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Light performance considerations in setting design. (some technical concerns)

Venzen007

Shiny_Rock
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Dec 22, 2008
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As I'm looking over the myriad of setting design elements, from the basket, to the prong types, to the possibility of various bezels, I'm find myself wondering how the placement of metal will affect the face-up appearance of the stone in terms of its light performance and internal patterning, and on an asscher, particularly.

Some light, no doubt, comes in through the steps on the crown and is reflected back out to the viewer. I'd imagine, then, as metal is placed over various sections of those areas which would normally receive light, that light-receiving area will be reduced by some number of square micrometers as a function of the amount and placement of the metal.

Other than that (maybe imperceptible) reduction in light quantity, is there any consideration for whether any aspect of the setting design could be picked up by the diamond's virtual facets so that it's internal patterning is altered in a discernible way? In the case of an asscher, for example, would prong placement (e.g. over the clips vs. the longer edges) alter the appearance of the diamond's internal patterning? Would prong shape (e.g. talon, ball, partial bezel) potentially have an effect on the same?

Next, is it just from the girdle up that needs to be considered? I imagine that the pavilion facets are not meant to "receive" light and send it out through the crown and table. Is that a correct understanding? Is there less to consider, then, in terms of how the stone is covered by the setting design below the girdle? If less to consider, is there still some consideration to allow the pavilion some direct light, and why, or what effect would blocking more of the pavilion from direct light have versus leaving much of the pavilion section exposed to direct light?

What do you think, @Karl_K, @diagem ,@Garry H (Cut Nut), and anyone else who may has this sort of technical understanding? Before I start considering design elements, I want to be sure I'm as solid as I can be on these things.
 
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I would say that between a full bezel and the loose stone, there is some difference (whatever less bright virtual facets at some tilt, appear darker in a bezel - this does not necessarily detract inasmuch contrast is good), the options inbetween (varieties of prongs) are not substantially different.

Tradition is worth following in these things, methinks it tends to prove itself,

2p
 
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in a pendant leave it open as possible in my opinion.
Simple basket setting.
If your still thinking windmill up and down, put the prongs on the flats in a standard basket settling would be my suggestion.
The setting size would be the dimensions on the report for that use case.
For putting the prongs on the windmills a larger setting is needed.
Stuller makes some for not a lot of money that a good bench can claen up for not a lot of money.
 
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in a pendant leave it open as possible in my opinion.
Simple basket setting.
If your still thinking windmill up and down, put the prongs on the flats in a standard basket settling would be my suggestion.
The setting size would be the dimensions on the report for that use case.
For putting the prongs on the windmills a larger setting is needed.
Stuller makes some for not a lot of money that a good bench can claen up for not a lot of money.

+1!! OPEN!!!
 
If you choose from the designers I suggested I am confident in reassuring you that they will not allow any design to cause any obstruction of light that would negatively affect the beauty of your diamond. That’s the benefit of working with these artisans. You don’t need to worry about this stuff. Of course you should voice any concerns you may have but they will automatically NOT allow this to happen. If anything at all, they care MORE about the beauty and perfection of their work than you do as this isn’t a direct reflection of their work and aesthetic.
 
@LLJsmom , that's good to know. I ask mainly because I'm considering designing it to some extent, and I want to be sure what I came up with wouldn't violate any setting rules or handicap the potential or alter the appearance of the stone because of something I do out of ignorance. But, like you said, I'm sure these places would counsel me accordingly if I sent them ideas that wouldn't work well.

I spent entirely too long today at the office creating an approximate 3D drawing of the stone in some software I use for an entirely different purpose, so I can mess with design possibilities. Having said that, I'm realizing I should really leave this to people who know exactly what they're doing lest I waste days fumbling around like an idiot. Lol.
 
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...put the prongs on the flats...

The flats are the main lengths, right? Is this suggestion to prevent any inference with lighting or patterning in the windmills or for some other reason?
 
I think it makes more difference in badly cut stones and some darker coloured stones, if you put some stones in a bezel it reduces the amount of light that can enter at the sides which in some stones impacts the overall performance of the stone and can darken them in the case of coloured stones. If you have something like a coloured diamond bezels can enhance the colour by darkening it.

A well placed bezel in diamonds can actually visually make a greater contrast of the cut pattern so you could see the on/off flash of the steps or windmills as you describe them, a lot more pronounced in an asscher set in something like a bezel.

People like CVB and Victor Canera make some beautiful 1920s inspired things in bezels so I wouldn't discount them if you start with a well cut stone. Really it comes down to personal preference, I agree with the other posters just mention your concerns to whomever you get to design the pendant.
 
The flats are the main lengths, right? Is this suggestion to prevent any inference with lighting or patterning in the windmills or for some other reason?
yes
no just looks better in my opinion.
 
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