lighter wear piece of jewellery. I have broken several silver pieces and those were occasional wear jewellery only.

In terms of design, how does the sapphire look when cupped (enclose the entire pavilion in the palm of your hand). You can also cover the pavilion with a very small piece of aluminium foil to mimic a bezel setting. I strongly prefer to have the pavilion area open rather than a tube style bezel to allow some light in from the sides.
How much does it darken?
Does it bring up another colour or play down another colour?
Does it affect the sparkle in any way?

 

[Niel]

I agree with chrono I would not use silver for an ering

If you wanted an alt metal I'd use palladium before I'd use silver.

Or if she was extra creative a mokume gane version of that ring could be in the cards. But that's if she really is looking for something extra alternative

 

[LD]

Like others I wouldn't use sterling silver for an e-ring. I actually work with sterling silver and the quote you've had is ludicrously high for that material! I suspect the jeweller didn't want to make it in that metal

 

[movie zombie]

this is not a delicate thin shank/setting.
I'd have no worries re silver...but that is me.
HOWEVER, I too think it was a high quote but then she is the designer and you are also paying for that.
again, it all comes down to what your GF wants!
you can please yourself, you can please us but at the end of the day it is your GF who is receiving the ring and will be wearing it.

 

[Lady_Disdain]

Like others I wouldn't use sterling silver for an e-ring. I actually work with sterling silver and the quote you've had is ludicrously high for that material! I suspect the jeweller didn't want to make it in that metal

It is simpler than that. It represents the same hourly rate and profit as gold. After all, Laurie Donovan has a full bench and charging less labour, overhead and profit doesn't make sense. Compare the cost of several grams of 18k with the price of the gold ring to get an idea.

 

[movie zombie]

Like others I wouldn't use sterling silver for an e-ring. I actually work with sterling silver and the quote you've had is ludicrously high for that material! I suspect the jeweller didn't want to make it in that metal

It is simpler than that. It represents the same hourly rate and profit as gold. After all, Laurie Donovan has a full bench and charging less labour, overhead and profit doesn't make sense. Compare the cost of several grams of 18k with the price of the gold ring to get an idea.

yep. it is the price we pay for a designer ring.

 

[gasdark]

Whoa!!! Mokume Gane! What in the world is that stuff? That looks awesome! I think it might be a very real contender. Any insight into options along those lines?

 

[movie zombie]

I love mokume gane!
almost went with that myself.
one day hubby and I will get new wedding bands and it will be mokume gane!
what is that budget again for a setting?
look at George Sawyer and James Binnion for some of the best.
and there are others as well.

oh, and I think you're getting hooked on fine jewelry!

 

[gasdark]

I would love to spend under a grabd for the setting if possible, but erd gave me a 1500 platinum quote and im certainly thinking about it. No idea what mokune gane goes for.

 

[MollyMalone]

I have a thinner version of this pink gold-silver mokume gane band & I like it a lot; thought it was reasonably priced (I'm fairly certain that your future wife, as you've described her, would flip out at the cost of, e.g., a George Saywer ring); and Emilie was a pleasure to deal with:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/72623830/large-pink-14k-gold-mokume-and-sterling

Because her bezels aren't great, I'm not suggesting Emilie for the e-ring. But I think she'd be a fine choice for wedding bands -- and that way, you'd get to have a mokume gane ring too!

 

[movie zombie]

there is the same range for mokume gane as there is for any other setting.
some practioners of "the art" have garnered designer names for themselves and do high end quality work and charge high end prices.
there are others that are novices and it shows in their work....and then there is everything in between.
do a search and you will see what I mean......
also, you really do need to see it before you decide it is something YOUR GF is interested in......
again, George sawyer and james binnion is your starting place.
you'll also find some vendors on etsy......
and then you have choices in what metals to use which is usually a mix of silver and golds to get that wood grain look.
also, some of Sawyer's older work is no longer available and I think I prefer it....wedding bands that over 20 years time that develop a patina and look that the new just doesn't have, imo.

eta: I think you've developed a champagne taste eye for finer jewelry....unfortunately, that means more $. most of us do have champagne taste and a beer budget. so you are not alone!

2nd eta: you have a lovely stone... remember you want the setting show case it, not fight with it.

 

[chrono]

Mokume gane can end up very pricey, especially if done well by an artisan. It is a rather busy design though and I much prefer it in a wedding band rather than e-ring. I would follow up with ERD on the platinum setting then.

