Evaluating jadeite (feicui)

[Bookwyrm]

You are too kind, @Bookwyrm .
Have you posted in the diamonds thread? I’m sure there are PSers who could help wrt the grey. Have you seen the stone in person?
So glad you like my ruby ring. Yes, it is a romantic design, inspired by Belle Epoque. It is a large, heavy and high ring. I seldom wear it.
I haven’t seen a lot of fancy-colored diamonds. I’ve looked at them in MusZa https://www.mus-za.com/, On Cheong, Fonder Diamond and Diamonds by Lauren, at gem shows and also online.
I learnt that it’s much safer to buy those that are not yet set because it is quite common that the base of coloured diamonds is also coloured to fake a more intense shade.

Ooo did you design your ruby setting yourself? Do you happen to have more pictures of your ruby ring, or other belle epoch inspired pieces you own or have saved? I'd love to see!

I did make a post in the diamonds forum, and received quite a bit of feedback on what to look out for and additional videos to ask for before buying. I'm still not quite sure what's causing those grey shadow-like areas, but I will definitely request some more videos in additional lighting, videos with more tilt movement and maybe a rotating video. I haven't seen this diamond in person as it's located in the US and I'm in Australia. Thank you for sharing those websites - I'll have a look at them too!

I've heard there's techniques like electroplating and enamelling that can make even a light pink look intense pink! I think it's important that vendors be very transparent about colour enhancement processes like these when it comes to pre-set coloured diamomnds.

 

[Bookwyrm]

The pink marquise is lovely. I love the pink lemonade combination.

Oh I forgot to mention, that setting with the yellow pear sidestones wasn't actually made for this marquise. It was made for a different stone but happened to somewhat fit the marquise I'm looking at so the vendor took a video to give me an idea of what it would look like in a setting. I actually quite like this setting design with its halo gap, but I'd definitely go with colourless pears as sidestones instead.

Although, I think a pink diamond would look so romantic in a belle epoch style setting! I just don't know of any jewellers that do belle epoch reproductions. But I haven't even decided on a stone yet so probably too early to think about settings

 

[Crimson]

I saw an interesting post by Classic Jade today. The pair of earrings below is glassy jadeite of very high quality. In the best glassy jadeite cabochons one can see what’s called the “black” and “white” areas of the jadeite. It is also called the opening and closing of the eye because when the cabochon is moved, the brighter area seems to go over the dark.

To answer @Bookwyrm I bought my Crimson ruby ring as is. It was one of the star designer (one of a kind) pieces at a jewellery exhibition before I became a jewellery fan. Somehow. no one bought it and I did so only about years later. So I don’t have any diagrams but here are some photos of the ring from various angles.

 

[MMtwo]

What beautiful icy earrings!

Loved your description of the Classic Jade shop. Without a doubt I would love it. I appreciate your lovely description. Very vivid, I would almost imagine being there. I loved seeing their online merchandise. I love to support small community minded shops, too.

Following up on a couple of items. First is the little microscope my daughter sent. It's a simple USB plug in, with a secondary USB-c. You can view it on a computer as an auxiliary camera, as well as the provided screen. The unit is rechargeable, too. I have enjoyed increasing the visibility of my collection. I don't know what I am doing all the time, but it is so much fun to see the details, something I no longer take for granted with older eyes.


Also, there is some sad news on the green bi. It has decided to disappear. The lab reports the box was empty. It was sent in a sealed Postal Service bubble envelope that was undisturbed when received. In no way do I think the lab is dishonest or did anything. They quite obviously hated this too, and felt bad for me.

So this comes down to me and a probable senior moment. My husband and I went through the whole house, took the trash apart twic, moved furniture, books...everything, and no bi. And no bi at the lab...so what the heck happened? I don't know, but I feel rather sad and heart-sick. There was one very long shot possibility, as I returned some shoes on the day it was sent out and maybe it fell into the box? I reached out to their customer care, but at this point, guess I will bless it and assume the universe distributed it to a new home. Agh, but now I will never know if it was treated.

I guess on a happier note, I did buy a couple more things from Kathy Jade...one being the spicy noodle (snake) pendant that shocked my husband a bit, and another dark green but saturated bead necklace.



