Help with creating a ruby ring

[benell]

Hi all,

I''m finally ready to put together my wife''s next piece of jewelry. (It keeps getting longer between each piece since I want the next one to be nicer than the last, but I suppose that''s another thread...)

I was hoping for some of your opinions, which I''ve learned to value greatly. First and foremost, the center stone -- I''m leaning towards this one from AJS:

http://www.ajsgems.com/burma-ruby/gemstone-ruby-2049216390-2046340429.html

I also considered this one:

http://www.ajsgems.com/burma-ruby/gemstone-ruby-2049213082-2046340429.html

I emailed the company to inquire about the differences between the stones, particularly because the price-per-carat for the larger stone was lower. They said that they both have great color (of course they said that...) but smaller stone has better color. Any opinions on these stones? If I''m seeing things correctly, there may be some extinction in the middle of the smaller stone, but it''s probably not significant enough to be a deal-breaker. I''ve looked at the jaw-droppers from R. W. Wise, but they are simply out of my price range.

As for the setting, I''m thinking a 3-stone with diamonds for the sides and an antique style band in yellow gold. I''m not sure if antique is the proper terminology, I''m referring to a setting with lots of detail and perhaps very small diamonds inlaid. However, I''ve noticed that this style is very rare in yellow gold. Any opinions if this is perhaps because:

1. Structural integrity, the softer gold isn''t strong enough?
2. Platinum is a more expensive metal, so people prefer a more expensive metal for very nice rings?
3. It just plain looks strange (to some people)?

Thanks all, I hope to hear from you!

 

[LD]

I love the colour of #1 and think it will be even better IRL (if my experience with AJS is anything to go by). However, I prefer the cut of #2.

They''re both heated but I guess you''re ok with that?

In terms of the setting, yellow gold is a bit out of fashion at the moment which is probably why you don''t see much of it around. White and yellow gold can be treated almost the same and there''s no reason why you couldn''t have something made that you want. Personally, I love the idea of diamond sides (emerald cut?) but would then keep the shank simple and let the gemstones speak for themselves but I might be tempted to do something with the basket holding the stones so the side view gave you that antique/ornate feel.

 

[benell]

Yes, I''m ok with them being heated. Unheated would be nice, but from what I''ve seen getting an unheated stone even remotely as nice looking as these would be extremely expensive.

Thanks for the feedback about the setting. Yes, I''d probably use emerald cut side diamonds. Keeping the shank simple but perhaps some ornamentation on the basket is a great idea. I know that emerald cut diamonds are a little less forgiving for inclusions, but with a yellow gold setting it would hopefully be unnoticeable to use near colorless instead of colorless. I don''t want the setting to end up costing more than the ruby!

 

[LD]

I''ve just had another thought ........... you''re right about emerald cuts being unforgiving and you need to get ones as clean as possible (although if you''re setting them in yellow gold I''d be less concerned about the colour). Emerald cuts can also be expensive so as a suggestion how about an art deco look? You could use graduated baguettes? This will be a cheaper option but will give great finger coverage and might give you the more decorated look you''re after. I''ve got a Ruby (a bit too pink for my liking) but it''s set in yellow gold in this sort of style. Ignore the massive claws holding the Ruby - I wouldn''t recommend them lol! Here''s a picture so you can see what I mean.

 

[chrono]

Date: 6/17/2009 1:02:47 PM
Author:benell

http://www.ajsgems.com/burma-ruby/gemstone-ruby-2049216390-2046340429.html

I also considered this one:

http://www.ajsgems.com/burma-ruby/gemstone-ruby-2049213082-2046340429.html

Clickable links now.

 

[chrono]

The colour of the first one trumps the second. There appears to be cut issues in the center though - I'd request additional pictures of you like it. The second rubu is too dark in tone and does not show much brilliance.

Yellow gold would be lovely for the ruby. The only reason why it isn't seen as often today is due to the popularity of white metals like Platinum. Yellow gold isn't too soft for everyday wear.

 

[ma re]

THIS site might give you some ideas, as they tend to make quite a lot of pieces that sound like something you''d want. Can''t give you an opinion on rubies as the 1st link is broken when I try to access it (all I can tell you is that the 2nd one looks nice).

 

[PinkTower]

What a fun project. Loving''s idea of the Art Deco look gets my vote.

Someone on here posted that their ring with a center stone similar to the style you are considering reminded them of the Chrysler Building. You could do a step cut back from the ruby and then a tapered baguette, or some variation. I am not sure a like your idea of the filigree on the band with little diamonds if you use the emerald cut. The two styles don''t mix well in my opinion. Maybe you could post an example of that look? I am just not sure of what you mean.

Also, check the prices of metals if the ring is custon made. The price difference of gold vs. platinum right now is not great. There are websites to obtain the information from. I think the one I use is Kitco. I developed an allergy to gold about 18 months ago and had to have my rings redone in platinum. I suspect my body changed as a result of some medication I began taking.

