M
mx5_dvr
Guest
I have just gone through diamond buying process multiple times and would like to share my experience with future newbies, before I leave this forum.
The reason for this post is that while I was going through learning process, I started to realize some information from internet or forums is biased or incomplete and could mislead people.
I don't have any sponsorship from any vendor so my view should be neutral and is solely based my own shopping experience. My sole intention for this post is to provide some information to future new shoppers.
I don't ask for full agreements from everyone. I don't expect anyway because a lot of things are subjective anyway.
I just hope the time I spent here will be helpful to some others.
For a given budget, you have 4 knobs to play: SIZE, CUT, COLOR and CLARITY. They all affect the price.
SIZE:
CARAT number doesn't automatically translate into size. I look for diameter numbers from the certificate and compare among different diamonds. However, I don't think small diameter difference such as 0.05mm would make any visual difference in reality.
CUT:
CUT is very important. It has direct impact on the overall appearance of the diamond (scintillation & sparkle). It also affect the size of diamond (spread). It also affects face up whiteness (excellent cut diamonds returns more light and hence face up view looks white).
I search diamonds with these filter values relevant to cut:
Cut: Excellent/Ideal
Symmetry: Excellent/Ideal
Polish: Excellent/Ideal
Lab: GIA/AGS
Depth: 60%-62%
Table: 54%-58%
Then, I request/download GIA/AGS certificate and check Crown angle & Pavilion angle values. I look for these (GIA values as example):
- 34.5/40.8
- 35-35.5/40.6
- 33-34/40.8
- 35/40.8 (if pavilion depth <= 43% and Total depth <= Crown height + Girdle + Pavilion Depth)
Then, check and ensure:
- Table: 55%-57%
- Lower half length: 75%
- Girdle: 3.0-4.0%
- Culet size: none
Then, Look at face up picture to ensure arrows are clean, crispy, contrasty, and with good symmetry such as:

James Allen provides pictures/videos under very controlled and consistent lighting to help objectively see the nature of the diamond and compare. This is one reason I highly recommend James Allen.
I personally don't care about "Super-ideal cut", "Hearts and Arrows", or whatever fancy marketing terms and I will not pay any premium for these labels (see Price section). I think any cut difference beyond my selection criterion will be more likely personality difference (more fire vs more brilliance for example) than anything else.
COLOR:
While cut quality can affect face up whiteness due to the level of light return, cut quality cannot replace color rating entirely! Otherwise GIA wouldn't grade color. No matter how ideal the cut is, it will not hide color from side view or tilt view, especially under very common diffused lighting condition such as office environment. People actually don't always look at your diamond top down. A lot of times, people look at your diamond sitting next to you and that view could be a tilt view. You will also look at you diamond in the car when the hand on driving wheel as tilt/side view. Office/diffused lighting condition is very common and side/tilt view is also very common. Keep that in mind and color does matter !
I learnt hard lesson to be finally convinced that I personally would not go below H, especially for diamonds over 1ct.
Even with the same color grade, there could be some difference and only James Allen's side view picture can help determine that. This is another reason why I recommend James Allen.

For example, in the above picture, left most one has the lightest color and right most one has brown tone. So, don't just settle for a color rating and you should compare your candidate diamond with other diamonds with the same rating to ensure you are not getting one at lower end of the rating.
I personally only pick Fluorescence None or Faint. I know many people are happy with higher. Higher fluorescence may offset some yellow tone and reduce price but keep in mind it wouldn't help in very common office lighting condition where color is manifested the most.
CLARITY:
This is more subjective. Some people are ok with any eye-clean diamonds but "eye-clean" is subjective in my opinion. I also noticed that clarity rating doesn't affect price as much/consistently as color or carat ratings. To be safe, I search at minimum VS2 and usually consider VS1 or higher and prefer VVS or higher.
PRICE:
There are many online vendors such as James Allen, Blue Nile, WhiteFlash, with Clarity, YADAV, Ritani, just to name a few. However, I have found that James Allen pretty consistently provides the best pricing as a whole (especially when you also buy a setting).
Just as an example, between this James Allen one at $8270 (which I bought) and WhiteFlash one at $11934, an apple to apple comparison (in terms of color/clarity/size), I simply cannot justify over 40% price difference, not to mention the cut quality is lower on WF's one.
This is the GIA report and web screen for James Allen one:


This is the GIA and web screen for WhiteFlash one:


