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Opinions on this GIA N/VS OEC

oldcutclubmember

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
1,172
Yes- there was another vendor that was going to send him a L OEC for his viewing but I was not sold on the pattern. The size, price was right….. I hate that everyone posts everything outside. It always looks so much whiter to me. Show me it inside! Lol. I def think she would settle for a soft white if it were to be large and beautiful cut. Bezeled in platinum I thought may help it look fine. I’ve read contradictory things. Any thoughts? A N would be out then if even remotely creamy- yellow. That I know about her. Are L’s ever white face up? Thank you again for your advice/opinion.

I think you need to find out exactly how color sensitive she really is. Does she want white? Or is she ok with not white? Words like vanilla, ivory, creamy are all relative and I think you need to find out what her preference is. Some people want icy white and some people are ok with a bit of color but only she will be able to tell how much color she’s comfortable with. When she says that she’s ok with not a white stone, she may actually mean a H/I and even a J (without any fluoro - I went back and saw that your beautiful emerald had med fluoro) may be too much color for her. I am assuming they live in a city given their social circle and there must be some retail outlet that may carry old cut stones. I think an in person visit to get an idea of the color range she is comfortable with is the safest way to go.
 
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Gone_

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Nov 14, 2020
Messages
205
One important thing to note... there's no such thing as a spread cut in the OEC world. Spread cut OEC usually = bad cut/pancake diamond.

OECs are much deeper than MRBs hence much smaller looking. You don't want to be below 60%. Your ideal depth would be 62%-65%, table 45%-51%

So 9mm 61% depth would be around 2.75 ct
 

lulu_ma

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
4,237
Well, I’m going to be a bit contrarian here. My ering is an F color emerald cut and my anniversary ring is an M color OEC and I reach for my OEC way more often because of the size.

N colored OECs can be gorgeous. I tried one from Jack Weir a few months ago. But I agree with what everyone else is saying about shades of white. An M/N color will be more creamy white then bright white. However, creamy white doesn’t personally bother me for antique stones.

Here’s an O/P next to an N.

86877169-59E4-4350-9FE7-2647F2E439D3.jpeg

But please don’t put a warmer OEC in a halo with F color melee. Even if the stone is an J/K color, I would recommend having a halo made with the same color melee as the center and preferably with single cut melee. I just reset my mom’s warmer emerald cut in a halo and the color matched melee made a huge difference.

Perhaps you can do some sleuthing and find out your daughter’s true color sensitivity. If she’s ok with creamy white then N might be ok.
 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
im going to be blunt. honestly, if she rolls in social circles with big honkers, people can be just as persnickety and judgmental about color just as size. they will know the premium they spent for a large diamond in a particular quality. they may know nothing about diamonds...but OBVIOUSLY off white is hard to miss

if he feels like he NEEDS to buy a big diamond because of her friends/or feels the need to impress, and is sorta ignoring what he knows her wishes are too...that's not great IMO either

i would never buy an N diamond for a woman who likes white white diamonds. why should she settle for an off-white color to begin with? for what, social pressure? and i would never buy a LARGE N color diamond hoping to just blend in with a crowd spending 50k + on e-rings...nope. won't win you cred - it will be very obviously tinted and people know that lower color = less money...it's a bad way to go about buying here IMO. has he considered lab? he can get the size and high color...she doesn't need to share with her friends that its lab and there's no way to visibly tell...

an N is absolutely a creamy color. "White face-up" frankly is a bit misleading i think. an L will also show color. i think there is a lot of lore on PS about how white antique cuts can face up, yes in a sense...they reflect a lot of colors from their environment, but that doesn't change anything about the actual tint of the diamond. a color sensitive person (i.e. like me) will see tint whether it's antique cut or not
Thank you for your perspective. My future SIL definitely was not looking at an N to achieve size. That was me. Lol. I thought he could go down in color and still have it face up white (based on some chatter of how old stones tend to be able to hide color better) but I guess that’s not really the case. I agree about the color being the first thing one notices (thus my post here). He absolutely will not buy a stone just based on size. He made it clear it has to be white looking and completely eye clean - completely other than w a loupe). So something will have to give. I def will help him to keep looking and perhaps something will come up to check all the boxes. I’m glad I asked bc a lower color, I do not think will be in the cards. Thank you again.
 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
One important thing to note... there's no such thing as a spread cut in the OEC world. Spread cut OEC usually = bad cut/pancake diamond.

OECs are much deeper than MRBs hence much smaller looking. You don't want to be below 60%. Your ideal depth would be 62%-65%, table 45%-51%

So 9mm 61% depth would be around 2.75 ct
Yes! That’s exactly what it was!
 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
Well, I’m going to be a bit contrarian here. My ering is an F color emerald cut and my anniversary ring is an M color OEC and I reach for my OEC way more often because of the size.

