Latest Tiffany Inspired Platinum Setting

[mrs-b]

This one is very nice. It's 1.54 I VS2.

https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/...1.541-i-vs2-round-diamond-ags-bl-104067973007

I like a diamond to be above 'lowest acceptable specs', and I normally look either to improve clarity or color by one grade. So - either 1 VS2 or H SI1 would be my lowest acceptable grades - the reason being - it's a tiny touch of luxury on what is, ostensibly, a purely luxury item.

This stone has strong blue fluoro, so this might help the I color somewhat.

However - I would probably go with *this* stone from WhiteFlash:

https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut-loose-diamond-3202009.htm

It's an expert selection and if I could choose between H SI1 or I VS2 (and I've owned both) I'd take the H SI1 every day of the week and twice on Sunday! I can see tint in most I colored stones, so an H sits far better for me. This is also only a few hundred above your stated budget, so it should be a wonderful fit for you.

 

[rockysalamander]

What does your gf do for work? For hobbies?

 

[HappyNewLife]

Now that I have an "I" color ACA, I would always advise towards an ACA over another non-superideal diamond. They can set that diamond for you in three weeks and you will have the best glitterbomb diamond for Christmas for your GF. The JA diamond looks nice, but for me there would be too many unknowns. With WFs upgrade policy, you could bump the diamond up in size just a little in the future and probably keep using the same U113.

Also, if you want to save $, the WF knife-edge solitaire is VERY pretty. I just received it. I did some modifications to make it a softer knife-edge and to put delicate claw prongs. Even with modifications it was several $100 cheaper than the Vatche (though there is no upgrade policy for my setting- which is fine).

 

[rockysalamander]

It will be a very substantial size. Here are a few pics (not me).

2.09c size 3.5

1.52 c, size

1.85 size 3.5

2 ct. Size 3.

 

[Jays0n]

What does your gf do for work? For hobbies?

She works as a nurse, her colleagues all wear rings like this to work (surprisingly) as her area is pretty relaxed about it. We have discussed a few times re different designs and she is dead set on only having a tiffany style solitaire (makes my job easier !). If it catches on patients and gloves etc I think she will either not wear it, or we will get her a plain band to wear while at work.

Hobbies - we have young kids so most of the time spent running around after them, plus usual gym and family outings.

I was wondering whether to get a solitaire but request the basket be mounted slightly lower than usual, not by much but say VERY slightly less prominent than normal. It might reduce catching on things and make it more comfortable for her (given I feel the rock size is quite large for her small fingers?). BUT I feel I am heading down a path of customising things and making design decisions I am not qualified to do so! So maybe I should just keep it as standard height because the whole point of a solitaire like this is that it shows off the stone in the way that it does ?

We are most likely going to remain engaged for 12-18 months+ before getting married, so another thing on my mind is a knife edge band I have read sometimes can be uncomfortable if its sitting on the finger on its own without a wedding band. Don't know if it is a myth or not.

It will be a very substantial size.

Yes you are right! I went to a store and had a sales rep size 4 try on a 1.5 and 1.7 ct and thought the 1.7 looked huge. I just hope it is not too big that it is uncomfortable or catches on everything, hitting it as she is always using her hands.

The JA diamond looks nice, but for me there would be too many unknowns. With WFs upgrade policy, you could bump the diamond up in size just a little in the future and probably keep using the same U113.

Yes these are both very good points. If I muck up my choice on diamond, then at least I have an upgrade policy to fall back on, ! or in the future if we do want to upgrade... While JA is extremely well known, I am surprised when they told me that they can't get any info on the stone I was interested in until I have ordered it. Maybe the IS image and grading report should be all that is needed and I am over the top though.

 

[HappyNewLife]

my last diamond was set too low, I felt like the setting made my diamond look smaller than it was. I found that "medium" height (which is the U113's standard height as well) is my sweet spot. I don't have a job that involves gloves though

 

[Jays0n]

Sorry..for the long post !

James Allen have said they can customise their setting: ( HERE ) to create a uniform width of 2mm.

I asked about softening the knife edge and they said it is already quite a bit softer than traditional knife edge. I find it hard to tell from the photos as they don't have a direct top-down or side-on angle of it.

