PSA: You can no longer upgrade your diamond at Brian Gavin Diamonds if it has been bezel-set (and the policy is retroactive)

[Nitedula]

The other day, I noticed an unwelcome addition to Brian Gavin's FAQ (https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/blogs/faq), under "Do you have a Lifetime Upgrade Policy on your diamonds?", and also under "Can I return a bezel setting?".

At the end of both these sections, it now says, "All diamonds that have been set into bezel settings are final sale and are not eligible for return, upgrade or buyback." (The Lifetime Upgrade part includes "Please note that" at the beginning, but otherwise the wording is the same.)

The Wayback Machine indicates that the policy change was made earlier this year, between 16th March 2023 (https://web.archive.org/web/20230316140643/https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/blogs/faq) and 27th March 2023 (https://web.archive.org/web/20230327064921/https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/blogs/faq).

I reached out to BGD and asked about the policy, receiving this reply:
"We implemented the final sale rule on all bezel settings as there is the risk of changing the polish grade on the diamond when it is unmounted from the bezels."

When I asked what this meant for the studs I bought several years ago, before the policy change – were those diamonds eligible for upgrade or not? – they wrote back:

"Good afternoon! The policy applies to all order, past or future.

If you'd like, you can send them in to have unmounted and checked but, normally with bezel settings, some type of damage occurs during the setting or unmounting of the diamonds. We can unmount them and check the diamonds but any damages would need to be covered by you."

I couldn't find anything about this change mentioned here on PriceScope, so I thought it would be a good idea to post for everybody to know: if you have bought, or are thinking of buying, a piece of Brian Gavin bezel jewellery, whether it be a ring, pendant (I was planning on a BGD Barbara at some point, myself), earrings, or whatever, be aware that they will no longer accept your diamond(s) for trade-in towards an upgrade.

 

[MissGotRocks]

Interesting - thanks for the information !

 

[tyty333]

Definitely good to know...doesn't seem fair that it also applies to diamonds/bezels that were bought before this new policy went into
effect.

 

[Rfisher]

Did they not require a damage check on all diamonds turned in for the trade in program before?

If they didn’t I’m kinda surprised.
If they did - the cost is on the customer to fix any issues to restore before trade in.

I wonder what made it so unsavory for the vendor to change to no trade ins for bezel - period.
Has anyone noted a change in their bezel fabrication quality over the past few years?

Thanks for the heads up, OP
Love the way back machine.

 

[cardinalsfan]

I don't have any bezel set stones so far, but this is good to know. Ditto @tyty333, the retroactive thing doesn't seem fair.

 

[mustangchi]

I have wondered how at risk stones are when they are removed from bezel settings, like how common is it to damage them when changing settings? I hope some of the professionals around here will maybe read this and weigh in.

Right now I only have one sapphire I think that is bezel set and one small OMC in a pendant, I don't see resetting either of these. This worry has always held me back from putting a bezel on a diamond.

 

[Slickk]

Hmm. And here I was thinking a bezel protected a diamond’s girdle. Interesting… I and left to wonder how the skill level of the jeweler removing the diamond plays into any potential damage.

ETA I believe the change in policy should be going forward and should not apply to previous purchases :/

 

[DejaWiz]

Serious question: how does metal, a relatively malleable substance, damage a diamond, the hardest substance known to humankind?
Aren't we told that the only thing that can scratch diamond is...another diamond?

 

[MissGotRocks]

Serious question: how does metal, a relatively malleable substance, damage a diamond, the hardest substance known to humankind?
Aren't we told that the only thing that can scratch diamond is...another diamond?

Would love to see the general process of removing a bezel setting from a diamond. I have an old bezel set diamond pendant. Years ago I inquired about having the diamond removed to reset another diamond in it. I was told by a couple of jewelers that they couldn’t do it; the bezel would be destroyed by removing the current diamond. I was not told that the diamond would be - or possibly would be damaged - during the process. I was surprised to read this policy by BGD but clearly it must have a basis in some measure.
Anyone have experience with this process?

 

[Jambalaya]

Wow! This is very interesting.

I thought diamonds were so hard that taking them out of a bezel would be fine. I know nothing about jewelry-setting, but wouldn't they just heat up the metal until it's squishy so the diamond comes out easily? And wouldn't the heat be OK because of the whole formed-in-the-earth's-crust thing?

