Options for 3-stone Emerald Cut RHR (2ctw)

[quaddio]

Hi PSers!

After perusing SMTB and a few in-store try-ons I've started working with a local jeweler to custom build a three stone emerald cut ring. This is the first time I've ever purchased jewelry for myself and the ring will be the only piece of jewelry I have ever worn! The style of ring is inspired by a piece I found at Helzberg in a nearby mall with a solid band and similar sized diamonds.

I chose to work with a local jeweler since I wanted to see the stones and get a bit more hand-holding during my first time. So far I feel very comfortable with the service and the diamonds I've seen. I used the Pricescope "cut class grader" and LW ratio calculator - most helpful! All diamonds are EGL certified. I looked at GIA certified diamonds too after so may PSers recommended GIA/AGS over EGL but IMHO they seemed similar for the specs. Here are some specs on sidestones and a center stone I'm yet to see.

Sidestones:

Size: 0.64 Cts
Color: E
Clarity: VS2
Measurements: 5.66 x 4.10 x 2.88
Depth: 70.2%
Table Width: 59%
Crown: 15%
Pavilion: 51%
Girdle: Medium, Polished
Polish: VG
Symmetry: VG
Cutlet: None

Size: 0.62 Cts
Color: G
Clarity: VS2
Measurements: 5.58 x 4.08 x 2.80
Depth: 69.6%
Table Width: 71%
Crown: 11%
Pavilion: 52%
Girdle: Slightly Thick, Polished
Polish: VG
Symmetry: VG
Cutlet: None

Center Stone Option:

Size: 0.86 Cts
Color: G
Clarity: VS2
Measurements: 6.16 x 4.44 x 3.04
Depth: 68.5%
Table Width: 66%
Crown: 13%
Pavilion: 50%
Girdle: Medium, Polished
Polish: VG
Symmetry: VG
Cutlet: None

I'd welcome any input from the PS community! Stay tuned for setting images and photos of the diamonds when I see them later this week.

 

[quaddio]

Cut information (from PS tools):

.64 - cut grade 2B LW ratio: 1.38:1
.62 - cut grade 3A LW ratio: 1.37:1
.86 - cut grade 2B LW ratio: 1.39:1

 

[tyty333]

Fancy cuts can not be evaluated by the numbers. Pictures and aset images will help. Sounds like you are working on an
exciting project. If/when you have pictures, please post.

 

[marcy]

It sounds like you will have a great ring.

 

[Cabochon1]

I am a bit confused about the measurements for the sidestones. Are you sure these are correct?

Do the stones really look very similar to each other?

Measurements: 5.66 x 4.10 x 2.88
Depth: 70.2%
Table Width: 59%
Crown: 15%
Pavilion: 51%


Measurements: 5.58 x 4.08 x 2.80
Depth: 69.6%
Table Width: 71%
Crown: 11%
Pavilion: 52%

 

[quaddio]

Hi Cabochon, thanks for the feedback and question.

IMHO the diamonds were a very good matching pair. I looked carefully and examined them at various angles and they seemed to be a pair. I chose the diamonds based on my own observation, not the numbers. Don't know whether there's a 'standard' for how far apart sidestone numbers can be before they look odd. I did not use a loupe or take up the offer of viewing under the microscope. When I go back to view the stones I'll try to get some photos.

I saw the sidestones side by side and with a center stone (not the one below). I viewed the diamonds in the window, in my shadow and under spotlighting. The diamonds were first put on a tray (white background), loose on my fingers and in the spring-loaded triple prong-claws. The jeweler (also gemologist) was helpful and patient.

I'm working on the CAD design now and have found it hard to explain exactly what I'm looking for. I'm really happy with the band design and now just tweaking the prongs. I've been cautioned that my preferred band style is much thicker than normal. I'm going for a width to match the diamonds - around 4mm. Any thoughts?

 

[centralsquare]

Do you have any CADs to post so we can get an idea?

 

[slg47]

Hi Cabochon, thanks for the feedback and question.