Vatche - the U113 is tapered 2.2mm at the top and 2mm on the bottom. They can customise it to 2.2mm at the top and 1.7mm on the bottom- I don't know the benefits of this? In general is it just style/design look or comfort and wearing reasons? Are these measurements talking about the shank width or depth? Which would be better out of the two, vs a straight 2mm shank (not tapered)?

Vatche is quite interesting! I contacted them directly as I was trying to coordinate whether they could accept the loose diamond from JA and build it into the U113.

They advised they've never had a request to lower the basket because it is meant to hold attention to the centre stone. However they were happy to set the diamond a slight lower on the basket so that its not too high.

They said rather than buying a diamond from JA, I could buy it direct from them and that they have access to stones and think they are cheaper as I am buying direct from manufaturer etc.

It is appealing to have Vatche be the only one to deal with - but I also am concerned that I lose benefits like 100% money back guarantees and upgrade policies compared to Whiteflash.

Whiteflash - Their GIA certified sales rep analysed that 1.578 stone I have on hold (LINK), compared to the other one also suggested here (LINK)- surprised that the other one is not eye clean given it is in their in-house collection.

"The 1.516ct H SI1 is not eye clean and provides a lower level of cut precision. I would suggest staying with the 1.578ct I SI1.

The inclusions do not impact performance, transparency or durability. They are simply identifying characteristics visible with 10x magnification. I was not able to see the inclusions from as close as I could focus from the top or side."

@rockysalamander - you originally flagged that this centre inclusion on the 1.578ct (LINK) was bothersome to you... with assurances that it is eye clean (also I questioned whether the cloud inclusion causes a hazy appearance and assured it doesn't), would you say this is the best choice?

I was going to go with 90 plat/10 iridium, the only issue this causes is it becomes 'custom' and then if there is issues like I am not satisfied and wanted to return the ring, I forfeit the cost (e.g. ~$1800) as it is no longer covered under the 30 day. Would this be better to stick with 95/5 or continue with the 90/10 as it will be more durable. I don't expect any issues needing to return the whole thing..but I guess you never know.

All up, under this WF option I am looking at $12,850.

Locally in Australia - to further throw a spanner in the works, I have enquired with two main diamond wholesaler/retailer style companies in Australia. Pricing actually seems sharper than the US once taking taxes etc into account. I am travelling overseas soon have potential to get back 10% tax paid from a local purchase...whereas for an imported ring from USA, I can't do this. So that is a potential $1000 saving on taxes and $1000 on cheaper settings.

Jogia Diamonds is the largest one in AU, and there are some quite good reviews on the internet. Their setting seems similar to Tiffany although not as good as the Vatche. (LINK) They manufacture in house too. The setting is about half the price of the Vatche (US$900). They have a 1.58 H VS1 Medium fluoro, Table 58%, Depth 61.1%, Ideal cut for US$10,900, so I can potentially save about $1000. Report image

The other diamond wholesaler here has 2 rocks in stock which I asked for reports on- this one is local to me so I can go and see them, (despite not knowing exactly what I'm looking for/at). They can also import from a huge range. They will CAD design or adapt their tiffany style setting to suit my needs.

1.51 H VS2 XXX medium fluoro: $10,200
1.61 H SI1 XXX medium fluoro: $10,800 (unknown if eye clean yet).

The more I look into this the more confused I get as to which way to go.

 

[Mondayschild]

It sounds like you need to make a decision quickly which is stressful!

You are looking at 2 diamonds- 1 is "in house" at WF so that would speed things up re setting and production.

The stats and IS from the JA stone look good though.

If she has a ring size of 3.5, either 1.5 or 1.7 will look substantial - especially as you are looking at well-cut stones.

I don't know what to suggest. I have a stone with medium blue fluro (J color) and it is incredibly white (set in platinum). It is from BGD so they are "vetted" in terms of the fluoro enhancing the stone.

Having fluro in the stone lowers the cost but doesn't necessarily mean it affects the stone's appearance negatively - but most people would feel more comfortable with the stone being evaluated before purchasing.

If it were me, and I was not so worried re the upgrade, I would take a risk on the JA stone.

However WF have the setting you want & will meet your time deadline.

