Opinions wanted on my right hand ring - exchange, update or other?

[metro]

When I upgraded my e-ring a few years ago, I passed around my original .50 carat stone through a few projects, finally re-homing her in a vintage setting, intended as a right hand ring.

When searching for a setting I knew I wanted vintage/vintage style, that didn't so much look like an engagement ring and also didn't complete too much with my wedding set, which is a halo e-ring.

The setting I purchased is a vintage platinum setting with 18 diamonds and 6 sapphires. I had my diamond set with a local vintage jewelry store and upon picking up my ring, immediately felt disappointed. I felt like the ring just looks “off” for lack of a better term. At first, I thought was the modern cut of the diamond that took away from the setting, but the more I look at it, the more I think it’s the design of the setting itself. My eye focuses on the square shape of the space around the stone, with the vertical shaped sapphires, which I think emphases the “off-ness”. I can’t put my finger on exactly what bothers me to verbalize it. All I can say is that the ring doesn’t flow for me. It just doesn’t sing to me like I thought it would. I’ve worn the ring maybe a total of 5x in the last 5 years.

So now that you have my back story, here’s where your opinion comes in on options…

I reached out to JbG last year considering consigning the setting. Doing so would free up some cash to look for another setting, which I’ve been on the lookout for the last few years. I love vintage style settings. The only one I have found in the last years of looking is one from MDZ. It surprisingly resembles what I have now and customized to fit my stone would be $650. The MDZ setting, though similar, just seems easier on the eye to me. At least, that’s my current thought. So the option here is selling my current setting and getting the MDZ setting.

I also started thinking that maybe it would be worth the venture to have the current setting rehabbed in some way. Maybe replace the sapphires with diamonds and have the center stone bezeled (instead of prongs) with some milgrain work added. Maybe that would be enough to soften the look. But taking the road of a rehab might be more expensive than I think. I don’t have a slightest idea of what that might cost. I don’t want to spend more than $800 on this project. Do you think this route even possible?

It’s not an option for me to design a new setting from scratch. For one, I don’t believe it’s within my budget, and secondly, I tried that once with a prom dress and it was a disaster, LOL. I don’t have an eye for design.

What is your opinion? What would you do?

My everyday wedding set


Current RHR



MDZ Setting

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Okay, that last setting is Diamond Zone. I couldn't think what MDZ was until I saw the pic! I always forget what their new website is....something like ivy and roses. I'd need to look it up.

I would not try to alter the current setting because it could end up a mess. I don't think the sapphires are the problem. The way they set your diamond is the problem. It doesn't fit the hole in the ring. I do think it would be better bezel set, but I'd be a little worried about it being done right.

I would send for a DZ setting to look at before committing to resetting. I know of one person who found their setting too delicate or thin.

 

[AprilBaby]

Agreed. Your setting is lovely but the diamond is too small or the hole to big.

 

[mrs-b]

Hi metro

I think your ring would be an easy rehab. I think the problem is the high shine square in which your stone sets. I like a low set stone, so for me, the tiny air-line isn't the problem. I agree that it's very square in the middle, so to soften it, I'd send it off to a very good engraver, to engrave some sort of coordinated pattern on that unpatterned center.

Were it me, I would also get rid of the sapphires and switch to diamonds. I don't think doing both those things would be difficult, and I think it would come in well below $800, depending on who you had do it.

I'd go with David Klass, who has a lovely, fine-work engraver. Do that first - and see if it fixes the problem. Then soften the hard dark lines made by the sapphires, by switching them out for diamonds. After that, if you still feel like you want a larger, higher set diamond, which will eliminate the airline, then you might want to bezel or replace the diamond. But I suspect in real life the airline is minimal, and the engraving is what will do the trick. Replacing the sapphires would be the cherry on top!

Just to add, it might be worth asking if they could cut out that square altogether and put in a solid one, then set the stone in, flush set. I would definitely still engrave around it to pull the ring together, but flush set might be an option if you really hate the airline. But as I said - I think you'll find engraving and switching out the sapphires will do the trick.

Good luck!