I am in the process of having a ruby ring made in platinum, so I am interested to follow your thread. Have you looked at CherryPicked for ideas? The website was down when I was looking for a stone, but I see it is back up now and they have
some fine rubies.

 

[soberguy]

Loving, I love those massive claws LOL!

 

[Rosa]

What a sweet husband you are! I just clicked on both links and the first ruby is gone from the site, so did you purchase it?

I want to put in a vote for yellow gold. 18kt yellow gold has a rich look to it and brings out the best in a red stone. Somewhere on pricescope I read that rubies for sale are often displayed on brass plates in India and Burma b/c the warm yellow/coppery tones make the stones look even more red and less pink.

If your wife hates yellow gold jewelry and only wears white metals, well, then forget about it, but otherwise, I vote for yellow. It also will help you save money on the side diamonds.

While it is true that white metals were in style over the past several years, there is a major resurgence of yellow gold - just go into Bergdorf or Saks and look at the designer fine jewelry displays - they are showing almost exclusively yellow gold.

Please post pics when the project is finished and best of luck!

 

[ma re]

Date: 6/18/2009 11:00:12 AM
Author: Rosa
What a sweet husband you are! I just clicked on both links and the first ruby is gone from the site, so did you purchase it?

I want to put in a vote for yellow gold. 18kt yellow gold has a rich look to it and brings out the best in a red stone. Somewhere on pricescope I read that rubies for sale are often displayed on brass plates in India and Burma b/c the warm yellow/coppery tones make the stones look even more red and less pink.

If your wife hates yellow gold jewelry and only wears white metals, well, then forget about it, but otherwise, I vote for yellow. It also will help you save money on the side diamonds.

While it is true that white metals were in style over the past several years, there is a major resurgence of yellow gold - just go into Bergdorf or Saks and look at the designer fine jewelry displays - they are showing almost exclusively yellow gold.

Please post pics when the project is finished and best of luck!

Are you sure you didn''t pick that up from R. W. Hughes'' ARTICLE?

 

[Colored Gemstone Nut]

Date: 6/18/2009 11:00:12 AM
Author: Rosa
What a sweet husband you are! I just clicked on both links and the first ruby is gone from the site, so did you purchase it?

I want to put in a vote for yellow gold. 18kt yellow gold has a rich look to it and brings out the best in a red stone. Somewhere on pricescope I read that rubies for sale are often displayed on brass plates in India and Burma b/c the warm yellow/coppery tones make the stones look even more red and less pink.

If your wife hates yellow gold jewelry and only wears white metals, well, then forget about it, but otherwise, I vote for yellow. It also will help you save money on the side diamonds.

While it is true that white metals were in style over the past several years, there is a major resurgence of yellow gold - just go into Bergdorf or Saks and look at the designer fine jewelry displays - they are showing almost exclusively yellow gold.

Please post pics when the project is finished and best of luck!

I agree with Rosa...Yellow gold is the way to go.
IMHO with both ruby or spinel....Rosa you "red" correctly regarding vendors displaying stones on brass plates.

Benell...I think you want to put together the greatest possible ring you can for your other half.

Keep a couple things in mind. More is not always better but the simplistic nature of the piece is what may define it.
Engraving with pave would look great. I think it is a matter of taste and what you think your wife may like.

A 3 stone setting with channel set melee down the side might look awesome.

I think in order to get a ring which is engraved with incorporating pave the band is going to have to be wider to display the detail.

Have you seen any rings on the forum or net that spark any ideas for a working model??

 

[innerkitten]

I know this is OT, but I just wanted to say hello to Josh. I haven''t seen him post here in a long time. And Loving Diamonds, I love your ruby ring.

 

[benell]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all of your replies. Yes, I did pull the trigger and buy the first stone. I found the direct link to the image file if anyone who missed it would like a look (the stone is 1.02 carat): http://www.ajsgems.com/images/ProductImages/Ruby/Burma%20Ruby/burma-ruby_RUB-00339-l.jpg

The ring design is mostly a mental picture right now, and one that is ever-changing at that. I''m hoping for a setting that compliments the middle stone but doesn''t distract from it. Now that the stone is taken care of, I''ll try to find some pictures of setting ideas. My wife wears almost exclusively yellow gold, so it looks like we have a winner for the metal. She also ran into the allergy issue that Pink Tower brought up, but only on her wedding ring because it''s a thicker band. She had the interior rhodium plated and it hasn''t been a problem after that. It appears that as along as the new ring isn''t a double-wide then she shouldn''t have any problems with it.