 

[Lady_Disdain]

The big price divides in Mokume Gane are between the artisans who are preparing their own billets (blocks of layered metal fused together) from scratch, often with unusual materials, like Sawyer and Binnion; the artisans who buy prepared billets but create their own textures and patterns; and, finally, those who buy already patterned material and just shape it into a ring. I would avoid the last group (cheap but you will get what you pay for: visible seams, unoriginal patterns) but I would consider the second group for budget considerations, as long as you choose a good artisan who knows what they are doing. The first group is dreamy but pricy!

 

[Niel]

Sorry I wouldn't have said mokume gane if I knew you were trying to keep it under 1k.

I'd maybe look at sholdt and maybe palladium?
You could always pair it with a mokume gane wedding band (the twxtogether would be killer!)

These should be in budget

 

[gasdark]

Those are both immensely beautiful!

 

[Niel]

Those are both immensely beautiful!

I can't find a price for the first one but on Brian Gavin the second one in 14k gold is 1050

 

[deskjockey]

Those are both immensely beautiful!

I can't find a price for the first one but on Brian Gavin the second one in 14k gold is 1050

That second one is just gorgeous.

Also, gasdark, some other food for thought:

https://www.josephjewelry.com/contemporary-split-shank-solitaire-engagement-ring-1479

https://www.josephjewelry.com/custom-solitaire-diamond-interlocking-engagement-ring-100623

https://www.josephjewelry.com/custom-two-tone-alexandrite-and-diamond-engagement-ring-101566?page=2

They do custom stuff, back when I wanted a custom ring I found a lot of inspiration there

 

[Niel]

This one has diamonds. From what it sounds like those aren't in the cards. But its lovely so I figured I'd share

 

[gasdark]

Neil, where are you finding the 1050 quote for the second image? I cant find the ring on gavins website.

 

[MollyMalone]

Flora is amongst the solitaire mountings on the BG web site:
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/flora-sholdt-14k-white-gold-5347w14

 

[velouriaL]

No matter who you buy it from, make sure you get someone who has a lot of experience setting colored gems to set it. That Montana sapphire will be near impossible to replace because of its size and cutting. Maybe Jerry can do it? Whomever it is, ask about what will happen if the gem is damaged in setting. You want to have a clear worst case scenario plan.

For this reason, I would look into Michael E from Gemshoppe. He is a lapidarist as well as a jeweler. If you search on ps, you'll see many happy customers dating back a decade. He is great to work with and offers competitive prices. I can link directly to the pictures, but if you go here - http://gemshoppe.com/html/round_rings.html - you'll see some rings that you might like. There's a teal stone in a full bezel swirl on the the third page, a parti-sapphire in a swirl semi-bezel on the fourth page, a clear stone in a swirl wedding set on the fifth page. He's in Washington state, but is easy to work with long distance.

I would also contact Daniel M on etsy. He does very nice work and has set a lot of colored stones for PSers. Look through his back catalog of sold items to get a sense of the variety of what he does. He's in Massachusetts.

Perhaps you might ask for a brushed, matte or hammered gold finish on the ring. That gives a similar organic vibe as mokume gane, though of course less complex.

Yvonne Raley makes these twig bands: https://www.etsy.com/shop/yvonneraley?section_id=7379756&ref=shopsection_leftnav_4
I don't think she sets outside gems, but perhaps she would make a twig engagement ring setting to your stone dimensions and then you could have it set locally.


I would try as much as possible to stick to white gold. I think it's the right balance of price, durability, and ease of future work.

 

[Niel]

To vL's point, sholdt will do a few different finishes on there settings. Matte could be cool!

 

[gasdark]

So I spoke to Brian's people and the flora is quoted at 2150 for a platinum setting. I'm thinking I'll use the flora picture as the new baseline inspiration photo and see what kind of quote I can get at ERD.

I asked ERD about setting sapphires and they said:

Colored stones make up about 10% of there setting.
He had not himself seen a stone damaged.
But in any case, we would arrange it so that I had insurance with Jeweler's mutual before they ever took possession of the stone, let alone began work. Basically, I would pay a deposit, they would give me a work order, I would order the insurance, and they would set the stone in the ring, then give assessment papers for the ring and I would just increase the insurance coverage to the new value of the total ring.

As I understand it, if the sapphire is damaged, I'm cut a check from Jewelers mutual - which obviously doesn't replace this very particular jewel, but at least I'm monetarily not put out at all.

Does this all sound kosher?

As far as ERD is concerned, anyone have any experience with their colored stone work before?

 

[gasdark]

As an aside, am I crazy, or might the sapphire look quite nice with the Flora in yellow gold?

 

[Niel]

As an aside, am I crazy, or might the sapphire look quite nice with the Flora in yellow gold?

Not crazy at all. I think it would be amazing.

BUT

Would she like it? That's more important. Not everyone likes yellow gold.