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Question about how much metal to put around bezel.

iwantsparkle

Shiny_Rock
Joined
May 25, 2016
Messages
308
How did you decide?

I would like fine milgrain to surround the stone. I am having trouble deciding how thick the metal should be overall.

On one hand, I would think making it slightly bigger/thicker would make the stone seem bigger?

On the other hand, I imagine this is the part of the ring that comes into light contact the most - so maybe more metal means it could ding or flatten over time and look uneven? Has anyone had this issue? I was very careful with my last ring (four prong, no bezel) but daily wear is going to cause...light wear.

What is the safest bet? Or rather, how did you decide? I know that you run the risk of dings with any type of ring.

I guess I am wondering if this is pure preference (as long as it is safely constructed), or if anyone here is like "yeah, in hindsight I'd totally do XYZ."
 

iwantsparkle

Shiny_Rock
Joined
May 25, 2016
Messages
308
Secondary question:

Does anyone have strong opinions on OECs + bezel. Will this obstruct light? Is it frowned upon?

I see a mix here but I am not sure on the general consensus.
 

soxfan

Ideal_Rock
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Jun 20, 2013
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4,814
What setting are you talking about?
 

VRBeauty

Super_Ideal_Rock
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11,210
This thread shows a whole host of bezels, from minimal bezels to bezels that make a statement:
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-bezel-rings.121897/

A well-made bezel should not significantly obstruct light, since the light that's being reflected back to you primarily goes in through the top of the diamond. There are exceptions when you're working with very small diamonds. I once had a pair of .24 each diamond earrings set in bezels. Unfortunately the bezel rose up to maybe half the height of the tables, and did obscure enough light that it affected the diamonds' performance. But - this issue was caused by the combination of the height of the bezel and the very small stones. With larger stones, even a generous bezel would not create enough "shadow" to significantly affect diamond performance. And - some jewelers make bezels that have virtually no rise (the James Meyer rings in the "bezels" thread, for example).

By the way, I've been wearing a JM bezel-set, platform-style ring almost every day for four or five years now. The it's a pretty high platform - the center bezel sits about 4mm above the shank (center to center), and it does get banged up a bit. You really don't see any damage, though. The center stone is actually set in a double bezel: smooth outer bezel and milgrained inner bezel. The milgrain is on the side of the bezel, not the top - and it's still in excellent shape and really doesn't show any wear. (The ring is mostly 18k gold, but I believe the inner bezels are platinum.)
 

GeorgieQ

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Nov 8, 2013
Messages
667
Thank you soooo much for asking this question iwantsparkle! :appl: I am in exactly the same boat at the moment with my avc, trying to decide what size bezel. For me a bezel is really the only way to go simply because I'm paranoid about a prong coming loose and my stone falling out (silly I know but I just can't get past it). I feel like I've read every bezel post on here but nothing really answers your (our) specific question. Personally I do think an old cut looks great in a bezel (look at Single Stone) but I also think the amount of metal around the bezel has the potential to really make or break the look. I'm having a consult with my jeweller tomorrow, she loves bezels and has a great eye so I'll let you know what she recommends for my avc. :)
 

GeorgieQ

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Nov 8, 2013
Messages
667
Sorry to thread jack iwantsparkle, VRbeauty do you happen to have any pics of your ring?
 

iwantsparkle

Shiny_Rock
Joined
May 25, 2016
Messages
308
soxfan|1475004434|4081340 said:
What setting are you talking about?

I am having Adam/OWD make a setting for me so I am trying to decide what to make. I am looking at bezels here and on Pinterest, etc.