What do you think is the most important thing for her? As a nurse she will have to put gloves on & off all day. Im a doctor (less frequent gloves on & off) but i had my engagement ring made low-set due to the daily practical tasks. Some prefer not to wear their precious jewelery on a ward (technically... good infection control practices mean wearing any rings not ideal anyway).

 

[Bron357]

I’d go with the 1.73 diamond. I rock a “4.25 plus 1.5 sides” and haven’t been mugged yet (20 plus years here in Sydney). In fact, I think a lot of people assume it’s fake! Diamond shrinkage syndrome is a very well known things so bigger is best in my book!.

 

[Jays0n]

Oh my gosh...I just bought THE rock!

1.64ct VS2 G Strong Fluorescence GIA Excellent
Can someone check the report/specs

https://www.gia.edu/report-check?reportno=6272120201
Photo
Video

I bought it locally in Australia (the stone is in India apparently). The jeweller rang the vendor who confirmed that it is 100% eye clean and that the fluorescence does not create a milky appearance or cause any issues. I had to act immediately to buy this stone as they don't put it on hold or offer deposits etc...so I just pray I have done well and made a good purchase... The local jeweller was there with the store owner etc and they both thought this stone was amazing especially given that the table is completely clear of inclusions. They called it a 'cookie' - which I asked what does that mean and I think its something they must use in the industry to describe when they come across something special (??). It's a new diamond e.g. the GIA was only done a month ago. They were so confident in it that they said they will buy it and if I don't like it, they will refund me and would be able to sell it in the store to someone else within a week.

Price, USD$12,500, but I will actually end up paying US$11380 as I get 10% tax refunded due to an Australian loop hole!

I'm relieved to have finally pulled the trigger. Now I am trying to get them to custom make the setting similar to the Vatche U113. Should I go with 95/5 plat or 90/10 plat/iridium?? Does anyone know if the Vatche U113 is a knife edge or how to best describe it, it is not clear from the pictures...!

 

[Jays0n]

Also, I was reading that strong fluorescence should be avoided because it can stop sparkle etc- is this true or given the vendor confirmed on the phone...it will be a non issue with this stone? I did the hca tool calc and it ended up borderline excellent but close to very good so now I'm worried

 

[SimoneDi]

From all the amazing suggestions that you got...

The stone that you purchased does not have complimentary angles, it is deeper than ideal and very strong fluorescence is something that needs to be examined. The age of the certification is no indication of how amazing, or well-cut, or desirable the stone is. The stone that you bought is not one that most PSers will advice you to spend $12k on.

Thay said, if you love it - great! I hope that your fiancé-to-be enjoys is forever.

 

[Jays0n]

The stone that you purchased does not have complimentary angles, it is deeper than ideal and very strong fluorescence is something that needs to be examined.

Thanks for the reply, this is one of the things I feared having to make an immediate decision but put faith in the jewellery company I was working with who genuinely had no bias towards which stone to pick but wanted to help me achieve my brief (which I ended up deciding my brief would be 1.6-1.7ct, vs2, faint/medium fluro (ended up with strong tho), US$12k).

Even though I've locked in this stone I do want to hear truthful feedback and advice on it because the store has given me the ability to refund it/pick another one if I'm not happy, so anyone can feel free to comment in either a negative or positive way.

Based on the angles of this stone I've bought, do you think there is going to be light leakage and its not going to have that really amazing cut to it compared to something like a WF Cut Above/H&A? When the stone arrives what should I be looking for when examining it?

There was assurances made that the fluorescence didn't have a negative effect on this particular stone. I guess strong is not ideal and maybe should have stuck to no more than medium though from a future value/risk perspective

Is there any issues with this stone having some feature inclusions towards the edge ?

Have I got this right:
This stone from a color and clarity point of view is good because it's G as opposed to I and the clarity is good because the table is clear and there is very minimal inclusions?

However for the angles and cut it is not 100% what some on PS would look for? That it won't sparkle and seem as brilliant as it otherwise could?

 

[Mondayschild]

@Jays0n - i do hope that there is a chance for you to have a look at the diamond and evaluate it yourself - I dont think anyone on the forum can add much more than has already been said.

There are lots and lots of threads that discuss buying online.

