Notch in basket head prongs of setting. Yay or nay

[AL12]

Hi all, since this setting is to hold a lab diamond, I’m posting here to get the thoughts of all the great experts here. (Apologies if I get some setting terminologies wrong)

Starting to regret going an “easier route” on a lower cost project with a reputable local jeweler versus DK who is also local to me but with a much longer drive time/finicky parking situation.

I wanted a very simple 14k yellow gold setting, as thin as possible without compromising the integrity of the setting and stone. We decided on selecting a separate band and basket head which would be soldered together in-house. I tried on a display ring against my new wedding band upgrade (Cartier in photo) that the setting would be paired with and while the basket was the same, the band on the display setting (which is made of diamonds) was not which perhaps had the head sitting up a bit higher? In either case, there wasn’t a concern to me at the time that my wedding band and the basket on the new setting would be hitting against each other.


When I got the call that the setting was complete and I tried it on in store, the basket was completely hitting my wedding band and I raised this concern. Their suggestion was to create a small notch in the prongs coming up from the basket so that it would fit together. I felt a bit uncomfortable with this solution and suggested if it would be better to just change the basket head all together at this point but was assured the notch solution would be fine. Curious on what everyone’s thoughts are especially on potentially affecting the integrity of the setting.

Other notes: my Cartier band was purchased intentionally large to wear on multiple fingers. Therefore it is about one full size larger than my normal ring finger size. There were other minor mistakes with my setting order, nothing major but enough all together on what I viewed to be a fairly simple request where I walked out reconsidering my choice with the vendor.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Can you show us pictures of the issue?

 

[AL12]

Can you show us pictures of the issue?

Unfortunately I left without taking pictures since they took the setting back to place the notches. I did regret not taking the photos after I left since I had a feeling I would post here for advice.

 

[tyty333]

Is is metal against metal, or is it diamond against metal?

I, personally, would not put notches in an ering (unless maybe you consider it a travel ring and just dont care that much).

Sounds like you might need a taller donut under the head of the ering so that your wedding band hits against the donut and
not the prongs? (pictures would be beneficial here).

I guess since they are going to do the notches, you can see it in person and decide if it's "ok" or not. Please take pics and post!

 

[AL12]

It is metal against metal (of course my Cartier band has some diamonds within but that’s not the primary point of contact although I could envision some possible light contact on the diamonds).

This will be my primary setting and not a travel ring and I wear my rings daily and could be pretty hard on my hands.

I got a call that the ring is ready so I’ll go sometime today or tomorrow and make sure to take photos to share back on this thread!

 

[AL12]

@tyty333 here are some photos, would greatly appreciate your input.

Am I overly worried by how thin the notch makes the setting?

Because my band is a full size larger, it does sit flush with the setting at rest but laying my hand down or any slight movement still does rub against the band. Taking into the account the 10 year itch and that perhaps I’ll change out the setting or whole set in ten years or so, should I not be overly concerned?

I just also realized they didn’t ask me which direction to set the stone and they went ahead and set it east west, which is now also bothering my that these small details were overlooked.

 

[Dreamer_D]

That is appalling and I’d just ask for a refund and move on. I had a jeweller pull something like that on a setting I had made a million years ago when I was brand new to jewelry. It shocked me then and it shocks me now. Unacceptable structurally and aesthetically. It’s just waiting for a knock to pop the head right off!

 

[AL12]

That is appalling and I’d just ask for a refund and move on. I had a jeweller pull something like that on a setting I had made a million years ago when I was brand new to jewelry. It shocked me then and it shocks me now. Unacceptable structurally and aesthetically. It’s just waiting for a knock to pop the head right off!

Sigh…. Thank you for your feedback. I respect your opinion and your advice. I was trying to keep this new setting simple and local but it’s turning out to be a bit more of a headache than if I had just made the drive to DK. I did “ask” the right questions with the local vendor but was assured the bench would not create anything structurally unsound…

 

[Dreamer_D]

Sigh…. Thank you for your feedback. I respect your opinion and your advice. I was trying to keep this new setting simple and local but it’s turning out to be a bit more of a headache than if I had just made the drive to DK. I did “ask” the right questions with the local vendor but was assured the bench would not create anything structurally unsound…

yeah I’m sorry I couldn’t be more positive. It’s just disappointing and puzzling to see a jeweller think this is acceptable. I’ve been through the same thing a few times where I’ve just been baffled and disappointed. For some kinds of jewelry things I just lower my standards. But for other things it’s worth trying for better. I’m sure you did everything right in asking questions. There’s just so much variation in quality and standards. I suppose this “fix” would be fine for many people? Maybe the head would not fall off with a good knock? I just know I’d feel better with a different outcome.

