Help with a Project: Am I Delusional?

[amoline]

Hi, PS'ers! - I need your help to find out if I'm actually in delusion off base in regards to a gift-project or if anyone might have any suggestions.

I have been contacting a few vendors here and there about my next big project - hopefully for around Christmas 2019. I would like to do an aquamarine, sapphire, diamond snowflake brooch/pearl necklace clasp for a family member who loves snowflakes.

My inspiration piece that I have been showing is Queen Elizabeth II's Hillberg and Berk Canadian snowflake brooch:
Her brooch, specifically, has about 10 ctw sapphires (Canadian sapphires, which I know I am not able nor am trying to source) with about 4.4 ctw of diamond, some in melee but also much in the middle "sparkle ball" section of the brooch.

So here's the dilemma. Of the few quotes I've gotten back, they are all over the place, and much of them don't have a LOT of detail. Ultimately, I get it -- she's the Queen, and I'm not going to be able to get the exact same thing no matter how much I try. That said.. I am NOT trying to do this project "on the cheap" - I expect it to cost money, because I'd like to use real aquamarine and sapphire, along with some nice diamond melee. Except, instead of the middle diamond ball, I have a large pearl I'd like to get set in there. - helps to save on the diamond melee and goes along with the pearl theme.

However... here's some context. I contacted one of the PS-listed vendors (and stating that I am a PS member), gave them some details, and the quote I got back for 14k white gold 2.25" snowflake clasp....

$44,000. - PLUS whatever the pearl strands would cost from them (because they won't do it with my pearls).

Needless to say, I can't go with that vendor. But... holy crap! Like I said, I expected to spend some money, perhaps in the $8000 or so range, but nearly six times that much at $44,000 for me for a necklace clasp is simply not possible. I understand if I were trying to source massive 5ct+ stones, or something - but ultimately, what I seem to be seeing for this project is - some nice small sapphires, some nice small aquamarines, and nice diamond melee, plus lots of careful setting work. Sure, I expect to pay for that, but I just fail to see where a mid five digit number could ever come from in this project. Am I off my rocker? I don't want to name that particular vendor because maybe it genuinely does cost that much money.

I want to do it right and nice, in a way that isn't cheap, but I can't spend a BMW on it. Now, after hearing that quote, I'm afraid if I do get something lower that it won't be able to be done "right." Has anyone done something like this before? I realize clasps/brooches are not a common item these days. Can anyone ballpark what I can maybe expect it to be done well for? I don't want to go cheapo synthetic, but can't go $45,000 for aquamarines and diamond melee.

Sorry for the blathering. Just hoping I haven't gotten too ambitious for something I'll never be able to afford. OR, if anyone has suggestions on where I might be able to budget trim but still have something nice. I am considering white sapphire instead of diamonds, but am afraid it might destroy too much of the sparkle. And, well, it would hurt, but I could swing the $45,000 if I dedicate 6 or 7 years of jewelry budget to it, but ideally would like to not.

Thanks, all. PS is the best.

Andrew.

 

[kmoro]

2.25” ... obviously, I’m no vendor, but when I look at the brooch picture and think 2.25” .... not sure what carat weights you're talking about for that so it’s really hard to say ... but my amateur guess would be that $8000 is kind of unrealistic ... can’t really comment on $44,000, but I do think $8000 would be low ... when you consider 2 carat diamond melee eternity rings go for around $5000-7000, 3 carat around $10,000 for pre-made ... so if you figure in 4 carat diamonds plus other stones and the custom intricate work involved, for example .... yeah, I don’t know about $8000 ...

 

[MakingTheGrade]

I could see that price if using BG or WF melee and benches based on how much some of their melee pendants cost. H&A melee comes at a premium I’m sure.

8k May be doable for jeweleryhoo or one of the other overseas eBay setting vendors that also does custom work. It’s not the same quality of finish or melee but many folk in the CS forum are happy with their custom settings and colored stones from them.

 

[Snowdrop13]

I know nothing about pricing custom work but it seems that rings can be in the low 000’s for intricate work. I’m sure you would need to multiply that several times for a brooch this size before you’ve factored in sourcing all the stones.

 

[AV_]

.
There is too much boring pave yardage in the Canadian pin. Each star branch seems more work than one classical pave-d ring - perhaps not less than two (5K each, say), and this gets close to the impressive 44K quote...

I wonder what could be done for half that.

This could be fun to work through with a jeweler, out of season, when everyone is bored.

2c

___
Eg. - an ice pendant with not much pave - WWW . This collection takes my breath away! There are many designs - many 'gift items' indeed, with no grand diamonds involved. Mere ice...

 

[YadaYadaYada]

Is vintage an option? You could probably find a nice looking brooch/pendant in that price range, let me see if I can find some examples.

 

[missy]

Your inspiration pic is GORGEOUS. Love it. And I have a particular fondness for sapphires and aquamarines and diamonds as I have a non snow flake pendant made of those 3 stones.

I think @StephanieLynn's idea is wonderful to find a vintage pendant if you can. My pendant is vintage too and was affordable in the 6K range IIRC.

Alternatively I wonder if David Klass could make this for you within your budget.
Or IDJ (ID jewelry). Both very reasonably priced vendors generally.

I think Caysie (CVB) also would do an amazing job and her pricing is fair as well.

If you haven't already contacted the above vendors I would ask for a quote from them as well.

 

[YadaYadaYada]

This is probably the best one I found with a quick search under $10,000. Platinum and diamonds with the center being almost one carat from the 1950's and it's a brooch/pendant.



19th century but may not be snowflake enough

 

[rockysalamander]

I think that you are undervaluing and not understanding the work involved in this setting. Even it this was CZs, this is a very expensive setting to make. To make it well, I would be assuming around $30K. There is a lot of intricate details and time in this setting. It will take a master setter doing A LOT of pave -- which is hard and fiddly to do well. Then, you need to find perfectly matched (color, shape, cut) stone for each of the stations.

While these have a cache due to being vintage or famous brands, you can see that the price quoted are not out of line:
https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/nec...rald-diamond-snowflake-necklace/id-j_2905873/
https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/bro...s-diamond-gold-snowflake-brooch/id-j_2168103/

Something like this would be a more affordable inspiration. You could still retain a round of sapphires and aquamarines in the first spot where it splits into each branch. Sapphire in middle, aquamarine on the sides.
https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/nec...ld-snowflake-pin-brooch-pendant/id-j_3672373/

I had a bit of time this morning and decided to play around. You can hate this idea, but I'm just trying to give you some inspiration to take the concept and make it your own and more wearable and affordable.

Using the following two designs, I merged elements of each.





I did the work on 1/2 the piece at a time since they overlap. I took the basic shape of #2. But replaced the rounds at the center with the 3-prongs from #1. I replaced the branch tips of #2 with the nice round in diamond of #1. I'd shorten the branches before they split (not shown). Then, you can line each leg of the branch with melee. You can use blue sapphires, aquas or even treated blue diamonds. I'd use treated blues in this application because they will retain fire over the other two. The rounds in the center can be sapphire (montanas would be lovely) and the tips can be aquas. You can add a little halo around each of the 3-prong rounds and round in diamonds at the tips if you want some extra detail (adds cost).



Again. This may not be your design, but this would be a more wearable and affordable design. I personally prefer this simpler and more clear design of a snowflake. But, just play.

 

[missy]

Not a snowflake so much but here are some beautiful pendants not too far from your budget. A bit over budget but maybe you can use as inspiration pics for creating one.

https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/nec...ds-necklace-18-karat-black-gold/id-j_4875821/

https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/nec...ld-snowflake-pin-brooch-pendant/id-j_3672373/



These are way under budget and on sale but not exactly what you are looking for...perhaps you can use as a starting point to create a more affordable dream pendant...

https://parkcityjewelers.com/products/diamond-and-sapphire-snowflake-pendant

https://www.escobardiamonds.com/jewelry/pendants/blue-sapphire-and-diamond-snowflake-necklace.html

https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/nec...mond-snowflake-pendant-necklace/id-j_5304762/

This one has rubies but again perhaps for inspiration. Very affordable. And pretty.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/571638...f=sr_gallery-1-1&organic_search_click=1&pro=1

 

[amoline]

Thanks for the posts, everybody! Like I said, I wasn't trying to cheap out on it or anything like that and definitely understand that the micro-level work is enormous!

To be clear, I wasn't exactly trying to copy the queen's brooch, but rather just use it as an inspiration piece. I also have about 95 carats of loose sapphire from my grandmother before she passed away - it would be sentimental to use some of it, and probably save a few dollars, but I know some vendors aren't terribly keen on it which is also understandable.

I've been looking at something perhaps a little smaller than the original.

I'll look at everyone's suggestions more in depth and post back! Nothing on this project is/should be rushed, and it's not something I would want to start with any vendor until the spring.

I did send a "feeler" email to IDJ, who has been great with me so far, so we will see what they say! I definitely get the sense that IDJ always ends up being the "this is the minimum that you should spend to do this right" number. So it'll be a great gauge. And, now that I understand the level of setting work, if I do find a designer, I know that it is in all the small setting work where the cost comes from, so can find ways to back down on that.

You're all awesome!

 

[whitewave]

I was thinking 40k to 60k for cost as I was reading.

It’s very intricate and I also agree you are undervaluing the intensive work it is going to take to make this.

I would also caution you spending 8k on a brooch as a surprise.

I LOVE LOVE LOVE brooches, but the most I want to spend on one is 2-3 k (again, at the most). Probably right under 2k, as that is my threshold for insuring pieces.

So 8k brooch also needs to be insured and it’s so impractical.

 

[mrs-b]

Hi @amoline

You're in good hands here re design, so I just wanted to let you know that I had a similar experience with a setting for a pair of earrings I wanted. I had the diamonds, and I was quoted 8k from a PS vendor. Brian Gavin Diamonds ended up doing the setting for me for $2200. David Klass Jewelry later told me they would have made them for me for half that.

The interesting thing is that the most expensive vendor and the cheapest vendor at that time used the same person to set their stones. So essentially - they would have been exactly the same earrings.

So all that to say - shop around! And don't be afraid of a low quote; sometimes it's indicative that the expensive quote was just wildly inflated.

Last example; I once saw a gorgeous paid of pearl and diamond drop earrings in Vegas. I LOVED them! Quote - either 43 or 48k - I can't remember exactly. I had the same earrings made with stones and pearls I sourced myself - 5.1k. Seriously - there is no rhyme nor reason to some of this stuff!

Good luck!

 

[amoline]

I agree re:insuring, and certainly if were ever going to buy 40k of diamonds, it wouldn't be all in a pave setting!

To clarify, this would be a clasp for pearls - something front/side worn on strands. I just thought thinking 'brooch' May be an easier way to approach it.

Finally, I hope nobody took this thread as an "omg! XYZ is ripping me off!" Tone of thread - NOT what I had intended so apologies if that's how it sounded! Rather, was just hoping to guesstimate where the majority of the cost was coming from, so I can not do that. Secondly, hoping to discover some of the disparity. Looking forward to seeing what IDJ comes back with, and perhaps working with someone to cut down on both the cost and setting work.

Thank you all for sharing your experiences! I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. Pricescope really is the best

 

[Karl_K]

The labor is going to add up fast.

 

[MakingTheGrade]

The labor is going to add up fast.

Yeah, that's what prompted my suggestion of some of the online ebay overseas companies. Labor is cheaper in China. I mean you get what you pay for, but so it's maybe not PS quality micropave, but it's by no means ugly either.

 

[bludiva]

@lovedogs convertible pendant/ring from jewelryhoo looks amazing...perhaps reach out to them for a quote?

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/jedi-spinel-ring-pendant-convertible-piece.245007/

 

[Karl_K]

Yeah, that's what prompted my suggestion of some of the online ebay overseas companies. Labor is cheaper in China. I mean you get what you pay for, but so it's maybe not PS quality micropave, but it's by no means ugly either.

I just dont see it going well for something like this.

 

[amoline]

I'm still reading through posts as I run out to do some errands but I agree that one of the eastern setting vendors is probably not likely - if I had a more simple stone or setting to do, perhaps, but probably not something very intricate.

In any case, I'm still browsing and cannot thank you all enough for your input!

 

[Karl_K]

Have you considered a Richard Homer snowflake cut topaz?
To me that is one of the ultimate gifts for a snowflake lover.
In the past he has cut them out to 25mm or larger.
A few diamonds around it in a snowflake pattern and super yummy!

 

[amoline]

Have you considered a Richard Homer snowflake cut topaz?
To me that is one of the ultimate gifts for a snowflake lover.
In the past he has cut them out to 25mm or larger.
A few diamonds around it in a snowflake pattern and super yummy!

I did not know about this at all! I will absolutely look at it - a great idea as well!

Everyone has given an awful lot to think about! Thank you so much. I'll continue reading and replying as I get through everyone's posts

Andrew

 

[lovedogs]

Have you considered a Richard Homer snowflake cut topaz?
To me that is one of the ultimate gifts for a snowflake lover.
In the past he has cut them out to 25mm or larger.
A few diamonds around it in a snowflake pattern and super yummy!

Ooh I didn't think of this but it's a great idea!!! Also, John Dyer has some incredible fantastic cut topaz that remind me of snowflakes. That might get the snowflake vibe without the crazy cost.

 

[Lula]

Good quality settings are expensive. And, surprisingly, supplying your own stones doesn't bring down the cost a whole lot, because, as Karl mentioned, the labor to set the stones adds up quickly. As an example, this past year I considered setting a four-carat colored stone in a heavy, stylized, gold pendant with several carre-cut diamonds I already own. If I remember right, the quote was approximately $6,000 for the pendant, the matching chain and clasp, and to set the stones, which I didn't think was unreasonable. However, my design was far less complex than the snowflake brooch that is your inspiration piece. I agree with the others who have suggested contacting several vendors for quotes. I think the cost of settings can vary quite a bit depending on if the vendor has an in-house bench versus if the vendor contracts with outside benches. Alternatively, you may want to consider working directly with a smaller, independent benchman who works in a similar style. For example, Scott Schreiber (you can find him on Facebook under Scott Schreiber Jewelry Design) or Tom Herman of Seven Fingers Jewelry https://www.sevenfingers.com/index.html are both smaller, independent jewelry design businesses. On this page of the Seven Fingers site https://www.sevenfingers.com/about.html, it says that brooches range from $2,000 - $20,000.
In addition to the excellent help you're receiving on this forum, I encourage you to post a thread under the Colored Stones forum; the posters there are familiar with many independent smaller benches that work with colored stones. Good luck to you -- what a lovely gift this will be.

 

[amoline]

I have begun to agree with @AV_ the more I look at the inspiration piece. Beautiful, certainly, but at some point the pave work outshines the beauty and blue/icy feel of the rest of it.

Now, I'd love to include a little bit of pave, somehow, but I also feel that doing some of it pave and some not might look a little silly if it's not balanced correctly. I'd like to have a bit more of an idea before I bring it to any jeweler, first, but like I say again with the holiday season I'm not really bugging anybody particularly heavily - this is definitely a "when you're bored" sort of project.

Just browsing snowflake brooches and pins images on google, it seems so many snowflakes are naturally pave reliant.

I'm not sure if it would help in design cost and look natural, but I also thought of using small, seed pearls in place of some of the pave, if that ends up possible. Something like this I also love, and using pearls does provide the same spacing feel that the pave does otherwise, and still allows the feel of a snowflake:



I also am going to stop by the one decent jeweler in town that does things like this, so I'd be curious to see what he has to say as well.


Once again, can't thank everyone enough for their thoughts, suggestions, and help.

 

[amoline]

Apologies if the double post is a big no-no, but I wanted to post this image in a separate post.

Please excuse the ROUGH approximation of what I'm talking about, but I whipped together this in photoshop quickly and I like it better for the reason that it would probably be cheaper and also it's not as ridiculous, over-the-top as the inspiration piece. Plus, pearls are awesome.

Maybe there's a bit more creative way to set the pearls (or, truth be told, I don't know how possible it would even be to put pearls in this location , but I think the spacing between the branches of the flake REALLY helps.

 

[AV_]

Has to be said: water snowflakes always have six points (true regardless, so it hardly matters! - attempted humour)

Tom Herman of Seven Fingers Jewelry https://www.sevenfingers.com/index.html

This would be such a dream !

 

[Doc_1]

If anyone in this world will do this project right and best next to the original it is Pablo Cimadevila
http://www.pablocimadevila.com
Contact him and get a quote.

 

[AprilBaby]

We are all delusional. I will take one of each please.

 

[LLJsmom]

Apologies if the double post is a big no-no, but I wanted to post this image in a separate post.

Please excuse the ROUGH approximation of what I'm talking about, but I whipped together this in photoshop quickly and I like it better for the reason that it would probably be cheaper and also it's not as ridiculous, over-the-top as the inspiration piece. Plus, pearls are awesome.

Maybe there's a bit more creative way to set the pearls (or, truth be told, I don't know how possible it would even be to put pearls in this location , but I think the spacing between the branches of the flake REALLY helps.

This is lovely. However I would guess this piece made from scratch by a well skilled artisan would cost more than $8K.

 

[amoline]

I will keep you all in the loop! I heard back from another PS vendor, pre-pearl version, giving a quote of 10k - so, getting in the right general direction at least.

I will absolutely check out Pablo!