IMHO the diamonds were a very good matching pair. I looked carefully and examined them at various angles and they seemed to be a pair. I chose the diamonds based on my own observation, not the numbers. Don't know whether there's a 'standard' for how far apart sidestone numbers can be before they look odd. I did not use a loupe or take up the offer of viewing under the microscope. When I go back to view the stones I'll try to get some photos.

I saw the sidestones side by side and with a center stone (not the one below). I viewed the diamonds in the window, in my shadow and under spotlighting. The diamonds were first put on a tray (white background), loose on my fingers and in the spring-loaded triple prong-claws. The jeweler (also gemologist) was helpful and patient.

I'm working on the CAD design now and have found it hard to explain exactly what I'm looking for. I'm really happy with the band design and now just tweaking the prongs. I've been cautioned that my preferred band style is much thicker than normal. I'm going for a width to match the diamonds - around 4mm. Any thoughts?

I agree that the measurements look off for side stones but I don't know that much about fancy cuts. The important thing is that you like the look though. 4 mm is thicker than normal but not super thick. Do you plan to wear a wedding band with it? If so you may want to try on bands of similar width to make sure that you like the width on your fingers.

 

[quaddio]

Will post CAD as soon as available. In the meantime, this is the ring that made me choose the style




This (Tiff@ny) setting is not what I'm looking for


More like this (AJaffe)


Thoughts? Comments?

 

[centralsquare]

Pretty! Can't wait to see the final thing!

 

[marcy]

It will be gorgeous.

 

[Blackpaw]

Beautiful setting

from numbers alone, the second sidestone throws up a red light because the table % is higher than the depth - but it still may be a lovely stone, thats the problem with ECs!

If you can, i would make sure you look at the sidestones next to the centre stone they're bringing in for you, that will help you decide if the proportions are correct. And post a pic if you can, we'd love to see

good luck, cant wait to see this baby finished

 

[quaddio]

After inspecting the new center diamond I'm getting excited about the ring. I viewed the diamonds in a variety of lighting conditions and particularly liked the look on my finger (who wouldn't!). I forgot my camera and did the best I could with my phone (no disrespect Droid X2 has an awesome camera). I believe the ECs look much better in natural daylight as in the last two photos. Any thoughts/comments appreciated especially from the trade (note beautiful tradesman's hands in photos).

White Gold or Platinum???
The ring design is being finalized and I have to choose which metal. Are there any tips for deciding between 18kw and platinum? My BF (spectator to RHR purchase) loves platinum over white gold. I looked at bands in the respective metals and couldn't tell the difference, but then the jeweler kindly brought out a couple of older rings (recently traded in) to show the effect after some wear. The 18kw had bright shiny mirror finish on top exactly like some rhodium plated safety pins I just bought but on the inside the shine had faded from wear. The platinum had a very similar finish on top and showed signs of wear on the inside. The worn part of platinum had a 'cutlery' look to it that I kind of liked whereas the white gold had a warmer shiny tone - also not displeasing. I would find it very difficult to tell the difference between the two metals in a new ring. Is this a case of 'which metal best reflects you as a person?'

 

[quaddio]

This photo is the prettiest so I thought I'd enlarge. The color is easiest to see here without as much reflection.

 

[marcy]

Wow, your diamonds are gorgeous. I can't wait to see it finished. I'd go with platinum.

 

[quaddio]

Hi Cabochon, thanks for the feedback and question.

IMHO the diamonds were a very good matching pair. I looked carefully and examined them at various angles and they seemed to be a pair. I chose the diamonds based on my own observation, not the numbers. Don't know whether there's a 'standard' for how far apart sidestone numbers can be before they look odd. I did not use a loupe or take up the offer of viewing under the microscope. When I go back to view the stones I'll try to get some photos.

I saw the sidestones side by side and with a center stone (not the one below). I viewed the diamonds in the window, in my shadow and under spotlighting. The diamonds were first put on a tray (white background), loose on my fingers and in the spring-loaded triple prong-claws. The jeweler (also gemologist) was helpful and patient.

