Latest Tiffany Inspired Platinum Setting

[rockysalamander]

I think whether or not you will see a difference between two diamonds it dependent and why they are different. Two beautifully cut stone, one 60/60 and one classic "ideal" will perform differently than each other. How much a person can tell will depend on how well they discern light differences. Some see huge difference in light return, some don't.

But, comparing an PS 'ideal' stone to a 'steep deep' -- both GIA Excellent -- will show to most observers due to the greyed out center. Look at the center on the left vs. right here.
@Kelli


My point is more that the angles and cutting precision that determine why it gets graded is more relevant than the actual grade. I will note that many happily wear GIA VG that have good numbers (often spready stones). Looking in person at a tray of stones, I select with my eye first. But, online and for a novice, sticking to narrow ranges maximizes the chances of finding a great diamond by controlling for more variable within the reality of diamond/light geometry. As I may have noted before, a diamonds flaws tend to become more apparent over time.

This post by @Rockdiamond is really informative and shows several examples of cut.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/is-this-considered-deep-steep.130233/#post-2294076

 

[Jays0n]

Look at the center on the left vs. right here.

Is the left one the better cut?

The diamond has arrived and I'm going in today to view it.

I have an idealscope but I didn't buy the "ideal light" so tried it with a CZ but had great difficulty trying to get it to work. Was holding the stone with tweezers and then can't quite see the red pattern clearly, let alone no idea how I'm going to be able to take a photo of this to share - which is very important.

If anyone has any tips it would be greatly appreciated!

 

[rockysalamander]

I'd want the stone on the right. Great, crisp facets. Clear pattern. You want to see the arrows as clearly contrasting.

 

[rockysalamander]

Watch this video...the concept of how to place and view the diamond an IS and ASET are the same.
Using.

Photo.

 

[Jays0n]

This is my 'checklist' of what to look for when I view the diamond:

* Get away from bright jewelry store lights.
* Looking for edge-to-edge brightness
* No grey within the table
* Look in indirect outdoor light
* Look in fluorescent light (bathroom)
* Look in bright outdoor light - see if fluorescence bothers me. The stone will look grey in bright light regardless, due to the strong fluorescence.
* Put diamond on back of hand and move back and forth.
* Watch out for grey under the table, or lacking sparkle. Stone looking dirty/dusty when the diamond is clean. One test - smear right on the table, and then see if the stone still has life or looks dead.



* Arrows should all be visible at the right angle (e.g. don't lose an arrow) -> Symmetrical. Arrows viewed from face-up and hearts viewed from face-down.

 

[Kevsta]

Keep us updated! been following this thread..

Due to our UV rays in Aust, I read on here that the fluorescence is a bit stronger.

 

[rockysalamander]

Add - * Have them show you a few other stones of the same color. Does this stone stand out or look duller?
Edit - * Look in bright outdoor light - see if fluorescence bothers me. The stone will look grey in bright light regardless, AS ALL DIAMONDS WILL REGARDLESS OF THE CUT. YOU ARE LOOKING AT TO SEE IF THE FLOUR BOTHERS YOU.
(you an also bring a strong black light and check it out if the UV is low right now)

Keep us posted. Fingers crossed for you.

 

[Jays0n]

Photos:





Videos:

you can click to view in 1080p High Definition

(Main one)

 

[Jays0n]

I just returned from my visit to the jeweller. They have a heck of a lot of LED lights and it made it hard to get good IS images. I asked them to turn the store lights off in the end...lol - which they did, and then just was able to take the photos with daylight coming through the window, holding up a piece of A4 paper. I'm sure that it's not 100% the best method and way to do this, but tried my best to get good shots on the fly.

My observations -
1. on immediate viewing of the diamond I thought it was very sparkly, clean, bright (nb: in the bright lit jewellery store...)