The new policy makes me wonder if they've had a disaster with an expensive bezel ring and never want to risk it again.

 

[Jambalaya]

Serious question: how does metal, a relatively malleable substance, damage a diamond, the hardest substance known to humankind?
Aren't we told that the only thing that can scratch diamond is...another diamond?

My thoughts exactly!

If they have had a bezel disaster with an expensive diamond, per my thoughts above, I wonder if their insurer has said they won't cover them for that aspect of their work anymore? (Specifically taking stones out of bezels.)

 

[t_trove]

I will never bezel-set a diamond again after having two diamonds damaged either in the setting or unsetting process. I had always heard that a bezel would protect a diamond, but in my experience, it’s more like a bezel will cover up damage done by the setter. Never again.

 

[Tonks]

I’m really surprised by this. It was always my understanding that to unset a bezel set diamond you destroy the bezel, but I didn’t know the stone was at that much risk.

I have a fabulous pair of bezel set studs from Victor Canera. I love the bezels—they are so clean and modern.

My hope is that a vendor can weigh in and tell us more about the behind the scenes for both setting and unsetting bezels.

 

[tyty333]

I had an ACA in a bezel ring by DK and decided to upgrade to a larger stone. DK removed the stone and sent it off to WF where
they checked it for damage. Came back with no problems.

I put my new ACA in a solitaire and put a lab-grown gem in the setting. Just wanted to show that at least DK can redo bezels!

 

[Jambalaya]

I'm really confused about the process of taking a stone out of a bezel...why wouldn't they just heat up the metal around it so the stone can be prized out?

 

[stracci2000]

Here is a video about unsetting a stone from a bezel. I could not find a video using a faceted stone, but you get the idea.
Some jewelers probably cut the bezel away from the stone, as well. But any sharp/rotating tool plus pressure coming near a stone could be damaging.

The edge of the stone can chip easily, even a diamond, which would be tragic.

No, you do not melt the metal from around the stone.

 

[elle_chris]

My old e-ring was a semi-bezel by Sholdt. There were no issues when Whiteflash took the stone out and I upgraded.

Also, how come they never mention the possibility of damage when you purchase one of their bezel settings? Be it ring or pendant?
Personally I would have loved to know that damage may occur if I chose to remove my diamond from their bezel pendant.
I mean, that's not exactly common knowledge and would definitely have made a difference in the setting I chose.

Not cool.

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

Wish that this information about bezel settings — if true — were more widely discussed. Trade people might not want to weigh in on this thread since it mentions a vendor by name. Perhaps if someone made an independent post?

Serious question: how does metal, a relatively malleable substance, damage a diamond, the hardest substance known to humankind?
Aren't we told that the only thing that can scratch diamond is...another diamond?

Including the three dots. They are there every time that saying comes up.

 

[DejaWiz]

Including the three dots. They are there every time that saying comes up.

I use an ellipsis quite a bit...

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

I use an ellipsis quite a bit...

…with another ellipsis…

 

[Karl_K]

No comment on any companies policies.
A halo where the metal is pushed over the stone and the stone is not held in prongs the metal is push down with steel tools that can chip facet junctions even if its just visible at 10x it can effect the grading.
Diamond is hard, but it is not greatly chip resistant.

I would think that most of the damage happens when being set if the setting is destroyed to get it out.
If you cut the stone out you would again have hardened metal tools potentially chipping facet junctions.

When it comes to facet junctions the difference between EX and VG is very small at a microscopic level.

 

[mustangchi]

I am now afraid to set anything in a bezel again

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

Will they sell or produce bezel settings going forward that they then won't guarantee? Will they drastically reduce the pricing on these final sale non returnable items?
I'm sorry for anyone who has ever bought a bezel that they will now not stand behind. Seems a bit unfair to change the purchase agreement in that way to penalize retroactive purchases that could've been bought with assurance in part because of the buyback/upgrade program.

I hope a note would be made under the individual setting listings where it can be plainly seen for 6mths or a year- bezel negates all return, buyback, upgrade program privileges.

 

[Lookinagain]

I'm sorry for anyone who has ever bought a bezel that they will now not stand behind. Seems a bit unfair to change the purchase agreement in that way to penalize retroactive purchases that could've been bought with assurance in part because of the buyback/upgrade program.