I'm working on the CAD design now and have found it hard to explain exactly what I'm looking for. I'm really happy with the band design and now just tweaking the prongs. I've been cautioned that my preferred band style is much thicker than normal. I'm going for a width to match the diamonds - around 4mm. Any thoughts?

I agree that the measurements look off for side stones but I don't know that much about fancy cuts. The important thing is that you like the look though. 4 mm is thicker than normal but not super thick. Do you plan to wear a wedding band with it? If so you may want to try on bands of similar width to make sure that you like the width on your fingers.

Thanks for the feedback - do the photos seem like a good match IYO? I feel confident about color, size and sparkle but I had trouble actually appreciating the various angles. I'm far less experienced than most PSers. I asked the gemologist/jeweler to choose the stones for me and trusted the professionals to a large extent. I'm really happy with the sidestone/center proportions which I was specific about. The LW ratio was chosen for me and I love it.

Marriage isn't in my foreseeable future so wedding band isn't an issue. This will be on my right hand and I intend to wear it alone with no other jewelry. If BF and I decided to make it official any time soon I'd probably skip the e-ring and just get a band, or maybe nothing. It's a lot of pressure choosing the perfect ring - second guessing myself, trying on every possible style. Who knows, maybe I'll start wearing more jewelry if I enjoy this pretty fellow. There's still a chance it will end up in a box gathering dust if I find it hard to wear - would be a shame though.

 

[pregcurious]

I love your project! It's really hard to tell from the angle of the pictures if the 3 stones are a good match. In the 2nd and 3rd pictures, the right side stone looks a little smaller than the left side stone, but it could be the angle. If you like the look, I think you should go for it.

 

[quaddio]

Wow, your diamonds are gorgeous. I can't wait to see it finished. I'd go with platinum.

Thanks for your comment Marcy - may I ask why you prefer platinum?

 

[quaddio]

There are so many opinions out there about platinum vs white gold. Reading the forums and examining the metals in person helped shed some light but I'm really unsure. BF loves platinum and I'm ambivalent. A couple of questions for the wise folks here:

- if you're indecisive but leaning towards white gold, is it worth considering a rhodium plated yellow gold ring (with white prongs)?

- rhodium plating a platinum ring seems like a good option but can it be done any time or does it need to be made in rhodium plated platinum?

 

[centralsquare]

It's going to be beautiful ring!

 

[slg47]

There are so many opinions out there about platinum vs white gold. Reading the forums and examining the metals in person helped shed some light but I'm really unsure. BF loves platinum and I'm ambivalent. A couple of questions for the wise folks here:

- if you're indecisive but leaning towards white gold, is it worth considering a rhodium plated yellow gold ring (with white prongs)?

- rhodium plating a platinum ring seems like a good option but can it be done any time or does it need to be made in rhodium plated platinum?

I would not go with a rhodium plated yellow gold ring...depending on the wear it would look weird IMO.

Platinum does not need to be rhodium plated because it is already white. The reason white gold rings are rhodium plated is that they are slightly off-white since they are a substantial percent gold (which is yellow). There are some alloys that are white and do not need plating, you could ask your jeweler if you are uncertain. Additionally some people prefer the look of unplated white gold and that is another way to get around the plating issue.

The main drawbacks to platinum are that it develops a 'patina' of little tiny scratches, the cost, and the weight. The cost is practically equal right now. The weight is a matter of personal preference...some people really like it and some people prefer a lighter ring. With the design of the ring that you are considering, not too much of the shank will be visible, so the patina would not be as obvious (it would mainly be on the underside of the ring). This can be polished out without losing any of the metal if it bothers you.

 

[quaddio]

Thanks for the input SLG47 and what a beautiful avatar. My main reason for considering the yellow gold + rhodium is that I may change my mind later in life and want yellow gold. I could overcome this by getting a new setting / shank later down the track. I do love the feel of gold and bright yellow shine but the look doesn't really suit me to wear. I really appreciate your comments about the patina and weight of platinum. If you have a platinum ring does the patina bother you?