I am not sure if I should go for thin/no substantial metal beyond the milgrain, or if I should do a double bezel. (Milgrain and then smooth metal outside of that.)
 

iwantsparkle

Shiny_Rock
Joined
May 25, 2016
Messages
308
VRBeauty|1475006253|4081349 said:
This thread shows a whole host of bezels, from minimal bezels to bezels that make a statement:
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-bezel-rings.121897/

A well-made bezel should not significantly obstruct light, since the light that's being reflected back to you primarily goes in through the top of the diamond. There are exceptions when you're working with very small diamonds. I once had a pair of .24 each diamond earrings set in bezels. Unfortunately the bezel rose up to maybe half the height of the tables, and did obscure enough light that it affected the diamonds' performance. But - this issue was caused by the combination of the height of the bezel and the very small stones. With larger stones, even a generous bezel would not create enough "shadow" to significantly affect diamond performance. And - some jewelers make bezels that have virtually no rise (the James Meyer rings in the "bezels" thread, for example).

By the way, I've been wearing a JM bezel-set, platform-style ring almost every day for four or five years now. The it's a pretty high platform - the center bezel sits about 4mm above the shank (center to center), and it does get banged up a bit. You really don't see any damage, though. The center stone is actually set in a double bezel: smooth outer bezel and milgrained inner bezel. The milgrain is on the side of the bezel, not the top - and it's still in excellent shape and really doesn't show any wear. (The ring is mostly 18k gold, but I believe the inner bezels are platinum.)

Thanks for taking the time to type this all out. Makes sense about the smaller stones. I am glad to hear it shouldn't be an issue otherwise.

Glad to hear that your ring's wear isn't noticeable. I am sure no one looks as closely at a ring as the individual owner does.

I'd love to see pics of your bezel if you have any handy. Smooth outer + milgrained inner bezel is something I am considering, too.
 

iwantsparkle

Shiny_Rock
Joined
May 25, 2016
Messages
308
GeorgieQ|1475009086|4081362 said:
Thank you soooo much for asking this question iwantsparkle! :appl: I am in exactly the same boat at the moment with my avc, trying to decide what size bezel. For me a bezel is really the only way to go simply because I'm paranoid about a prong coming loose and my stone falling out (silly I know but I just can't get past it). I feel like I've read every bezel post on here but nothing really answers your (our) specific question. Personally I do think an old cut looks great in a bezel (look at Single Stone) but I also think the amount of metal around the bezel has the potential to really make or break the look. I'm having a consult with my jeweller tomorrow, she loves bezels and has a great eye so I'll let you know what she recommends for my avc. :)


Yay! Good luck and let me know what you decide. I want to see!

I also feel like I've read most of the bezel threads here, but I didn't see any in-depth convo about bezel thickness. But maybe those conversations were in threads about individual bezel rings.

I love the look of some prong-set rings. The bezel appeals to me because they seem so smooth.

Let me know how your consult goes! :)
 

VRBeauty

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 2, 2006
Messages
11,210
iwantsparkle and GeorgieQ: I'm sorry to have taken so long to respond to your requests for pictures of my JM ring.

My ring was originally owned by PS member Upgradable/Uppy, and designed by JM with her input. Trust me, the pictures she posted are far better than any I'd be able to get!

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/james-meyer-three-stone-more-pictures.126429/

https://www.pricescope.com/forum/show-me-the-ring/james-meyer-three-stone-oec-t120753-30.html

Good luck with your deliberations!
 

iwantsparkle

Shiny_Rock
Joined
May 25, 2016
Messages
308
VRBeauty|1475525646|4083289 said:
iwantsparkle and GeorgieQ: I'm sorry to have taken so long to respond to your requests for pictures of my JM ring.

My ring was originally owned by PS member Upgradable/Uppy, and designed by JM with her input. Trust me, the pictures she posted are far better than any I'd be able to get!

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/james-meyer-three-stone-more-pictures.126429/

https://www.pricescope.com/forum/show-me-the-ring/james-meyer-three-stone-oec-t120753-30.html

Good luck with your deliberations!

It's a beauty! I've never seen a three stone like it - so pretty!

I sent along my ideas for a ring and I am excited to see what happens! :)
 
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