Oh, and this item was not the same as I saw on screen, so it is returning. It sort of dissappears into my skintone.

 

[SparklieBug]

Such a bummer about the missing bi!

 

[mellowyellowgirl]

Oh I’m so sorry about the missing bi @MMtwo

I love the drop you’re returning. Yup I can see that it’s definitely merged with your skin tone but it’s so beautiful and watery!

 

[MMtwo]

Oh I’m so sorry about the missing bi @MMtwo

I love the drop you’re returning. Yup I can see that it’s definitely merged with your skin tone but it’s so beautiful and watery!

It will be back in Taiwan with Kathy Jade on Monday and is not too expensive. Love the bright little flowers. Icy is lovely but just too pale for me. no fault of the jade.

The shipping is rather expensive. List shipping to Taiwan UPS was 200 USD!, but through a shipping service, was only 45 USD to ship UPS. Cheapest shipping was about 35 through post office, but could take weeks.

 

[MMtwo]

Such a bummer about the missing bi!

Thank you, it really is! Hoping it turns up but I am doubtful.

 

[Crimson]

Oh dear @MMtwo i’m so sorry and so sad to hear that the bi pendant disappeared. What a shock it must have been. I can identify with the desperate feeling of searching the house and asking everywhere, because I’ve lost pieces too. I even bought a metal detector.

I am so glad you have some other new pieces. I love how you bought the snake despite your husband‘s reservations. I think it’s very attractive. Besides, snakes have a good meaning in Chinese culture.. They are considered cousins to dragons so they are auspicious, smart and flexible. The necklace is very striking! It will contrast well with your skin tone, unlike the drop pendant. I have the same problem with these lightly colored, watery pieces. They just melt into my skin.

Thank you for sharing about the microscope! I’m going to get one for myself. So excited

Just one more thought …I’m not good at finding my own lost pieces, but I’ve found others’ lost pieces. Once my aunt lost a diamond bracelet. She wore it on holiday, so she thought it must be somewhere between London and Singapore. She even called the airline and hotel, and ransacked her home but to no avail. A year later we were having tea at her home when she brought out some of her jewelry to show me, just for fun. After some browsing and chatting. I spotted a little pouch and I asked her if I could open it. She said yes, and there was the bracelet! So I wonder if there’s someone else not from your home who could help. Sometimes when we look, we look in the usual places even though in our minds, we have looked everywhere.

 

[Autumn in New England]

What beautiful icy earrings!

Loved your description of the Classic Jade shop. Without a doubt I would love it. I appreciate your lovely description. Very vivid, I would almost imagine being there. I loved seeing their online merchandise. I love to support small community minded shops, too.

Following up on a couple of items. First is the little microscope my daughter sent. It's a simple USB plug in, with a secondary USB-c. You can view it on a computer as an auxiliary camera, as well as the provided screen. The unit is rechargeable, too. I have enjoyed increasing the visibility of my collection. I don't know what I am doing all the time, but it is so much fun to see the details, something I no longer take for granted with older eyes.


Also, there is some sad news on the green bi. It has decided to disappear. The lab reports the box was empty. It was sent in a sealed Postal Service bubble envelope that was undisturbed when received. In no way do I think the lab is dishonest or did anything. They quite obviously hated this too, and felt bad for me.

So this comes down to me and a probable senior moment. My husband and I went through the whole house, took the trash apart twic, moved furniture, books...everything, and no bi. And no bi at the lab...so what the heck happened? I don't know, but I feel rather sad and heart-sick. There was one very long shot possibility, as I returned some shoes on the day it was sent out and maybe it fell into the box? I reached out to their customer care, but at this point, guess I will bless it and assume the universe distributed it to a new home. Agh, but now I will never know if it was treated.

I guess on a happier note, I did buy a couple more things from Kathy Jade...one being the spicy noodle (snake) pendant that shocked my husband a bit, and another dark green but saturated bead necklace.



Oh, and this item was not the same as I saw on screen, so it is returning. It sort of dissappears into my skintone.