Sometimes you might hear about HCA score being used, this is a way of sort of "vetting" a diamond when you don't have other information (eg idealscope image)

More info here - https://www.pricescope.com/tools/hca

Your stone isn't in the hca range that is most often recommended - but that doesn't mean that you cant like it/keep it.

 

[Jays0n]

look at the diamond and evaluate it yourself

There definitely is, and the store is so confident in it that they guaranteed if I don't like it, they will take it into their own stock and I can choose a different stone, something they don't normally do but the manager was so confident it was the right stone meeting budget/brief/ etc that he gave me this undertaking.

Question is, when it does arrive in store, what should I be looking for? Should I simply be holding it up and reflecting light off it to see if it sparkles enough? Should I ask for Idealscope images of it and post them here for further review?

The HCA rating is 3.7. I should have researched this aspect more and known to plug the figures in before making a decision.

Pricing wise, have I gotten bang for buck by getting the G and VS2 spec for this price? I can't seem to find many G or H VS2 diamonds between 1.6-1.7 which are close to this price point of $12k. Or should I have stuck with my original up to I color and VS2 or SI1 eye clean to gain a top of the range cut?

 

[rockysalamander]

If the store does not have a ASET scope, and I recall maybe you said that was the case, I would buy your own ASET and take images to post here. You'll have to do a bit of reading about how to take a photo with a cell phone through the lens. A bit tricky, but works well enough.

This ASET will reveal if the stone is leaking light or not.
https://datlas.com/ideal-scope-store/aset-kit/

While the diamond is a GIAXXX, the 36 crown angle does not pair will with the 40.8 pavilion angle. 40.6 would shift this from HCA of 4.6 to 1.9. So, tiny differences can make a large difference. Nevertheless, I personally prefer a crown angle closer to 34.5.

You'll want to look at the diamond in natural, indirect light. Get it away from the lights in the jewelry store where they are meant to make all diamonds look good. You are looking for edge to edge brightness with no grey within the table. The arrows should all be visible at the right angle (i.e., you don't lose an arrow).

In terms of value, if the diamond has good performance than you met your brief. Score 1. If it does not have good performance, then no, not a good value to me. I'm not sure we can tell you what you want to hear. You threw the dice and have to wait to see if it pays off. It might or might not. They did you no favor is guaranteeing you can swap the stone, as they get a sale no matter what. If you don't like this stone, I would go back to basics and select a stone within our recommended parameters and HCA less than 2.0.

Something like this is more my personal cup of diamonds at your budget. Tiny table. 34.5 crown angle. Lovely IS. AGS0.
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...rat-i-color-vs2-clarity-ideal-cut-sku-3240189

 

[mochiko42]

Please also note that the fluorescence not only brings down the resale value (which could be justified by the lower price you're paying for the stone), it also decreases the ease with which you will be able to resell it should the need/desire arise at a later date (due to less demand for stones with Sbf. Also SBF will not help a G stone, though it might make a warmer stone appear whiter). I'd only consider a sbf stone if it came with a good buyback and/or upgrade policy (not just a return policy).

 

[Jays0n]

I have asked the store whether they have idealscope and ASET. If they just have Idealscope will that suffice? Will see what they say.

Gosh I feel like I've messed up buying this then and there without taking the specs and vetting them here I should have taken all the details and then left it overnight and taken the risk that the stone was sold rather than risking buying something lower quality than I otherwise should have.

should I try to cancel the order and keep looking or is there a chance that even with the HCA score that once idealscope images could confirm the stone is in fact an excellent cut and highly acceptable/desirable? I am concerned when it comes in that the store will be bias and saying that I am unreasonable or picking on the sparkle without justification. For an uneducated person like myself, am I even going to be able to notice the difference between a top H&A cut vs a borderline excellent->very good?

Should I see if I can coordinate bringing an independent appraiser to view the stone with me?

They did say they would give me a refund rather than just a swap if I'm not 100% satisfied.

Of all the four C's cut is most important - so I would probably have been 100x better getting the 1.578 I SI1 hearts and arrow cut above from whiteflash ? Than taking this stone. It's the biggest purchase of my life so I want to be 200% sure I end up with the best. What good is a G color if it doesn't sparkle and light up??

