Find your diamond
Find your jewelry
shape
carat
color
clarity

Newbie here looking for advice on buying an OEC e-ring

P

Pandemonium35

Rough_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 4, 2018
Messages
19
Hi all,

I found this forum days ago and can't believe I didn't come across this sooner! I would like your advice on buying an OEC e-ring. There are two jewelers I found that have settings I love: cvbinspired (dahlia style) and ring concierge (signature antique style). I definitely want a yellow gold ring and I am new to learning about diamonds, especially old european cuts (which quite frankly I had never heard of until 3 weeks ago), so am hesitant/nervous to buy a diamond online, sight unseen. So, I would prefer to buy both the setting and diamond from one of the above jewelers directly. How much more would I be looking at paying if I went that route? Budget is $15-20K for the diamond and setting. Ring concierge quoted me $15-20K for a 2ct stone in her signature antique style. I haven't reached out to cvbinspired yet, but will today. I'm looking for a nice white diamond, good cut and clarity. Is a $15-20K budget reasonable for what I'm looking for?

Second question is, since I've never done this before - how does it work? I reach out to jeweler, they source diamonds, show me, then I decide and the setting gets made? Do I have to pay a deposit upfront? My boyfriend had previously been working with a jeweler, but was very slow on making decisions and relatively undecided, and I guess the jeweler had some issues regarding returning a deposit because he had had the diamonds for so long he wanted to compensate the vendor. I'm not sure of the details, but I want to avoid a situation like that in the future, so would like to find out what's typical/how things work.

Any advice would be great!!
 
So my first piece of advice and the critical piece of advice is do not buy an old cut without really familiarizing yourself with the different flavors of old cuts. You are new to them and have not seen enough (any?) in person and each old cut has a different personality and flavor. And what is your color and clarity tolerance etc. There is just too much unknown to rush into a purchase at this time IMO. Try getting to a place that specializes in old cuts and see as many as you can.

Check this thread out.

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/old-cut-lovers-please-sign-in.113724/
 
I have seen a few in person, already in settings. There's a local jeweler (Greenwich Street Jewelers) that carries SingleStone and I was eyeing those a couple weeks ago. But yes, that was the first time I had seen an old cut in person. I was originally planning on buying a modern round brilliant, and we wanted to go for an E or F color, VVS1, very good or excellent cut. I know with the antique stones they're generally lower in color and clarity, but I saw an L or M OEC in a couple of SingleStone rings and they seemed to sparkle just fine. I haven't seen anything whiter than L or M, though. Where would one look to find old cuts in person? I am in NYC. Ringconcierge said that she would source diamonds so I could look at them. Am I under an obligation to purchase from someone if they've sourced diamonds for me? How does this work?
 
Pandemonium35 said:
I have seen a few in person, already in settings. There's a local jeweler (Greenwich Street Jewelerys) that carries SingleStone and I was eyeing those a couple weeks ago. But yes, that was the first time I had seen an old cut in person. I was originally planning on buying a modern round brilliant, and we wanted to go for an E or F color, VVS1, very good or excellent cut. I know with the antique stones they're generally lower in color and clarity, but I saw an L or M OEC in a couple of SingleStone rings and they seemed to sparkle just fine. I haven't seen anything whiter than L or M, though. Where would one look to find old cuts in person? I am in NYC.
Click to expand...

OMG! You are in the *best* place for old cuts IMO. Contact Adam @oldworlddiamonds. He has the best supply of OECs anywhere IMO. And he is the nicest kindest and most knowledgeable person. I cannot emphasize this enough. You will be in good hands. He is very trustworthy. Plus his old cut collection is TDF!
:love::love::love:

Contact him via phone IMO. His online website doesnt have pics of much of his inventory and are not the best pics either. Call him and tell him what you are looking for and your budget. And then get there and see his old cuts in person. In person is the best way to view these old cut diamonds. No question about it. So you can see your preferences before making any decisions.


ETA: I got my OEC ER with Adam and many of my friends have had successful dealings with him. You will not be disappointed. He is a genuinely nice guy with the best old cut diamonds available.
 
thank you!! I will do that =)! I had read about old world diamonds on here and was on their website last night but I didn't realize they were local!
 
What type of setting are you after? And the size you are looking for is 2 carats?
 
I'm looking for a solitaire setting. I've spent some time looking around and have settled on the Dahlia from cvb or the signature antique style from ring concierge in NY. I haven't seen either in person though.
 
Thank you, JNP!
 
  • Like
Reactions: jnp
If I find a diamond from someone other than the jeweler making the setting, do I just obtain the diamond and then send it to the jeweler to make the setting? Do you have to insure it before you send it to them/what if something happens to the diamond during the setting process? Also, sorry to sound paranoid, but do you then usually have it appraised upon return to make sure the diamond is the same one you sent? I have had a couple of friends who had issues with being sold X when they were told it was Y (ending in litigation, which they won, but still), so I'm just overly cautious and unfamiliar with how this process works.
 
