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Final CADs for incredible rose cut diamond - thoughts wanted!

pearaffair

pearaffair

Ideal_Rock
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Jun 15, 2015
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My friend found her rose cut and is finalizing her custom engagement ring! Exciting!

Specs: 8.2mm F VS1 rose cut diamond, 1.8mm tall:

d1.JPG d2.JPG d3.JPG

- she loves rose cuts and has seen them in person
- she wants to be able to see through the rose cut to her finger and feels 100% certain on this
- she wants bezel and claws
- she wants delicate as can be (if 1mm were possible, she would do it)
- she has picked a designer and is not changing
- she likes the prongs on the outside

Now the inspiration pics and render:

She likes these claws:

i1.PNG i2.PNG i3.PNG

She likes this milgrain:

m1.PNG

She likes this side profile:
p1.PNG

And this is the CAD:

8mmrosecut.png

Questions or comments welcome! Keeping in mind my friend's preferences. Thank you!
 
PS her finger is size 3.5 (lucky duck!) and the job will be completed in 14k gold.
 
That looks pretty bang on with all the things she likes - I was going to ask if a knife-edge would suit her desire for as thin as possible since they're visually very thin and she could migrain the top edge?
 
I don't have a clue when it comes to CADs. :confused:

Just want to say the stone is beautiful!
The finished ring will be lovely!
 
Are they doing the millgrain by hand or will it be cast with millgrain. Maybe sure it's not the later.
 
The prongs need more finesse. It may be due to the fact they will be doing finishing work after it's cast, this appears to be very rough cads. But the second to the last pic, see how at the bottom of the prongs they taper inward as not to look blocky? Her prongs should do that too
 
Niel said:
Are they doing the millgrain by hand or will it be cast with millgrain. Maybe sure it's not the later.
Click to expand...

I think it will be cast. Would you mind explaining some of the differences between cast and hand-dons milgrain?

Niel said:
Can she afford 18k?
Click to expand...

Yes, but she prefers the colour of 14k. Go figure!

Niel said:
The prongs need more finesse. It may be due to the fact they will be doing finishing work after it's cast, this appears to be very rough cads. But the second to the last pic, see how at the bottom of the prongs they taper inward as not to look blocky? Her prongs should do that too
Click to expand...

Excellent catch!
 
Well cast will not look small and delicate like her inspection picture and can sometimes even end up looking more like beads than actually millgrain
This is an image from a jeweler that offers both options. So this is meant to show the difference between hand millgrain (left) and GOOD cast millgrain (right) and the difference is obvious. I don't know if this jeweler's cast millgrain will be good either, so it could be worse than that too.
Hand-vs-Cast-3.jpg
 
I would make the shank 2mm, personally, because 2mm is still very thin. I also would go a little more than 1.5mm in shank height (maybe 1.8). What she has is a little flimsy and I'd be worried about it going out of round. Not to mention, gold wears away over time. I see you said she likes 14k, but I'd be sure she understand that that is just a little over half gold. I'd always want 18k for a special piece like an engagement ring or wedding band in the case of yellow gold. It just looks richer and I think will be prettier with the stone, which is beautiful!
 
Beautiful stone! I agree with the advice already given and would also, imho, add that it would look nice with at least a 2 mm band.
 
Gorgeous stone & the design is beautiful too. I would also agree with DS & ACAW2015 that the shank width be bumped up to at least 2mm. I think 1.8mm is just a hair too thin for gold. I like at least 2.0mm. 1.8mm is very narrow.

Judy
:-)
 
Beautiful stone. I would only do milgrain after the fact, not cast milgrain.

Even though she likes thin bands, I don't think a knife edge will combine well with that basket setting, but that's just me....the band as designed will look more antique. (Hope they are going to claw the prongs....)
 
whitewave said:
My shanks are 2mm and that is the smallest Caysie would go. You can go see the pics on the post
Click to expand...
The porosity of a pave band requires more mm width to remain stable. A plain band can go thinner. My Tiffany rope band is 1.7 or 1.8 I can't remember. I've neglected posting this because I worry 1.8 would be too think when combined with a diamond, where mine is just a band, but they do make rings that mm.
 
Niel said:
The porosity of a pave band requires more mm width to remain stable. A plain band can go thinner. My Tiffany rope band is 1.7 or 1.8 I can't remember. I've neglected posting this because I worry 1.8 would be too think when combined with a diamond, where mine is just a band, but they do make rings that mm.
Click to expand...

All good points. I've strongly recommended 2mm to my friend (many times and for many reasons) but she's pretty wedded to the idea of 1.8! Or thinner! But 1.8 I think is as thin as she will go and either it will be fine, or a learning experience.
 