 

[metro]

Okay, that last setting is Diamond Zone. I couldn't think what MDZ was until I saw the pic! I always forget what their new website is....something like ivy and roses. I'd need to look it up.

I would not try to alter the current setting because it could end up a mess. I don't think the sapphires are the problem. The way they set your diamond is the problem. It doesn't fit the hole in the ring. I do think it would be better bezel set, but I'd be a little worried about it being done right.

I would send for a DZ setting to look at before committing to resetting. I know of one person who found their setting too delicate or thin.

Thank you for your input Diamondseeker2006. I was curious about the setting being to light/thin. I reached out to someone who had purchased the ring on Etsy, to ask for her input/review. My Diamond Zone seems to have very good prices, which makes me cautious. But I have read good reviews on the vendor, so I feel that's worth something. At least the setting can be returned if it's not what I expect.

Thanks again!

 

[metro]

Agreed. Your setting is lovely but the diamond is too small or the hole to big.

Thanks, AprilBaby for your post. At least you guys see what I see.

 

[metro]

Hi metro

I think your ring would be an easy rehab. I think the problem is the high shine square in which your stone sets. I like a low set stone, so for me, the tiny air-line isn't the problem. I agree that it's very square in the middle, so to soften it, I'd send it off to a very good engraver, to engrave some sort of coordinated pattern on that unpatterned center.

Were it me, I would also get rid of the sapphires and switch to diamonds. I don't think doing both those things would be difficult, and I think it would come in well below $800, depending on who you had do it.

I'd go with David Klass, who has a lovely, fine-work engraver. Do that first - and see if it fixes the problem. Then soften the hard dark lines made by the sapphires, by switching them out for diamonds. After that, if you still feel like you want a larger, higher set diamond, which will eliminate the airline, then you might want to bezel or replace the diamond. But I suspect in real life the airline is minimal, and the engraving is what will do the trick. Replacing the sapphires would be the cherry on top!

Just to add, it might be worth asking if they could cut out that square altogether and put in a solid one, then set the stone in, flush set. I would definitely still engrave around it to pull the ring together, but flush set might be an option if you really hate the airline. But as I said - I think you'll find engraving and switching out the sapphires will do the trick.

Good luck!

Thank you Mrs-B for your detailed post! I never thought of it before, but you're right - the high shine square is what my eye is drawn too - like an empty space, which is why I dislike it. Along with those vertical sapphires. And yes, the airline is super teeny-tiny. It doesn't bother me, though I was thinking a bezel setting would look more cohesive with the ring. And yes, those sapphires need to replaced with diamonds, for sure! Am glad someone else see's it too.

I'm going to take your suggestion and reach out to David Klass - just to get a ballpark figure. Maybe he can recommend some element of design that would make this setting look more pleasing without blowing my budget. Otherwise, I'll send it off to JbG to consign the setting.

Thanks so much for the reply!

 

[ringo865]

Grace also has benches who could rehab it if you've already been talking to her. It's a beautiful setting/ring.

 

[canuk-gal]

HI:

My first reaction was also the square center plate--makes the ring appear more masculine. Mens rings have center plateish focal point, since they don't "tend" to be ornate otherwise. Am I making sense..KWIM? Lovely setting tho...

cheers--Sharon

 

[cmd2014]

I don't think it's just the high shine square (although that's what my eye is immediately drawn to as well). I also think it's the other square shapes repeated throughout the setting and the geometric shapes of the sapphires. It makes the whole thing look a bit masculine if what you are drawn to is the more feminine curves of the second setting. Because of that, I'd sell the setting and buy the other one, as I worry that you'd spend money trying to rehab it only to have it not have any better of a feel to you.

I personally like the new setting that you found much better. My only concern is putting a MRB in a vintage setting - they often don't fit well together to my eye. But I think it would be a better fit than the stone/setting combo you have now.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I like mrs_B's suggestion to contact David Klass. He could bezel set the diamond and then engrave what's left of the square around it and solve both problems. The bezel looks like it would fit right in the hole and then the diamond would look like it fits correctly. I see no problem with the sapphires and wouldn't spend the money to change those, personally.