N colored OECs can be gorgeous. I tried one from Jack Weir a few months ago. But I agree with what everyone else is saying about shades of white. An M/N color will be more creamy white then bright white. However, creamy white doesn’t personally bother me for antique stones.

Here’s an O/P next to an N.

86877169-59E4-4350-9FE7-2647F2E439D3.jpeg

But please don’t put a warmer OEC in a halo with F color melee. Even if the stone is an J/K color, I would recommend having a halo made with the same color melee as the center and preferably with single cut melee. I just reset my mom’s warmer emerald cut in a halo and the color matched melee made a huge difference.

Perhaps you can do some sleuthing and find out your daughter’s true color sensitivity. If she’s ok with creamy white then N might be ok.

No melee for her. She wants plain. I think we’d need to see a lower color in person to decide. Sounds like a N will show color and that is not what she would want. Nor he. I just thought it looked white to me LOl and I loved the pattern. I sent it to him and his concern was the color once set. It’s a hard call bc she needs to wear it and it’s still a lot of money at the end of the day. Thank you so much for your perspective. I really appreciate it.
 

Cerulean

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
5,078
Thank you for your perspective. My future SIL definitely was not looking at an N to achieve size. That was me. Lol. I thought he could go down in color and still have it face up white (based on some chatter of how old stones tend to be able to hide color better) but I guess that’s not really the case. I agree about the color being the first thing one notices (thus my post here). He absolutely will not buy a stone just based on size. He made it clear it has to be white looking and completely eye clean - completely other than w a loupe). So something will have to give. I def will help him to keep looking and perhaps something will come up to check all the boxes. I’m glad I asked bc a lower color, I do not think will be in the cards. Thank you again.

I understand. It doesn’t hurt to ask to weigh the pros and cons. As you said, it’s a big purchase and asking for opinions is free!

If you share the actual budget and any other details folks may be able to help track a stone down.
 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
I understand. It doesn’t hurt to ask to weigh the pros and cons. As you said, it’s a big purchase and asking for opinions is free!

If you share the actual budget and any other details folks may be able to help track a stone down.

$25k
 

Cerulean

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
5,078
This is a little over budget, but it’s a beautiful stone IMO. Not sure if budget includes a setting as well..this color range is tough to find for well cut OECs and tougher as size increases

 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
I think you need to find out exactly how color sensitive she really is. Does she want white? Or is she ok with not white? Words like vanilla, ivory, creamy are all relative and I think you need to find out what her preference is. Some people want icy white and some people are ok with a bit of color but only she will be able to tell how much color she’s comfortable with. When she says that she’s ok with not a white stone, she may actually mean a H/I and even a J (without any fluoro - I went back and saw that your beautiful emerald had med fluoro) may be too much color for her. I am assuming they live in a city given their social circle and there must be some retail outlet that may carry old cut stones. I think an in person visit to get an idea of the color range she is comfortable with is the safest way to go.

Yes, mine is a J but it looks very white and my original EC was an F. It’s not as white but you would never say it has any color at all. She loves it and thinks it’s white looking too. So that I can say for sure. He won’t go looking w her bc he wants to handle it all (w my help) but wants it as a surprise. I guess I could take her but then she would suspect. All her friends have ovals, cushion, RB. So they are a completely diff animal. She loves EC’s too and I think if he got her a beautiful white looking one w size - she’d be very happy. Again- I know her heart would be w a OEC first. So I’ll have to do some digging and also feel her out when I see her! It’s a little tricky. She’s the type also that she would love whatever he gave her… and I’m not just saying that. But as her Mom- and I personally think any amount of money on a stone is a lot - period. So I’d like to see them both get what they’d like for that amount he’s willing to spend. Thank you again!!
 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
This is a little over budget, but it’s a beautiful stone IMO. Not sure if budget includes a setting as well..this color range is tough to find for well cut OECs and tougher as size increases

Thank you! I saw that. I think he would not want to spend more for a 2ct versus almost a 3. I get that it’s a I color but I’m sure a j could look white also- maybe a K. He also will look at EC’s bc that is def more my expertise and I know I can get her a decent one that won’t have color. She said she def is open to them! I just knew the old European as her favorite. I think we need to be patient and I need to feel her out more. I really appreciate any suggestions! It’s beautiful!
 

oldcutclubmember

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
1,172
Yes, mine is a J but it looks very white and my original EC was an F. It’s not as white but you would never say it has any color at all. She loves it and thinks it’s white looking too. So that I can say for sure. He won’t go looking w her bc he wants to handle it all (w my help) but wants it as a surprise. I guess I could take her but then she would suspect. All her friends have ovals, cushion, RB. So they are a completely diff animal. She loves EC’s too and I think if he got her a beautiful white looking one w size - she’d be very happy. Again- I know her heart would be w a OEC first. So I’ll have to do some digging and also feel her out when I see her! It’s a little tricky. She’s the type also that she would love whatever he gave her… and I’m not just saying that. But as her Mom- and I personally think any amount of money on a stone is a lot - period. So I’d like to see them both get what they’d like for that amount he’s willing to spend. Thank you again!!