Oh dear... I hate to hear that. Which lab? Did the package say anything about "gem" on it (as in Gemological Institute of America, etc.)? Are you certain the package couldn't have been opened and resealed? Like you said, I doubt the lab is pulling any funny business. I had a FedEx package stolen (I wrote only AGL on it, but it's not difficult to decipher what's inside when you're a delivery person). It was a Saturday, and I was told weekend courier employees are often temps who are less reliable. I've never shipped again with a possible weekend delivery attempt. Did you insure it? I sure hope she turns up.

Oh a happier note, lovely neck pieces!!

 

[empliau]

Possibly reposting: Kevin Kwan (best known as the author of Crazy Rich Asians) showed a family heirloom ring he describes as Imperial Jade in the New York Times.

Kevin Kwan’s Art Deco Heirloom

The author, who received the ring from his favorite aunt, described himself as its custodian “for this generation.”

www.nytimes.com

 

[Crimson]

Thank you for sharing, @empliau. It is nice that he loves this heirloom. The jadeite in the ring is not imperial green, as all of us on this thread know. But in his defence, he only called it imperial Jade. Maybe he meant that this jade was bought during the imperial era.
Marquise shapes (not lozenge as he called it) were fashionable. My MIL has one, too.
The imperial green jade that we love today was not the prevailing fashion about 100 years ago. For one, the deposits had not been mined so extensively. The material on the market was quite different. There was less emphasis on water, more on colour and size. Carvings were popular, too.
Below are a few vintage marquise-shaped Jade rings, just for fun. I think the second one doesn’t seem to be jadeite. It looks like spinach green, nephrite, and you can see that the surface has many small pits.
The last photo is of a pair of present day, retro-style earrings.

Do you like any of the items below?

 

[empliau]

@Crimson - I like the first and third ring, although my only knowledge of jade is thanks to you and this thread. - and indeed, my first reaction was "That doesn't look like Imperial Green."

I like the marquise cuts but I've found oval cabochons appeal to me more.

I do find moving the cherishing of jewels as their custodian, as Mr. Kwan is. That lovely ring is family history, and will (I hope) mean a lot to future generations.

 

[MMtwo]

Oh dear @MMtwo i’m so sorry and so sad to hear that the bi pendant disappeared. What a shock it must have been. I can identify with the desperate feeling of searching the house and asking everywhere, because I’ve lost pieces too. I even bought a metal detector.

I am so glad you have some other new pieces. I love how you bought the snake despite your husband‘s reservations. I think it’s very attractive. Besides, snakes have a good meaning in Chinese culture.. They are considered cousins to dragons so they are auspicious, smart and flexible. The necklace is very striking! It will contrast well with your skin tone, unlike the drop pendant. I have the same problem with these lightly colored, watery pieces. They just melt into my skin.

Thank you for sharing about the microscope! I’m going to get one for myself. So excited

Just one more thought …I’m not good at finding my own lost pieces, but I’ve found others’ lost pieces. Once my aunt lost a diamond bracelet. She wore it on holiday, so she thought it must be somewhere between London and Singapore. She even called the airline and hotel, and ransacked her home but to no avail. A year later we were having tea at her home when she brought out some of her jewelry to show me, just for fun. After some browsing and chatting. I spotted a little pouch and I asked her if I could open it. She said yes, and there was the bracelet! So I wonder if there’s someone else not from your home who could help. Sometimes when we look, we look in the usual places even though in our minds, we have looked everywhere.

I am so happy you will buy a microscope. No doubt you will enjoy looking at all the beautiful gems.

Luckily, my husband is somewhat flexible. I showed him the snake pendant again, and this time he agreed it was lovely, and even helped me buy it. He has been very accepting of my "jade-itis" recently. It's so wonderful when you share the cultural meanings. I do know I am a snake baby (65) but didn't know they are like dragons.

I think losing the bi sort of snapped me out of my fixation a but, which is good. We continue to search, and still no new clues.

How lucky for your aunt! Or, you were lucky for your aunt . I am so glad she found that bracelet. That would feel so good after the distress of misplacing something so valuable. When my daughter visits, I will see if she can help bring me luck too. That would be wonderful!

