OEC hunt begins, how to narrow choices? Need help with guidelines.

[EmeraldEmpress]

Gorgeous setting!!
Very very Art Deco : )

I recently picked up a hexagon shaped setting with an Old Mine cut, original ring from the 1920's.

I'm really liking the hexagon and octagon shapes : )

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

@EmeraldEmpress thank you! We shall see, two plastic models are on the way from DK. Both styles appeal to me, can't wait to see them on the hand!

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

I recently picked up a hexagon shaped setting with an Old Mine cut, original ring from the 1920's.

I'm really liking the hexagon and octagon shapes : )

Beautiful!

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

A little pkg came for me today, the ring molds! But ugh, just confirmed that I prefer the octagon shape AND a bezel. Amy and I tried to combine the two, but I wasn't sure. Now I'm rethinking. If anyone is out there, would love some PS opinions!


We tried suspending the bezel in an octagon frame, but the east/west negative space was blocked by the shank structure:


An earlier version had the bezel in a platform, with the same tilted octagon frame. I was worried this would look odd, but maybe it's the best solution?


The octagon mold she sent today was from another attempt, but I am not crazy about the lack of inner bezel. The octo cad w/ inner bezel + prongs has not been finished yet.

I'm never going to have this stone on my hand if I don't decide!! Any help appreciated!

 

[MissGotRocks]

Would you consider some pave work to fill in the negative space? It might take away from the simplicity of the stone but seems like you would either have negative space or metal. Could there be some engraving scroll work done in the metal space? Just some random thoughts.

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

The actual "empty" space on the edges is very small, less than 1/2 mm. I was worried about having just metal there, but I'm thinking it won't be distracting. In the midst of working on this octagon dilemna, another PS'er posted her new AV ring. ..a bezeled round in an octagon. It's really beautuful. My octagon frame is a little different, but maybe it would work this well too? (Hope it's ok to post her AV ring here to show what I'm talking about. )

 

[MissGotRocks]

Yes, it is possible although the frame around the bezeled round looks a bit less edgy or angled than yours does. I like the bezel better than the prong set though so I am sure the jeweler can work on coming up with something suitable. As you said, the extra metal is really minimal so in regular viewing conditions it is probably not nearly as noticeable.

 

[Dreamer_D]

The prongs won't look like that when done. You won't see them at all.

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

I'm getting depressed about this!! Today I got the plastic for the round bezel in the octagon frame and I don't like it. I hoped I'd love it, but the bezel detracts from the octagon shape to me. (Plopped a gem in there to see with a stone)

Should I just go with the other plan, octagon faux bezel w prongs?

 

[EmeraldEmpress]

I'm getting depressed about this!! Today I got the plastic for the round bezel in the octagon frame and I don't like it. I hoped I'd love it, but the bezel detracts from the octagon shape to me. (Plopped a gem in there to see with a stone)

Should I just go with the other plan, octagon faux bezel w prongs?

So sorry to hear you're feeling that way : ( but I know how you feel, been there too.
Jewelry should always be happy and uplifting, so how can you get back on track?

I absolutely LOVED the style you showed us before (pasting photos here):

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

Thank you @EmeraldEmpress . I do think it will look much better like that. Sometimes I guess you have to see it to know if it works or not.

It's just going to be hard to write DK and tell them. Ugh.

 

[EmeraldEmpress]

Thank you @EmeraldEmpress . I do think it will look much better like that. Sometimes I guess you have to see it to know if it works or not.

It's just going to be hard to write DK and tell them. Ugh.

I know what you mean about having to see it sometimes, and also how it can feel painful to have to go back to a vendor and say you've changed your mind, prefer something else, etc. etc.
The bottom line though is that if it's a good vendor, who is Customer Service oriented, they will make it happen for you and ensure that you LOVE what you've purchased from them (even if they are just doing the setting portion). A good vendor will understand this, and it truly seems that DK falls into this category : ) You have an absolutely stunning stone, she deserves to be set just right : )

 

[YadaYadaYada]

I am definitely not an expert with this, I've just been following along to see your pretty new ring.

With the wax mold though isnt the bezel much more apparent than the metal will be since it will be a lot thinner? So then maybe in a wax cast it is distracting but the final product will be thinner being metal and more appealing?

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

I didn't realize til this was on my hand, but the distinct round shape really distracts from the octagon. I don't think thinner metal would really change it.
I was disappointed that this was not as appealing to me in person. I really want to be done!!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Yeah, I think prong set is better. Honestly, it really won't catch on anything provided the lip of the bezel protrudes enough that the prongs are entirely set down within the well of the bezel (I have seen him do a version of this kind of ring for another PSer and the diamond was not set low enough in the bezel and the prongs were up on top of the bezel instead of nestled down within, and you don't want that).