Pandemonium35 said:
If I find a diamond from someone other than the jeweler making the setting, do I just obtain the diamond and then send it to the jeweler to make the setting? Do you have to insure it before you send it to them/what if something happens to the diamond during the setting process? Also, sorry to sound paranoid, but do you then usually have it appraised upon return to make sure the diamond is the same one you sent? I have had a couple of friends who had issues with being sold X when they were told it was Y (ending in litigation, which they won, but still), so I'm just overly cautious and unfamiliar with how this process works.
Click to expand...

Erica is trusted PS vendor. She knows Caysie and will send the stone to her. I insure the loose stone when it's purchased. Using Erica and CVB is a very easy process. I purchased all my stones from Erica, and had them sent to Caysie:)
 
Thank you, SoxFan!
 
Pandemonium35 said:
Thank you, SoxFan!
Click to expand...

You're welcome! Erica has a great eye for stones and Caysie's work is amazing! You can't go wrong with that combo. I think her prices are the best around as well.
 
missy said:
OMG! You are in the *best* place for old cuts IMO. Contact Adam @oldworlddiamonds. He has the best supply of OECs anywhere IMO. And he is the nicest kindest and most knowledgeable person. I cannot emphasize this enough. You will be in good hands. He is very trustworthy. Plus his old cut collection is TDF!
:love::love::love:

Contact him via phone IMO. His online website doesnt have pics of much of his inventory and are not the best pics either. Call him and tell him what you are looking for and your budget. And then get there and see his old cuts in person. In person is the best way to view these old cut diamonds. No question about it. So you can see your preferences before making any decisions.


ETA: I got my OEC ER with Adam and many of my friends have had successful dealings with him. You will not be disappointed. He is a genuinely nice guy with the best old cut diamonds available.
Click to expand...

I also got my OEC from Adam. Single stone has some nice OECs but you really owe it to yourself before committing to see as many as you can IRL. Make an appt to see Adam. Don’t have to buy from him but he has MANY for you to see so you can develop your eye and discern your taste. They are all different. Absolutely see Grace as well because she also has an excellent eye and very competitive prices. She based in CA so while she is in NYC go see her. Another poster said she was there. Email her ASAP and arrange a time or visit if she is at a show. I wouldn’t buy anything until you’ve seen a bunch. Then wait and see which stone is the unforgettable one. Your OEC will call out to you.
 
I remember when a previous poster on here was asking about Ring Concierge the general consensus on the board was to go with one of the recommended vendors here over her since she isn't actually a bench jeweler herself, she just takes your order and contracts the work out to third parties. So you might as well go with someone (i.e. CvB) who is the jeweler themselves and cut out the middle man.

Also while I love her signature ring, I would want to know it was handforged (not cast) by a well known jeweler who specializes in this. I'm not sure if what she offers is hand forged or cast. But if that's the style you want I wonder if you could get one of the well known hand forged jewelers to do a similar version to her ring. It's a bit of a grey area, since her ring is an antique, it isn't technically her own design.
 
Hi, I just wanted to say I purchased a diamond at Love Affair Diamonds, and had her send it to CVB to set in the Dahlia :), although she has wonderful settings herself, I already owned the Dahlia. I have also purchased from Jewels by Grace. I found them to be easy to work with as well. I would choose Grace for a larger selection, and Love Affair Diamonds for a better upgrade policy. I love CVB, definitely my taste and the quality is amazing but you are on the right track with what you have done so far!
 
OFY said:
I remember when a previous poster on here was asking about Ring Concierge the general consensus on the board was to go with one of the recommended vendors here over her since she isn't actually a bench jeweler herself, she just takes your order and contracts the work out to third parties. So you might as well go with someone (i.e. CvB) who is the jeweler themselves and cut out the middle man.

Also while I love her signature ring, I would want to know it was handforged (not cast) by a well known jeweler who specializes in this. I'm not sure if what she offers is hand forged or cast. But if that's the style you want I wonder if you could get one of the well known hand forged jewelers to do a similar version to her ring. It's a bit of a grey area, since her ring is an antique, it isn't technically her own design.
Click to expand...

Can you explain what the difference/importance is in hand forged vs hand cast?
 
Pandemonium35 said:
Can you explain what the difference/importance is in hand forged vs hand cast?
Click to expand...


hand forged is made with extruded wire and is said to be stronger/more dense than a ring made by casting (RC's work may very well be hand forged, she just doesn't mention it one way or the other, and those who do hand forge typically advertise this as it's considered higher quality and commands a higher price tag).

I don't think there's anything wrong with well done cast pieces, but I read on gemhunt that her ring is only 1.3mm wide, which is much thinner than most vendors would recommend. If I were to go with something so delicate I would want the extra strength you supposedly get from hand forged pieces - although I don't know if that would be enough to compensate for such a hair thin shank.