Oh dear... I hate to hear that. Which lab? Did the package say anything about "gem" on it (as in Gemological Institute of America, etc.)? Are you certain the package couldn't have been opened and resealed? Like you said, I doubt the lab is pulling any funny business. I had a FedEx package stolen (I wrote only AGL on it, but it's not difficult to decipher what's inside when you're a delivery person). It was a Saturday, and I was told weekend courier employees are often temps who are less reliable. I've never shipped again with a possible weekend delivery attempt. Did you insure it? I sure hope she turns up.

Oh a happier note, lovely neck pieces!!

Thank you dear Autumn. The package just had the name of the lab on it, but no "gem" or "jewelry" in the name. I hesitate to name the lab on here. I do not doubt their innocence in the situation and they are a small company that I am very glad to have in the US.

Since there is no signs of tampering, insurance will not cover it, so I am out the money. Thank you for the weekend shipping tip, I will use that going forward. I may also ship registered mail (custody chain) going forward. Just so mystified!

 

[Autumn in New England]

I am so happy you will buy a microscope. No doubt you will enjoy looking at all the beautiful gems.

Luckily, my husband is somewhat flexible. I showed him the snake pendant again, and this time he agreed it was lovely, and even helped me buy it. He has been very accepting of my "jade-itis" recently. It's so wonderful when you share the cultural meanings. I do know I am a snake baby (65) but didn't know they are like dragons.

I think losing the bi sort of snapped me out of my fixation a but, which is good. We continue to search, and still no new clues.

How lucky for your aunt! Or, you were lucky for your aunt . I am so glad she found that bracelet. That would feel so good after the distress of misplacing something so valuable. When my daughter visits, I will see if she can help bring me luck too. That would be wonderful!



Thank you dear Autumn. The package just had the name of the lab on it, but no "gem" or "jewelry" in the name. I hesitate to name the lab on here. I do not doubt their innocence in the situation and they are a small company that I am very glad to have in the US.

Since there is no signs of tampering, insurance will not cover it, so I am out the money. Thank you for the weekend shipping tip, I will use that going forward. I may also ship registered mail (custody chain) going forward. Just so mystified!

Ugh I'm so terribly sorry. Was it a high-value gem? Luckily, mine was the oldest and cheapest stone I owned (I think I paid $400 for it waaaaay back when... precision peach tourmaline). After hounding them, FedEx did give me a couple of hundred in compensation (even though I never insured it). Perhaps if you obtained a notarized statement from the lab and sent it to the courier, they may acquiesce? I might also note the starting weight of the package on the label (when accepted for shipping) and the current weight of it empty to prove you did in fact place the gem in the package. That would only work if its inner container had some heft and was also stolen (like a gem box, etc.). I doubt the weight of just the gem would even register. Yes, I'm in the legal field. lol

 

[Crimson]

@Crimson - I like the first and third ring, although my only knowledge of jade is thanks to you and this thread. - and indeed, my first reaction was "That doesn't look like Imperial Green."

I like the marquise cuts but I've found oval cabochons appeal to me more.

I do find moving the cherishing of jewels as their custodian, as Mr. Kwan is. That lovely ring is family history, and will (I hope) mean a lot to future generations.

Thank you, @empliau it has been so much fun sharing on this thread. I too prefer the oval cabs in jadeite because they show off the glow better.

 

[Crimson]

I am so happy you will buy a microscope. No doubt you will enjoy looking at all the beautiful gems.

Luckily, my husband is somewhat flexible. I showed him the snake pendant again, and this time he agreed it was lovely, and even helped me buy it. He has been very accepting of my "jade-itis" recently. It's so wonderful when you share the cultural meanings. I do know I am a snake baby (65) but didn't know they are like dragons.

I think losing the bi sort of snapped me out of my fixation a but, which is good. We continue to search, and still no new clues.

How lucky for your aunt! Or, you were lucky for your aunt . I am so glad she found that bracelet. That would feel so good after the distress of misplacing something so valuable. When my daughter visits, I will see if she can help bring me luck too. That would be wonderful!

Jade-itis! What a marvelous pun, dear @MMtwo .
Yes, I had the same feeling when I lost my pendant — voluntary ban for a while, but it didn’t last as long as I thought it would.
Thank you - I am excited about the microscope too. It is on its way!
I do hope the bi will turn up for your daughter.
If it is still not found … let me share a traditional belief. When I lost my pendant, the retail staff at On Cheong consoled me, saying maybe it wasn’t meant to be. The belief is that certain pieces of Jade are meant to be for us, while other pieces are not.
The saying is “人选玉，玉择主。玉遇有缘人” which loosely translates as “(Just as) people choose Jade, Jade chooses its owner. Jade and owner are destined to meet each other”.

