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Re-setting a marquise diamond?

KKJohnson

Brilliant_Rock
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I have used David Klass on several projects now and he sent my antique marquise off to GIA for grading, it was very handy since it was all done in California. I wasn’t to suggest CvB since you liked the Greenlake designs

 

Emerald City

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I have used David Klass on several projects now and he sent my antique marquise off to GIA for grading, it was very handy since it was all done in California. I wasn’t to suggest CvB since you liked the Greenlake designs


Those are gorgeous and very much my style! Thank you so much for the recommendation :) Now I have more to ponder! I am very, very picky and exacting and the more fodder for contemplation, the better. :)
 

MollyMalone

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Another suggestion for you: Joseph Jewelers. They have a showroom in Seattle proper, but their jewelry designers & their “bench” are connected to the Bellevue showroom, so that’s where you’d go.
Top notch work (including masterful, hand engraving) and, if some PSers’ past experiences hold true for today, for less than Green Lake’s prices.

Have fun!
 

tyty333

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I think a lot depends on your budget too (darn budgets)...how much are you looking to spend on the new setting? Some designers pretty
much do all the work for you (and since you are new to custom designs I suggest you go with someone that handles everything) and
other vendors like DK require a lot of input from you and do exactly what you tell them (so if you dont know what you're doing it could
end up bad). He works fine if you have a picture of a ring and you want yours to be pretty much the same (maybe with some minor changes).

DK is on the lesser expensive side (not cheap by any means but not like a hand-forged designer that might cost you double or maybe triple what
DK charges but it wont be hand-forged either.
 

Austina

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When you ask if it’d look ridiculous on your hand, do you mean too big or too small?

I have a 1.13ct marquise in a halo and split shank on my 6.75 size finger, and I love the coverage it gives.

652778
 

AV_

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Digressing,

The pearls much be wonderful to have been strung with such a clasp! DREAM
 

Niel

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Dimensions would have to be the same but this would be fab
 

MollyMalone

Ideal_Rock
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For a cautionary advisory about showcase sample rings, like the lovely Noam Carver ring that Niel found on eBay, click on this link to see comments from PS Trade Member Karl K and me:
]https://www.pricescope.com/communit...stuller-solstice-setting.251522/#post-4619200[

* * * I'm now thinking that something Celtic, with nature elements, is what I am looking for. * * *
In light of this comment, I'll also suggest that you look at Maevona settings;
Looks as if LT Denny Jewelers in Seattle is a Maevona retailer:
If you find a Maevona setting, or another one from a "brand" like Scholdt, that you like, that offers you the What You See Is What You Get advantage that sailing into the more uncharted waters of "from scratch" custom design and fabrication does not.

But even if going the full custom route appeals most to you, I'll strongly recommend that you first try on a number of settings.. I know I'm not the only person, who discovered in the course of "auditioning" settings in real life, that what I thought I wanted was not what ended up appealing to me the most once I tried different settings on my hand ;))
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Messages
381
Another suggestion for you: Joseph Jewelers. They have a showroom in Seattle proper, but their jewelry designers & their “bench” are connected to the Bellevue showroom, so that’s where you’d go.
Top notch work (including masterful, hand engraving) and, if some PSers’ past experiences hold true for today, for less than Green Lake’s prices.

Have fun!

I perused their site and their designs speak to me as Greenlake's do. Thank you very much for pointing me in that direction! I tell ya, I've gone from hating filigree to loving it. Hand-made makes all the difference :)
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Jun 1, 2020
Messages
381
I think a lot depends on your budget too (darn budgets)...how much are you looking to spend on the new setting? Some designers pretty
much do all the work for you (and since you are new to custom designs I suggest you go with someone that handles everything) and
other vendors like DK require a lot of input from you and do exactly what you tell them (so if you dont know what you're doing it could
end up bad). He works fine if you have a picture of a ring and you want yours to be pretty much the same (maybe with some minor changes).

DK is on the lesser expensive side (not cheap by any means but not like a hand-forged designer that might cost you double or maybe triple what
DK charges but it wont be hand-forged either.

You raise some excellent points. My husband and I actually haven't sat down and hashed out a budget yet; I'm still pondering what style I'd like (I'm EXTREMELY picky, I probably fit right in here in that I was able to notice that my wedding band was 2.8mm instead of the 3mm it was supposed to be) and probably a nightmare customer in that I want to see every kind of design, cycle through several iterations of a theme, before settling on something. And then I want to set it aside for a couple of weeks, just to make sure it's what I want! My husband deserves a medal for putting up with me for so long :) This stone deserves a dream setting, so if what I decide upon is out of whatever budget is agreed upon, I'd just have to wait until the budget could fit. It's too pretty to settle... and I'm the type where I'd never be happy if I settled too much on a ring design.

I'm really intrigued about working with David Klass at this point. Does he do diamond grading as well, or would I still have to send out my stone to GIA for assessment?
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Jun 1, 2020
Messages
381
When you ask if it’d look ridiculous on your hand, do you mean too big or too small?