I agree.
Changing your policy on a go forward basis is one thing, but retroactively is quite another. I view that as changing the rules in the middle of the game and think it is truly not fair, or right. I'd be very leery of any potential future retroactive changes in policy.

That said, I'm a bezel lover and and am not going to stop setting stones the way I prefer.

 

[Bz_Sa]

Serious question: how does metal, a relatively malleable substance, damage a diamond, the hardest substance known to humankind?
Aren't we told that the only thing that can scratch diamond is...another diamond?

You may check the scientific explanation for scratching and the method that should be used to identify a stone by scratching.

not any kind of grinding two stones together is a proper way to do the scratch test, so it's the hardest natural material in terms of strength of atomic bonds and can be tested by proper scratching but I can put lots of scratches on a diamond by a single steel nail.

you wanna test it?? try putting scratches on a pure quartz (mohs' H 7) with a steel or iron thing (mohs' H at most 5) then you gonna succeed

does it mean steel has stronger atomic bonds and is harder? NO

so the scratch test conducted by Mohs has a proper way to do and examine

 

[oldminer]

The hammering used on a bezel "can" make a difference in the polish of facet junctions. It may not be a big amount, but for a diamond that initially had a very precise polish, it might degrade it. Getting it repolished is a cost that someone has to cover on a trade-in stone. Sellers need to make their policies clear and must use good judgement on how to make it work in a fair way. Not every diamond is damaged by bezel setting, but it may occur

 

[YadaYadaYada]

Idk, I think it would be more fair if there was damage and the diamond needed a repolish, that the option be given for the owner to pay the cost in order to upgrade.

To have an amendment that applies to both future and past purchases is just insane to me. I wonder if there was a clause in the original policy that said that it could change at any time.

This thread and another are the reason I would never factor an upgrade policy into a diamond purchase, I can’t imagine how it feels to have the rug pulled out from under you after spending so much money on a diamond.

 

[MissGotRocks]

Generally speaking, the upgrade policies have been very successful for many here on PS. Whiteflash has changed their policy but anything purchased prior to that change remained the same for an upgrade. If the BGD policy stated here is accurate, that is a major change that adversely affects others with no prior warning. That seems very unfair to me.

If you are buying a diamond, the ability to use a trade in policy is huge. Otherwise, you would have to sell your diamond (probably at a loss) and then purchase a new diamond. Difficult, time consuming and costly. Upgrade policies are and have been wonderful; the changes in the diamond market have clearly made some vendors reconsider. Nothing is forever I guess but I for one am glad I did business with a company that had a trade in policy.

 

[Texas Leaguer]

Did they not require a damage check on all diamonds turned in for the trade in program before?

If they didn’t I’m kinda surprised.
If they did - the cost is on the customer to fix any issues to restore before trade in.

I wonder what made it so unsavory for the vendor to change to no trade ins for bezel - period.
Has anyone noted a change in their bezel fabrication quality over the past few years?

Thanks for the heads up, OP
Love the way back machine.

This observation by @Rfisher is spot on.

Any sane trade up policy already requires that the diamond be returned in original condition. Therefore, while counseling during the setting selection process might very well involve some cautionary guidance regarding this potential issue, an exclusion for a particular setting style is unnecessary. And retroactively withdrawing a guarantee upon which a purchase decision was made is unethical at a minimum.

We require the diamond to be in original condition, as we recertify each trade-up diamond prior to re-offering it for sale. On the rare occasions when damage is observed, we work with the customer to repair the diamond at cost so that they can execute their trade. In most cases it is not a deal breaker expense for the customer and they are able to proceed, though it does take extra time to complete the process.

Bezel settings are a relatively small part of our business, so the sample size is very small, but I am not aware of any particular association with a higher rate of issues on trade-up vs prong settings, although it could be. To address some of the comments about the hardness of diamond and that only diamond can scratch diamond, these are true. However, we all know that a diamond can chip, and that usually happens at the girldle line. Cut quality gets demerits if a girdle is very thin for the reason that chipping risk is elevated. Tools used to get a bezel properly fashioned and secured can result in abrasions of the crown facet junctions. Think of these not as scratches, but as micro chips occurring at the facets' edges.

 

[DejaWiz]

^ thank you, Bryan (Texas Leaguer) - that makes perfect sense.

(Look, oncrutchesrightnow - no ellipsis!)