 

[Starstruck8]

The imperial green jade that we love today was not the prevailing fashion about 100 years ago. For one, the deposits had not been mined so extensively. The material on the market was quite different. There was less emphasis on water, more on colour and size. Carvings were popular, too.

That's fascinating, @Crimson. Quick searching doesn't seem to turn up much on the history of jadeite appreciation, as opposed to the modern standards. No doubt the good stuff in in Chinese, which I can't read...

Was the glowy, watery, saturated green jadeite that is so highly valued today not appreciated so much 100 years or more ago? Or was it so rare that it was just a collectors' curiosity? Or was it highly valued, but so rare that only the imperial court and the wealthiest and most fanatical of collectors even got the see it?

I'm thinking of the Barbara Hutton necklace. This was - 'reputedly' - either looted from imperial stores by foreign soldiers or pilfered by corrupt officials. (Or is this just mythmaking? How would anyone know?) The beads are fantastically big and uniform. But, judging by pictures on the net (which are not consistent), they appear to be a bit less watery and less saturated than the best 'imperial green' by modern standards.

When and how did the standards change? Was it that as the Burmese mines were developed, there was more production, so more top-quality product, so more incentive to differentiate it? Was there a deliberate marketing push, or did the new standards just evolve?

 

[Bookwyrm]

I saw an interesting post by Classic Jade today. The pair of earrings below is glassy jadeite of very high quality. In the best glassy jadeite cabochons one can see what’s called the “black” and “white” areas of the jadeite. It is also called the opening and closing of the eye because when the cabochon is moved, the brighter area seems to go over the dark.

To answer @Bookwyrm I bought my Crimson ruby ring as is. It was one of the star designer (one of a kind) pieces at a jewellery exhibition before I became a jewellery fan. Somehow. no one bought it and I did so only about years later. So I don’t have any diagrams but here are some photos of the ring from various angles.

Your ring is stunning! The design is so flowy and belle epoch-esque from the top, butlooks so unique and has so much presence from the side! I can certainly see why it was one of your jeweller's star designer pieces!

I love those glassy jadeite earrings! The glow is so pretty. How do you think the glow of these types of jadeite pieces compare to moonstone? Is glassy clear jadeite glowier?

 

[Crimson]

@Starstruck88, thank you for these wonderful questions!
Jadeite was introduced to China during the Qing dynasty – 1644 to 1911. The Royals took such a liking to it that they ordered that all the available jadeite be delivered only to them.

It was only after the imperial era ended that jadeite could be obtained by non-royals. Even then, only the elite or fabulously wealthy could afford the best green pieces.
In the first rather blur photo you can see the jadeite owned by Soong Mei Ling, wife of Chiang Kai Shek. You can also see her jadeite in this video.

The second pic with the Chinese words shows a necklace that an Indonesian Chinese tycoon and philanthropist Mr Oei Tiong Ham gave to his daughter.
I have also attached a pic from Alain Truong’s site - interesting article which also mentions the royals’ hold on imperial green jadeite.

I know what you mean about the Barbara Hutton necklace. All the beads have to be cut from the same boulder. That’s quite a feat considering that even within the same boulder there are variations. it is true that they are not of the highest transparency. I have never seen a completely transparent jadeite bead necklace. of imperial green and if I did I might think it was fake. The 1 cm or more diameter of each bead, together with the fibrous texture and composite nature of jadeite make it nigh impossible.
There is also a trade-off between intensity and translucency. Considering the kinds of lighting conditions of a century ago, it was important for a jadeite necklace to look consistently green. Most Chinese women would have worn dresses with a Mandarin collar. If the jadeite was too translucent, it would look ugly or less noticeable when worn on certain colours of clothing.

Thanks for asking all these questions! Trying to answer them helped me understand some of the jewelry from my grandmother and grand aunts. When lights are low and warm, colour is paramount, but in today’s kind of lighting conditions, glassy jadeite can put on quite a show.

