Need EC Engagement Ring Help!!

[disneysuperfan]

I'm planning a surprise proposal for my GF in a couple weeks. I've been searching for different rings for several months now. She has expressed to me that she wants a clean EC. She also has expressed her dislike for high settings.

I purchased this ring through Shane Co. 1.2 Carat EC, VS2 G. I love most aspects of it except the height of the stone. Unfortunately, they told me there's very little that can be done to get this stone to sit lower on this setting.

Should I use this ring as a place holder (return it back to Shane, if she doesn't like it)? Or just return it altogether and try to use a place holder so that she can create a custom ring of her liking in the near future? One option I was thinking about if we were to go with a custom ring is to have the CAD ring printed out of plastic on a 3D printer and propose to her w/ a plastic replica.

I think the only way to get the look I'm looking for is to go custom.

Tell me what you thoughts are on the ring? The setting height etc...I'm starting to have buyer remorse and not completely sure if I got her style 100% correct. Thanks.

 

[dk168]

IMHO, it is difficult to advise on ring style as it is dependent on personal tastes and preferences.

Although I love ECs, I don't like rings with claw settings, or stones on the shank, or split shanks, or for the basket/setting to sit too proud and high on the shank.

Therefore, I am afraid the setting does nothing for me, sorry!

I believe it would be an excellent and thoughtful idea to present your lucky girlfriend with the diamond alone, with an IOU attached with the promise that she can choose whatever ring setting her heart desires (within reason, of course!).

Good luck with whatever you decide.

DK

 

[Gypsy]

I don't like peg heads, and that particular peg head is just asking for snagging.

How much did the setting cost you?

 

[chatbandit]

i quite like it but also dislike high settings and can see why it would be snaggy. i'd propose to her with the ring letting her know you can now work on a custom setting, but wanted her to have something to wear immediately to get to know the diamond! see how she feels about it-- you may be surprised.

 

[disneysuperfan]

My budget was 10k, 1.5k for the setting and 8.5k for the stone. Think I probably could of done a little better online.

I'm in love with the Leon Mege EC's, but not sure if I can afford it.


Do you guys know of any similar style rings, split shank EC?

 

[Gypsy]

You definitely can't afford that unless you seriously blow the budget as it runs 4500 ish.
You can get it custom made with a CAD and CAST through ERD for significantly less though. But it will still run you about 2800 in white gold and with half eternity on the shank.

 

[Gypsy]

I hope you don't mind my saying this but. I think you may have overpaid for that EC. The price sounded really high to me for a 1.2 G VS2... and well, when I checked on a couple sites... it is high. Like. By a lot.

Here's an E VS2: http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.20-carat-e-color-vs2-clarity-sku-229364 7,500.
And here's a gorgeous E VS1 for 500 less than you paid: http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.21-carat-e-color-vs1-clarity-sku-30522
And a 1.3 G VS1 for 500 less than you paid: http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.31-carat-g-color-vs1-clarity-sku-30482


Despite the polish and symmetry ratings this one is a potentially gorgeous stone for example: http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.20-carat-h-color-vs2-clarity-sku-257020 And it's 5,450 and opens your budget up by a lot.

 

[CharmyPoo]

I suggest return and start over.

 

[disneysuperfan]

wow... good finds Gypsy. Thanks for looking out.

I'll take another look at getting a different EC. Would you recommend James Allan over Blue Nile? I was able find some decent stones on BN:

http://www.bluenile.com/diamond-search?pt=setform&track=NavDiaSeaEC#diamonds_pid=LD03528139

 

[Gypsy]

You need pictures to buy fancies.

Or else how would you know if you should buy this stone:
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.62-carat-f-color-vs2-clarity-sku-148409 Dark and dissapointing on visual examination. But perfect by the numbers. Table is smaller than the depth. The depth is just where it should be. Excellent polish and symmetry. Still... would you buy that one or the next one if given a choice?

Or this one:
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.52-carat-g-color-vs1-clarity-sku-237978 Stats are not as nice: symmetry is only very good instead of excellent and from the stats, you might be worried that the depth is too shallow. But a visual examination shows a lovely stone is a lot of potential.


Blue Nile doesn't provide images. And absolutely do not provide videos of each and every stone so you can compare the stones.

Also they don't provide ASET images. What is an ASET image you ask? Read this about the ASET scope: http://www.highperformancediamonds.com/index.php?page=education-performance

And here's a blub from one of our experts about the ASET:

I think it is more important that the purpose of the ASET be understood. I see talk of "red being better than green" etc. That is an incorrect interpretation of the purpose of the ASET in my opinion.

The ASET is a tool that will tell you where the light that you are seeing in a diamond is coming from.

The following degrees are from the horizon as 0 degrees to straight up as 90 degrees. The degrees also specify from where the light is coming in relation to the stone. There is no attempt to measure light that comes from below the horizon of the stone, since the importance of that light to the brilliance of the stone is minuscule.

From 0 degrees to 45 degrees the light that you are seeing in the ASET is depicted as green. In the older cuts you will see a LOT of green as they were cut to detect light from the walls and the lamps on them in the olden days.

