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Is this CAD accurate? Opinions please :)

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nateknu

Rough_Rock
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
20
Hello all! I have recently purchased a 1.5 ct RBC stone and I am hoping to get some opinions of an updated CAD I received.
My girlfriend wants the setting to be similar to Michael Bondanza's Sculptural Madison. I am having difficulty posting all of the images in one topic/post so first I will post 3 images displaying the look I am seeking to attain in the setting, and in the post after this one I will post the most recent CAD that was sent to me. Please let me know if you think it is accurate or what changes need to be made. As always thank you in advance! :))

example_4.jpg

example5.jpg

_9127.jpg
 
Here are the images of the CAD. The first CAD I received did not have the shoulders of the setting sculpted as much as my girlfriend liked so please refer to the "after" images below. Is it me or is it still off if you compare it to the 3 photos in the post above? Thanks again.

_9128.jpg

cad1.jpeg

_118.jpeg
 
it's off.

the originals look more concave in the shoulders. the CAD designs are convex, with a "lump" outward - both old and new.

the new design's curvature (how quickly the width changes) approximates the original more - by doing a more rapid transition of the width back to the width of the band, but it is still convex.

also, the width of CAD bands is wider than the original, proportionately comparing it to the shoulder width and diamond size. it seems also that the CAD designs have a smaller stone in them, possibly because that's what you asked them to use. you may have to ask them to proportionally decrease the back width of the band.

you would end up with a slimmer and more delicate-looking ring, but i think that preserving relative stone-to-band-to-shoulder proportions would better replicate the original ring's design and beauty.

this whole jewelry thing is relatively new to me, so i hope that i did not use any terms incorrectly. let me know if anything is not clear, and needs more elaboration.
 
I'm not actually sure that the original is concave. I think it's an artifact of the lighting the photo was taken in...a shadow on the metal. I found this image of the MB design and it doesn't appear to be concave either. There are tons of people with more experience with setting design than me though and I'm sure that some of them will chime in with their opinions of the CAD shortly

http://www.davidsonandlicht.com/engagement-rings/engagement-rings/michael-bondanza
 
Ok thanks for your help. I am curious to hear what others say as well. Thanks again!
 
The MB looks to have more fluid prongs and are in more of a soft V-shape than the CADs (which look like a big U-shape). I'm definitely not an expert on CAD images, but the Before CAD looks closer to the width of the MB setting. The After starts tapering too close to the diamond, instead of very gradually like the MB piece... The proportions are off in both, but the Before is closer to the origianl, IMO... I would change the shape of the prongs and taper from further out and continue to taper, making the bottom of the band less bulky.


That MB setting is sooooo classy, BTW! =)
 
The shadows in the pictures gives the impression of a concave in the shank but in actuality, it is slightly convex. The updated CAD looks closer to the original with a better curvature as it approaches the lower half of the shank but still appears thicker proportionately compared to the original. The taper also starts too soon.

Can I ask why you aren't going with the original MB setting?
The vendor/bench cannot do an exact copy due to copyright issues.
 
Chrono, the reason I am not going with the original MB band is because my girlfriend wanted more of a "U shape". I appreciate everyone's help!
 
Thanks again everyone. One more question would you get this setting made in platinum 950 or white gold? My girlfriend wants a high polish shine and doesn't care for patina. She is also a RN and works with her hands. Is it possible to remove patina from platinum Jen you polish it? I realize that it will require re-dipping to maintain the high polish with the white gold and that we will loose metal over time with white gold but that is okay as long as we can keep it shiny. A bit confused.
 
nateknu|1377280388|3508732 said:
Thanks again everyone. One more question would you get this setting made in platinum 950 or white gold? My girlfriend wants a high polish shine and doesn't care for patina. She is also a RN and works with her hands. Is it possible to remove patina from platinum Jen you polish it? I realize that it will require re-dipping to maintain the high polish with the white gold and that we will loose metal over time with white gold but that is okay as long as we can keep it shiny. A bit confused.
Click to expand...