 

[mrs-b]

Thank you Mrs-B for your detailed post! I never thought of it before, but you're right - the high shine square is what my eye is drawn too - like an empty space, which is why I dislike it. Along with those vertical sapphires. And yes, the airline is super teeny-tiny. It doesn't bother me, though I was thinking a bezel setting would look more cohesive with the ring. And yes, those sapphires need to replaced with diamonds, for sure! Am glad someone else see's it too.

I'm going to take your suggestion and reach out to David Klass - just to get a ballpark figure. Maybe he can recommend some element of design that would make this setting look more pleasing without blowing my budget. Otherwise, I'll send it off to JbG to consign the setting.

Thanks so much for the reply!

You're welcome! Have you ever worked with DKJ before? I've done many projects with them over the last few years. I think they'd be perfect for this sort of job; their engraver is one of their strongest suits.

ETA Their address is [email protected] However, address your email to Amy; she does the designs at DKJ and she's awesome.

Costs nothing and is worth a try. Good luck!

 

[EC8]

Just saw an instagram post by underthecrownjewelry that showed a handful of diamond/sapphire deco rings; might give you some ideas for your ring.

 

[metro]

You folks are awesome! Thank you all for your input and suggestions.

I totally agree with you, canuk-gal & cmd2014. The squarish shape with the geometric sapphires does give off a masculine vibe. I love it that you guys can verbalize what my eye is seeing.

Mrs-B & Diamondseeker2016, I sent an email to David Klass last night and responded very quickly. Here are his remarks:
You have a pretty vintage ring with quite a large metal space in the middle. It might be enough to maybe add four diamonds to the corners of that metal with some fine milgrain and engraving. Something like that would cost $350. If you want to replace the sapphires with round and baguette diamonds it would cost $950 as the stones need to be custom cut. I might not bezel the center as you then would have the metal look around it. If you just want to engrave the metal with not adding stones that would cost $150. My address is below if you want to send in the ring for me to look at. I can rehab the ring a few ways, it also depends how much you want to put into it. Thanks David.

TALK ABOUT FAST! I do like his suggestions and now I am torn. For David to put four small diamonds on the corners, it would run $350. This is about the price for the new setting from MDZ. Replacing the sapphires would be over my budget, so I can't take that route. Adding engraving only is very affordable, but I'm not sure I'd be 100% with the ring after, if you KWIM. I think you guys have hit the nail on the head when you said it was bit masculine and geometric. As much as I'd LOVE to rehab this ring, I am leaning towards consigning the setting with Grace and moving to a new setting with less doubts.

Maybe ring above from MDZ with nice migrain work on the bezel??? Hmmm...I can envision that looking pretty nice.

Thank you, EC8, for the Instragram account. I can always use some inspiration!

I'll keep you all posted on which route I choose to take. Thanks all!

 

[mrs-b]

Metro - there's one other option. Well, there's probably a zillion, but there's one I can thnk of that might fit the bill.

Do the engraving, and switch out the sapphires - but with bead set round brilliants, not custom cut baguettes. Doing it with all round melee diamonds would be WAY cheaper. It would give you the look you're after, for far less money.

Just a thought. And by the way - I didn't say this before and I meant to - while I agree that breaking up the plain metal square would be a good thing, I think your ring in general is lovely. What size is the center diamond?

 

[metro]

Metro - there's one other option. Well, there's probably a zillion, but there's one I can thnk of that might fit the bill.

Do the engraving, and switch out the sapphires - but with bead set round brilliants, not custom cut baguettes. Doing it with all round melee diamonds would be WAY cheaper. It would give you the look you're after, for far less money.

Just a thought. And by the way - I didn't say this before and I meant to - while I agree that breaking up the plain metal square would be a good thing, I think your ring in general is lovely. What size is the center diamond?

Oh wow, MRS-B, that is an excellent idea about bead set round diamonds! They'd have to be teeny-tiny diamonds, but I think that would look pretty unique. Excellent idea! Thank you!

The center stone is my diamond from my original ering. It's a half carat, E, SI1. I know the majority of vintage jewelry lovers (myself included), wouldn't normally dream of placing a modern stone in a vintage setting, but I LOVE vintage jewelry and well, I went for it. It does give the ring a different look - not in a bad way, but different. Thank you for the compliment. I know it's not everyone's cup of tea.

