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Re-setting a marquise diamond?

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Jun 1, 2020
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381
Hello, all,

I hope this is the right place for this post; if not, please point me in the right direction. I'm still quite new here and hesitant about where certain topics go.

So I have a 1 ct, D colour diamond, either FL or IF (I'm embarrassed to say I forgot which! - it still hasn't been appraised formally, merely looked at by a local jeweler) that is set in platinum as a clasp on some really old pearls. I am interested in re-setting this stone in a ring; but I'm hesitant to leave it unattended as it is such a nice diamond. Can anyone recommend a jeweler they trust? I'm still in the planning stages, by the way; I haven't decided, for instance, if I want the whole ring to be in platinum or just the head.

I know I sound a bit "precious" about my precious, but I've never owned such a nice diamond before.

I'm in the greater Seattle area; hopefully someone knows a jeweler around here! :)
 
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If you find a jeweler who has their bench on the premises, you could pop in to discuss your project, allow them to take precise measurements of your stone so that they can make the setting for you, and keep the diamond in your own possession until it’s time to set it; and then have them set it in front of you.
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
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381
If you find a jeweler who has their bench on the premises, you could pop in to discuss your project, allow them to take precise measurements of your stone so that they can make the setting for you, and keep the diamond in your own possession until it’s time to set it; and then have them set it in front of you.

I didn't know you could do that. That's a really good idea! Thanks :)
 
Joined
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I didn't know you could do that. That's a really good idea! Thanks :)

I’m not sure that every jeweler will allow this, but it’s definitely possible!

If you don’t find a jeweler you want to go with around you, there are some well known names that get discussed on PS all the time. I don’t personally have experience with any of them, but I would guess that the ones that are highly recommended here would be trustworthy!
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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I’m not sure that every jeweler will allow this, but it’s definitely possible!

If you don’t find a jeweler you want to go with around you, there are some well known names that get discussed on PS all the time. I don’t personally have experience with any of them, but I would guess that the ones that are highly recommended here would be trustworthy!

Yeah, I'd really like to stick with someone who has a good reputation here on PS. Can you point me to a particular thread/s or forum where this is discussed?

I really appreciate the help!!
 
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Yeah, I'd really like to stick with someone who has a good reputation here on PS. Can you point me to a particular thread/s or forum where this is discussed?

I really appreciate the help!!

Some names I see come up often are David Klass, Leon Mege, Victor Canera and Maytal Hannah amongst others. I don’t actually have any idea about their styles or handiwork as I rarely go through those threads, but if you search the names they should come up.
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Some names I see come up often are David Klass, Leon Mege, Victor Canera and Maytal Hannah. I don’t actually have any idea about their styles or handiwork as I rarely go through those threads, but if you search the names they should come up.

Awesome! Thank you so much for the leads :) :)
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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This might sound crazy, but would a 1 ct marquise look ridiculous on my size 7 hand?
 

MRBXXXFVVS1

Brilliant_Rock
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This might sound crazy, but would a 1 ct marquise look ridiculous on my size 7 hand?

You could do a halo or double halo to increase the bling factor and presence!
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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You could do a halo or double halo to increase the bling factor and presence!

That's true. I am just not a big fan of halos - at least, not the kind with small stones. I prefer a halo made of larger stones, like the ring in my avatar. I wonder how that would look with a marquise stone... I need to do some sketching of that.
 
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This might sound crazy, but would a 1 ct marquise look ridiculous on my size 7 hand?

Some options to up the finger coverage:

1) setting as a 3 stone ring (not my usual preference, but it could look good with the marquis)

2) setting east-west!

3) halo/double halo/ colored stone halo/ baguette halo?
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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And there is some amazing filigree work featured on the Greenlake site. This changes everything - I am now pondering a heavy sort of ring with just a solitaire and tons of filigree.
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Some options to up the finger coverage:

1) setting as a 3 stone ring (not my usual preference, but it could look good with the marquis)

2) setting east-west!

3) halo/double halo/ colored stone halo/ baguette halo?

Those are some great ideas. I think the 3-stone is most my style. I am really taken by the filigree work on the Greenlake site - and I was never really a fan of filigree! But they do an amazing job of it.
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Wow, I'm blown away by the Greenlake designs. They are really in line with my personal aesthetic. I'm now thinking that something Celtic, with nature elements, is what I am looking for. Thank you for the recommendations, and for all the suggestions. I feel like I have a much better idea of where to go and how it should look :)
 

Rockdiamond

Ideal_Rock
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A few points to keep in mind when choosing a setter for a marquise ( much of this goes for any shape):
First of all, are the two points on the ends of your IF Marquise!
My point is....Marquises do present some unique liabilities that most other shapes don't.
With a stone like yours, a small chip is a big deal.
IMO, any jeweler worth their salt will need to have this discussion with you before touching the stone

I can totally understand why a suggestion would be made that you should watch the person set it.
Understand, but disagree.
If there's any trust issue at all- I would suggest you should not allow that place to touch your stone.
I know I would never ask our best setters to work under observation- not that they'd comply anyway. The best setters are like...artists. Master craftsmen can be pretty temperamental.....

Last thing...you can find someone to set a 1carat diamond, here on 47th street, for $5- probably even less.
The Master Craftsmen ( craftspeople, actually) setters I know charge over $100
I would not let the $5 guy touch our stones......