 

[rockysalamander]

Don't be too hard on yourself. You are still 200% more educated than most diamond buyers. You'll just have to wait and see. If they have an Idealscope, that is better than no scope. But, don't let them bully you into liking the stone. This is way too much money to compromise. If they offered you a full refund, what is the risk (other than some time)? You can walk in, look at it, make a decision, and say "nope, I want my money back" or "wrap it up" ...if they stand by their word.

Also -- you can't compare a typical GIAXXX to a super-ideal like WF. Yes, WF would have been a sure thing. But, you did not find what you wanted in budget. The AGS0 I posted from JA would be another option that is more of a sure thing, in budget and within specs with a good IS. But, you have this diamond on the way. So, put the JA stone on hold and have a look at the one you have coming.

What your eyes should look for...The only time a well-cut round diamond should look "bad" is in direct bright light. So, look at the diamond you selected in indirect outdoor light, fluorescent light (often found in bathrooms)...try to not only look at it under LED lights. Look in bright outdoor light and see if the fluorescence bothers you (I happen to love it). The stone will look grey in bright light, no worries, you are looking at flour in direct bright light. Have them show you other diamonds in the same size range and see if you can see differences between them in similar lighting. Don't just look at them sitting on a solid background. Have them put the diamond on the back of your hand and move it (them) around.

What most people notice about their non-ideal diamonds is that there are a lot of times they are grey under the table or lack sparkle. The stone may look dirty or dusty. When actually dirty, the stone absolutely dies. So, after keeping your fingers off the table of the diamond, do one last test. Stick you finger right on the table of the diamond to make it smeary. Does the stone still have life or look dead?

Will your GF notice or, more importantly, be bothered by it...you know her and her attention to details. I find stone flaws become more apparent (and unfortunately bothersome) over time, not less.

 

[Jays0n]

They have confirmed that they have an idealscope, they haven't taken photos of the idealscope image with it, but I am thinking 200% I need to view the Idealscope, take a photo of it and post it on here for advice.

I will also follow all of your detailed advice (thanks everyone!) and @rockysalamander re viewing/analysing the stone.

From there I need to make a decision whether to stick with the stone I have or re-start the search. My worry is that time is fast running out if I am needing this ring in my hand by Christmas... although Whiteflash etc seemed to think 3 weeks would suffice.

You can walk in, look at it, make a decision, and say "nope, I want my money back" or "wrap it up" ...if they stand by their word.

Absolutely, this is so true. I can just imagine though this jeweller was so confident yesterday saying he has 30 years experience, etc etc - that he will think I have rocks in my head if I reject the stone and ask for a refund - but its something I am going to have to go through if it is not 100% right. Interestingly, when I first told him I was looking at I color, he did admit he was a 'color snob' and prefers better color, so to me it seems he places more value on color than cut. But from what I have read here, cut should be #1.

I went back to WF and asked them about another in house diamond, its cut looks good but the idealscope I thought shows a bit of leakage, not sure exactly - I asked if eye clean and waiting to hear back: https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut-loose-diamond-3770029.htm - If I am comparing apples with apples price wise between US and AUS prices, I would be comparing the current selected stone of 1.64ct VS2 G Strong Fluro with something like a 1.477ct SI1 I WF In store stock. Shame it is below 1.5ct mark, but sacrifices need to be made somewhere

My biggest challenge in this whole search is I have not been comparing apples with apples, overseas vs local same budget/parameters. Right now as it stands I would need the stone to be no more than US$10k to match the diamond end price I have already selected, given the setting from US is dearer and tax issues etc.

 

[Jays0n]

So the store came back to me and said they don't have ASET or Idealscope, they said they have a tool which can view 'hearts and arrows' but it is not red lighting. They also said the vendor my diamond is from never provides IS or ASET images. Does anyone know what this tool is they mention and will it be able to identify light leakage? They have never taken a photo through the tool to provide to someone.

I find it worrying that one of the top 2 diamond companies in australia who apparently import $1 billion worth of diamonds don't even have an in-house idealscope or ASET which seems to cost $100? I hope this doesn't mean alarm bells ringing. Anyway she is going to double check with the boss and get back to me further.