Thank you for your perspective. My future SIL definitely was not looking at an N to achieve size. That was me. Lol. I thought he could go down in color and still have it face up white (based on some chatter of how old stones tend to be able to hide color better) but I guess that’s not really the case. I agree about the color being the first thing one notices (thus my post here). He absolutely will not buy a stone just based on size. He made it clear it has to be white looking and completely eye clean - completely other than w a loupe). So something will have to give. I def will help him to keep looking and perhaps something will come up to check all the boxes. I’m glad I asked bc a lower color, I do not think will be in the cards. Thank you again.

Hmmm…. If it has to be a COMPLETE surprise and she can’t even know that he is looking, then maybe HE should be the one to go and see in person some of these old stones to see what color range HE is comfortable with. If he made it clear that it has to be “white looking” then it’s really based on his color sensitivity. It doesn’t even have to be all OECs, it can be just be a store that specialize in antique/vintage jewelry so that he can just color compare. Like you said, old cut stones are a whole different animal and he can’t really go off of just the certs. What city do they live in? We can certainly give suggestions based on the city? SF - Lang Antiques; NYC - Victor Barbones; LA - Single Stone, etc?
 

lulu_ma

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
4,237
I saw an L close to 3 cts recently but I think it sold.

This is an M but it might be worth looking at in person-especially for the size…

 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
Hmmm…. If it has to be a COMPLETE surprise and she can’t even know that he is looking, then maybe HE should be the one to go and see in person some of these old stones to see what color range HE is comfortable with. If he made it clear that it has to be “white looking” then it’s really based on his color sensitivity. It doesn’t even have to be all OECs, it can be just be a store that specialize in antique/vintage jewelry so that he can just color compare. Like you said, old cut stones are a whole different animal and he can’t really go off of just the certs. What city do they live in? We can certainly give suggestions based on the city? SF - Lang Antiques; NYC - Victor Barbones; LA - Single Stone, etc?

He definitely wants to see them himself - that is why he was purchasing a couple
Of diff ones with the option to return them. Again, thus my post here before he did. Each stone though is so unique. One L can be whiter than another. I’ve seen this for myself when I was looking at OEC’s years back. So it’s a bit more labor intensive. I know Adam at OWD (that’s where I purchased my stone from). He’s def on the more expensive side But he clearly has the best inventory but again, his prices are def in the higher end.
 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
I saw an L close to 3 cts recently but I think it sold.

This is an M but it might be worth looking at in person-especially for the size…


I love that ring. Lol. I’d be easy I think. Haha. I have never bought off of eBay and I don’t think he would (only bc it would be the blind leading the blind)! Hahah. Also- I’m just not schooled enough to risk it for him. I think he would prefer a jeweler. He def asks a lot of questions to his credit and has been researching them. But I do like that stone! Thank you so much!!!
 

oldcutclubmember

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
1,172
He definitely wants to see them himself - that is why he was purchasing a couple
Of diff ones with the option to return them. Again, thus my post here before he did. Each stone though is so unique. One L can be whiter than another. I’ve seen this for myself when I was looking at OEC’s years back. So it’s a bit more labor intensive. I know Adam at OWD (that’s where I purchased my stone from). He’s def on the more expensive side But he clearly has the best inventory but again, his prices are def in the higher end.

