If you went custom on an engagement ring, why (or why not)?

[Gussie]

@yssie please, please, please link the thread for this masterpiece!

 

[sledge]

Thanks Sledge!

You're probably asking about "RDG"? Robinson Designer Goldsmith was a father/sons operation in NZ - they moved onto bigger and better things a few years ago. A handful of PSers were lucky to have pieces made by them whilst they were working with private customers - I feel very privileged to own one of their creations

Just thinking about it on the spot here... I know I've worked on custom/"non-stock" pieces with Whiteflash, Erika Winters, Diamonds by Lauren, Caysie van Bebber, Victor Canera, Leon Mege, Hunt Country, Green Lake, Brian Gavin, and a few local outfits... and those vendors are often referred to on PS by initialisms... which definitely becomes alphabet soup quickly...

https://www.whiteflash.com/
https://erikawinters.com/
http://www.diamondsbylauren.com/
https://www.cvbinspireddesign.com/
https://www.victorcanera.com/
https://www.leonmege.com/
https://huntcountry.com/
https://www.greenlakejewelry.com/
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/

Thank you @yssie. I'm familiar with the majority. Have yet to cross paths with LM, HC, GLJ or EW. Heard of LM, but not always in a positive manner.

And yes, RDG was one of them I hadn't noticed before. I see they are no longer available. Too bad. Their detail to precision was amazing and I like how they actually hand sketched something before kicking it out on the computer. I suspect they were craftsmen at a high level, and probably not the cheapest to work with but amazing with what they did.

 

[yssie]

@yssie please, please, please link the thread for this masterpiece!

No thread I'm afraid! I never made one, and the diamond in those photos has since been repurposed. I had a tourmaline set in it for a couple of years... a beautiful delicate pink that just got lost in the very detailed setting. I've got a lab ruby in there now - love the Alice in Wonderland feel of the red, don't want to blow the budget on a mined stone in that colour and size (if such a thing could even be found!!), waffling

 

[Gussie]

No thread I'm afraid! I never made one, and the diamond in those photos has since been repurposed. I had a tourmaline set in it for a couple of years... a beautiful delicate pink that just got lost in the very detailed setting. I've got a lab ruby in there now - love the Alice in Wonderland feel of the red, don't want to blow the budget on a mined stone in that colour and size, waffling

Well it is absolutely stunning!

And a million thanks for letting me know you have a lab created ruby in it. I completely love your collection and think your taste is superb!!!! I bought a setting from cvb a bit impulsively. Trying to figure out what kind of 9mm stone to use has overwhelmed me. I don't want to spend that kind of money on a mined sapphire or ruby and really only like a few colors of cs. But I have been waffling over a lab created stone and the whole thought of it.

Sorry for the threadjack, but thanks @yssie!

 

[yssie]

@ceg Oh my goodness, same size, same dilemma!! If this was a 6 or 7 mm stone search the whole thing would be so much more affordable!!

I'll be honest, I don't love the idea of the lab stone I couldn't tell you why other than that it's definitely not a logical objection - I know it's corundum just like corundum unearthed from some mine somewhere! I commissioned a yellow zircon from Jeff as a replacement for this diamond a couple years ago, but the colour wasn't quite right... he's very kindly heating it a bit more for me now, aiming for a pale yellow, and I'm really hoping that will suit! If not I'll probably go the opal route. MrsB's new beauty is an inspiration

What colour are you thinking of for your CvB? I'm off to look for some more info on this setting

 

[molecule]

@ceg There's a thread in the fabulous fashion jewelry section that might be interesting to you:
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...g-a-synthetic-emerald-from-jeff-white.241222/

 

[Gussie]

@ceg There's a thread in the fabulous fashion jewelry section that might be interesting to you:
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...g-a-synthetic-emerald-from-jeff-white.241222/

Thanks! Very tempting!!!

 

[Dancing Fire]

My point is I bet DK could replicate in platinum or their special WG/palladium mix for much cheaper than ordering through Vatche.

Then I should talk to DK about resetting my wife's ring .