 

[rockysalamander]

Hearts and arrows virwer can be redbor blue light, but ONLY show symmetry. You need an ideals scope or aset or good eyes to detect leakage. Take good photos, video in all light and post here.

 

[foxinsox]

So the store came back to me and said they don't have ASET or Idealscope, they said they have a tool which can view 'hearts and arrows' but it is not red lighting. They also said the vendor my diamond is from never provides IS or ASET images. Does anyone know what this tool is they mention and will it be able to identify light leakage? They have never taken a photo through the tool to provide to someone.

I find it worrying that one of the top 2 diamond companies in australia who apparently import $1 billion worth of diamonds don't even have an in-house idealscope or ASET which seems to cost $100? I hope this doesn't mean alarm bells ringing. Anyway she is going to double check with the boss and get back to me further.

To me it suggests they’re not the right vendors if you’re focused on prioritising light return over colour and clarity. Despite the point of diamonds being to sparkle, most diamond vendors in NZ and I assume Australia from what I’ve seen, seem to focus on colour then clarity and assume cut is covered by GIA XXX and that’s good enough. I wouldn’t buy locally unless they can get you specific diamonds that you find in virtual inventory that meet your parameters.

 

[mrs-b]

Jays0n -

For what it's worth - I'll bet it's just fine.

For my own diamonds, those stats are not precisely what I'd choose - but i've been learning about diamonds, buying diamonds, and tweaking, refining, upgrading and improving my diamonds for 30 years. Altho not 100% ideal, it looks like you've chosen a very nice stone which I suspect will look lovely. It's not in the super-ideal category. But will your fiancee be able to tell the difference? Will you? I suspect not. And I'm also guessing it will be about 5 zillion times nicer than most of the diamonds your girl's friends have. So take a deep breath and relax.

My ONLY concern is not the crown angle - it's the fluorescence. Strong fluoro can look *quite* milky! But then again - often it doesn't. I once had an E colored stone with v. strong fluoro, and it was AWESOME! And I've seen others that weren't so cool. Just take a look at it, see what you think, don't second guess yourself, and if you like it - great!

If you have a good rapport with your jeweler and they said it has no impact on the stone, I'd try to relax about it; your stone is white, large, and clean - so yay you! You're already about 5 steps ahead of what most people buy.

By the way, I'm Australian, so I know where you're coming from and I know what's common there. The diamond you've bought it well ahead of the game unless the fluoro is a big issue.

Try to enjoy!

ETA Aset and idealscopes are largely unheard of in Australia - and in a great deal of the world, in fact. This is not a sign of incompetence.

ETA x 2 Just took a good long look at the video - lots of nice, clean arrows in your stone. We're all on a budget and we can't have everything. I think you ticked a lot of the boxes and have probably bought a nicer stone than your girl dreamed of. Do try to remember - on PS we tend to live and die by percentage angles - but when it comes to OLD CUTS - we seem willing to throw everything like that out the window. We can't have it both ways - either the stats matter or they don't. I think you got a lot of the necessary stuff right - and I quite like a high crown angle - so it looks fine by me. It's also a good price - and that's your one 'intractable'! Check the fluoro - that's your main issue - but don't lose all faith in your jeweler just because they said it *wasn't* a problem! It may well actually be FINE! So far so good!

 

[Jays0n]

But will your fiancee be able to tell the difference? Will you? I suspect not

So true. I was wondering that. E.g. if this diamond I chose has 10% light leakage, vs a perfect cut, would me, or fiancee or others actually be able to tell? I suspect not too, unless we are getting out magnifying glasses.

One thing I thought of is trying to find someone in Sydney with an IS or ASET, or even a lot of knowledge in diamonds who is independent to this store to come with me when viewing the stone. I suspect they will be putting the pressure on and act like I am carrying on if I reject the stone and potentially say that I am unreasonable -> hopefully not, but you never know. Even if I had to pay an independent jeweller (?) - if you have any ideas ...where in AU are you

The other idea I had was should I buy an IS or ASET now and try and get it shipped to me before the diamond arrives so I can take that with me. It's another $ investment... or do I just check it with my (uneducated eye) and if it looks good, sparkles enough..hope for the best?