I'm not an expert but the handforged vs cast debate has been brought up here in multiple threads and a quick google search should probably surface them. Well known hand forged vendors whose work has been extensively vetted here are: Victor Canera, Steven Kirsch, Leon Mege and to a lesser extent Engagement Rings Direct (their bench does both) and I think maybe Maytal Hannah?
 
This is all very interesting and something I definitely will need to research. In your experience, what is the thinnest width recommended?
 
And thank you all for the comments, they've been most helpful!
 
Pandemonium35 said:
This is all very interesting and something I definitely will need to research. In your experience, what is the thinnest width recommended?
Click to expand...

Depends who you ask and is also the subject of many PS debates. Many jewelers won't go thinner than 2mm wide, I personally think 1.5mm is fine as long as there is no pave and the thickness/height off the finger is enough to prevent the ring from going out of round.
 
Pandemonium35 said:
This is all very interesting and something I definitely will need to research. In your experience, what is the thinnest width recommended?
Click to expand...
Every jeweler is different. I have not seen Victor go thinner than about 1.8mm. I think you would work with the recommendations of the vendor you are working with and the style you choose.
 
LLJsmom said:
Every jeweler is different. I have not seen Victor go thinner than about 1.8mm. I think you would work with the recommendations of the vendor you are working with and the style you choose.
Click to expand...

That's 1.8 with pave though, correct? I wonder how he'd feel about going thinner with a tri-wire design (which is what Ring Concierge signature antique ring is).

Leon Mege goes thinner even with pave, but I have read threads indicating there has been some concern over how well his designs hold up, even with his superb craftsmanship
 
1.8 is VERY thin. I wouldn't go any thinner, even with no pave. Also, some designs are better made via cast and some designs are better made handforged. I would let your jeweler decide which is the better method for whatever design you ultimately go with.

Also, to clarify some of the earlier comments, Caysie and Ring Concierge are basically the same service, sourcing stones and designing settings and then sending the design to be made at a third party bench. I know Caysie is more of a preferred vendor on PS than RC, but they would do the same work for you, e.g. they would not be making the ring themselves.
 
OFY said:
I remember when a previous poster on here was asking about Ring Concierge the general consensus on the board was to go with one of the recommended vendors here over her since she isn't actually a bench jeweler herself, she just takes your order and contracts the work out to third parties. So you might as well go with someone (i.e. CvB) who is the jeweler themselves and cut out the middle man.

Also while I love her signature ring, I would want to know it was handforged (not cast) by a well known jeweler who specializes in this. I'm not sure if what she offers is hand forged or cast. But if that's the style you want I wonder if you could get one of the well known hand forged jewelers to do a similar version to her ring. It's a bit of a grey area, since her ring is an antique, it isn't technically her own design.
Click to expand...

Caysie is a very talented designer, she does not do the benchwork herself either. Many of the "trusted" vendors on here have a team of bench people they use that do the work for them.
 
OFY said:
That's 1.8 with pave though, correct? I wonder how he'd feel about going thinner with a tri-wire design (which is what Ring Concierge signature antique ring is).

Leon Mege goes thinner even with pave, but I have read threads indicating there has been some concern over how well his designs hold up, even with his superb craftsmanship
Click to expand...

I have one of Victor’s tri-wires and of course each individual wire is smaller than 1.8 but he “puts” them together so as a whole piece it is thicker than 2.0. If I had to eyeball it I would say it’s shy of 2.5mm. I would bet $$ that he would never consider a single wire by itself. And I have both pave and plain bands from Victor. Both are about 1.9 mm. I may be off a little with my calipers.
 
Caysie is a gifted designer and does have a bench that completes her work just like most talented designers. Fine rings can be cast or handforged. If you go into Tiffany or Cartier, etc, you will find that most of their jewelry is cast, so that is not an issue. You want high quality work regardless of the method of fabrication.

I could start a site right now and copy and adapt antique rings and sell them. That is a HUGE difference from someone talented in design like Caysie.

That signature ring from RC you are talking about is too thin. Gold particularly wears away over time and those rings made in gold would never make it for 50 years. The platinum is softer and I can see them bending out of shape over time. I am considering having a similar ring made by Caysie, but it will definitely be more than 1.5mm for the main shank. That is a well known antique design, so anyone can make it (and make it better).

As far as diamonds go, Caysie has an excellent relationship with Adam from OWD and Jonathan of August Vintage for OECs and new OECs. I know she has other contacts as well. She wouldn't quote you a price like that for the whole ring. It depends on the actual cost of the diamond!!! She can tell you the cost of the setting. I haven't gotten a quote yet, but I have similar rings to show her. I love that design! The thing I have experienced with Caysie is that when I give her inspiration pics, her design always is better than the original.
 
Last edited:
GET 3 FREE HCA RESULTS JOIN THE FORUM. ASK FOR HELP
Jewelry Blog
PriceScope-Concierge-Ad
Find prime cuts.
Top