I couldn't sleep after paying $1650 for a .500 fine palladium tension setting. There goes $1650 down the toilet when I sold my ring. . I'm one of those person who wouldn't mind wearing a $20K stone on a $200 setting.

 

[Ilovecarbon]

I've had several custom pieces made. With most of my custom projects... I went that route because I wanted specific elements that stock designs didn't feature - I started those projects with a reasonably clear vision of what I wanted. WF's Butterflies was actually my first custom project

Then there's my RDG. My most treasured piece. I went into it with quite literally no concept of what I wanted - a thoroughly disconcerting feeling for me! - and gave the designer photos of flatware, furniture, and flowers, and asked him to make me something "asymmetric, unpredictable, and whimsical", and the first sketch he sent - devoid though it was of nearly any detail - took my breath away He brought to life something more beautiful than I could ever have come up with. Here's that initial sketch... though I suspect its magic is completely lost in translation



And the finished piece with different leaf and curl patterns on each face. Fully hand-forged.








My current stone is in an off-the-shelf setting that suits her perfectly.

I will never, ever recommend custom if the design you want is available off-the-shelf in the quality you're looking for:
1. The original designer deserves credit and monetary compensation for the time and effort he put into the original design. I have no patience whatsoever for vendors who steal other designers' intellectual property.
2. Custom work is more risky in pretty much every way, and usually more pricey - no need to take on unnecessary risk and expense!

That is absolutely stunning!

Edit: Edited because I accidentally quoted 2 posts.

 

[Ilovecarbon]

There are several reasons for wanting a custom setting.

One is for finer detailing or better quality of workmanship: Custom work costs more, but generally speaking, the results are a more beautifully made setting with attention to detail that fits your stone.

You want a unique type of setting: Let's say you want to have a setting that's different from any settings you've seen or you want to combine aspects of more than one setting you've admired. In that case, having a custom setting made where you can "tweak" the details and come up with something to your specific liking will be the way to go.

If you want a halo setting: To create a ring where there are no gaps between the stone and the halo or bezel, you will most probably need to go custom. This is true for almost any shape that you would put into a halo unless, of course, the ring is designed to have the space (an airline). It would be even more important for a pear shaped stone, for example, or a marquise, where each stone has been cut to unique proportions and shape.

If your stone is too large, too deep or just wouldn't fit into a stock setting: Although there are many stock settings available, they do not fit every stone. So there will be times when only a custom setting will work with your stone.

I hope this helps you! What are you thinking about doing with your stone and what shape is it?

Oh I don’t have anything in particular, I was just wondering why others chose to go custom for their unique situation (or chose not to for that matter). Call it morbid curiosity if you will. I understand in the abstract, but I guess I was looking individual perspectives by those who have done it, or who started down that road.

Mostly, I’m just being nosy. Thank you for your offer to help though, it’s very kind.

 

[Dancing Fire]

I wouldn't do a PT setting unless I knew it would be my final upgrade.

 

[sledge]

Then I should talk to DK about resetting my wife's ring .

I couldn't sleep after paying $1650 for a .500 fine palladium tension setting. There goes $1650 down the toilet when I sold my ring. . I'm one of those person who wouldn't mind wearing a $20K stone on a $200 setting.

Haha a well constructed 6 prong secure $200 setting.

I know what you mean though. I never in a million years thought I'd be hear talking diamonds and jewelry with all you. Quite frankly it's so outside my normal realm and social circle but here I am causing mass destruction every where I go, lol. I've enjoyed learning about diamonds and find them gorgeous. While my girls settings tested me I wouldn't have done it any other way now.

My point in rambling is that big shiny diamonds hold a special place to me now but they are for my girl and looking at them on her finger, not mine.

My band will be the $200 comfort fit titanium, tungsten or some other non-traditional metal wedding band with no diamonds. Nice and rugged looking, lol. Maybe something in a darker grey.

Totally not up to PS standards.