 

[Lentibulariaceae]

Definitely no. That looks like a disaster just begging to happen. Bump that sucker on ANYTHING and those prongs are going to collapse in and potentially take the stone with them.

 

[AL12]

Definitely no. That looks like a disaster just begging to happen. Bump that sucker on ANYTHING and those prongs are going to collapse in and potentially take the stone with them.

Thanks for the input and also the photo that made me laugh since more than anything I am just upset at myself that I didn’t just go with DK and now I have to have this uncomfortable conversation with the vendor and start the process all over again.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Thanks for the input and also the photo that made me laugh since more than anything I am just upset at myself that I didn’t just go with DK and now I have to have this uncomfortable conversation with the vendor and start the process all over again.

Depending on your financial situation and the cost of the setting you could always just skip the uncomfortable convo… peace of mind and all that being worth money too. Chalk it up to lesson learned.

 

[luckygreen317]

That is appalling and I’d just ask for a refund and move on. I had a jeweller pull something like that on a setting I had made a million years ago when I was brand new to jewelry. It shocked me then and it shocks me now. Unacceptable structurally and aesthetically. It’s just waiting for a knock to pop the head right off!

I agree, that was a terrible solution and I get actually believed they suggested it. I am sorry you are going through this. I make a 4 hour round trip drive to go up to meet the DK team on my projects. It is not an easy drive or parking situation. They will offer to send a prepaid and insured label to send projects in. My quality expectations are set on their work, so I am a loyal customer.
Your band will get wear on the top edge rubbing against the “notch”. A spacer band may have been a better solution. What about the strength integrity of the 4 prongs now?

 

[Dreamer_D]

I agree, that was a terrible solution and I get actually believed they suggested it. I am sorry you are going through this. I make a 4 hour round trip drive to go up to meet the DK team on my projects. It is not an easy drive or parking situation. They will offer to send a prepaid and insured label to send projects in. My quality expectations are set on their work, so I am a loyal customer.
Your band will get wear on the top edge rubbing against the “notch”. A spacer band may have been a better solution. What about the strength integrity of the 4 prongs now?

Yeah I didn’t even think about how this solution will damage the carrier band! Worse and worse

 

[AL12]

Depending on your financial situation and the cost of the setting you could always just skip the uncomfortable convo… peace of mind and all that being worth money too. Chalk it up to lesson learned.

Unfortunately don’t have so much spare cash where I can just chalk this up as a loss. Would be nice though! But lesson DEFINITELY learned.

 

[AL12]

I agree, that was a terrible solution and I get actually believed they suggested it. I am sorry you are going through this. I make a 4 hour round trip drive to go up to meet the DK team on my projects. It is not an easy drive or parking situation. They will offer to send a prepaid and insured label to send projects in. My quality expectations are set on their work, so I am a loyal customer.
Your band will get wear on the top edge rubbing against the “notch”. A spacer band may have been a better solution. What about the strength integrity of the 4 prongs now?

Yes I have two projects done by DK with no complaints and would have continued to go to them if my setting had more high cost earth-mined stones or was more custom and intricate. I took the gamble with the local vendor to see if I could establish a new relationship at a ten minute drive time but looks like it backfired.

As I left I did express concern that I wasn’t concerned about the rubbing on the setting but unnecessary damage to my Cartier band was a huge concern for me. The response is that there would be rubbing no matter what but that I wouldn’t see it for years down the line.

 

[tyty333]

Do you think the setting they did for you is the same head as in the ring with the diamonds (in your first picture)? In that first
picture, the head looks like it sits on top of the band/shank, although its hard to tell because the picture is from the wrong direction.

With the ring they made for you the prongs go down the side of the shank, thus poking out (which they chose to chop off).

This setting is not structurally sound IMO, and they should have never delivered something that looks like this.

I would ask for a do-over or, like @Dreamer_D said, just skip it and move on to DK.

 

[AL12]

Do you think the setting they did for you is the same head as in the ring with the diamonds (in your first picture)? In that first
picture, the head looks like it sits on top of the band/shank, although its hard to tell because the picture is from the wrong direction.

With the ring they made for you the prongs go down the side of the shank, thus poking out (which they chose to chop off).

This setting is not structurally sound IMO, and they should have never delivered something that looks like this.

I would ask for a do-over or, like @Dreamer_D said, just skip it and move on to DK.

You're right, at closer look they are very similar but since the band and the head were separate and soldered together you're right that it is joining at the band at a different area which is causing the cartier band to hit the head.

Thanks for taking a look and providing your input that aligns with everyone else that posted. Time to send my uncomfortable email with hopes that we can come to a resolution without too much push back.