If she insists on 1.8 id suggest both a width and thickness of 1.8. I see her thickness now is 1.5
 
A lot of the 1.6mm rings with pave that have been handmade have people on here coming back and reporting they have bent out of shape or have been destroyed easily. That's why we recommend a thicker size. I think it depends if its a wear every day in which case it needs to be thicker or a delicate wear only occasionally type ring and where she only wears it sporadically and makes sure she looks after it when she wears it.
 
Beautiful. Is here rose cut an antique stone or newly cut. I would think an F would be hard to find in a really old stone? However I am saying that as round Old European Cut's are usually recut if they were antique and high color but would they have recut rose cuts as there are no other cuts of their shape without the pavilion?

Does anyone know if rose cuts are available in high colors on the antique market?
 
Niel said:
If she insists on 1.8 id suggest both a width and thickness of 1.8. I see her thickness now is 1.5
Click to expand...

I have passed that along to her. We'll see what happens! It's so hard to not just design the ring for her! I wish!! ;)

arkieb1 said:
A lot of the 1.6mm rings with pave that have been handmade have people on here coming back and reporting they have bent out of shape or have been destroyed easily. That's why we recommend a thicker size. I think it depends if its a wear every day in which case it needs to be thicker or a delicate wear only occasionally type ring and where she only wears it sporadically and makes sure she looks after it when she wears it.
Click to expand...

Yep. I've seen it a million times. Both online and when I worked in person at a store. I even linked her to the super long thread on here about thin bands and designers allowing them and who is to blame etc. Shrug. I feel like I've presented the information so that she can make an educated decision.

pyramid said:
Beautiful. Is here rose cut an antique stone or newly cut. I would think an F would be hard to find in a really old stone? However I am saying that as round Old European Cut's are usually recut if they were antique and high color but would they have recut rose cuts as there are no other cuts of their shape without the pavilion?

Does anyone know if rose cuts are available in high colors on the antique market?
Click to expand...

It's a brand new cut! She had looked at antique rose cuts but they were often not close to flawless in cut balance, colour, or inclusions. She bought from Aneuva Jeweley.
 
IMG_0870.JPG My friends wants to lower the setting. How many mm of clearance does she need to have comfort etc?
 
There are so many great points posted, here. I hope your friend will reconsider her decision to stretch her band too thin, otherwise, it just may be a huge mistake! She has very tiny fingers, and a 2mm band isn't going to look chunky...esp not in a setting designed the way she would like it, above! That stone looks considerable against her hand; budging & increasing the width shouldn't take away from that. I understand her idea: floating rose Cut stone. Trust me, she's not going to lose presence, or steal the show from the diamond by widening that band for durability. She really should compromise appearance for integrity of the metal. Her ring is going to be gorgeous. I'd hate for it to get damaged because the band is too thin.
You're a good friend, Pearaffair. Kudos to you for helping her create her dream ring!!! :D
CRM
 
Matthews1127 said:
There are so many great points posted, here. I hope your friend will reconsider her decision to stretch her band too thin, otherwise, it just may be a huge mistake! She has very tiny fingers, and a 2mm band isn't going to look chunky...esp not in a setting designed the way she would like it, above! That stone looks considerable against her hand; budging & increasing the width shouldn't take away from that. I understand her idea: floating rose Cut stone. Trust me, she's not going to lose presence, or steal the show from the diamond by widening that band for durability. She really should compromise appearance for integrity of the metal. Her ring is going to be gorgeous. I'd hate for it to get damaged because the band is too thin.
You're a good friend, Pearaffair. Kudos to you for helping her create her dream ring!!! :D
CRM
Click to expand...

I honestly think she would rather replace the whole band one day than start with it at 2mm. Shrug.
 
IMG_1162.JPG Updated CAD.

Does a sizing bar have to be put in in advance? Or could she not just have the Milgrain continue all around and if she needed it resized, then the sizing bar could be put in then?

I also notice that the height of the band width is 1.5mm... seems unnecessarily delicate.

I think the prongs are looking better!

As always, I'd love to know your thoughts!
 
So the millgrain will be cad? I am not the biggest fan of that decision still. Yes there is no reason to add a sizing bar. One will be automatically added if for some reason in the future it needs to be sized. Millgrain by hand all the way around would be my request

Does she need it set so high? Is she planning to wear a band with this? If she is, does she want to see the metal of the band under the diamond on one side? If not, it needs to be set closer to the finger as to not allow a band under the side.
 
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