P.S. High translucency can be found in colourless and light blue or light green beads. It is possible to find glassy cabs because they are usually not as thick as beads.

 

[Starstruck8]

@Starstruck88, thank you for these wonderful questions!
Jadeite was introduced to China during the Qing dynasty – 1644 to 1911. The Royals took such a liking to it that they ordered that all the available jadeite be delivered only to them.

It was only after the imperial era ended that jadeite could be obtained by non-royals. Even then, only the elite or fabulously wealthy could afford the best green pieces.
In the first rather blur photo you can see the jadeite owned by Soong Mei Ling, wife of Chiang Kai Shek. You can also see her jadeite in this video.

The second pic with the Chinese words shows a necklace that an Indonesian Chinese tycoon and philanthropist Mr Oei Tiong Ham gave to his daughter.
I have also attached a pic from Alain Truong’s site - interesting article which also mentions the royals’ hold on imperial green jadeite.

I know what you mean about the Barbara Hutton necklace. All the beads have to be cut from the same boulder. That’s quite a feat considering that even within the same boulder there are variations. it is true that they are not of the highest transparency. I have never seen a completely transparent jadeite bead necklace. of imperial green and if I did I might think it was fake. The 1 cm or more diameter of each bead, together with the fibrous texture and composite nature of jadeite make it nigh impossible.
There is also a trade-off between intensity and translucency. Considering the kinds of lighting conditions of a century ago, it was important for a jadeite necklace to look consistently green. Most Chinese women would have worn dresses with a Mandarin collar. If the jadeite was too translucent, it would look ugly or less noticeable when worn on certain colours of clothing.

Thanks for asking all these questions! Trying to answer them helped me understand some of the jewelry from my grandmother and grand aunts. When lights are low and warm, colour is paramount, but in today’s kind of lighting conditions, glassy jadeite can put on quite a show.

P.S. High translucency can be found in colourless and light blue or light green beads. It is possible to find glassy cabs because they are usually not as thick as beads.

Thank you for that wonderful post, @Crimson! So much good information.

It's obvious when you think about it (but I hadn't) that if you wear a necklace over a coloured dress, less transparent beads will hold their colour better. Also, that they will show their colour more consistently in varying lighting. It's also obvious that in a single cab you can get absolute top quality, but for a necklace, uniformity is more important and harder to achieve.

 

[Starstruck8]

I love those glassy jadeite earrings! The glow is so pretty. How do you think the glow of these types of jadeite pieces compare to moonstone? Is glassy clear jadeite glowier?

I was waiting for @Crimson to answer this, but I'll jump in. They are different, in both the physics and the appearance. Full disclosure: I have moonstone but not jadeite.


(Left - jadeite earring; Middle, Right - moonstone.)

The glow of the jadeite earring is caused by scattering (random deflection of light as it passes through the stone). But it has to be the right sort and amount of scattering. The glowing patch and crescent at the lower left are basically reflections from the back of the cab, with the edges softened by scattering. With too little scattering you would see hard reflections. With too much, the stone would lose contrast and you would see a boring uniform grey. Goldilocks is what you want.

The glow of moonstone is adularescence. It's the result of optical interference caused by thin layers (thickness similar to the wavelengths of light) with alternating refractive indices. It's usually bluesish and shimmery, in the front of the stone, sometimes appearing to float above the stone. The glowing patch moves with the tilt of the stone, the viewing angle, and the angle of the light.

Which is glowier? Well... they are different. The glow of moonstone is fascinating when you see it. But the lighting and the stone have to be at the right angle. IMO, the glow of good jadeite is more reliable.

 

[Crimson]

I was waiting for @Crimson to answer this, but I'll jump in. They are different, in both the physics and the appearance. Full disclosure: I have moonstone but not jadeite.


(Left - jadeite earring; Middle, Right - moonstone.)

The glow of the jadeite earring is caused by scattering (random deflection of light as it passes through the stone). But it has to be the right sort and amount of scattering. The glowing patch and crescent at the lower left are basically reflections from the back of the cab, with the edges softened by scattering. With too little scattering you would see hard reflections. With too much, the stone would lose contrast and you would see a boring uniform grey. Goldilocks is what you want.

