Should I ask vendor to remake this ring?

[KirstLWA]

My band was supposed to show the scalloped effect and have the prongs pinched in towards the stones so you could see the outline of each stone.

It’s handmade platinum and the stones are 3 points each.

I think they made the prongs too big so can’t squeeze them in any further to give the scalloped look. I presume you can get that look with 3 point stones?

The ring is nice but not what I envisaged so I can’t decide if I should accept it as is or ask them to remake it as I originally discussed.

What if it doesn’t look as nice together when remade???

What are your thoughts? Stick with what I have or request the remake? Do you think it will look nicer together with the princess band if there is a visual difference and not just 2 straight bands?

Also, is unsettling the diamonds and shaving down the prongs, then resetting getting more of a pinch together an option or will that damage the stones?

Please help me decide! Or tell me to stop obsessing!

Thanks! Now for pics!

 

[foxinsox]

I think it’s a nice band but those prongs look like they’re half the size of each stone! I wouldn’t be very happy to get that if I was after a scalloped look.
What inspiration did you give them to use as a model or have they done this before so said you didn’t need to?
I would take the inspiration in to show them and just point out where your band differs. They’ll probably have to remake it

 

[KirstLWA]

Thanks foxinsox!

Do you think the band would look nicer scalloped or straight as is but refined prongs?

 

[foxinsox]

Well I like it as is but I do think the scalloped look would be really pretty. I’m a bit rubbish at visualising whether it would look better scalloped than straight. More refined prongs would be ideal if you decide you want to keep it straight though.

 

[KirstLWA]

Thanks! I’m thinking for stacking purposes the visual difference would be nice but for a matching set the straight works!

With consideration for the engagement ring I just can’t decide!

Thanks again for responding!

 

[Sunstorm]

I agree that the prongs could be smaller, daintier. I personally find the scalloped look is very pretty but it does look nice straight too.

Problem is, I would not unset these stones. You can try to talk to the person who made your ring but unsetting stones, especially so many small stones does pose a risk. It is always there but easier done with a larger stone in a simple four or six prong. You mentioned that these are blue diamonds, I can see a bluish greyish tint to them, I am assuming that they are natural blues? If they are and thus quite valuable (even if not very highly saturated and with a modifier), I would leave them as is and not mess with them.

Even if the risk is small, I did once have a quite valuable, larger FCD damaged thanks to resetting, not common but can happen to even the best setter. There is a very tiny chip on the girdle with a very tiny feather, the stone did have inclusions and a thinner girdle around the area but personally I would not risk it especially when it is harder to take out many smaller stones.

 

[KirstLWA]

Thank you Sunstorm, yes they are natural blues and I would hate to damage one!

Do you know if there is a way to refine the prongs with them Insitu, although I doubt they can get them small enough to pinch them in more without removing them!

I wonder if refining the outer and inner edge of the band and prongs will help?

 

[Sunstorm]

It depends on the skill of the artisan. If you have a highly skilled craftsman then yes you can refine the prongs. It can be done and is often done by mine. That said again they have to exercise a lot of care and use tools that will not damage the stones.

The stones are lovely BTW, I also enjoy lighter blues a lot.

I think you should ask yourself whether you can love the ring as is but talking to the person who made your ring cannot hurt. I sometimes find with my own newly completed pieces that I would like to change XYZ but often end up leaving them. I get used to small variations even get to like them. If is something that I really want differently done then I change it or make a new piece and when perfect in my own opinion I keep that. In your case of course that is not possible.

Try wearing it for a while but also discuss options to refine prongs and edges. This may be your solution.

 

[tyty333]

Well, I dont think it looks great the way it is. I think its going to be difficult to get a scalloped look with 3 pointers unless you went to a single
prong in between the stones. I think you would need a true artisan like a Leon Mege to get you a scallop look with these size stones (2mm right)?


I would go with single prongs or ask them to redo it. Not sure if it will turn out much better though. Fingers crossed.

 

[MissGotRocks]

I would definitely shop that around to find someone that can successfully make the band more delicate. The setting that the blue diamonds are in now is very heavy and overpowering for stones of that size. I am always a bit hesitant to recommend that the same jeweler remake a piece; I sort of feel like they gave it their best shot to begin with. You might try contacting David Klass to get his thoughts on resetting the band.