From 45 degrees to 75 degrees, the light that you are seeing in the ASET is depicted as red. This light is often stronger than the light detected from the sides, especially indoors since we now have our lighting set in the ceilings of our rooms rather than on the sides. Thus strong presence of red indicates that the stone will be quite brilliant. However, if the stone were completely red with no contrast, you might as well be looking in a mirror, which would be quite boring as well as potentially embarrassing if it revealed a new pimple in its flawless return of the light.

From 75 to 90 degrees the light that you are seeing in the ASET is depicted as blue. This is in fact the obstruction that is caused by the very act of you turning the diamond so that you can observe the diamond perpendicularly to the table. It is very important as this is what provides the contrast. The Dark Blue are normally facets that are "turned off" since your head is blocking the light that is attempting to get to them. Even the beating of your heart is enough to cause the diamond to minutely move, turning on some of the facets that are off and on some off some of the facets that are on. It is this sparkling, or scintillation as it is called that makes diamonds exciting. (If you have a big head or a bouffant hairdo you might actually obscure up to 40 degrees instead of the 30 degrees that is shown in the ASET. This is also why so many close up pictures of diamonds look so horrible, as the lens is blocking too many degrees of light making the diamond look dark when at a normal viewing distance it is incredible.)

When a dark background is used, black is the color that is depicted where there is no reflection of light from that position of the stone. A little black around the edges can be an additional contrast that is not all bad. Excessive black is telling the tale on a lifeless lump of crystallized carbon that very few people will ever want to own. If no background is used, the areas that are black will appear as clear areas.

As has been said, green is not bad, it is merely light that is coming in from the sides of the diamond, and since it is less brilliant usually than light coming in from overhead, it too can add a touch of extra contrast to your diamond. Too much green in a stone that should be cut to grab most of its light from overhead is not good though. It is very common to see much more green in a princess or cushion cut than we would accept in a modern round brilliant as the physics of light science decree that light in a square stone reacts differently than in a round stone.

Long story short. None of the colors is inherently good or bad, it is the combination of them that makes a stone desirable. Those combinations will also be different in different shaped diamonds.

Sad short story. Most retail jewelers will not have a clue what you are talking about when you ask about an ASET image. That says too many volumes about the educational level of most retail jewelers.

Wink

JA does provide ASET images, which along with the gemologist inspection they offer for each stone is helpful in evaluating fancy cuts.

 

[Gypsy]

That SAID.

Since you want that split shank setting, your best bet might be working with Engagement Rings Direct. You can do a search for them on here to see the reviews.

They have a GREAT CAD pave bench and could do an exceptional version of that Leon you are loving for much less than the handforged version will cost you. And Mark has a great eye for fancy's and exceptional connections. He can call in several stones for you, and get you images and an ASET of each.

And that way you could get it all done at one jeweler.

What is the advantage of that? Insurance. If you buy the stone and setting in the same place there's no insurance issue. What do I mean? Most jewelers will not insure outside stones for damage while setting.

Here's something I wrote for another poster that might help you too.
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So, before you turn over any outside stone to any jeweler you have to ask: Does you insurance cover my stone while setting? If the answer is 'yes'... then when you give them the stone and BEFORE THEY START WORKING ON IT they should give you a ticket for it and on that ticket it should list everything about the stone. So usually they will list the following: Lab report number, color, clarity, shape, weight. Estimated value (you can show them your receipt and they should list that value on the ticket). Their OWN observation of the stone's condition. So if the stone is damaged, they should have a diagram picture of the stone with the damage shown with notations. If the stone is undamaged they should note that. AND THEN, they should have a statement right there on the ticket that states that the stone is covered by their insurance while in their possession and during the setting process against loss or damage.

If the answer is NO, my insurance does not cover it. Then the ticket should list all of the above. But have a statement on the ticket that says that it is NOT covered while it is being set (but still should still be covered in the event they lose it or something that has nothing to do with the setting). AND THEN YOU NEED TO GET YOUR OWN INSURANCE FOR IT.

So what do I mean by that? You have to get the ring insured anyway. They only difference is instead of waiting till after the thing is complete to get it insured privately. You get the unset stone insured before setting (Jewelers Mutual is most recommended, but a rider on your home owners or renters could work too... but those are MUCH harder to deal with, trust me). Now most insurances will NOT insure unset stones, with the exception of it as part of a ring, and while it is being initially set. So... all that means is you submit your information on the stone BEFORE you get it set. Then you tell the insurance company who is working on it and give them a receipt from the jeweler who is setting your stone, that verifies that you paid a deposit, lists the setting information description and then it is insured during the setting.

Now, what happens AFTER you pick up the ring. You take possession ONLY after you look at that sucker at EVERY SINGLE POSSIBLE ANGLE under a SUPER MAGNIFIED Loupe (most jewelers will have large 40x loupes or something greater than 10x). And EVEN THEN, the best thing to do is LIST on the ticket that states that you are taking the ring that you will be getting it appraised within 7 days (or however many days it will take you till your appraisal appointment), to ensure that there is no issue such as a manufacturing defect or damage to the stone.

Then you get it appraised. What does that mean? You do not go to a rival jeweler. Or ANY jeweler to get an appraisal. You get an appraisal as soon you can (before ANYONE wears it) from an INDEPENDENT appraiser (see link here: https://www.pricescope.com/appraisers ) and then you get the report from them if there is any issue. And you take it back and then you work with the jeweler to resolve. If there is no issue, then... enjoy.

 

[JulieN]

Does it have a GIA report? If not, then definitely start over.