Right, they definitely vary. That’s why I think it would be good for him to at least get a ball park range? For example, if he sees a bunch of Ms and he can see color in all of them, then he knows he has to go above a M. If he sees a bunch of Ls and he can see color in some of them but he is ok with some, then maybe he would be willing to buy a L with option to return. If he sees a bunch of Ks and he likes all of them, color-wise, then he knows he’ll most likely be safe with a K and just focus on patterning instead of color. I just think the process may be a little less overwhelming to him if he gets to see more than one old cut at a time. It will also cut down on time he has to spend on buying, paying, returning, waiting for the payment to transfer back to him, etc. I am assuming he doesn’t have the funds to buy 2-3 at a time and compare them side by side before returning them. Has he seen a single OEC in person??
 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
Right, they definitely vary. That’s why I think it’s good for him to at least get a ball park range? For example, if he sees a bunch of Ms and he can see color in all of them, then he knows he has to go above a M. If he sees a bunch of Ls and he can see color in some of them but he is ok with some, then maybe he would be willing to buy a L with option to return. If he sees a bunch of Ks and he likes all of them, color-wise, then he knows he’ll most likely be safe with a K and just focus on patterning instead of color. I just think the process may be a little less overwhelming to him if he gets to see more than one old cut at a time. It will also cut down on time he has to spend on buying, paying, returning, waiting for the payment to transfer back to him, etc. I am assuming he doesn’t have the funds to buy 2-3 at a time and compare them side by side before returning them. Has he seen a single OEC in person??

I agree! Yes- he does have the funds to do that - and literally was in the middle of buying 2 and I said to wait and let me do a little digging! Thankfully, Both were not charging him a fee upon returning. He has not seen any in person - just videos. I also think the other hiccup is the bezel and to know how it will look once set in it…. Sigh. Unfortunately, I like unique things but yet also classic. All my girls are the same. Lol. Therefore she loves the OEC’s. A little diff but still classic. Then add a simple bezel bc she is super classic minimalist. But loves fashion…. But timeless things. So there you have it. I’ll have to go w him to see a bunch to see what he thinks. Thankfully, he is picky and won’t be pushed and will stick to his criteria. He def has an opinion on the quality. So I think he will do ok. We just need to see them live for color like you mentioned!!! And bezel set! Hahah. Which I know we won’t be able to do. Maybe I can buy a setting w an approx size so we can throw it in there to be sure…..
 

oldcutclubmember

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
1,172
I agree! Yes- he does have the funds to do that - and literally was in the middle of buying 2 and I said to wait and let me do a little digging! Thankfully, Both were not charging him a fee upon returning. He has not seen any in person - just videos. I also think the other hiccup is the bezel and to know how it will look once set in it…. Sigh. Unfortunately, I like unique things but yet also classic. All my girls are the same. Lol. Therefore she loves the OEC’s. A little diff but still classic. Then add a simple bezel bc she is super classic minimalist. But loves fashion…. But timeless things. So there you have it. I’ll have to go w him to see a bunch to see what he thinks. Thankfully, he is picky and won’t be pushed and will stick to his criteria. He def has an opinion on the quality. So I think he will do ok. We just need to see them live for color like you mentioned!!! And bezel set! Hahah. Which I know we won’t be able to do. Maybe I can buy a setting w an approx size so we can throw it in there to be sure…..

That’s a good idea and very sweet of you to go with him! I think you guys will have fun and it’ll be a good bonding time with your future SIL lol
 

lulu_ma

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
4,237
I love that ring. Lol. I’d be easy I think. Haha. I have never bought off of eBay and I don’t think he would (only bc it would be the blind leading the blind)! Hahah. Also- I’m just not schooled enough to risk it for him. I think he would prefer a jeweler. He def asks a lot of questions to his credit and has been researching them. But I do like that stone! Thank you so much!!!

I completely agree with you about having to see the old cuts irl. I saw a beautiful cut L but it was so brown in person. I was really surprised that GIA didn’t assign it a brown modifier.

Just so you know the ring I posted is from retailer in Long Island with 5 storefronts. It doesn’t hurt to ask them for a short video and more pics.

Also, if he wants to know what the stones will look like in a bezel, he can conduct an easy experiment at home with a washer or something similar.

E4F1C059-61A8-4534-ACF5-39FE3BFFB6E1.jpeg
 

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Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
That’s a good idea and very sweet of you to go with him! I think you guys will have fun and it’ll be a good bonding time with your future SIL lol

Yes! We actually have some much fun together. I love him like my own. Thank you so much and any other finds you think would be good, I’d love to see!! Ps. We can shop for you when you are ready!
 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
I completely agree with you about having to see the old cuts irl. I saw a beautiful cut L but it was so brown in person. I was really surprised that GIA didn’t assign it a brown modifier.

Just so you know the ring I posted is from retailer in Long Island with 5 storefronts. It doesn’t hurt to ask them for a short video and more pics.

Also, if he wants to know what the stones will look like in a bezel, he can conduct an easy experiment at home with a washer or something similar.

E4F1C059-61A8-4534-ACF5-39FE3BFFB6E1.jpeg

Oh! Thank you so much! Also- how do I do the experiment at home? Thank you again.
 

lulu_ma

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
4,237
Oh! Thank you so much! Also- how do I do the experiment at home? Thank you again.

