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Step-Cuts: Protect the corners & lose sparkle?

monipod

Brilliant_Rock
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Jun 25, 2019
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I'm now in the process of designing a ring for my new Asscher. I was always of the school of thought that the corners of step-cuts should be protected by prongs or bezels, but after playing around with my loose stone, I couldn't help but notice that a lot of lovely fire comes off the corners. If by covering them up with prongs, am I losing out on sparke? Obviously the case with bezel set but should I aim for a single claw, or double claw that sits close to the corners but let enough light to dance with the edges? Or am I just imagining things and covering the corners up won't make much difference? Thanks in advance!
 

Karl_K

Super_Ideal_Rock
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I have held in my hand Asschers that are well over 100 years old that were in perfect condition being worn in 4 prong heads held on the windmill flats the entire time passing down in a family.

Yes the corners are the weakest spot on a step cut girdle but with a reasonable girdle you could probably smash a princess cut into bits with one without a lot of damage(do not try this at home :})
 

dk168

Super_Ideal_Rock
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How about the bigger bar prongs?

DK :))
 

monipod

Brilliant_Rock
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Thank you @Karl_K and @Garry H (Cut Nut)! I was hoping you'd weigh in :D
I'd rather have minimal metal on the stone and maximise the facets, however small they are.

@dk168 - Do you mean the prongs that run along the corner edge? I did think about it but it's literally the tiny corners that throw some amazing fire to me so I'm thinking of leaving them exposed. My Asscher is only a baby so that edge isn't that big ;)2
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
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Thank you @Karl_K and @Garry H (Cut Nut)! I was hoping you'd weigh in :D
I'd rather have minimal metal on the stone and maximise the facets, however small they are.

@dk168 - Do you mean the prongs that run along the corner edge? I did think about it but it's literally the tiny corners that throw some amazing fire to me so I'm thinking of leaving them exposed. My Asscher is only a baby so that edge isn't that big ;)2

Single claw prongs should protect the corner, but allow light play.
 

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Dec 17, 2008
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I think NSEW prongs would be lovely on an asscher. Do the pros' think that would be a no-no or safe as long as the girdle is not thin?
@Karl_K @Garry H (Cut Nut)
 

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Dec 17, 2008
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I believe there's been some recent discussion on the compass set prongs being reflected through the stone in step cuts.

Wouldnt want that!
 

monipod

Brilliant_Rock
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Jun 25, 2019
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Wouldnt want that!

I had a look at some NSEW prongs on emerald cuts on Instagram and you can indeed see the prongs reflected. Such a shame as it look good!
 

Karl_K

Super_Ideal_Rock
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I think NSEW prongs would be lovely on an asscher. Do the pros' think that would be a no-no or safe as long as the girdle is not thin?
@Karl_K @Garry H (Cut Nut)
I have my Octavia mounted on the side flats.
No reflection and its fine. Its a pendant but I would be ok with a ring that way.
So it depend on the stone. Yes some will reflect the prongs all over the place with them on the flats.
 

Karl_K

Super_Ideal_Rock
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For smaller ECs mounting them rotated just hold it on the narrow ends. problem solved as they do not reflect into the stone as bad as the long side.
 
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