Although some people swear by platinum, I think with this setting in particular, 14K white gold will give the whitest and longest lasting high polish shine. Platinum doesn't have to be plated (with rhodium) since it's a pure metal, HOWEVER, it does scratch very easily, giving a more matte appearance. My little sister has an ering very similar in design to the one you are getting (thick, bold, bright/shiny metal). She chose platinum so that she wouldn't have to have it plated... and it looked GORGEOUS -- for about a month... She is a teacher, but not hard on her jewelry... The scratches can be polished out, but you have to have it done pretty frequently (depending on the wear). Hailee said she should have it polished about every 4 to 6 weeks, but she doesn't have the time... Platinum will also patina and has a grey undertones (if not rhodium plated), while WG will be icy with blueish undertones (because of of rhodium plating). My other sister, Jade (who just so happens to be a nurse! :D ), had platinum 950 (iridium alloy) to begin with... I think she only had it polished a handful of times, because she just got tired of having to do it so much... hers also had a grayish patina after several years. She changed her setting this January and changed to white gold, and is very happy with it so far...

The reason I say 14K as opposed to 18K is due to replating as well. Since there is more gold content in the 18K, it will need replating more often than the 14K -- which will stay shiny/whiter longer. The 18K engagement ring I have needs to be replated a lot more often than any of my 14K pieces. I noticed the palm side starting to turn "dingy" within about 4 months. My 14K bands have been worn over 5 months and they look brand new! Also, I baby my rings and don't wear them to clean, go to the pool/beach, or wash my hands, and I only wear them about 5 days/week (so it's not the wear issue). The only reason I went with 18K for my ering was because of all the intricate pave work (designer said it was better to work with and that they didn't use 14K with this style ring due to brittleness). As far as losing metal, I think that's more of a concern for those with very intricate details on their rings -- such as delicate prongs, pave work, engraving, milgrain, etc... I really think choice of metal has a lot to do with the type of setting as well as color preference. With the design you chose, that shouldn't be an issue at all. :bigsmile:

I guess there is maintenance either way you look at it. I do think she would prefer white gold, simply for its color and ability to be more scratch-resistant, thus staying shiny longer. :))
 
Thank you for your wonderful explanation and recommendation. The SA at the local store we are using stated that they use 18k white gold. Is that something I should be concerned about? 18k is softer correct? What would you chose in this situation? Should I ask if they would be willing to do it in 14k somehow? :confused:
 
nateknu|1377286069|3508782 said:
Thank you for your wonderful explanation and recommendation. The SA at the local store we are using stated that they use 18k white gold. Is that something I should be concerned about? 18k is softer correct? What would you chose in this situation? Should I ask if they would be willing to do it in 14k somehow? :confused:
Click to expand...

Personally, I would have them do it in 14K for the reasons listed above. 18K has a higher percentage of gold, so it is a little softer, making it more malleable than 14K... which is why benches like to use it. For your setting, I would ask them to make it in 14K without one bit of hesitation. :halo: It should not be a problem. :))
 
OP, I will take some photos when I get home to show you the difference in 14K vs. 18K after 5 months of wear. The two thinner bands are in 14K and the ering band is in 18K. I starting wearing the bands (got married) March 15 of this year. I had my ering polished and replated 3 days prior to my wedding, so I think this is a fair comparison. Sorry, this POS work computer is acting crazy and won't let me upload photos!! I promise I'll post it tonight though. :))
 
I've heard that 18k palladium white gold does not need replating because it stays very white.
 
msop04|1377289775|3508806 said:
OP, I will take some photos when I get home to show you the difference in 14K vs. 18K after 5 months of wear. The two thinner bands are in 14K and the ering band is in 18K. I starting wearing the bands (got married) March 15 of this year. I had my ering polished and replated 3 days prior to my wedding, so I think this is a fair comparison. Sorry, this POS work computer is acting crazy and won't let me upload photos!! I promise I'll post it tonight though. :))
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You guys are so helpful! Can't wait to see! :))
 
Can a bench order the X1 alloy for casting or is it only sold as a finished stock setting?
 