I looked at cherrypicked and most (or perhaps all) of the list of sellers stickied at the top of the forum. I was really looking for a stunner and all of the unheated stunners that stick out in my memory were so drastically out of my budget it wasn''t even a consideration. But you know, to each his (or her) own. In my price range I could get an eye-catching heated stone or an okay looking unheated stone, so I opted for the former. A heated stone isn''t great in terms of an investment, but if I''m being honest with myself, we''re never going to sell it anyway.

I''ll be sure to post a picture when it arrives.

 

[chrono]

Benell,
Thank you for the update. Did AJS send you additional pictures? The reason why rubies are set in yellow gold is that the yellow brings out the red while surpressing the blue undertone.

 

[benell]

Hi all,

There have been some interesting developments. I did not follow Chrono''s very, very good advice of asking for additional pictures. I was starting to grow attached to the stone and I realized that I didn''t have a good backup plan if someone else decided to snatch it up, so I went ahead and bought it and I figured I just use their money back guarantee if I wasn''t happy with it. Unfortunately, I may end up doing just that.

The color is good, it''s nothing to write home about under indoor fluorescent lighting but it can really throw off some fire in sunlight. The cut is a little offcenter, but I don''t notice it unless I''m looking at it from underneath, so not a deal-breaker there either. The issue I found is that there is a small chip (for lack of a better word) in it on the side. I''m considering a very open setting, and I think that it will be visible, perhaps something like the setting in this thread (in yellow gold):

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/wf-3-stone-emerald-cut-cad.82606/

I feel a little misled with the description of the stone being eye clean. Sure, I don''t see it when looking straight down, but it''s obvious when viewing from the side. I''ve voiced my displeasure and informed them that I may be returning the stone, I''m waiting for their reply.

Also, I didn''t realize that the importation of Burma rubies to the US was banned last fall. Fortunately, AJS moved this ruby stateside before the ban went in place. I know that they were legit because I received the stone the very next day, shipped from inside the US. Hopefully the ban doesn''t come into play if I decide to go with a different ruby.

I don''t currently have access to a camera, but hopefully I can post some pictures tonight. I''d really like some opinions about the stone and whether to keep it.

 

[benell]

I did a little photo session with the ruby tonight. It''s my first time photographing a gemstone, those bad boys really are difficult!

I''ve attached a picture showing the chip that I am concerned about. I simply can''t show any other pictures I took, it wouldn''t be fair to the ruby. They all make the stone look so crimson, but it''s really not like that in real life. So please don''t judge the color by the photo.

 

[Lovinggems]

It''s pretty terrible if the chip wasn''t disclosed on the website, maybe you can go for a spinel instead? I am currently looking for a little Mahenge spinel, and your budget is higher than mine, you should be able to find a nice one with a reputable vendor and help from some knowledgable & lovely forum members.

 

[ma re]

I won''t judge the color, but I have to warn you that the chip isn''t only an esthetic issue, but it can be one of durability as well. If you choose to go along with this one, ask the jeweller if he thinks that nick can cause any problems, i.e. if it looks like a surface-reaching internal fracture. In some cases they can be a problem for a stone setter, not to mention a risk to wear.

Another thing; flourescent lighting = no good for rubies. If you want to evaluate the color properly, find another lighting source. Flourescents don''t cover any of the red part of the light wavelenght spectrum, so no red objects look good under them. But they can make blue sapphires look quite nice.

 

[chrono]

I am sorry that you did not get the pictures ahead of time to avoid this issue.

I understand your feeling a little duped at this point as well and in your shoes, I would return the stone. I know that it is probably minor for but something to be given as a gift, I''d pick something that doesn''t have such obvious clarity issues even though it might be on the underside.

 

[LD]

I have sometimes asked AJS for additional photos and they haven''t been forthcoming - don''t know if it depends on the stone?

I guess the question to ask is "do you love it?". Does the colour make you go "ooooooooooo"? If yes to both of those and the Ruby looks good from the top down then that''s the most important. You can always (subject to the chip not compromising the integrity of the stone) hide it with a good setting.

If you don''t absolutely love the stone (and it sounds like you have reservations) then send it back.

 

[benell]

Live and learn, I suppose. I''ve decided to send the ruby back. I received a response from AJS and they offered to sell me the other stone I was interested in at a discount as a replacement. Sending them even more money isn''t exactly the resolution I was hoping for. I had been trying to decide if I still would have purchased the ruby if I knew about the flaw, but after awhile I started to feel vindictive and I just didn''t want it anymore regardless.

So, I''m back at square one. Please don''t be shy posting suggestions for rubies, if you please. Fortunately, I started this journey the day after the credit card statement posted, which means that I still have approximately 30 days before the next statement arrives in the mail and my wife realizes that something is amiss. Hopefully I can still get everything completed by then.