I read some input from G. Holloway and a few other (minority?) professionals that rhodium plating is fine but that it will still get the patina. The reason for my second query was to know whether rhodium plating could be an option if I didn't like the patina. Given this is my first piece of jewelry I can't anticipate at the moment. Starting to wonder whether I should have started with a more modest piece.

The weight of the platinum required for the same volume of piece means it's still more expensive. It would add approx 10-15% to the cost of the ring. As you can see from the photos (my dodgy Helzberg shots) the style I liked is pretty heavy. I should have CAD design and a total weight estimate based on the design in the next couple of days.

Thanks again!

 

[Archerp]

I read some input from G. Holloway and a few other (minority?) professionals that rhodium plating is fine but that it will still get the patina. The reason for my second query was to know whether rhodium plating could be an option if I didn't like the patina. Given this is my first piece of jewelry I can't anticipate at the moment. Starting to wonder whether I should have started with a more modest piece.

If you don't like the patina that develops on platinum, you can get your ring polished so it looks new again. It shouldn't be a problem for the setting you have chosen.

I don't know for sure whether rhodium plating helps protect platinum from getting the patina, but I think it helps a bit. I have a Van Craeynest engagement ring and wedding band, both made of platinum with a rhodium finish, and I only see a bit of patina on a couple of places on the sides of engagement ring shank. (Both rings have been worn for about a year.) I have a platinum spacer (with no rhodium plating) between these two rings and the sides of the spacer are quite scratched up, but the top looks good (only worn for a few months).

 

[quaddio]

Thanks for reading Archerp and how kind of you give me advice in your first post!

From your description the rhodium plated platinum rings sound superior. I understand it's a matter of personal taste as well but great to have input from your personal experience. The Van Craetnest rings are incredible! Of course I'd love to see photos of your jewelry. For everyone else http://www.vancraeynest.com/index.html

 

[Archerp]

quaddio - Thanks, I love their craftsmanship! I don't have pics, unfortunately, but maybe one day I can make it happen.

I don't know how many jewelers rhodium plate platinum. It may delay patina, but I'm not sure. Different people have different experiences with their platinum rings, even unplated. In your case, with your setting, plain platinum seems to be just fine if you don't opt for gold, as you can easily get it polished.

One other thing to consider is that rhodium plating produces a different tint to the metal than plain platinum. The VC rings are made of 900 plat alloyed with iridium, which to me is lighter than the 950/50 ruthenium platinum alloy used by many jewelers, including Tiffany, and then are plated with rhodium. VC also made my spacer, which is the same platinum alloy with no rhodium. I can see a very slight difference between my spacer and my other rings. The plain platinum is a wee bit warmer than the rhodium-plated, I'd say. They still look good together, though. A Tiffany platinum wedding ring next to my VC engagement ring is a whole different color, so much so that I didn't buy the Tiffany ring I had my eye on! If you are wearing the ring alone, then it may not matter what other bands look like next to it, but you still may have a preference for the appearance of the metal for your 3 stone setting.

 

[quaddio]

Here are the early CAD images of my ring design. Even though they designed it just like I asked I think I've changed my mind about the sweep-style prongs. Seems like the safest bet is to be as close as possible to the gold ring from the mall that was the inspiration for my 3 stone design (see above photos). Lucky I didn't buy the mall item and instead found Pricescope!

Note I went with a slightly larger stone size than pictured here. The center stone in the photos is not the one used in this design but will be incorporated into the next version.

Thanks in advance for your comments/feedback/questions!!!!!

 

[centralsquare]

That is going to be an amazing ring!

 

[Gypsy]

I'd slim that shank down by at least a 1.5 mm all around. I know it's a CAD and there is bulk. I'd still slim it down.

 

[quaddio]

Hi Gypsy thank you for taking an interest! I'm so inexperienced with jewelry and asked for the ring to be made in the style of the first setting (yellow gold band). Do you think the setting CAD is similar? What are the advantages to a slimmer band?

 

[quaddio]

That is going to be an amazing ring!

It seems to be coming together but I still worry about not being able to see the final product until the end.