I have a 1.13ct marquise in a halo and split shank on my 6.75 size finger, and I love the coverage it gives.

128A447E-891E-4A05-9703-CE31B4CA6064.jpeg

Ooooh, shiny!! That is gorgeous!!!

I meant I'm worried about the stone looking too small. I am really tall (5'11") and have large hands, and I'm quite self-conscious about them. I don't want people to quietly laugh to themselves about how small the stone looks or something. Still carrying around baggage from years of being taller than most of the men I come across. If there's a "sheepish" emoticon, it goes [ ] right there.

I love your ring! It's really stunning. Yep, that's about the size of my precious :) I am not generally a fan of halo settings, but yours is a game changer. It really does make the stone look huge! I would have guessed your stone was 2 carats or so. And it has an impressive amount of finger coverage! Well done :)

Must re-think halo settings!!!
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Digressing,

The pearls much be wonderful to have been strung with such a clasp! DREAM

What is life without a little digression here or there? :)

They're cultured pearls with really thick nacre and a lustre that is to die for. These are top of the line. I feel so lucky that I stumbled across a piece like this! Apparently the necklace was made around 1920, but it's also possible it was made much earlier. It was purchased in Japan in 1920, according to the seller. Thank you for the compliment :) I quite love them myself!
 
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Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Dimensions would have to be the same but this would be fab

That's a really cool setting! I am not sure E-W is where I want to go yet, but I haven't ruled it out. I love rings that have platinum/white gold prongs and yellow shanks; they make my heart sing :)
 

GliderPoss

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Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Jun 1, 2020
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For a cautionary advisory about showcase sample rings, like the lovely Noam Carver ring that Niel found on eBay, click on this link to see comments from PS Trade Member Karl K and me:
]https://www.pricescope.com/communit...stuller-solstice-setting.251522/#post-4619200[


In light of this comment, I'll also suggest that you look at Maevona settings;
Looks as if LT Denny Jewelers in Seattle is a Maevona retailer:
If you find a Maevona setting, or another one from a "brand" like Scholdt, that you like, that offers you the What You See Is What You Get advantage that sailing into the more uncharted waters of "from scratch" custom design and fabrication does not.

But even if going the full custom route appeals most to you, I'll strongly recommend that you first try on a number of settings.. I know I'm not the only person, who discovered in the course of "auditioning" settings in real life, that what I thought I wanted was not what ended up appealing to me the most once I tried different settings on my hand ;))

So much good stuff here! First: The MaeVona settings are a really neat blend of classic and modern. I like the streamlined look. I tend to go either over-the-top ornate or severely simple, so there is a lot to mine there for ideas :) Thank you for that!

Second, I have to ask: Since I'm new to this whole custom ring thing, what are the pitfalls I should be aware of? That sounds like a REALLY obvious question, but as I've mentioned, often the most obvious things go right past me as I focus on the "fun" part - in this case, looking at settings, lol.

That's great advice, to try on different settings to see if I'd actually like it in person. I have my eye on a diamond eternity band in future (way in future, lol), but I recently bought a $10 ring in the style I thought I'd like. I hated it! Good to know before spending $5k, right? But how do I do that if I decide I want to go completely custom, and there aren't any rings around to try on like mine? Do I try to find something that is at least comparable and try that on?

I appreciate all the help; I really have no idea what I'm doing with this!! :(
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Messages
381
For a cautionary advisory about showcase sample rings, like the lovely Noam Carver ring that Niel found on eBay, click on this link to see comments from PS Trade Member Karl K and me:
]https://www.pricescope.com/communit...stuller-solstice-setting.251522/#post-4619200[


In light of this comment, I'll also suggest that you look at Maevona settings;
Looks as if LT Denny Jewelers in Seattle is a Maevona retailer:
If you find a Maevona setting, or another one from a "brand" like Scholdt, that you like, that offers you the What You See Is What You Get advantage that sailing into the more uncharted waters of "from scratch" custom design and fabrication does not.

But even if going the full custom route appeals most to you, I'll strongly recommend that you first try on a number of settings.. I know I'm not the only person, who discovered in the course of "auditioning" settings in real life, that what I thought I wanted was not what ended up appealing to me the most once I tried different settings on my hand ;))

Thank you for linking that thread! I read it and the thread which was linked within, about re-setting a larger stone in a fussy Tacori design. Really neat stuff! Good to know about prongs and white gold's relative weakness in prong form, as I shakily embark on this journey :)
 

AV_

Ideal_Rock
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Messages
3,889
@Emerald City 1920! - as far as I remember, cultured pearls had only been around in Europe for less than ten years then, & still belonged within the old market of wilds. Maybe the clasp could be restrung as a side clasp to show up below the shoulder, before any other decision regarding the diamond [I haven't caught up with the rest of the thread ,( ]
 
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Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Jun 1, 2020
Messages
381
@Emerald City 1920! - as far as I remember, cultured pearls had only been around in Europe for less than ten years then, & still belonged within the old market of wilds. Maybe the clasp could be restrung as a side clasp to show up below the shoulder, before any other decision regarding the diamond [I haven't caught up with the rest of the thread ,( ]

That is an idea I hadn't considered! Hmm. Maybe for my other strands of pearls, which have consistent pearl size. The pearls in this necklace are graduated in size, so I worry that might look a bit... unbalanced? Ultimately I would really love making a ring out of the stone, methinks. I am disabled so I don't really leave the house except for doctor's appointments. I don't wear the pearls (except occasionally, just to have some fun with them), but I always wear at least 1 ring.