 

[metro]

For a visual, here's a pic of the MDZ setting IRL. A gal I contacted through Etsy was kind enough to send me a pic of her ring, along with a good review of the setting and seller. I think they go by Ivy & Rose on Etsy and My Diamond Zone on ebay. Her diamond is .75, whereas my stone is a .50, but it's a good idea of the ring in action.

 

[Sagefemme]

I like the MDZ setting very much. The shape of the cut outs is very graceful. I don't think it will be thin or flimsy because it's a substantial style in the first place. BUT your stone will need to fit exactly to look good. Do you know your stone will fit? It's a pretty good price I think.

 

[metro]

Before I send my setting off to Grace, I thought it worth a shot to do some mock-up pics of my ring, from David and Mrs-B's suggestions. What do you think? I couldn't figure out to draw milgrain/engraving, but hopefully you can use your imagination with my paint skills, LOL. Do any of these ring looks ok? I actually like a few of these pics more than the MDZ. These visuals help me alot. Please chime in with your opinion!

 

[metro]

one more...I have too much free time at work, LOL. I think this one is my fav so far. I making this very hard. Now I REALLY don't know which direction to take.

 

[cmd2014]

I think you should probably think about whether or not you like the more square/geometric shapes in your current setting, or the more curved, flowing shapes in the other setting. My worry is that you will pay to 'fix' the current setting, and it will still read as being quite geometric. If you mostly like it, but just want it a little softened, fix the setting that you have. If though you really do prefer the more feminine look of the other one, you should just get the other setting and sell this one to someone who will love it the way that it is.

 

[luvsdmb]

I think you should go with the MDZ setting. It's very pretty.

 

[Yimmers]

I like the bezel and add engraving idea. The metal plate is distracting and it would add a much more cohesive look. I do like the MDZ setting as well, but I prefer yours over it.

 

[tyty333]

Definitely need some engraving on that flat metal plate (way too distracting). If the sapphires can be replaced with round diamonds then I'd
do that too however, it may take custom cut diamonds to fit like the sapphires do and that may be cost prohibitive. I'm not so much liking the
mock up with the diamond baguettes for sapphires

 

[Matthews1127]

I am going against the grain, here.
Your ring is very Art Deco. Art Deco style integrates different shapes, and molds them, together, to make a beautiful design. I love the ring, as it is, with the sapphires...with engraving added to the center, square plate, and simple millgrain edging to give it some sass!! It's so 1920's/1930's. I'd wear it anywhere!
If you mess with the original design too much, it starts looking like a Super Bowl ring!!
I have a similar ring...it was my Great-Aunt's. It was the inspiration for my wedding set! I love it to death! Here's a photo....
I hope I didn't complicate your life! I just adore Art Deco jewelry!! I'd love to see it with engraving & millgrain detail!!
...CRM

 

[junebug17]

The MDZ setting is nice but I like yours better! I like the sapphires too - I would just do the engraving and call it a day. You did an excellent job on the mockups!

 

[Matthews1127]

one more...I have too much free time at work, LOL. I think this one is my fav so far. I making this very hard. Now I REALLY don't know which direction to take.

PERFECT!!!!

 

[Yimmers]

I am going against the grain, here.
Your ring is very Art Deco. Art Deco style integrates different shapes, and molds them, together, to make a beautiful design. I love the ring, as it is, with the sapphires...with engraving added to the center, square plate, and simple millgrain edging to give it some sass!! It's so 1920's/1930's. I'd wear it anywhere!
If you mess with the original design too much, it starts looking like a Super Bowl ring!!
I have a similar ring...it was my Great-Aunt's. It was the inspiration for my wedding set! I love it to death! Here's a photo....
I hope I didn't complicate your life! I just adore Art Deco jewelry!! I'd love to see it with engraving & millgrain detail!!
...CRM

So, could you maybe bezel it, add milgrain detailing to the bezel, and engrave the center plate? Keep the sapphires - I prefer them over the baguettes and their cut fits the style of the ring.