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

@dreamer_dachsie i will be sure and make that clear! Tuck away those prongs!
The first octagon mold they sent me had prongs that were definetly not discrete!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Yeah, the prong should be attached to the bezel *inside* the bezel. NOT on top of the lip. When seen from the side, the prongs should not be visible. Honesty, to get the right look, the prongs should probably not be cast with the mount. They need to be added by hand after. That is how mine were done. They are not notched prongs. There is a shelf all around the inside of the bezel, a few mm below the lip of the bezel, and the girdle of the diamond sits on that. Then the prongs gently hold the dimaond in place.

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

Thank you for that info! Trying to get prongs like that but also want that chunky crown to be freely visible. I will definitely discuss this with them.

 

[Dreamer_D]

See how you cannot see any prong on the top of the bezel? I really think the only way to get this look is to do it by hand when setting it. My jewler hand cut and shaped the prongs (little triangles) then laser welded them to the inside lip of the bezel.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Thank you for that info! Trying to get prongs like that but also want that chunky crown to be freely visible. I will definitely discuss this with them.

So the shelf is maybe 1.5 to 2mm a fraction of a mm below the lip of the bezel. My diamond has a very shallow crown, like an MRB but even shallower than most bc my stone only has about a 54% depth! Your OEC has a lot of crown. Imagine you only lose a tiny bit of view from the straight on side view. Of course, you don't see your ring from that angle. You see it on a tilt when worn. And you can see *into* the well of the bezel from that angle, so you can appreciate the crown very easily looking accross the top of the diamond from that angle. Like this... Even with my shallow crown you can easily perceive the roundness. It would be far more obvious with yours.




When I first got my ring it had bad blobby prongs that extended above the bezel and it did NOT looks as nice as it did after with the small, hand made, recessed prongs.



This is TGal's ring with a similar style. Hers has prong that are integrated into the basket and extend up from the basket/bezel (not set inside like mine). This is a pretty look when done well (not like the blobby ones my ring came with) but it can obscure the octagonal shape when viewed from the top:

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

what a difference! Your before pic is exactly what I want to avoid. (As a nurse with gloves on and off all day I just can't have prongs like that! )
I took screenshots of your pics to help me explain. You've been a big help! TY!

 

[gregchang35]

yes, i agree that the bezel on this ring is quite overpowering to the octagonal shape that you are looking for. Another vote of the clasp setting in your inspirational pics.

 

[Dreamer_D]

what a difference! Your before pic is exactly what I want to avoid. (As a nurse with gloves on and off all day I just can't have prongs like that! )
I took screenshots of your pics to help me explain. You've been a big help! TY!

If they are able to make the prongs like my revised setting was done, then you will have no trouble with wearing gloves. I found it perfectly smooth when worn.

 

[gregchang35]

Sorry to bring this note up... and i will get off my soap box after this msg.

I see that you are a nurse.... technically, you should not be wearing any rings under the gloves. the ring settings tend to rip the gloves often. Also, the ring does tend to harbour alot of bacteria. Normal hand washing will not remove the bacteria. So having gloves on and off all the time would meant more transfer of bacteria/ cross contamination.

Ppl forget to clean rings daily in ultrasonic/ toothbrush dawn liquid etc. there is just a lot of grime that gets into/ under the settings . Unless you clean your rings well with every glove change, it is difficult to maintain clean hands when rings are on.

then once you have clean hands with clean rings... the glove may/ may not rip....

I have come to accept that i cannot wear rings whilst i am working with gloves on. However, i love that my fingers look fab on the way to work and on the way back from work. ANd, if i have a planned or unplanned longer lunch, i get to admire my rings then too.

ONce again, sorry to bring the tone down a bit.

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

No worries Greg. I am very good about washing my hands and keeping my rings clean. I would definetly be more concerned if I worked in a sterile environment, like the OR, but I rarely do.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

FWIW, I think the faux-bezel octagon with teensy prongs is a gorgeous look, and would really suit your stone (of course, it would also suit Edwina but that's above my grade). It might be worth asking for that as a wax model before moving forward. When the right one slips on your finger, you'll feel it.
<3

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

Email sent.
Now I wait.

 

[MarionC]

Email sent.
Now I wait.

Courage!

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

I just love DKJ. Sent them a bit of a technical challenge, a bit off the beaten path, and boom, they nailed it. Think my cad days are finally behind me! I asked for one last plastic, just to be sure

 

[Dreamer_D]

Pictures or it didn't happen.