Funnily enough, even though the Idealscope was invented in Australia, I can't seem to find where to buy one within the country!

If you have a good rapport with your jeweler and they said it has no impact on the stone, I'd try to relax about it

Yep, the jeweller genuinely has no bias to which stone I bought...I believe...he thoroughly questioned the vendor about the fluorescence and made him take it outside etc and call him back to confirm, so I think on the fluorescence topic, it will be fine for this stone. My top concern is the cut and light leakage.

 

[SimoneDi]

Here is a link to purchase an ASET: https://ideal-scope.com/product/beginner-scope/

I believe that this one ships from Australia. At the bottom of the page is the Australian address. Good luck!

 

[Jays0n]

most diamond vendors in NZ and I assume Australia from what I’ve seen, seem to focus on colour then clarity and assume cut is covered by GIA XXX and that’s good enough.

I think you are bang on the money here. I brought up with this jeweller that just because a stone is XXX doesn't mean it's perfect - and mentioned a site like Beyond the 4Cs etc. They definitely gravitate towards color and clarity being the most important aspects now that I have reviewed their behavior/feedback on how the transaction and search went.

Hearts and arrows virwer can be redbor blue light, but ONLY show symmetry. You need an ideals scope or aset or good eyes to detect leakage. Take good photos, video in all light and post here.

Ok, that's good to know - will do !

look at the diamond you selected in indirect outdoor light

Do you mean take it outdoors, on a sunny day out in the sun, but not with the sun directly shining from above(?) and view it from like 12 inches or something and rotate it to see the sparkle etc. Just not sure what exactly indirect light means.

Thanks everyone for your help!

 

[shampoolady]

You've gotten a lot of really great feedback. Just dropping in to offer two thoughts:

I recently upgraded and my new stone is set in a Vatche U113. I absolutely adore it. I wanted an exact Tiffany replica, which of course is not possible, but I have come to love the U113 even more than the original. It's very close, but there are some subtle differences I quite prefer. I am 100% happy with it and would recommend it to a friend. Mine was custom made for my stone by Vatche and took 3 weeks. However, WF had it in stock and said they could set my stone in 2 weeks. This was in September.

To answer your question, yes the U113 had a knife edge.

My other comment is about cut and diminishing returns. You asked if someone will really see a difference between an ideal vs very well (but not ideal) cut stone. The folks here on PS would, but "normal" people probably not.

The stone I just replaced was quite nicely cut, but not in ideal territory. It's replacement is. Side by side I can see a subtle difference; the ideal is a little brighter and there's a little more fire. But it's subtle, and my old non-ideal stone remains beautiful to my picky eye.

Numbers aren't everything. If the stone looks beautiful to you and you believe is a good value that's your answer.

Here you can see the subtle difference in light return. The smaller stone is F/VS2; don't have all the numbers so can't calculate the HCA but it's a 60/60 stone. The larger is super ideal range and HCA 0.9. It looks a little brighter, and has a little more fire. Would a normal person notice? No, I don't think so. The non-ideal stone is still a very beautiful diamond.



Here are some photos of my U113:

 

[Jays0n]

The stone I just replaced was quite nicely cut, but not in ideal territory

Thanks very much for the post and photos too! Your Vatche looks a beauty! Would you say your old diamond was like a "Very Good" GIA compared to an "Excellent". I do notice a bit of difference but also could be due to the photo.

I wonder if comparing 2 x GIA Excellent cuts - one with a flawless Idealscope image vs one with cuts and angles causing light leakage, whether the difference is as noticeable or very hard to spot to an untrained eye?





On another note - I bit the bullet and bought an idealscope -> It will arrive on Monday (hopefully before my stone arrives from overseas)...so at least now I am not at the mercy of the jeweller's equipment and can go in fully prepared!

 

[shampoolady]

Thanks very much for the post and photos too! Your Vatche looks a beauty! Would you say your old diamond was like a "Very Good" GIA compared to an "Excellent". I do notice a bit of difference but also could be due to the photo."

Hard to say, but it would probably fall in GIA's second best range which is quite broad. So you can't really compare one "very good" to another "very good." Some "very goods" look pretty bad.

I'm tempted to send it to GIA for recertification to get all the angles on it.