 

[Tekate]

I too think the prongs are just too thick or big, but in reading what @Sunstorm said (and he/she is in the business) I would be hesitant to take them out! the stones are just beautiful, I think they are sort of hard to see with the thick prongs! I would ask my jeweler/bench to try and hone the down... both rings are lovely btw! great taste.

 

[Sunstorm]

Hi Tekate. I am a girl, well not so much of a girl anymore but I still feel like it.

KirstLWA I think when I was reading your other thread I had a hard time seeing the color of the stones in part because of the setting.

I am not recommending to go to the same bench, for whatever you change someone who has a lot of skill would be required even for thinning out the prongs. You have to get it right and while it is less risky than resetting such small stones but not entirely without one either. A slip of the hand with a tool (especially a diamond file) is all you need to achieve damage.

First find someone skillful enough. Of course remaking the ring entirely would be the best option but probably costly because I would have it handmade and more risky.

It is just that I see a lot of melee sold on the market today that was unset and over 30 % of them are damaged. Cheaper, mass produced jewelry lines often use recycled melee as well and you can see it. Some of it is damaged due to wear of course but many are damaged because of not enough care while unsetting the stones, it is a meticulous job with melee.

I am not saying do not do it at all, consult with recommended jewelers and get opinions and quotes.

 

[KirstLWA]

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate your feedback!

I’m going to go back and talk to them about refining it all a little more and see if I’m confident they can do it. Then get the loupe on each diamond before accepting it back!

They might need to take some of the bulk from underneath so it is balanced and looks good all around which will result in it being a different height to the princess band. Do you think this is a problem? Will it look worse?

I guess it means when they make the engagement solitaire the band won’t need to be as thick either.

This was my original inspiration which I put together at the vendor:



But am leaning towards a plain shank now! Not 100% sold but considering it!

But I just feel the blue band needs some shape to it like above with the middle band!

 

[KirstLWA]

@Sunstorm, these bands are both handmade so will go handmade.

Does handmade result in a more delicate setting and finer prongs, over a cad/cast Ring?

Do you have any designer eye recommendations for the engagement ring band (plain or pave) with a 2.5-3ct stone?

Maybe if I get pave, I can ask for the band prongs to be finer and get the scalloped look to break up the straightness on that one and leave my blue one as is?

Just don’t want to look at a finger full of prongs!

 

[mrsgreeneyes]

You can absolutely get a scalloped look with 3 pointers! This is my band done by David Klass, and my top stipulation was to not lose the round shape of the diamonds.



https://www.instagram.com/p/BYiklH0FyhG/?hl=en

 

[KirstLWA]

You can absolutely get a scalloped look with 3 pointers! This is my band done by David Klass, and my top stipulation was to not lose the round shape of the diamonds.



https://www.instagram.com/p/BYiklH0FyhG/?hl=en

Thank you so much Mrs Greeneyes.

Would you mind posting me other angles - side profile etc. I really appreciate you posting. I can show this to the jeweler.

Your rings are beautiful.

 

[mrsgreeneyes]

Thank you so much Mrs Greeneyes.

Would you mind posting me other angles - side profile etc. I really appreciate you posting. I can show this to the jeweler.

Your rings are beautiful.

Thank you! Did you see the video on the Instagram link? Unfortunately I no longer have the band so I’m unable to take any further pictures for you, though I do have this CAD that you could try using.

 

[mrsgreeneyes]

Are you committed to prong set or would you be open to bezel set? A bezel setting would guarantee the scallop look. I had mine reset into a bezel setting with hand milgrain, also done by David Klass. It is super comfortable and gives the illusion that the stones are a touch bigger.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BbH7iUBFNYk/?hl=en

 

[PintoBean]

I would suggest asking the jeweler to show you more examples of their work with finer prongs before deciding to have them remake the ring. If all their work consistently has thicker prongs, then don't bother having them redo the setting.