It's such a pretty stone - it seems a shame to leave it on a clasp, when these wonderful pearls are the real stars of that particular show! By the way, I didn't know that cultured pearls were so new to Europe around 1920. Were pearls first cultured in Japan? (I really should do some research!) The necklace seems even more unusual to me in light of this information. The seller said it likely was an antique by the time it was purchased by her grandmother in 1920, but she couldn't be sure. It's thrilling to imagine the history of this piece, though!
 
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AV_

Ideal_Rock
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@Emerald City Japan is the source, true enough, and by 1920 there were enough cultured pearls in Europe that efforts to identify wild versus cultured had become very elaborate - eg. www , www [ I recall another report like these, telling of how the first Xray machines - then a novelty, were used to discover nuclei inside cultured pearls & such, not so easy then] The discussion about value was very much like that of made diamonds today [the reference escapes, will dig - it is a fun book]. I have read [for no good reason...] some share of this sort of literature in French & English, but the really good stuff appears to have been German [peeve ,( ] ... ramble

I hardly ever hear of strands like yours & I am not sure I have seen one that was not mixed natural & early cultureds.

2c

_

ps.

No, I wouldn't thing the clasp would be not balanced on a graduated strand, as long as it fits with the neighbouring pearls; this is to toy with.

caveat emptor: I'd wear such pearls on my penholder - the one object I see most


Then,

The marquise might be possible to set like this without taking it out of its bezel - www [off the cuff!]
 
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Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Messages
381
@Emerald City Japan is the source, true enough, and by 1920 there were enough cultured pearls in Europe that efforts to identify wild versus cultured had become very elaborate - eg. www , www [ I recall another report like these, telling of how the first Xray machines - then a novelty, were used to discover nuclei inside cultured pearls & such, not so easy then] The discussion about value was very much like that of made diamonds today [the reference escapes, will dig - it is a fun book]. I have read [for no good reason...] some share of this sort of literature in French & English, but the really good stuff appears to have been German [peeve ,( ] ... ramble

I hardly ever hear of strands like yours & I am not sure I have seen one that was not mixed natural & early cultureds.

2c

_

ps.

No, I wouldn't thing the clasp would be not balanced on a graduated strand, as long as it fits with the neighbouring pearls; this is to toy with.

caveat emptor: I'd wear such pearls on my penholder - the one object I see most


Then,

The marquise might be possible to set like this without taking it out of its bezel - www [off the cuff!]

This is so neat!! I think I remember reading about early efforts to X-ray pearls, although the context had been forgotten. I actually read German; I could perhaps help with that part? :)

I double-checked the Swiss report, and it says the pearls conform to "saltwater cultured pearls," which "might be called Akoya pearls in the trade." No naturals :( That would have been AMAZING! Personally I feel pearls get relatively short shrift as people ooh and aah over diamonds and other harder stones; the natural pearls used in royal jewelry, for instance, were far rarer and more precious than the gemstones. Blasphemous, I know! I, too, love diamonds and all the rest, but pearls are truly rare.

And I've really enjoyed discussing pearls with you :) I am worried about digressing too much; should we start a thread in the pearl section about early cultured pearls? :D
 

Ibrakeforpossums

Ideal_Rock
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Mar 21, 2019
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2,545
A few points to keep in mind when choosing a setter for a marquise ( much of this goes for any shape):
First of all, are the two points on the ends of your IF Marquise!
My point is....Marquises do present some unique liabilities that most other shapes don't.
With a stone like yours, a small chip is a big deal.
IMO, any jeweler worth their salt will need to have this discussion with you before touching the stone

I can totally understand why a suggestion would be made that you should watch the person set it.
Understand, but disagree.
If there's any trust issue at all- I would suggest you should not allow that place to touch your stone.
I know I would never ask our best setters to work under observation- not that they'd comply anyway. The best setters are like...artists. Master craftsmen can be pretty temperamental.....

Last thing...you can find someone to set a 1carat diamond, here on 47th street, for $5- probably even less.
The Master Craftsmen ( craftspeople, actually) setters I know charge over $100
I would not let the $5 guy touch our stones......

PS- Good Luck!! It must be a magnificent stone- I am a marquise lover too!

Rockdiamond, thank you for that explanation. I had a local goldsmith tell me, "Two weeks at least, I have to walk around with it, just the right amount of caffeine."
 
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