Oh it involves looking through your DH's tool box:geek2:. Here's a link to a vid of one of my experiments (DH is an engineer). You just need a washer or wrench attachment that has a similar diameter to the stone and a pair of tweezers is useful, too.

 

Rfisher

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
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Messages
5,564
Thank you for your perspective. My future SIL definitely was not looking at an N to achieve size. That was me. Lol. I thought he could go down in color and still have it face up white (based on some chatter of how old stones tend to be able to hide color better) but I guess that’s not really the case. I agree about the color being the first thing one notices (thus my post here). He absolutely will not buy a stone just based on size. He made it clear it has to be white looking and completely eye clean - completely other than w a loupe). So something will have to give. I def will help him to keep looking and perhaps something will come up to check all the boxes. I’m glad I asked bc a lower color, I do not think will be in the cards. Thank you again.

don’t know if this will help you/who you are helping choose find their parameters and color tolerance, or not
But as ‘white’ as my EGL J OEC can look at times,
There is also a few specific restaurants that whatever lighting it is they have - make it look like lower alphabet. Not just a couple grades- many grades.

Thing is, and I know it was said before - I think especially with older cuts - looking at one OEC won’t tell you what other OEC’s in that same GIA color grade will do.
 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
Oh it involves looking through your DH's tool box:geek2:. Here's a link to a vid of one of my experiments (DH is an engineer). You just need a washer or wrench attachment that has a similar diameter to the stone and a pair of tweezers is useful, too.


OH WOW!! Thank you for that!! I def will try it! Brilliant!
 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
don’t know if this will help you/who you are helping choose find their parameters and color tolerance, or not
But as ‘white’ as my EGL J OEC can look at times,
There is also a few specific restaurants that whatever lighting it is they have - make it look like lower alphabet. Not just a couple grades- many grades.

Thing is, and I know it was said before - I think especially with older cuts - looking at one OEC won’t tell you what other OEC’s in that same GIA color grade will do.

I absolutely agree!
 

Mreader

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 14, 2018
Messages
6,369
Thank you! I saw that. I think he would not want to spend more for a 2ct versus almost a 3. I get that it’s a I color but I’m sure a j could look white also- maybe a K. He also will look at EC’s bc that is def more my expertise and I know I can get her a decent one that won’t have color. She said she def is open to them! I just knew the old European as her favorite. I think we need to be patient and I need to feel her out more. I really appreciate any suggestions! It’s beautiful!

If you know that Old Euro is her fave, which you have said many times then I wouldn't go for an EC. Any chance that 2.46 would be in the running?
 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
If you know that Old Euro is her fave, which you have said many times then I wouldn't go for an EC. Any chance that 2.46 would be in the running?

Thank you so much. I hear you but She def would go for a bigger EC over a small OEC. But - honestly - it’s a lot of factors. He would not look to spend top budget for a 2ct OEC versus an EC that I know I can source w decent specs/size. I know she would agree. So it’s not so black and white. To answer your question- a 2.46 Ofcourse could be depending on pattern/cut/ color perspective and mm size brown cost factor.
 

josieKat

Shiny_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
190
Does it need to be an old stone? There is this AVR (2ct though):

(I ended up finding my I AVR below my tolerance level, but if she adores your J an I is likely fine, especially one with ideal light return.)
 

Emeraldcutlover

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
902
Does it need to be an old stone? There is this AVR (2ct though):

(I ended up finding my I AVR below my tolerance level, but if she adores your J an I is likely fine, especially one with ideal light return.)

Does it need to be an old stone? There is this AVR (2ct though):

(I ended up finding my I AVR below my tolerance level, but if she adores your J an I is likely fine, especially one with ideal light return.)

Does it need to be an old stone? There is this AVR (2ct though):

(I ended up finding my I AVR below my tolerance level, but if she adores your J an I is likely fine, especially one with ideal light return.)

Does it need to be an old stone? There is this AVR (2ct though):

(I ended up finding my I AVR below my tolerance level, but if she adores your J an I is likely fine, especially one with ideal light return.)
Yes. Def an OEC versus a Round Brilliant. She would defer to an EC bc she also likes those. I appreciate any and all feedback. Thank you again.
 

Mreader

Ideal_Rock
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Aug 14, 2018
Messages
6,369
Yes. Def an OEC versus a Round Brilliant. She would defer to an EC bc she also likes those. I appreciate any and all feedback. Thank you again.

I think what the previous poster meant was does your daughter want a stone from that era or would she be OK with a stone that is newly cut but cut as an OEC? That’s what distinctive gems does and it’s easier to get higher color as well as good performance this way.
 
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