 

[KirstLWA]

I would suggest asking the jeweler to show you more examples of their work with finer prongs before deciding to have them remake the ring. If all their work consistently has thicker prongs, then don't bother having them redo the setting.

The inspiration pic I posted above are all their rings from their showroom and all look great. The prongs were very minimal and looked great.

I wonder if perhaps because my rings are handmade that the prongs might be thicker as the ones I tried on above I presume are cast. Can handmade be more delicate than cast?

 

[KirstLWA]

Thank you! Did you see the video on the Instagram link? Unfortunately I no longer have the band so I’m unable to take any further pictures for you, though I do have this CAD that you could try using.

I did look at the video and it looks like they are all individually set in little crowns. Gorgeous. Is that correct?

I really like being able to see all sides to the diamond, hence going the u prong.

 

[PintoBean]

Are you saying that it's handforged? Whether it's cad cast or handforged they always can finish the prongs to be as thick or thin as you like. But the claws can only be as fine as the bench has the capacity and talent to achieve it.

 

[KirstLWA]

Are you saying that it's handforged? Whether it's cad cast or handforged they always can finish the prongs to be as thick or thin as you like. But the claws can only be as fine as the bench has the capacity and talent to achieve it.

Yes, mine were hand forged.

The princess cut u prong eternity is excellent and the actual quality of the blue band is fantastic, the attention to detail is great, but it's just not the scalloped effect we designed and the prongs are too big for the stones, but the way they have built it up underneath to match the height off the finger looks neater than I could have hoped and apart from the prongs, I am absolutely in love with both bands, I just need a visual point of difference with the scallops rather than 2 straight bands.

 

[PintoBean]

Here are earring jackets in 3 and 5 pointers which have the scalloped effect I believe you're looking for. As you can see, the prongs need to be pinched towards the center to give the effect.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/idj-jackets-6mm-with-3pt-and-5mm-with-5pt.186983/

 

[LLJsmom]

Yes the right jeweler can make very refined hand forged pieces. Victor Canera, Steven Kirsch and Leon Mege, and SingleStone among others, all make hand forged pieces that are more fine and delicate than the band made by your jeweler. Hand forging is not the issue. It’s skill level.

I’ll try to post links to their work.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/post-your-victor-canera-beauties-here.175281/

Caysie does beautiful cast and handmade pieces.
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...-jewelry-the-new-cvb-eye-candy-thread.211825/

Annoying that I can’t find the Steven Kirsch thread. Just search under his name.

David Klass also does lovely cast and handmade pieces. Go through his thread and you will see many examples of fine work.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-david-klass-bling.196654/

 

[KirstLWA]

Yes the right jeweler can make very refined hand forged pieces. Victor Canera, Steven Kirsch and Leon Mege, and SingleStone among others, all make hand forged pieces that are more fine and delicate than the band made by your jeweler. Hand forging is not the issue. It’s skill level.

I’ll try to post links to their work.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/post-your-victor-canera-beauties-here.175281/

Caysie does beautiful cast and handmade pieces.
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...-jewelry-the-new-cvb-eye-candy-thread.211825/

Annoying that I can’t find the Steven Kirsch thread. Just search under his name.

David Klass also does lovely cast and handmade pieces. Go through his thread and you will see many examples of fine work.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-david-klass-bling.196654/

Thanks LLJsmom. I appreciate you taking the time to post those threads and I will look through them for examples of what is achievable and show them to my jeweler however unfortunately, I can't imagine sending my bands overseas. I really couldn't bring myself to do it

 

[Sunstorm]

Well, I am one who is all for hand forging, at least doing most steps in the process by hand. However, the main difference is that hand forged pieces are more organic looking than cast. Today cast pieces cab be nice as well and many steps still have to be finished by hand.

It really does not matter if the piece is cast or entirely hand forged when it comes to the prongs because they are filed down by hand. If they are filed down at all, here they do not really seem to be thinned out on your ring. That is lack of attention to detail and/or perhaps skill.

Filing down the prongs does require a lot of skill and care since yes you can cause damage to a diamond by filing down prongs as well. Not trying to scare you but I agree with everything Pinto said above, follow her advise, make sure you pick a jeweler/bench that has the skill. That is the most important factor here.