shape
carat
color
clarity

Mixing styles - setting advice please!

Novel

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 31, 2009
Messages
1,199
Hey all, I've ventured out of my CS comfort zone into the wide and exciting world of diamonds. And settings. So, please, help me!

My boyfriend and I are starting to look at e-rings (woo). There is a roughly 2 carat round (not sure of the cut - it hasn't been appraised in probably 20 years and is from 1940) that my mother will probably pass on to me for us to use. We've been looking in stores together and I'm drawn mainly to semi-bezels, fluid settings, and a little extra side sparkle, but not much. I have a small finger (4.25) so I don't want anything overpowering, as this diamond is enormous to me as is. I also really love bezel set sidestones.

Here is where I need help: I really like the below setting from Greenlake in platinum but think I'd want it with a delicate, vintagey looking bezel or semi-bezel and just the first two little melee on each side. My preference would be for a semi-bezel, but I'm worried I'd basically be imposing a modern looking element onto a vintage looking piece.

So, advice, please! Clashing styles? Will work together? Scrap it and start anew? Give the 2 carat-er to someone else who will appreciate it more? ;-)

My boyfriend is laughing as I post this, saying, "help us, guys (and ladies), help us!"

MTG_A_20963 10.jpg
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
27,298
my one concern with putting an older stone into a thick/bold bezel or semi-bezel is that the stone is not going to be cut for fantastic light return to begin with, and the bezel style will prevent extra light from entering through the sides/upper girdle facets that would help make the stone look brighter and more lively.
 

Novel

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 31, 2009
Messages
1,199
Yssie|1292296042|2796225 said:
my one concern with putting an older stone into a thick/bold bezel or semi-bezel is that the stone is not going to be cut for fantastic light return to begin with, and the bezel style will prevent extra light from entering through the sides/upper girdle facets that would help make the stone look brighter and more lively.

Yssie, thanks, I hadn't thought of that. I definitely don't want a thick full bezel. Could it end up looking kind of dull? The OMCs I see here in bezels (the recent jbEG adn Uppy's three stone for example) seem bright but I don't know what the cut of this stone is. I definitely don't want to take away the stone's livelyness.

Any bezeled old stone owners out there with their experiences with this?

I'm also interested (and have seen on) in these settings, as well, which may be a better bet in terms of light if thats a serious concern.

Boreray.png

sholdt_pearlmans.jpg

durnellthreestone.jpg
 

VapidLapid

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Feb 18, 2010
Messages
4,272
I would think you can bezel no problem. given the RI of diamond and the total internal reflection, the light paths for the marginal rays that might enter from the sides or back would exit from the front too obliquely to be seen often. Unless your finger actually emits light, in which case you dont need a ring at all!
The setting styles you described and that setting you showed are quite disparate. Im having a hard time imagining them combined.
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
27,298
VapidLapid|1292299590|2796289 said:
I would think you can bezel no problem. given the RI of diamond and the total internal reflection, the light paths for the marginal rays that might enter from the sides or back would exit from the front too obliquely to be seen often. Unless your finger actually emits light, in which case you dont need a ring at all!
The setting styles you described and that setting you showed are quite disparate. Im having a hard time imagining them combined.

VL it has been established that an overly deep stone will benefit considerably and visibly from an open pavilion - the same steep pavilion (and steeper lgf) angle that causes so many internal reflections to strike the pav diamond/air bound at angles smaller than CritA provides an ideal landscape for a high-energy primary refraction through the pavilion to reflect more steeply than CA - meaning, internally, and eventually to be refracted out through the table & crown (for ref. CA[stone] ~1/RI(2.42) ~25deg from the normal)


ETA: I agree that the latter few styles posted are *very* modern - I think merging the styles will create a very unique look, whether or not you like that look - and think you will continue to like it for years to come - is something only you can answer!
 

pixies

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Messages
355
My center diamond in my three stone was prong set before it was set into a bezel. I haven't noticed any change in performance. I can't comment on the sides because they were loose beforehand. Bezels have a modern look to them but I feel they really work with antique style settings. They also offer protection which is great for older stones.
 

Novel

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 31, 2009
Messages
1,199
VapidLapid|1292299590|2796289 said:
I would think you can bezel no problem. given the RI of diamond and the total internal reflection, the light paths for the marginal rays that might enter from the sides or back would exit from the front too obliquely to be seen often. Unless your finger actually emits light, in which case you dont need a ring at all!
The setting styles you described and that setting you showed are quite disparate. Im having a hard time imagining them combined.

I glow, VapidLapid, I glow.

Yeah, the disparity of the settings is worrying me too, frankly. I had really liked the Maevona setting (half bezel, one prong) and then tried on something like the Durnell (three stone) yesterday and was taken by its beauty. I had liked the simplicity of the semi bezel, but didn't find it beautiful, and so was trying to take the fluidity of it and combine the lovely detailing of the Durnell. And I'm not sure that works...
 

Novel

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 31, 2009
Messages
1,199
Yssie|1292301010|2796300 said:
VapidLapid|1292299590|2796289 said:
I would think you can bezel no problem. given the RI of diamond and the total internal reflection, the light paths for the marginal rays that might enter from the sides or back would exit from the front too obliquely to be seen often. Unless your finger actually emits light, in which case you dont need a ring at all!
The setting styles you described and that setting you showed are quite disparate. Im having a hard time imagining them combined.

VL it has been established that an overly deep stone will benefit considerably and visibly from an open pavilion - the same steep pavilion (and steeper lgf) angle that causes so many internal reflections to strike the pav diamond/air bound at angles smaller than CritA provides an ideal landscape for a high-energy primary refraction through the pavilion to reflect more steeply than CA - meaning, internally, and eventually to be refracted out through the table & crown (for ref. CA[stone] ~1/RI(2.42) ~25deg from the normal)


ETA: I agree that the latter few styles posted are *very* modern - I think merging the styles will create a very unique look, whether or not you like that look - and think you will continue to like it for years to come - is something only you can answer!

Yssie, this is why I come over here. I learn so much trying to decipher that paragraph to VL!

I love the very modern and feel like its timeless, but its the merging I worry about. And you're right, I need to figure that out for me.

pixies|1292302611|2796318 said:
My center diamond in my three stone was prong set before it was set into a bezel. I haven't noticed any change in performance. I can't comment on the sides because they were loose beforehand. Bezels have a modern look to them but I feel they really work with antique style settings. They also offer protection which is great for older stones.

Pixies, thanks for the input about the performance of your diamond. I love your ring! I'll have to talk to Greenlake and make sure the styling of the semi-bezel is vintage if I go forward this way. Their quote was so reasonable that its even harder to turn down.
 

geckodani

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2008
Messages
9,021
I think the twisp Scholdt setting is GORGEOUS, and while it's kinda modern, it's got that milgrain going for it too. It's not a full half bezel either, so it might not have the problems being attributed to bezeling a stone with an unknown cut.
 

Novel

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 31, 2009
Messages
1,199
geckodani|1292337475|2796486 said:
I think the twisp Scholdt setting is GORGEOUS, and while it's kinda modern, it's got that milgrain going for it too. It's not a full half bezel either, so it might not have the problems being attributed to bezeling a stone with an unknown cut.

I went back to see it again today (brought BF along) and it is really delicate and lovely. Its probably the front runner right now. I asked Greenlake to do a sketch of the possible custom design, so I can see if it looks all mashed up.

Thanks for the input and help!
 
Be a part of the community Get 3 HCA Results
Top