PS- Good Luck!! It must be a magnificent stone- I am a marquise lover too!
 

motownmama

Ideal_Rock
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East/west bezel will increase its presence IMHO
 

1ofakind

Brilliant_Rock
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If there's any trust issue at all- I would suggest you should not allow that place to touch your stone.

This!! Local or not...if you feel like you have to watch them set your diamond then you haven't found the right jeweler for you. I've mailed my diamonds to David Klass with zero hesitation. I think I have also found a local jeweler for some projects and would not be hesitant. I think it would be weird to ask to watch, IMO.
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Messages
381
A few points to keep in mind when choosing a setter for a marquise ( much of this goes for any shape):
First of all, are the two points on the ends of your IF Marquise!
My point is....Marquises do present some unique liabilities that most other shapes don't.
With a stone like yours, a small chip is a big deal.
IMO, any jeweler worth their salt will need to have this discussion with you before touching the stone

I can totally understand why a suggestion would be made that you should watch the person set it.
Understand, but disagree.
If there's any trust issue at all- I would suggest you should not allow that place to touch your stone.
I know I would never ask our best setters to work under observation- not that they'd comply anyway. The best setters are like...artists. Master craftsmen can be pretty temperamental.....

Last thing...you can find someone to set a 1carat diamond, here on 47th street, for $5- probably even less.
The Master Craftsmen ( craftspeople, actually) setters I know charge over $100
I would not let the $5 guy touch our stones......

PS- Good Luck!! It must be a magnificent stone- I am a marquise lover too!

First: As a fellow pun-lover, allow me to hail the sharpness of your observations. ;-) That was awesome.

Secondly, I really appreciate the advice regarding chips! I did not know about that danger with this cut. Is there a particular setting that makes chipping more likely? As I learn more about this process, I learn how little I know!

Thirdly, I can see your point (hehe, that was unintentional) about watching the stone be set. I hadn't considered the other side's POV (a great failing, I admit), but that makes sense. I want to work with a jeweler I trust implicitly. I would really rather just leave them to it, so that they can relax and do their best work. I do feel protective of my stone, and of my Persian turquoise (a family heirloom brought back from Iran in the 70s); I want the jeweler I choose to treat them with the reverence with which I treat them.

This marquise is a real beauty. I bought it for a pittance online and louped it, and I actually thought it was CZ because there was just nothing under the loupe! A local jeweler looked at it and said that I had a rare find on my hands. He actually was reluctant to give it back, lol. I will post some pictures :)

I am going to make an appointment with Greenlake this coming week. I love their designs, and they do everything in-house, which is a huge plus! I hope they can re-string the pearls this diamond will be coming from; I forgot to ask while I was on the phone with them.

Thank you all again for the advice and recommendations. I am so grateful. :)
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Messages
381
This!! Local or not...if you feel like you have to watch them set your diamond then you haven't found the right jeweler for you. I've mailed my diamonds to David Klass with zero hesitation. I think I have also found a local jeweler for some projects and would not be hesitant. I think it would be weird to ask to watch, IMO.

That is really good to know! I have now heard several people speak of David Klass with respect. I Googled him; he is in LA, correct?
 

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Who certified the stone? GIA? AGS?
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Jun 1, 2020
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381
Who certified the stone? GIA? AGS?

I haven't a clue if it even is certified; I doubt it, actually. The pearl necklace, which dates from the 1920s, came with a certification from the Swiss Gemological Institute, but that was just for the pearls. No documentation for the diamond, merely a glance from a local jeweler. I haven't had it appraised, certified, or anything.
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Marquise1.jpg
Here is my little friend.
 

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
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I guess I'm wondering who graded D/IF or FI? It looks like a beautiful piece.

Edit...Since you want to have it reset you might have the jeweler send it to GIA and have it certified while it's out of the setting.
That way you'll know if it is a D/FI or IF or whatever it might be.
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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I guess I'm wondering who graded D/IF or FI? It looks like a beautiful piece.

That makes sense. I am just going by what the local jeweler said; he held up a couple of his own pieces next to it, spent a long time studying it (over 10 minutes, if I recall), and finally announced that he couldn't find any inclusions and that it was a really "rare" stone. It is as white as my CZ, though I know that doesn't count much toward hard, cold diamond grading. I should get it appraised, which the jeweler did recommend doing. It is a gorgeous stone; the sparkle is unreal. I loves it Gollum-style.

And thank you :) The pearls are really amazing. The nacre on them is incredibly thick, and the lustre quite spectacular. The necklace was made in Japan, probably around 1920.
 

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Wow! I love a piece with history...sounds lovely.
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
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Wow! I love a piece with history...sounds lovely.

I do, too. The ring in my avatar dates to approximately 1890. Antique and vintage pieces are fascinating! :)
 

Emerald City

Shiny_Rock
Joined
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Messages
381
I guess I'm wondering who graded D/IF or FI? It looks like a beautiful piece.

Edit...Since you want to have it reset you might have the jeweler send it to GIA and have it certified while it's out of the setting.
That way you'll know if it is a D/FI or IF or whatever it might be.

That is a great idea. Thank you :) I feel like such a newbie! So much to learn!! And I've never exactly been blessed with common sense. I am on the spectrum but high-functioning, so things that seem obvious to other people escape me completely. On the plus side, once something interests me, I read all I can about it.
 
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