One may argue WF's flagship is ACA diamonds, but I don't belive I can get a ACA from WF at the same level of combination of 5 factors: price, cut, color, clarity and size, even if I drop clarity from IF to VVS.
**edited by moderator, no referral links per our rules please**
Conclusion:
Get educated but don't get easily influenced and make up your own mind with all 5 things consciously considered (price, cut, color, clarity and size).
The reason for this post is that while I was going through learning process, I started to realize some information from internet or forums is biased or incomplete and could mislead people.
I don't have any sponsorship from any vendor so my view should be neutral and is solely based my own shopping experience. My sole intention for this post is to provide some information to future new shoppers.
I don't ask for full agreements from everyone. I don't expect anyway because a lot of things are subjective anyway.
I just hope the time I spent here will be helpful to some others.
For a given budget, you have 4 knobs to play: SIZE, CUT, COLOR and CLARITY. They all affect the price.
SIZE:
CARAT number doesn't automatically translate into size. I look for diameter numbers from the certificate and compare among different diamonds. However, I don't think small diameter difference such as 0.05mm would make any visual difference in reality.
CUT:
CUT is very important. It has direct impact on the overall appearance of the diamond (scintillation & sparkle). It also affect the size of diamond (spread). It also affects face up whiteness (excellent cut diamonds returns more light and hence face up view looks white).
I search diamonds with these filter values relevant to cut:
Cut: Excellent/Ideal
Symmetry: Excellent/Ideal
Polish: Excellent/Ideal
Lab: GIA/AGS
Depth: 60%-62%
Table: 54%-58%
Then, I request/download GIA/AGS certificate and check Crown angle & Pavilion angle values. I look for these (GIA values as example):
- 34.5/40.8
- 35-35.5/40.6
- 33-34/40.8
- 35/40.8 (if pavilion depth <= 43% and Total depth <= Crown height + Girdle + Pavilion Depth)
Then, check and ensure:
- Table: 55%-57%
- Lower half length: 75%
- Girdle: 3.0-4.0%
- Culet size: none
Then, Look at face up picture to ensure arrows are clean, crispy, contrasty, and with good symmetry such as:

James Allen provides pictures/videos under very controlled and consistent lighting to help objectively see the nature of the diamond and compare. This is one reason I highly recommend James Allen.
I personally don't care about "Super-ideal cut", "Hearts and Arrows", or whatever fancy marketing terms and I will not pay any premium for these labels (see Price section). I think any cut difference beyond my selection criterion will be more likely personality difference (more fire vs more brilliance for example) than anything else.
COLOR:
While cut quality can affect face up whiteness due to the level of light return, cut quality cannot replace color rating entirely! Otherwise GIA wouldn't grade color. No matter how ideal the cut is, it will not hide color from side view or tilt view, especially under very common diffused lighting condition such as office environment. People actually don't always look at your diamond top down. A lot of times, people look at your diamond sitting next to you and that view could be a tilt view. You will also look at you diamond in the car when the hand on driving wheel as tilt/side view. Office/diffused lighting condition is very common and side/tilt view is also very common. Keep that in mind and color does matter !
I learnt hard lesson to be finally convinced that I personally would not go below H, especially for diamonds over 1ct.
Even with the same color grade, there could be some difference and only James Allen's side view picture can help determine that. This is another reason why I recommend James Allen.

For example, in the above picture, left most one has the lightest color and right most one has brown tone. So, don't just settle for a color rating and you should compare your candidate diamond with other diamonds with the same rating to ensure you are not getting one at lower end of the rating.
I personally only pick Fluorescence None or Faint. I know many people are happy with higher. Higher fluorescence may offset some yellow tone and reduce price but keep in mind it wouldn't help in very common office lighting condition where color is manifested the most.
CLARITY:
This is more subjective. Some people are ok with any eye-clean diamonds but "eye-clean" is subjective in my opinion. I also noticed that clarity rating doesn't affect price as much/consistently as color or carat ratings. To be safe, I search at minimum VS2 and usually consider VS1 or higher and prefer VVS or higher.
PRICE:
There are many online vendors such as James Allen, Blue Nile, WhiteFlash, with Clarity, YADAV, Ritani, just to name a few. However, I have found that James Allen pretty consistently provides the best pricing as a whole (especially when you also buy a setting).
Just as an example, between this James Allen one at $8270 (which I bought) and WhiteFlash one at $11934, an apple to apple comparison (in terms of color/clarity/size), I simply cannot justify over 40% price difference, not to mention the cut quality is lower on WF's one.
This is the GIA report and web screen for James Allen one:


This is the GIA and web screen for WhiteFlash one:


One may argue WF's flagship is ACA diamonds, but I don't belive I can get a ACA from WF at the same level of combination of 5 factors: price, cut, color, clarity and size, even if I drop clarity from IF to VVS.
**edited by moderator, no referral links per our rules please**
Conclusion:
Get educated but don't get easily influenced and make up your own mind with all 5 things consciously considered (price, cut, color, clarity and size).
Last edited by a moderator: