Help me decide which red stone to set!

[Chasiu]

I can't make up my mind on anything lately, so coming to PS for help on which red gem to set next! Recently, I purchased a pair of of ~4.7mm OECs for a 3-stone diamond ring project, but the jeweler found another similar pair that worked, so now I have a spare pair of diamonds. I was all ready to return it if it didn't work out, but I took one look and decided to keep them lol. Anyway, I have no shortage of gems that still need to be set, so I started pairing them with some of my red stones that are also dying to be worn.

The top 2 on my list right now are a set of 3 smaller Burmese red spinels and a pinkish red Burmese ruby. All happen to be purchased through Desert Rose.



Spinels
The pair of emerald cuts are 0.80ct (4.3 x 3.4mm) and the oval is 0.42ct (4.8 x 3.7mm); so they are close enough in size that I could set them together though the oval is ever so slightly more pinkish that the emeralds, which look almost neon red. Are they Jedi? I don't really know, but they are super sparkly and almost neon to me. I've literally had the emerald spinels sitting on my desk every day while working from home for the past 2.5 years, then I acquired the oval about 8 months ago. I think all 5 stones together would make an amazing colorful band; I could imagine an antique Victorian style half hoop with some fancy scrollwork, or maybe a simple shared prong band with engraving?

 

[Chasiu]

Ruby

While Desert Rose was in Tucson earlier this year, she managed to find 2 untreated rubies that I quickly snatched up. This one is certified as a Burmese unheated ruby weighing 1.76ct and measuring 7.2 x 6.0mm. It's definitely more on the pinkish end of the spectrum but the fluorescence is so good. The proportions actually look really good to me and provide a pretty good amount of spread for my chubby size 7 ring finger. If I didn't set it with the OECs, given the size, I could go in a lot of different directions like a nice chunky halo or larger statement ring.







Just as an FYI, the other ruby I purchased is currently with GIA getting certed, but it is smaller but more of a pure red with a little bit of purple. When I get it back, I'm sure I'll have more photos

I keep switching the stones around to see what looks better, but it just makes me wish I had more loose diamonds laying around lol. What do you all think?

 

[Autumn in New England]

Oh man, this is hard!!!!!! If you twisted my arm to make me choose one, I would go with the spinel/diamond band. I think they match splendidly. And when you do set the ruby, I personally feel it looks best facing north-south. Beautimous stones... congrats on these fabulous upcoming projects!

 

[Chasiu]

Been trying for the last hour to get a decent daylight photo of the ruby, but it always just looks hot pink from the fluorescence in pictures. I can definitely see more red in person than the pictures imply, but it's driving me nuts that I can't capture it with my phone lol. Still nowhere near as red as the spinels though.





So I guess the spinels are the favorite so far? I think I'm leaning that way right now too, especially since they match up so well in size with the diamonds. And there are plenty of other settings I could do for the ruby, though I might prioritize the other unheated ruby over it, just because it is cleaner and closer to my ideal red. Sneak peak of the other smaller ruby, which is an unheated 0.91ct Ruby from Vietnam (next to 2 french cut silver spinels), pic also taken in at night. Daytime photos definitely make it look fuschia lol.


I'm in the process of getting a 3.3mm 5-stone OMC band made as well through Sako (as well as the 3-stone OEC ring). Stones have been purchased but still in the ideation phase at the moment. Maybe I should make it into a matching 3-ring set I also had a crazy idea of getting more OMCs and making a cluster for one of the rubies, but that would require buying more OMCs. Ahhh someone stop me lol

 

[marymm]

I think the OECs and the Spinels look the best all together -- but I do love that Ruby which I think looks great with the little square-cut diamonds!

 

[88_star]

I love the mixed cut spinels with the OEC. A bit of a twist on the Victorian half hoop! The contrast is better too IMO.

 

[dk168]

I would set the Ruby North-South in a 3-stone with the diamonds as side stones first as I like the colour of the stone.

DK

 

[budmanbudman10]

Gorgeous Vietnam ruby! Same vendor for that stone?

 

[KeepStepping]

These are beautiful. What a nice decision to have to make! I’d love to see the spinels set with the half hoop design. That is a dreamy set.

 

[Chasiu]

Gorgeous Vietnam ruby! Same vendor for that stone?

Thank you! Desert Rose found it at the Tucson show as well, but I don't think it was the same dealer who had the Burmese ruby. I saw it in her stories and messaged really fast lol. Can't wait until I can get it back from GIA!

 

[voce]

Am I the only one who doesn't like the shapes of the 5-stone option?

My vote is the ruby for sure, considering...

I don't think you have the proper cut of gem for the outermost spinels. I think you should use only round or oval if you're going to set spinels outside the OECs. Emerald cuts tend to be deeper cut than rounds and ovals. It would feel so weird to my finger if more weight was on the sides to accommodate a pair of deeper cut gems, or else to make sure the top of the center oval spinel was on the same "level" as the emerald cuts, you'd have to set the center gem higher than the side gems. In my opinion my finger would be bothered by the imbalance, as I prefer the weight of the ring to be centered.

 

[Chasiu]

Am I the only one who doesn't like the shapes of the 5-stone option?

My vote is the ruby for sure, considering...

I don't think you have the proper cut of gem for the outermost spinels. I think you should use only round or oval if you're going to set spinels outside the OECs. Emerald cuts tend to be deeper cut than rounds and ovals. It would feel so weird to my finger if more weight was on the sides to accommodate a pair of deeper cut gems, or else to make sure the top of the center oval spinel was on the same "level" as the emerald cuts, you'd have to set the center gem higher than the side gems. In my opinion my finger would be bothered by the imbalance, as I prefer the weight of the ring to be centered.

Interesting take on this. In theory, each of the Emerald cuts is the same weight as the Oval or less if the Oval alone is .42ct and the total weight of the Emerald pair is .80ct (so .40ct each, give or take). For the depth difference, visually the Emeralds are definitely less than 1 mm deeper than the Oval. I've seen both curved and more level half hoop settings, but ultimately I'm not sure it would feel imbalanced in terms of weight? Looking at it from top-down, it could possibly seem like it is "heavier" on the edges since it is a step cut versus all the other rounder stones.

 

[Chasiu]

Ahh I just purchased a new cushion shaped red spinel (5.4 x 4.8mm) that Desert Rose posted this morning. It should fit nicely as the center in the 5-stone layout, for a nice graduated profile. Will post more when I have it in hand lol. Why did red have to be my weakness

 

[voce]

Ahh I just purchased a new cushion shaped red spinel (5.4 x 4.8mm) that Desert Rose posted this morning. It should fit nicely as the center in the 5-stone layout, for a nice graduated profile. Will post more when I have it in hand lol. Why did red have to be my weakness

Red is my weakness, too! Looking at which stones I've set vs which I haven't, I'm definitely setting my red colors faster than other colors.

I will say, however, that something about the initial layout seemed inharmonious to me, with the emerald cuts seeming to have more presence and drawing my eye away from the center stone. Maybe it was three different shapes of gems that made it too busy? I love your new layout with a cushion (similar rectangular shape if not exact same cut) as that looks so much more harmonious to my eye.

 

[Chasiu]

Red is my weakness, too! Looking at which stones I've set vs which I haven't, I'm definitely setting my red colors faster than other colors.

I will say, however, that something about the initial layout seemed inharmonious to me, with the emerald cuts seeming to have more presence and drawing my eye away from the center stone. Maybe it was three different shapes of gems that made it too busy? I love your new layout with a cushion (similar rectangular shape if not exact same cut) as that looks so much more harmonious to my eye.

You know, this did bother me too initially, which is I wasn't fully sold on the original 5-stone layout. Perhaps if the oval were larger, it wouldn't have been as big an issue, but even with equal dimensions, the elliptical nature of the shape makes it look smaller than the boxy rectangles. Clearly the solution was to get a bigger squarer stone haha.

 

[budmanbudman10]

Thank you! Desert Rose found it at the Tucson show as well, but I don't think it was the same dealer who had the Burmese ruby. I saw it in her stories and messaged really fast lol. Can't wait until I can get it back from GIA!

Exciting! Hope GIA works quick on it haha

 

[Chasiu]

The new cushion spinel arrived today, and it's almost pure red To the point where it is making the emerald cuts a little orange / pink in overcast natural sunlight lol But I do think the ratio looks much better.





There are a few naturals on the pavilion facets and one on a crown facet near the girdle, but the cushion is so very bright and that you don't notice it at all. The color difference is noticeable enough to me in person, but I'm thinking that once it is set in YG, it wouldn't be as obvious (and in different lighting).

 

[voce]

@Chasiu I think you don't need the emerald-cut spinels on the side. The middle three stones command so much attention that while the emerald cuts are nice, they almost look a bit superfluous. Would they work better as a three-stone ring with the oval spinel from before? Emerald cuts E-W and oval spinel N-S.

 

[Chasiu]

The cushion could definitely be in a 3-stone setting without emeralds for sure. I'm considering it right now lol. I don't know that I like the look of the NS Oval with EW Emeralds though, at least not in a ring. Some other ideas that came across my mind at some point:

- Use all 3 in the same layout as the original post but with 4 smaller melee diamonds (pair of melee stacked NS between the spinels) instead of the OECs
- Use all 3 in a pendant
- Use all 3 in a navette style ring surrounded by rose cut diamonds
- Emerald pair in a bypass ring,
- Emerald pair into a set of dangly earrings. While I love earrings, I hate that I can't see them without a mirror. Though if I had a matching oval, I would totally make an Oval red spinel - French cut silver spinel - Emerald dangly earring
- All 3 in a flush set bangle or bezelled bracelet, but I don't wear those often

 

[Chasiu]

Finally got my VN ruby back from GIA. They confirmed there was no evidence of heat treatment, color is Purplish Red, but they think that the origin is Mozambique Not a huge deal to me, as I still really like the stone itself and it was more to confirm that there was indeed no treatments. I'm certainly no expert on characteristics of rubies from either location, but it doesn't seem like most other MZ rubies I (or Desert Rose) have seen.

In any case! I tried to get some pics of the rubies against the new red spinel as soon as I got home. My phone camera just does not pick up the ruby color accurately at all compared to the spinel lol. The spinel is definitely the closest to pure red, the VN ruby is a beautiful shade of -slightly- purplish red, and the Burmese ruby is pinkish red with red flashes (but not nearly as hot pink as it appears in the photo).







Right now, I'm thinking that I'll make
- the red spinel with the 2 OECs into a yellow gold 3-stone. Not sure if I want to do a prong setting or maybe a gypsy style ring (the OECs actually came from a gypsy ring with a really banged up ruby)
- the VN ruby will probably be set in a chunky OMC cluster setting (how dreamy ), or Art Deco style double halo with some filigree or calibre cut rubies, to really pump up the red
- and the Burmese ruby could be a really good size pendant (more halos lol)

This is going to be a year full of projects!

 

[voce]

Finally got my VN ruby back from GIA. They confirmed there was no evidence of heat treatment, color is Purplish Red, but they think that the origin is Mozambique Not a huge deal to me, as I still really like the stone itself and it was more to confirm that there was indeed no treatments. I'm certainly no expert on characteristics of rubies from either location, but it doesn't seem like most other MZ rubies I (or Desert Rose) have seen.

In any case! I tried to get some pics of the rubies against the new red spinel as soon as I got home. My phone camera just does not pick up the ruby color accurately at all compared to the spinel lol. The spinel is definitely the closest to pure red, the VN ruby is a beautiful shade of -slightly- purplish red, and the Burmese ruby is pinkish red with red flashes (but not nearly as hot pink as it appears in the photo).







Right now, I'm thinking that I'll make
- the red spinel with the 2 OECs into a yellow gold 3-stone. Not sure if I want to do a prong setting or maybe a gypsy style ring (the OECs actually came from a gypsy ring with a really banged up ruby)
- the VN ruby will probably be set in a chunky OMC cluster setting (how dreamy ), or Art Deco style double halo with some filigree or calibre cut rubies, to really pump up the red
- and the Burmese ruby could be a really good size pendant (more halos lol)

This is going to be a year full of projects!

Sounds like an excellent plan to me!

I also have trouble photographing my red rings with my phone these days. The Google Pixel 3 camera was near perfect for me, as I have a lot of red stones. Then I "upgraded" to Pixel 6, which is supposedly better for photographing humans, but it's a downgrade for photographing gems. My red, red rubies either show up too dark or pinkish, and the new software makes it harder for me to really adjust it post-photo.

 

[Chasiu]

Sounds like an excellent plan to me!

I also have trouble photographing my red rings with my phone these days. The Google Pixel 3 camera was near perfect for me, as I have a lot of red stones. Then I "upgraded" to Pixel 6, which is supposedly better for photographing humans, but it's a downgrade for photographing gems. My red, red rubies either show up too dark or pinkish, and the new software makes it harder for me to really adjust it post-photo.

I also have the Pixel (7)! Honestly I dislike that the color temperature keeps changing on its own so much. I find myself trying to "color correct" by including objects of primary colors in the outer edges of the photo to make it look normal.

More photos because I can't stop trying to think of layouts:

VN Ruby with 4.3mm round lavender spinels, to get an idea of how large the cluster ring could be. I'm thinking ~3.5mm is probably a better proportion.


I have a small pair of 2.7mm unheated Madagascar rubies (which are a gorgeous red with a drop of pink and super bright) that I got ages ago from The Gem Trader. If only I could throw magic dust and make them bigger lol. I'm going to try and incorporate them on the shoulders of the ruby cluster ring. This is probably the closest to actual color ruby color I'll ever get (it's still not that purple!!).


One of the inspiration rings:


Can't get 5-stones out of my head, here is the red spinel with the ruby pair.


This is the original setting for the OECs.. I wouldn't mind recreating it with the red spinel. But still can't get that carved half hoop out of my head (whether it's a 3-stone or 5-stone version with more OECs lol)


Still need to figure out what to do with these guys. Maybe put all of them EW in a band with melee diamonds in between, or halo them all??




I probably spent a couple of hours last night gathering all the photos and ideas into a document, to start getting quotes from jewelers. Now just need to let the wallet recover a bit, while waiting for some other diamond projects to finish

 

[maru8888777]

Beautiful gems! I also love red gems . The gemtrader rubies are beautiful, and that spinel cushion is so bright and RED!
You have all the makings of a set if you wanted to save the other three spinels for earrings and a pendant...

 

[Chasiu]

An update on my red stone journey! I've posted some of these photos on other threads but figured I would consolidate them here.

Burmese ruby: Last month, I found a stock pear side setting from ID Jewelry for it. Sometimes she is hot pink, sometimes she is more red, but either way my phone camera just can't seem to do her justice!



Vietnamese ruby: Sako from Cicada Jewelry is also working on a Plat/YG cluster ring setting, which will have a halo of 8 x 3.3m OMC diamonds and 2 more OMC sides. The stones should be set this week!




Red Spinel (Cushion): Originally I was planning to set it in a 3-stone band with the pair of OECs, after I finished setting the two rubies. Recently, I picked up another pair of OECs that are the same size as the first... so now I'm thinking of making it into a chunky 5-stone anniversary band The OECs are ~4.7mm each and the Spinel is 4.8mm wide, so a decently close match.


Jedi Spinel suite: TBH I'm still not totally sure what to do with these! Been kind of thinking of a yellow gold bangle lately, as I have started to wear bracelets a little more often.

I picked up some more loose stones in the interim (a small Muzo emerald, some spinels, some mined and lab diamonds; ughhh I need to stop), but really wanted to set the red ones first. After the 2nd ruby, I'll probably start reaching out to some people on the spinel/OEC five stone, and then next up is a pear diamond & emerald Toi et Moi

 

[Mrsz1ppy]

An update on my red stone journey! I've posted some of these photos on other threads but figured I would consolidate them here.

Burmese ruby: Last month, I found a stock pear side setting from ID Jewelry for it. Sometimes she is hot pink, sometimes she is more red, but either way my phone camera just can't seem to do her justice!



Vietnamese ruby: Sako from Cicada Jewelry is also working on a Plat/YG cluster ring setting, which will have a halo of 8 x 3.3m OMC diamonds and 2 more OMC sides. The stones should be set this week!




Red Spinel (Cushion): Originally I was planning to set it in a 3-stone band with the pair of OECs, after I finished setting the two rubies. Recently, I picked up another pair of OECs that are the same size as the first... so now I'm thinking of making it into a chunky 5-stone anniversary band The OECs are ~4.7mm each and the Spinel is 4.8mm wide, so a decently close match.


Jedi Spinel suite: TBH I'm still not totally sure what to do with these! Been kind of thinking of a yellow gold bangle lately, as I have started to wear bracelets a little more often.

I picked up some more loose stones in the interim (a small Muzo emerald, some spinels, some mined and lab diamonds; ughhh I need to stop), but really wanted to set the red ones first. After the 2nd ruby, I'll probably start reaching out to some people on the spinel/OEC five stone, and then next up is a pear diamond & emerald Toi et Moi

Thanks for the update! I’m enjoying your journey.

 

[Chasiu]

Literally just received the package from Sako less than 30 minutes ago, but I wanted to share the completed ruby OMC cluster ring

The ruby is bezel set, surrounded by 8 prong-set OMCs, and 2 additional OMCs in the shoulders (total 1.84ct of diamonds). Top is platinum and shank is 18k YG.










The ruby still looks so much pinker in pictures than real life, but the fluorescence does come out in the sun. And I loooove the chunky halo, and you can see all colors of the rainbow in the culets haha.

It's nice and sunny today, so will try to take some more photos outdoors. And I'm sure I'll be wearing it all weekend long - to document for science of course.

And another update - I have sent off the small pair of emerald cut Jedi spinels to CvB. She will be setting them into double halo Spring Gulch earring charms!

 

[elizat]

He did a beautiful job! Love the ring. Details are so pretty.

 

[LilAlex]

I love the "gaps" -- has a very flower-petal/asterisk look to it instead of the usual halo echoing the center stone. Perfect for this size stone and this level of color-contrast (halo vs. center stone)!

 

[Chasiu]

I love the "gaps" -- has a very flower-petal/asterisk look to it instead of the usual halo echoing the center stone. Perfect for this size stone and this level of color-contrast (halo vs. center stone)!

That was kind of what I was going for; didn't want halo to be perfectly oval, but rather allow the shape of the OMCs to come through and look more like "petals" around the ruby. I love the contrast of the red to the super white stones, and the hint of yellow from the cuffs/shank. it really stands out to my eyes. And the teensy milgrain so amazing.

Another shot of the ring today, next to some chrysanthemums we just purchased for the yard. For some reason, my phone thinks the purple ones are the same color

 

[Chasiu]

Finally set my pair of jedi spinels, in some 14k YG CvB Spring Gulch double halo earring charms


They arrived at FedEx today and I raced over so I could put them on before I had to go out to pick up the kids from school lol. So of course as I am walking, I'm trying to subtly take selfies down the street.



Seriously only 1 out of like 15 were actually focused, so tried again when I got home.





They just glow like crazy, and my phone camera can't do it justice at all.

So the only red stones left to go are the single oval spinel and the cushion + OEC ring. I'll probably send off the cushion and diamonds in January, to let my wallet recover a bit lol. I was talking to Anoop from Jewels by Jogani last week at the NY Antique Jewelry Show, and I might want to get another spinel 5-stone made at some point (he had an amazing 5-stone Burmese ruby ring on display that was wayyyy out of budget), but we'll see!