2. I personally thought through the Idealscope that it looked pretty darn good (note - I am definitely no expert though). Once i got the angles right on holding the stone with the idealscope, I felt the image was really good. Have tried to pick the best images that I photographed, but photographing it with my iphone was quite hard. There is some minor glare or reflection on those IS images, I did feel that I could see a complete image of the diamond without that reflection on personal inspection but just when using the iPhone trying to get it in the right spot/focus I had difficulty.

3. shining a fluorescent torch light directly on to the diamond did not produce as big a glow as I would expect from a 'strong' fluro stone.

4. holding the stone up at the window with a minor bit of indirect sunlight coming in did cause a minor blue glow on the table to reflect - it was about 2 hours before sunset so not an ideal time, they said I can come back tomorrow to take the stone outside to sunlight.

5. when i smudged the table with my finger, I did feel that it lost quite a bit of its sparkle.

6. Looking at Rocky's photos at the top of this page, I had trouble seeing distinct black arrows from direct front on view, I didn't see a stone like in the RHS image on this top post.

7. the purple hearts & arrows photos are using a "Cupid Loupe".

Dying to hear your opinions on the cut of this stone and whether it is "up there" at the upper range of excellent, or almost equivalent to a whiteflash H&A A cut above type stone...or whether it doesn't even come close. Also would like to know whether you would buy this stone or not based on this information.

My current gut feeling is to proceed with the stone. I am slightly concerned re not being able to see 8 distinct arrows from a distance with my eyes but I did generally feel it was very sparkly, bright and clean, white color stone. Whether I can do better for my budget, is another question.

 

[Jays0n]

Another thing I thought of which worries me slightly is that my partner works in a hospital full of fluoro lighting, having a strong fluoro ring would it mean that at work the whole time her ring is going to be glowing blue very strongly and noticeably ?

Tomorrow I plan to take the diamond out of the store and out into daylight, plus also under a strong fluoro lighting environment.

 

[rockysalamander]

You need UV light to activate flour (sunlight, blacklight). The fluorescent light test was simply to see how it looks in a very common workplace lighting environ. Images look good. The finger-smudge test is the one thing that gives me pause and was what I feared with the numbers. Hang tight until another PS member can chime in on the images and video. I can't see them all. Did you even find a lighting environ where you could see all the arrows at once akin to the right hand photo above?

 

[yu_]

I think whether or not you will see a difference between two diamonds it dependent and why they are different. Two beautifully cut stone, one 60/60 and one classic "ideal" will perform differently than each other. How much a person can tell will depend on how well they discern light differences. Some see huge difference in light return, some don't.

But, comparing an PS 'ideal' stone to a 'steep deep' -- both GIA Excellent -- will show to most observers due to the greyed out center. Look at the center on the left vs. right here.
@Kelli


My point is more that the angles and cutting precision that determine why it gets graded is more relevant than the actual grade. I will note that many happily wear GIA VG that have good numbers (often spready stones). Looking in person at a tray of stones, I select with my eye first. But, online and for a novice, sticking to narrow ranges maximizes the chances of finding a great diamond by controlling for more variable within the reality of diamond/light geometry. As I may have noted before, a diamonds flaws tend to become more apparent over time.

This post by @Rockdiamond is really informative and shows several examples of cut.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/is-this-considered-deep-steep.130233/#post-2294076

Hi - totally off topic but do you know what brand the setting is?

 

[shampoolady]

On the IS it looks like there's pink under the table and more pink/white around the crown than there ought to be.

Here's an IS for comparison. You see that the table area is as red as the crown, and there's minimal white along the crown. No pink or white otherwise.



The hearts are a bit of a mess. All 8 hearts should be identical (or nearly so); the tops should be squared off, no clefts down the middle, and distinct chevrons under each. On your image the hearts are all different, some have pointy tops, deep clefts, and no discernible chevrons.

Here's one for comparison. The clefts are probably larger than ACA would allow but it demonstrates the even hearts, squared off tops, and even chevrons.