 

[ma re]

Are you sure you only want a ruby? Red spinels can be just as nice as most rubies (there were actually many cases throughout history when they were mistaken for rubies), but cost considerably less, and rubelites can also be realy beautiful red gems with a bit of magenta-pink in them (also are much more affordable than rubies). Off course, rubelite is not as durable of a stone as a ruby, but spinel is actually very close to a ruby in those terms. Just something to think about.

 

[benell]

I''d really prefer a ruby, especially since it seems like you don''t save much money if you get a spinel that looks like a ruby.

I keep going back to look at this ruby from Ed: http://www.wildfishgems.com/inc/sdetail/10700
There are several issues, though, not least of which is that it''s a total budget buster and I don''t think that I''d be able to buy it at the present time. Also, I''m a little worried that I''ve been tarnished forever by looking at heated stones and now unheated stones aren''t going to be pretty enough. I know that I said that I wanted a heated stone, but I wouldn''t mind a nice looking unheated stone if I can afford it, I just never thought that I''d be able to. I realize that Ed frequents here, so honest but polite opinions would be appreciated.

 

[chrono]

You are not going to see a difference in colour between a heated and an unheated ruby. You might see some evidence of heating if the stone is highly magnified but that’s about it. For what you are looking for in a ruby, it would be a total budget buster, which is why a spinel alternative was suggested. To get something unheated in that colour, would be even more expensive.

The Wildfish stone is lightly included but not distracting. Per the rating, I expect it to be visible under certain lighting condition. The colour rating is medium dark but from the upside down picture, the body colour looks darkish. The first few pictures show a bright red stone because the lighting seems quite strong as evidenced by the reflection coming off the tweezers.

 

[LD]

It''s very pretty but VERY expensive. Also, it might be worth asking Ed if that''s a chip on the underside. I don''t think it is but I''d still want to know what type of inclusion it is. I don''t know Ed''s return policy so I''d check that out also.

Have you decided against the other Ruby from AJS?

 

[benell]

I''ve decided to keep the ruby after all. I got over my vindictiveness and tried being rational. I took the ruby to a jeweler to see if the chip is anything to worry about in terms of structural integrity, and he said it isn''t. He was practically drooling over the stone and showed it off to a couple of the salespeople (which also made me feel better about reconsidering things). I was still a little peeved about being misled, so I negotiated a discount with AJS and they are giving me some money back. The chip will probably be visible after setting if viewed from exactly the right angle, but I''m content with letting it serve as a fingerprint of sorts. The stone really does look excellent in natural light from all normal viewing angles. It is definitely the nicest ruby I''ve ever seen up close (although, I don''t get out much...)

Now that the center stone is taken care of, I need some help with the setting. I''d like a trellis/woven setting in all yellow gold (not two-tone), but this appears to be very difficult to find. I''ve searched around on Google and perused Stuller, but I can''t find a stock setting like this for emerald cut. Any other suggestions for where to look? If I were to have it custom made, how much should I expect to pay?

As always, thanks for the feedback. You guys and gals are great.

 

[chrono]

I think the colour is good; just remember - no regrets. That''s what I always ask myself when I purchase a gemstone is to be sure I''ll never regret the money spent on it. As for the setting, the cost of the custom work depends on the intricacy of the design and also metal type.

 

[PinkTower]

Benell,

Lauren has a really nice ring that reminds me a lot of your stone and the way I think you are saying you want to set the stone.

Hers is a citrine. I don''t know how to link; maybe she will read this and show it to you.

 

[LaurenThePartier]

Date: 6/25/2009 6:26:20 PM
Author: benell
I've decided to keep the ruby after all. I got over my vindictiveness and tried being rational. I took the ruby to a jeweler to see if the chip is anything to worry about in terms of structural integrity, and he said it isn't. He was practically drooling over the stone and showed it off to a couple of the salespeople (which also made me feel better about reconsidering things). I was still a little peeved about being misled, so I negotiated a discount with AJS and they are giving me some money back. The chip will probably be visible after setting if viewed from exactly the right angle, but I'm content with letting it serve as a fingerprint of sorts. The stone really does look excellent in natural light from all normal viewing angles. It is definitely the nicest ruby I've ever seen up close (although, I don't get out much...)

Now that the center stone is taken care of, I need some help with the setting. I'd like a trellis/woven setting in all yellow gold (not two-tone), but this appears to be very difficult to find. I've searched around on Google and perused Stuller, but I can't find a stock setting like this for emerald cut. Any other suggestions for where to look? If I were to have it custom made, how much should I expect to pay?

As always, thanks for the feedback. You guys and gals are great.

Hi Bennel. I just saw this thread after Pink Tower pointed it out to me elsewhere.

My jeweler ordered this setting from Adwar, IIRC, and then added more gold to ensure it had the heavy look I was going for. Without the side diamonds, this setting only cost me ~$400. The center stone is a Madiera Citrine.

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/birthday-bling-i-love-this-thing.70144/