The glow of moonstone is adularescence. It's the result of optical interference caused by thin layers (thickness similar to the wavelengths of light) with alternating refractive indices. It's usually bluesish and shimmery, in the front of the stone, sometimes appearing to float above the stone. The glowing patch moves with the tilt of the stone, the viewing angle, and the angle of the light.

Which is glowier? Well... they are different. The glow of moonstone is fascinating when you see it. But the lighting and the stone have to be at the right angle. IMO, the glow of good jadeite is more reliable.

Thank you @Starstruck88. I worked till late, then spent so long on my earlier post that when I finished, it was already 1.30 a.m. so thank you for replying to @Bookwyrm. I agree with what you said. The blue flash in moonstone seems for me to be on the surface., whereas the “opening and closing of the eyes“ in glassy Jadeite seems to be from deep within the stone.

 

[Crimson]

Thank you for that wonderful post, @Crimson! So much good information.

It's obvious when you think about it (but I hadn't) that if you wear a necklace over a coloured dress, less transparent beads will hold their colour better. Also, that they will show their colour more consistently in varying lighting. It's also obvious that in a single cab you can get absolute top quality, but for a necklace, uniformity is more important and harder to achieve.

Thank you ! I shall post some more photos later. For now, here more info on the jadeite and other valuables of the Soong family, sold at auction in Hong Kong in early 2024.

https://assets.thevalue.com/6de580fbac2baafae021a429dfabc6a16ab9079a/thumb/682ec90fa2b00de6212c1453cf9b313402667287.jpg?1717756686

That ring! It looks so modern, almost like an emerald because of the cut.

 

[Starstruck8]

Thank you ! I shall post some more photos later. For now, here more info on the jadeite and other valuables of the Soong family, sold at auction in Hong Kong in early 2024.

https://assets.thevalue.com/6de580fbac2baafae021a429dfabc6a16ab9079a/thumb/682ec90fa2b00de6212c1453cf9b313402667287.jpg?1717756686

That ring! It looks so modern, almost like an emerald because of the cut.

Thank you again, @Crimson! That ring is truly amazing. As you say, it looks so modern. I'd wear it... in my dreams!

The information in the link is fascinating. (I have to admit the history of Republican China has always been rather a blur to me, overshadowed by WWII and the communist takeover.):
https://en.thevalue.com/articles/ch...lligraphy-kung-soong-kmt-chinese-history-2024

The items are a fascinating mix of the dead-set traditional (Qianlong emperor's calligraphy) and the works of C20 Chinese artists (traditionally based, but with modern influences). Of course, given H. H. Kong's position, this is fully to be expected. I'm thinking that the jadeite ring may be something similar, a kind of Chinese Deco?

 

[Crimson]

Thank you again, @Crimson! That ring is truly amazing. As you say, it looks so modern. I'd wear it... in my dreams!

The information in the link is fascinating. (I have to admit the history of Republican China has always been rather a blur to me, overshadowed by WWII and the communist takeover.):
https://en.thevalue.com/articles/ch...lligraphy-kung-soong-kmt-chinese-history-2024

The items are a fascinating mix of the dead-set traditional (Qianlong emperor's calligraphy) and the works of C20 Chinese artists (traditionally based, but with modern influences). Of course, given H. H. Kong's position, this is fully to be expected. I'm thinking that the jadeite ring may be something similar, a kind of Chinese Deco?

@Starstruck88 yes, I would wear that ring too! I would also characterise it as Chinese Deco. I could well imagine the owner wearing it to the Chinese Deco style Shanghai Peace Hotel. The apex looks like glowing Jadeite.

 

[Crimson]

Dear friends, I need your help. My microscope arrived and I have been having fun with it! Thank you, @MMtwo.
With the microscope I was able to look more carefully at a jadeite necklace I bought rather impulsively on Saturday. There are several pieces of jadeite on the necklace. They are all intense green. In the shop, I noticed a little whitish cloud on one of the pieces. I thought perhaps it was just a “cotton” inclusion in the Jadeite. Because I was shopping with friends and chatting I forgot to examine it with a loupe.
When I got home, I opened my newly arrived microscope, and the first object I examined was the piece of Jade with the little white cloud. This is how it looks under the bright light. What disturbed me was that the whitish patch was near the claw of the setting. I noticed that there was another such cloud near a lower claw.
It doesn’t look like cotton to me. What do you think it might be? I read that Jade can be damaged and whitened by‘ a jeweller’s setting torch. So I’m wondering if this is heat damage. I didn’t spot such patches on the other pieces.
Apologies my photos are not very clear - somehow the SD card didn’t fit nicely so I just took pics off the microscope screen.
I would be very grateful for your thoughts!
Thank you.