 

[Ilovecarbon]

I had pulled all my hair out looking for a setting for my girl. Then I'm pretty sure all my wonderful helpers here on PS had nearly pulled out all their hair. While I'm sure they would all look gloriously beautiful and totally rock the bald look, I figured it'd only be right to let them keep a few strands of hair so their husbands didn't kill me.



Seriously -- my girl nearly drove all us insane looking for "the" setting. It happened in a Jared's of all places and I couldn't bring myself to buy a crap setting to stick my, ummmm...her, gorgeous BGD super ideal diamond in. Plus it needed modifications, etc and Jared's wouldn't play ball without hefty charges and stupid long wait times. Not to mention I didn't trust them to begin with, so letting them modify something with their rep pretty much terrified me.

Soooo...I went with David Klass. Best decision I made. Took inspiration, refined it and breathed in perfection in ways I didn't even know was going to happen. I'd never designed/built a ring before, but with this awesome community they pulled me through.

If you want more details....

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/dk-bgd-custom-setting-the-home-stretch.240843/

Sledge, I remember reading your post, and feeling your pain along with you! But I was super happy to find out that you succeeded with something beautiful in the end.

 

[justpeachy]

I'd prefer the instant gratification of buying off the rack. My stone is too deep and was a poor fit for a stock setting. Going custom has been exciting, to an extent, but I'm indecisive and unsure of my choices. I think I'll stick to buying something thats "already been done" by designers I like in the future.

 

[Blingalingaling]

@Ilovecarbon , my pleasure and I hope I helped you a little bit!
In my case, because I have a pear and I wanted to put it into a halo, the only way for me to accomplish that was to go custom. My setting was made by Steven Kirsch, who is known for his excellent pave' work, solid, reliable construction, eye for proportion and artistry. I'm glad I had Steven make my ring! Other jewelers have seen it and remarked about the excellent quality of the workmanship and working with Steven was a dream!

My other stone is an emerald cut and, although I looked at stock settings and wasn't necessarily against purchasing one, I wanted platinum. I looked at stock settings but those that were available for the size stone I have (6.59 ct.) at the time were 14k white or yellow gold. Since I prefer to put it into a setting that I don't have to worry about re-plating over time and I wanted to make it a 3-stone ring, I went the route of having it custom made. I'm usually an "I see it and if I love it, I buy it" kind of person but sometimes you have to trust the judgment of someone who knows their stuff.

 

[Ally T]

I also have a pear & despite the apparent simplicity of the setting, it was completely custom. I had horrible issues with 2 pervious stock settings failing to secure the stone. When I lost the diamond in the back of the car, that was it. So as simple as my setting looks, I know it matches the dimensions of my wedding band completely, only 0.5mm narrower. I know it shows my perfect little diamond off beautifully from every angle & makes it the star of the show, and I know that diamond isn't going ANYWHERE. Pears & marquise shapes are notoriously difficult to secure long term, so for me, after battling for years to stop that baby popping out every now & again, the cost was worth it. My rings look happy together

 

[meely]

I went for custom as I wanted something totally different that I hadn't seen available to buy! An any case my centre stone is an oval and I definitely wanted a halo so even if I had wanted something more classic and less 'unique' I don't think I would have had much choice but to go custom.

 

[cflutist]

My 3 HPD-CBI rings were all custom with Pt/Ru so that I could have them exactly as I wanted them. Went through 3 iterations of CAD designs for each of them.

Symphonie with 2.79 F-VS1 CBI
Trilogie with 2.21 F-SI1, .53 F-VS1, .53 F-VS2 all CBIs
Queen Pari halo with 2.32 Q-VVS2 CBI

When I had Trilogie made, the center diamond came from a Vatche Serenity setting. I couldn't bare to waste it, so I had a CZ set in it.

My 3.01 F-SI1 pear was set into a 14k semi-mount ring that previously held a 2.05 D-VS2 oval by switching out the peg head. Six melee F/G-VS .70 ctw.

My 1.50 F-VS1 marquise was set in a 14k semi-mount ring with 23 princess cuts F/G-VS 2.32 ctw.