Chrono|1377296733|3508871 said:
Can a bench order the X1 alloy for casting or is it only sold as a finished stock setting?
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My local jeweler uses it to make almost all of their white gold pieces, so I'm thinking it's pretty easy to obtain. :))
 
nateknu|1377293105|3508839 said:
msop04|1377289775|3508806 said:
OP, I will take some photos when I get home to show you the difference in 14K vs. 18K after 5 months of wear. The two thinner bands are in 14K and the ering band is in 18K. I starting wearing the bands (got married) March 15 of this year. I had my ering polished and replated 3 days prior to my wedding, so I think this is a fair comparison. Sorry, this POS work computer is acting crazy and won't let me upload photos!! I promise I'll post it tonight though. :))
Click to expand...

You guys are so helpful! Can't wait to see! :))
Click to expand...

Okay, so... here's the photo. (sorry they are dirty!! They look better clean -- esp. the 14K bands!)
imag0328.jpg

Hope this helps!! ;))
 
nateknu|1377127838|3507622 said:
Here are the images of the CAD. The first CAD I received did not have the shoulders of the setting sculpted as much as my girlfriend liked so please refer to the "after" images below. Is it me or is it still off if you compare it to the 3 photos in the post above? Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Just my opinion, but with these CADs and the subtle look that you are wanting, I think you need them to make you a wax. They will need to charge you and you should expect this, as some of the wax making machines take many hours to make a wax correctly. Talk with them about it.

They will expect you to return the wax when you are done with it, but your girlfriend will be able to slide it carefully on her finger to see exactly whether or not it meets her expectations and desires.

Wink
 
Wink|1377376698|3509216 said:
nateknu|1377127838|3507622 said:
Here are the images of the CAD. The first CAD I received did not have the shoulders of the setting sculpted as much as my girlfriend liked so please refer to the "after" images below. Is it me or is it still off if you compare it to the 3 photos in the post above? Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Just my opinion, but with these CADs and the subtle look that you are wanting, I think you need them to make you a wax. They will need to charge you and you should expect this, as some of the wax making machines take many hours to make a wax correctly. Talk with them about it.

They will expect you to return the wax when you are done with it, but your girlfriend will be able to slide it carefully on her finger to see exactly whether or not it meets her expectations and desires.

Wink
Click to expand...

Wink, this is a great idea...
 
Sorry for the delayed response. Thanks for posting the images the 14k bands looks so much whiter!
Also, wink thanks for the rec on the wax. It is being made and should be ready on 9/7 then we will go from there!
;)
 
nateknu|1378148202|3513628 said:
Sorry for the delayed response. Thanks for posting the images the 14k bands looks so much whiter!
Also, wink thanks for the rec on the wax. It is being made and should be ready on 9/7 then we will go from there!
;)
Click to expand...

No problem, nateknu! Can't wait to see how it looks! :))

EDIT: FWIW, I just had my 18K ering replated on Friday... it's still not as bright white as my 14K bands... **sigh** ::)
 
Hey Guys me Mark.Well Nateknu i really not conscious about diamond rings but i know great point about identification of real or poor D.Ring like in a badly cut diamond the light that goes into through the table gets to the aspects and then leaks out from the edges of the precious stone rather than showing returning to the eye.Thanks!!
 
Thanks everyone! We are going to look at the wax on Saturday. I also agree about the lack of fluidity. Maybe it will look a little more fluid in the wax version. If it is not however, is there typically an extra charge for an correction? Also, should I be asking for another wax if that is the case to be sure that it is perfect? :confused:
 
Just saw the wax and you guys were totally right. The fluidy and curvature as well as the U shape were all off. The SA is sending it back to be adjusted.
 
ROUND 3! Here we go again. :twirl: 2 weeks have passed and I finally received the 3rd version of the CAD and it still looks really off. if you scroll above you will see the 1st version of the CAD entitled "BEFORE" and the 2nd version"AFTER". Now that I've received the latest/3rd CAD I was wondering if some of the experts would mind chiming in. It was supposed to have more curvature and fluidity but it still looks off to me. Is this usually this complicated?

_10378.jpg

_10379.jpg
 
I think a frontal view would be easiest to see the fluid design with.
From this picture is the latest version. The red is where I drew in what I can see as the lines of the metal.
sculpted.png
It was a little easier to illustrate from the frontal view, so I used your version 2. On the right is what I see as the line and on the left is an outline of an oval, which would create a very fluid slope (similar to a horizontal parabola)
sculpted2.png
Honestly, I don't think your jeweler understands what you want.
 
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