 

[Bookwyrm]

I was waiting for @Crimson to answer this, but I'll jump in. They are different, in both the physics and the appearance. Full disclosure: I have moonstone but not jadeite.


(Left - jadeite earring; Middle, Right - moonstone.)

The glow of the jadeite earring is caused by scattering (random deflection of light as it passes through the stone). But it has to be the right sort and amount of scattering. The glowing patch and crescent at the lower left are basically reflections from the back of the cab, with the edges softened by scattering. With too little scattering you would see hard reflections. With too much, the stone would lose contrast and you would see a boring uniform grey. Goldilocks is what you want.

The glow of moonstone is adularescence. It's the result of optical interference caused by thin layers (thickness similar to the wavelengths of light) with alternating refractive indices. It's usually bluesish and shimmery, in the front of the stone, sometimes appearing to float above the stone. The glowing patch moves with the tilt of the stone, the viewing angle, and the angle of the light.

Which is glowier? Well... they are different. The glow of moonstone is fascinating when you see it. But the lighting and the stone have to be at the right angle. IMO, the glow of good jadeite is more reliable.

Wow, thank you for your explanation! You're so knowledgeable about all this! I would love to see some good moonstone and glassy jadeite and be able to appreciate the glow in person some time.

This is a bit random, but I love the star sapphire in your profile picture! My birthstone is sapphire, so I definitely have a soft spot for blue faceted sapphires and also star sapphires. Star sapphires are so so hard to find, at least in Sydney. I saw one ring with a light grey star sapphire that had multiple stars, and my friend was quite interested in purchasing it, but the next time we visited that tiny antique jewellery shop, it was already sold! I still remember the way the stars moved when the ring was tilted - absolutely magical!

 

[Starstruck8]

Wow, thank you for your explanation!

Thank you, @Bookwyrm.

This is a bit random, but I love the star sapphire in your profile picture! My birthstone is sapphire, so I definitely have a soft spot for blue faceted sapphires and also star sapphires. Star sapphires are so so hard to find, at least in Sydney.

I don't want to derail @Crimson's thread too much, but... Yes, star stones are fascinating. They are hard to find, but it's not impossible. I'm in Brisbane, which is hardly the centre of the jewellery world, but I have accumulated a fair collection. See this post:

This, shown before, is not quite complete:
It's next to impossible to make the stars align in a group photo...
Here are the others:

I bought all but one through a local jeweller. In effect, I have a standing order - they know my interest, so they keep a lookout whenever they or their dealers get new stones in or go to trade shows.

This is the expensive way. (Don't throw me off PS!) If you want to do it this way, you will have to find the right jeweller. You will have to ask directly - jewellers don't routinely stock star stones. You will have to demonstrate that you are serious (i.e. that you will actually buy a suitable stone if they find it). Your expectations will have to fit your budget - star stones come in a huge range of prices and qualities. (You will notice that none of my stones are top quality, though some are pretty good.) But it can be done. Good luck!

 

[Crimson]

I think I’ve found the answer to my question about the white patch, after trawling through sources in Chinese.
Apparently, there are different kinds of cotton. They have rather fanciful and yet descriptive names, such as white pin, white dot, ringworm, flower, thread and brain.
What showed up under my microscope was not heat damage, but rather, a cotton flower. Thank goodness it is wasn’t a cotton brain or ringworm.
Attaching a pic below for fun. The types of cotton are, from left, Cotton dots, cotton threads, cotton, flowers, and cotton brain.

I’m still in two minds whether to keep the jadeite necklace. It is made up of 8 pieces of intense green, highly translucent jadeite in different shapes - saddle, marquise, gourd, oval, round. It looks just a bit too similar to another necklace that I have. So perhaps I’ll return it and look for something different.